Oil Pressure Sending Unit/Switch Replacement

Joined
1 October 2001
Messages
114
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
My oil pressure gauge is giving problems. Sometimes reads high sometimes reads zero at same temp and rpm. Warning light does not come on. I have checked the gauge and it appears to be operating just fine. I have located the oil pressure sending unit below the VTEC solenoid on the drivers side. It looks to be just a screw out/screw in application although it looks like the plastic cooling tank has to be removed. Is this all there is to it? Also, other than calling the dealer in Birmingham, AL where is the best place to buy one. Appreciate any help from someone who has replaced on before.
 
Since a similar topic is going on on the same forum, I will respond to this one to keep the similar topics alive.

Just replaced mine about a week ago. Will find out if this solves the problem of seeing the needle drop to zero and below at 7500+ RPM on the track ......... !!

So far, the new sender in around 60 mile of driving is showing 1 dash lower range from high to low than the original one. I use 10-30W Mobile 1.

Readings are:

Idle: 1.5 it used to be more like 2.5 but not lower
At 3000 RPM it is 4.75 to 5 same as before
At 5000+ seems to be about 6 to 6.25 perhaps even 6.5 - used to be closer to solid 7 and occasionally it may have been closer to 7.5 right before VTEC at the track.

The needle is now moving much more responsively or quickly with every throttle response. Definitely the senders appear to vary in their calibration.

Niello Acura carries them for $205.57 and gives 30% off to NSXCA members. Cost with discount is: $143.90

HTH
 
Originally posted by Hrant:
Just replaced mine about a week ago. Will find out if this solves the problem of seeing the needle drop to zero and below at 7500+ RPM on the track ......... !!
HTH


Just curious... how would replacing the pressure sensor fix this problem?

-- Chris
 
Chris,

What are you defining the problem?

Based on certain knowledgeable "technical" individuals who shall remian anonymous ......... I was told to try changing the sender as perhaps the source of a hyperactive oil pressure gauge needle that is dropping to zero at high RPM. We know for fact that there is enough oil in the engine.

Now whether the oil is being picked up properly or reaching its destination, I have no clue and I am not the techie type ....... all I know is I have enough oil based on dip stick measurements before and after the track (in fact last time I added half a quart above max dip stick range again per recommendation), so why is the needle still dropping to zero and below .....!

If the sender fails to resolve it, then perhaps the gauge is faulty.

Realize that Andrie added a baffle in the oil pan, plus an Accusump and the needle still went to zero .......

98-T
 
Hi Hrant --

I'm curious, are you seeing this under corner load, or on the straights as well? Any difference in results between the two?

-- Chris

Originally posted by Hrant:
Chris,

What are you defining the problem?

Based on certain knowledgeable "technical" individuals who shall remian anonymous ......... I was told to try changing the sender as perhaps the source of a hyperactive oil pressure gauge needle that is dropping to zero at high RPM. We know for fact that there is enough oil in the engine.

Now whether the oil is being picked up properly or reaching its destination, I have no clue and I am not the techie type ....... all I know is I have enough oil based on dip stick measurements before and after the track (in fact last time I added half a quart above max dip stick range again per recommendation), so why is the needle still dropping to zero and below .....!

If the sender fails to resolve it, then perhaps the gauge is faulty.

Realize that Andrie added a baffle in the oil pan, plus an Accusump and the needle still went to zero .......

98-T
 
Originally posted by ScienceofSpeed:
Hi Hrant --

I'm curious, are you seeing this under corner load, or on the straights as well? Any difference in results between the two?

-- Chris



Initially (about 2 years ago) I too thought corner load only arguing "g" load blah blah blah since I noticed it tracking out of turn 15 at THill ..... it made a big impression on my non-tracking friends talking about g loads .... ha ha .........
wink.gif


But seriously, it is anywhere I reach high revs on the track (starting around 7500 and over). At THill mostly on 3rd gear in my 6 speed, at turns 8-9, 9-10, 12b-14, 15 tracking out ..... and the same is true at Laguna Seca as well, the front straight, 3-4 occasionally based on exit speed from 3, 4-5 for sure, 5-6, 6-7 occasionally depending on which lap I am with the brakes and how far I brake before the crest ..........

Perhaps the sustained high RPM at the track has something to do with all this because during normal and spirited driving off the track (but limited sustained high RPM) this does not appear to be a problem or I have not focused on it as much to notice it yet .....

But the fact that with my new sender my range of readings have dropped an entire dash on the oil pressure gauge is indicative of a wide variance in the sender calibration since everything else remained the same.

[This message has been edited by Hrant (edited 30 October 2002).]
 
Hrant -- Were you able to replicate this on the street? Any differences on hot days?

-- Chris

Originally posted by Hrant:

Initially (about 2 years ago) I too thought corner load only arguing "g" load blah blah blah since I noticed it tracking out of turn 15 at THill ..... it made a big impression on my non-tracking friends talking about g loads .... ha ha .........
wink.gif


But seriously, it is anywhere I reach high revs on the track (starting around 7500 and over). At THill mostly on 3rd gear in my 6 speed, at turns 8-9, 9-10, 12b-14, 15 tracking out ..... and the same is true at Laguna Seca as well, the front straight, 3-4 occasionally based on exit speed from 3, 4-5 for sure, 5-6, 6-7 occasionally depending on which lap I am with the brakes and how far I brake before the crest ..........

Perhaps the sustained high RPM at the track has something to do with all this because during normal and spirited driving off the track (but limited sustained high RPM) this does not appear to be a problem or I have not focused on it as much to notice it yet .....

But the fact that with my new sender my range of readings have dropped an entire dash on the oil pressure gauge is indicative of a wide variance in the sender calibration since everything else remained the same.

[This message has been edited by Hrant (edited 30 October 2002).]
 
Originally posted by ScienceofSpeed:
Hrant -- Were you able to replicate this on the street? Any differences on hot days?

-- Chris



What do you mean
confused.gif
..... I obey all California laws ......
wink.gif


Will get back to you on those as the temp today will be 70 on the high side ..... so more rwhp to find out ....
smile.gif


And Dan, great reminder re the TSB 91-008 I think that is indeed a good reference to all this discussion which may not be limited to 91 vin numbers but appears to be much more generic.
 
Since this topic seems to be on 3 different forms, I am cross referencing the post from:
http://www.nsxprime.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/006196.html


Let's rev this topic again, shall we .....

Well, 2 days of track testing with a new sender appears to have solved the problem in my case

The gauge did not drop below 2.75 or 3 ..... Only time will tell if this is a permanent fix or the sender will go bad again with heavy use of the full range ....

I have another track event this Sunday and will test it there again. FYI, the ambient tempreature varied from 50F to 65F ......
 
I have the same problem on my '92. Happens randomly, sometimes in spurts. The gauge reads about 2 below normal when it whacks out. No big deal.

The gauge and/or sending units are known to go wrong, as per the above service bulletin, so I'm not too concerned. I know I have oil in the motor and oil pumps so rarely go bad that I don't think spending $200 on a sending unit and who knows how much on a gauge is the best use of my play money.

I think the new sending units are calibrated to the new gauges thats why they bulletin says to replace both.

And it doesn't appear to be that hard of a job to replace the sending unit. Make sure to clean off the seal surface before you install the new unit.
 
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