enesexdreamer said:no im not joking.
You obviously have access to an extremely high quality stash of hallucinagenics. I salute you!
enesexdreamer said:
I mean really now!
oil change completed: but w/5-30 ???
- Thread starter JDMnsxR
- Start date
You obviously have access to an extremely high quality stash of hallucinagenics. I salute you!
I mean really now!
I noticed the same thing, 5w30 is smoother than 10w30. No joke. You should try it some times. use the ELF synthetic. Perhaps it's the synthetic part, but I'm telling you, it made a big difference.
Listen to what you're saying! Trust me, it's your buttcheek dyno that's feeling the difference. If what you're saying had any value in this plane of existance, then 10W30 oil would actually be somehow causing extreme amounts of resistance to the engine.
What is it with you Southern Californians? Is it something in the air? The water? An accident of birth? I for the life of me can't figure it out.
What is it with you Southern Californians? Is it something in the air? The water? An accident of birth? I for the life of me can't figure it out.
Try it, and give us a 10 page report. With work cited MLA format. Double Space OK!Hugh said:Listen to what you're saying! Trust me, it's your buttcheek dyno that's feeling the difference. If what you're saying had any value in this plane of existance, then 10W30 oil would actually be somehow causing extreme amounts of resistance to the engine.
What is it with you Southern Californians? Is it something in the air? The water? An accident of birth? I for the life of me can't figure it out.
Maybe if I run 0W-20 like in the Honda Insight my NSX will be as smooth as my Accord. 
Vancehu said:
I live in South Florida where the temperature is currently in a narrow range from 80 at night to 90 during the day. If I lived in the Artic Circle I'd probably notice that the 5W oil offered easier startups than the 10W but once they reached normal engine operating temperatures, even with Santa and Rudolph standing next to me, I guarantee you that the difference would be indistinguishable.
Hugh said:
Sorry bro, the temp in Southern Cal do drop to 40's during winter and reach over 100 during summer. If there is no difference, you should tell the manufactures to stop making the oil so people such as you don't get confused.:biggrin: Southern Californians are waiting for your 10 page MLA double space report. Work Cited is required to make it a legit paper.:biggrin:
Hugh said:0W-40 is frequently used to lubricate the pavement in front of the tires of BMWs with seized engines and/or trannys to help get them on the flatbeds more easily.
Uhhhh...huh...well thanks for the uninformative cheapshot?
In any case, I'd opt for 5w-30 over 10w-30.
This is like trying to explain quantum mechanics to a kindergarten class!
The key term, the one to get into your head, the one that matters is "at normal engine operating temperature". Whether you're in Southern California, Southen Florida or Southern Fallujah, this will be a constant. There is no way on Earth that there will be a noticeable difference in engine performance between a 5W30 and 10W30 oil at "normal engine operating temperature".
Buttcheek dynos, especially Southern Californian ones, will notice a measurable difference in performance simply by applying a Honda badge to their cars. They don't count!
The key term, the one to get into your head, the one that matters is "at normal engine operating temperature". Whether you're in Southern California, Southen Florida or Southern Fallujah, this will be a constant. There is no way on Earth that there will be a noticeable difference in engine performance between a 5W30 and 10W30 oil at "normal engine operating temperature".
Buttcheek dynos, especially Southern Californian ones, will notice a measurable difference in performance simply by applying a Honda badge to their cars. They don't count!
6i9 said:Uhhhh...huh...well thanks for the uninformative cheapshot?
Cheapshot? Hell, you don't know me then.
My disdain for German cars is well known around here. I treat them all with equal amounts of extreme prejudice. :tongue:
The only problem I can think of is if you're driving your car hard when its cold, and if thats the case, you have more problems..
The only other thing is the additives in oil to give them the spread wear out. So 5w30 may degrade to a 5w20 quicker then 10w30 would degrade. From the testing I've done, its not much difference though. Just change it at 3,000.
The only other thing is the additives in oil to give them the spread wear out. So 5w30 may degrade to a 5w20 quicker then 10w30 would degrade. From the testing I've done, its not much difference though. Just change it at 3,000.
