Good list, let me add to that.
NA2 brake brackets $200-250 (allow for 97-05 rotors)
Stainless brake lines apx $100-125
Porsche 993 Brake ducts, (i'd need to look price up on those)
Oem brake rotor replacement
- Thread starter Yellow_Fever
- Start date
Good list, let me add to that.
NA2 brake brackets $200-250 (allow for 97-05 rotors)
Stainless brake lines apx $100-125
Porsche 993 Brake ducts, (i'd need to look price up on those)
awesome! I know what I want now. Thank you!
Looks to me like you should reevaluate your braking style. :biggrin:
As stated in another thread it's very difficult to warp rotors unless you're doing something extreme or terribily wrong (like locking up brakes, parking your car after a hard driving session with your parking brake). 99% of the time the symptoms can be attributed to uneven pad deposits on the rotor.
There's also the Racing Brake (RB) +2 option that has even larger rotors (324mm Front / 330mm rear) than the 97-05 (298mm f/ 303mm rear) with two piece rotors. It uses new brackets and new rotors but the OEM caliper and OEM sized pad.
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I have bought a few set of rotors for my DD NSX and hawk pads front and rear, works great
$166.24 just rotors
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280914582767?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Bryan
$166.24 just rotors
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280914582767?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Bryan
Well doing street racing from a 2k elevation hill all the way down and braking as well as racing a Mustang at 140MPH and needing to hit the brakes when a Prius cut me off in the fast lane.
*BAT Flame Suit ON*
I'm not even gonna flame you. But yeah, Uneven pad deposits are from riding the brakes and/or melting the pad surface layer such that it smears around the rotor unevenly (e.g. pad has been taken beyond it's thermal tolerance....see previous comment about melting EBCs). If I were going to do a hard-core downhill run, I'd probably opt for something like a Hawk DTC 60 or Carbo XP12......and better seatbelts so I didn't eat the steering wheel every time I touched the middle pedal.
Drilled rotors do NOT crack more easily, based on my experience. I've gone through numerous sets of drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors. All lasted the exact same number of racetrack miles before cracking. (The only variation was with two-piece rotors, which last a lot longer, regardless of the type of face on the rotor.) The reason people think drilled rotors don't last as long is that the cracks form in a radial direction through the holes, so people erroneously conclude that the holes "caused" the cracks. But the cracks form in a radial direction on slotted and solid-faced rotors, too, and at about the same point in their track life.
As Hapa states above, you almost certainly did NOT warp your rotors, but rather, created uneven pad deposits, for the reasons R13 mentions. You can avoid this by bedding your rotors and pads properly. This is described in vivid detail in this Stoptech white paper:
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
Proper bedding, as described there, will probably also eliminate the fade you experienced in the brake pad. It is almost certainly a matter of "green pad syndrome", in which pads fade the first time they get really, really hot. Once they have been through a proper bedding procedure and have gotten really, really hot, they won't do so again for the remaining life of the brake pad. This is true of just about all street and street-track pads, not just the OEM pads. Which is why those bogus claims that they "suck" are just plain wrong.
Absolutely agree with Ken. My race bikes always used OEM pads and rotors and never replaced rotors on any bikes and used a set of pads a year while many guys changed their pads every other week. Wait - the guys may have changed their pads when they realized they got beat by a chick and had to clean up :>)))..........OEM 'stuff' is often the best to use at normal (or even a bit aggresive) use since that is what is chosen after many other product tests.
The rotors warped (in all cases) after thousands, if not tens of thousands of miles on the rotors. So everything was already properly bedded in.
My 4 different shops/mechanics confirmed.
If you get them hot enough, melt the transfer layer, and then an uneven transfer layer re-deposits due to the now-nuked pad compound operating outside of it's thermal tolerances.......you end up with the same inconsistent deposits on the rotor (aka "warped").
Also, "Suck" is relative in my humble opinion.
For spirited driving, the odd autocross, or a couple of slow laps something like OEM, Chain Store, or Hawk HPS/EBC Yellow/etc. might not "suck". However, for something like a 20+ minute track session with a fast driver, they would suck. Moving up. An HP+, CT Panther, etc. while able to handle almost anything a stock NSX can throw at them, might "suck" for a boosted car and a fast driver. It's all in matching a pad with a use. While there are some that cover a pretty wide range, there is no universal solution.
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Sounds like you didn't bother reading the article in the link. Uneven deposits, due to lack of proper bedding, cause shudder and vibrations. If not addressed properly - through re-bedding and/or turning the rotors - such uneven deposits can eventually lead to actual warping via the creation of "hot spots" where the deposits vary in thickness. And thousands of miles of use do not necessarily bed the rotors properly.
The root cause is still lack of proper bedding of the rotors before exposing them to an intense buildup of heat, either on the racetrack or on mountain roads. NOT anything wrong with the rotors themselves.
You need to read the article, because everything you've posted continues to show that you don't understand the process of proper bedding.
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The rotors were properly bedded in since it was smooth for a while.
Under normal driving it wasn't a problem.
But when I started to engage in downhill racing and needed more braking power as well as freeway braking in triple digit range that is when the warpage started to happen to all cars/trucks.
Under normal driving it wasn't a problem.
But when I started to engage in downhill racing and needed more braking power as well as freeway braking in triple digit range that is when the warpage started to happen to all cars/trucks.
Clearly, you still don't understand what bedding is.
In addition to the article mentioned above:
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
this other one, which is actually a collection of four articles, is also very good:
Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
Read all of them all the way through if you want to understand what bedding is all about. Otherwise you'll just continue to display your lack of understanding.
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Richard, on your advice I am trying out some cheap rotors for the track event I'm going to this weekend. I got the fronts from Rock Auto and the rears from Amazon. Fronts are Bendix PRT5979; rears are Raybestos 96731. The fronts look to be the usual price of $40/ea but the rears I got for $30/ea and they now show up at $150+. So I guess that was a good deal.
They look nearly identical to the Powerslot front and OEM rear rotors they replaced, albeit without the slots or black-coated center of the Powerslots. We will see how they turn out but so far they seem perfect for the track. I was able to properly bed in the HP+ pads so don't expect I will have issues with uneven deposits this time. (Thankfully the HP+ pads eventually wore off those uneven deposits last time and then I switched to HPS and properly bedded them in.)
-jason
Cool. Glad you were able to get them bedded well this time.
I'll be up at VIR ("up" from here) at the beginning of May. I'm still running bargain blanks and HP+, although I may step up to a more agressive pad as I've moved to a more aggressive tire (Toyo R888s vs. the Dunlop Z1 / Nitto NT05 I was running). I'll see how this does at VIR and adjust accordingly from there. The HP+ still stop the car effectively, but I think I could get better modulation out of something with more bite.
I'll be up at VIR ("up" from here) at the beginning of May. I'm still running bargain blanks and HP+, although I may step up to a more agressive pad as I've moved to a more aggressive tire (Toyo R888s vs. the Dunlop Z1 / Nitto NT05 I was running). I'll see how this does at VIR and adjust accordingly from there. The HP+ still stop the car effectively, but I think I could get better modulation out of something with more bite.