One of the functions of a 5-30 is cooling and flow. The "splash" effect of a lighter oil helps cool the engine and dissipate heat quickly. Smaller journals and complex castings need lighter oil. Heavier oils don't flow as readily, hence don’t “splash” as effectively. Most manufacturers are using the lighter oil, newer oil with high film strength and protection. Since technology has advanced, it's hard to overcome old habits,, like 20-40 0r 20-50. If you have higher mileage, then I'd be concerned, however you should be just fine with a quality 5-30 like Mobile 1 etc.
Dirt is the real enemy,, not weight.
acd
Dirt is the real enemy,, not weight.
acd
5 feels heavy. it sucks.
10 is worst.
we use zero weight. so much better.
10 is worst.
we use zero weight. so much better.
Once again - let's pay attention here class - the 'W' rating is at -35 deg F (Again, in case you missed it - That's minus 35) - long way from 40's. At even those 'bitter cold' 40 deg S CA nights, 5W30 vs 10W30 is probably really slim difference in viscosity at that temp.Vancehu said:
The point is, there is a difference, and you admit to it.D'Ecosse said:
Vancehu said:
Your right that there is a difference, although it is VERY minor and pretty much indiscernible at the temps being discussed. D'Ecosse did say:
However, that wasn't the point because you had stated earlier that there is a "big difference". Just look below. I believe that is why D'Ecosse is saying the difference is very minor, because you had stated otherwise earlier. docjohn says the same thing that there won't be any noticeable difference unless you are in much colder climates.
Vancehu said:
Hugh's whole point to enesexdreamer is that there is no way changing from 10w30 to 5w30 will give you noticeably increased/more responsive throttle response. C'mon, increased throttle response, that you can distinctly feel the difference? That's like saying you can feel the handling difference driving around town after putting on an NSX-R hood.
Unless you are in VERY cold climates, there is no way anyone can actually tell the difference between 5w30 and 10w30 from driving the car.
Understudy said:
So why deviate from OEM recommended oil weights, when there is no performance benefit of using the lighter-weight oil, and it offers less protection when it isn't fully warmed up?
ok, ok, ok, guru's and genuises alike:wink:, here's a loop throwing question...
How much oil does an OEM engine take (in quarts)?:biggrin: Enjoy :biggrin:
How much oil does an OEM engine take (in quarts)?:biggrin: Enjoy :biggrin:
scorp965 said:
- OEM recomendation is based on conventional oil of the day. Full-synthetic oil (and even newer conventional oils) can have equivilant or better film strength at lower weights.
- Full synthetics can achieve higher viscosity spread and do it naturally...where the higher second number doesn't trend down as the oil ages with use. In 1990 5w-30 probably became _w-20 faster than 10w-30 did. This may have largely effected the OEM recommendation (and they had to allow for 5w in lower temps for startup issues despite it's faster sheer potential). The sheer of 5w30 may no longer be nearly as high today with many quality conventional oils and certainly isn't the case with full synthetics with a natural spread.
scorp965 said:
Ah, a loaded question. :smile: :wink:
There could be lots of reasons - for example, the oil change place used the wrong oil.
Why do I use 5W-30 instead of 10W30? I have five cars. All of them can use 5W30.
I had a chance to buy 150 quarts of 5W30 Mobile 1 at $2.25 per quart, so I jumped on it. Since 5W30 won't hurt the NSX and it's used in my other cars, it made sense to me to buy the lot when I had the chance.
Once my 5W30 runs out (which is getting close since I've used it and sold some of it) and I have to pay full retail for the oil, then I'll probably just go back to 10W30 Mobile 1 for NSX.
jond said:
Check your dipstick after the oil change, adding too much oil is probably worse than adding too little since you run the risk of churning the oil with the crankshaft. After a drain and filter change I add exactly 5 quarts of oil and 2 oz. of Auto-Rx and the level on the dipstick is just below the full mark. Exactly where I want it to be.
Hugh said:
and what is this stuff you call Auto-Rx
Ski_Banker
Suspended
I use a 10% synthetic blend of Aunt Jemima's maple syrup. Seems to work well cold and at normal operating temperatures.
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