Hey guys, I'm looking forward to upgrading my oem brake rotors but don't want bbk. I see some on eBay for like $200 for oem replacement. They come with brake pads also. Is that a good deal?
Oem brake rotor replacement
- Thread starter Yellow_Fever
- Start date
I'm using the same setup in front (OEM rotors in rear) and find that it made a huge difference in stopping power. Although I didn't do a good job bedding the pads before tracking at VIR and now I'm trying to get rid of uneven deposits. I plan to switch to Hawk HPS for most driving.
They were eBay brand. I see a set of brembo for the rear for $60. Seems like stoptech is the way to go. I'll have to visit SOS. Thanks guys!
My first question is why you think you need to "upgrade" your rotors. Different rotors won't make a significant difference in your stopping ability. On the track, the main benefit to better rotors is that they last longer before cracking. If your current rotors aren't cracked and they aren't worn down to the minimum spec for thickness, there's no need to replace them.
Also, beware any set that comes with brake pads unless it specifies what brand and type of pads they are. Avoid no-brand or generic "auto parts store" type brake pads.
Also, beware any set that comes with brake pads unless it specifies what brand and type of pads they are. Avoid no-brand or generic "auto parts store" type brake pads.
Stoptech/Powerslot are the sport line of Centric rotors. Centric owns Stoptech.
I second nsxtasy's about avoiding no-name brand brake pads. Centric's C-Tek rotors are find for daily and canyon runs, but use a proven brake pad like those sold by SOS.
I second nsxtasy's about avoiding no-name brand brake pads. Centric's C-Tek rotors are find for daily and canyon runs, but use a proven brake pad like those sold by SOS.
Yes my oem ones are getting worned out. I figured I start asking/looking now so by the time I need to replace it I know exactly what to get. Thanks for the advice on the eBay brand.
FWIW, I've used the Powerslot rotors mentioned above, as well as the OEM rotors, and both worked fine. For track use, I've also used the two-piece Stoptech rotors, which were more resistant to cracking but were also very expensive.
For brake pads, the Hawk HP+ has been my pad of choice for combined street/track use, but for street-only use, their dusting is a negative. For street-only use, the stock Honda/Acura OEM pads are a good choice.
For brake pads, the Hawk HP+ has been my pad of choice for combined street/track use, but for street-only use, their dusting is a negative. For street-only use, the stock Honda/Acura OEM pads are a good choice.
Unless you want them for the looks there really isn't much "upgrade" about drilled and/or slotted rotors or any name-brand blanks for that matter IMO. Also, you can get generic blanks for ~$30-40 / corner if you dig around on the web long enough. Unless you're tracking the car, you probably won't notice any difference in the durability either. Even if you do, I can replace 3 sets of blanks before I'd have paid for a single DBA/ST/PS item.
'Just sayin
Buy good pads, call it a day. If you want a bargain, AXXIS Ultimates (if still available) from my experience with them on my MR2 have slightly more bite than a Hawk HPS, but dust WAY less than the HP+ (I'm not pretending they are as good a pad as the HP+ though).
'Just sayin
Buy good pads, call it a day. If you want a bargain, AXXIS Ultimates (if still available) from my experience with them on my MR2 have slightly more bite than a Hawk HPS, but dust WAY less than the HP+ (I'm not pretending they are as good a pad as the HP+ though).
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OEM pads and rotors suck. Period.
Try cryo rotors and EBC yellows - OEM size.
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OEM pads and rotors suck. Period.
Try cryo rotors and EBC yellows - OEM size.
Try cryo rotors and EBC yellows - OEM size.
- - - Updated - - -
OEM pads and rotors suck. Period.
Try cryo rotors and EBC yellows - OEM size.
I had a friend straight-up MELT some EBC Yellows on a Subaru STI, I'll pass thanks.
I have yet to find ANYTHING with a stock-powered car that offsets the HUGE jump in premium for a bigger/fancier/frozen/shaken-but-not-stirred rotor vs. a cheap-o blank that I can replace in 5 minutes for $30.
Usually you can search for just the year/make/model on most sites. I'm a track rat so if I find some on sale, I just buy a stack of them.
Rock Auto is usually a good place to start. I've also gotten some on sale from NAPA, and occasionally NOPI will even have some super-cheap (although their shipping is pricey).
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shawn110975
Suspended
i only use OEM for stock setup, ebay cheapo's rust after one wash, and then your fighting to keep your rims from turning orange till you say to yourself all this trouble I should ahve paid the extra to get OEM or another real brand. like stoptech
but stoptech is in my mind like getting what everyone else has LOL
but stoptech is in my mind like getting what everyone else has LOL
I have over 4000 actual track miles on both that say you are absolutely WRONG about that.
He he he, Rotors only last me about 3-5 events, they don't even have time to rust before they crack (applicable to OE and Cheap-O)
Sooo many different opinions lol u guys are confusing the shit out of me. I do like the fancy looks vs the oem looks. My car is just a weekend car, I attend car shows here n there that's bout it. I really don't want to spend a fortune on it. Stoptech might be the one.
One thing I regret is not upgrading to a BBK, at least for the front anyways. I bought new stainless lines, new Powerslot rotors, Hawk HPS pads and a new Master Brake Cyliner and I was passed $800 for sure. The MC was about $300, so subtract that from the price, but for the functionability and looks I wish I went BBK. My calipers look so wimpy behind my wheels.
You can always add 97-05 brake brackets and use the larger OEM discs.
What year is OP's car? If its a legit yellow, then its the bigger rotors already.
We're good for nothing if not a large number of different opinions here.
This is why it's important to specify what you're gonna do with the car up front, lol.Honestly, if you want the look, and don't plan on replacing them save for ever half dozen years, then go for it.
Definitely a repainted car I'd guess from his avatar a 91-93 model
That being said looks like a nice tone of yellow.
You are correct. My car is a 92 and its been repainted
i did the centric sportstop drilled rotors from sos,and have been pleased with them-
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...ce_parts/NSX/Centric/SportStop_Cross_Drilled/
i researched them,and found if you're going to track them a lot,drilled ones could crack more easily,but since i'm not,i got them bc i like the way drilled rotors look.drilled are oem on my m3,so it was good enough for them.
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...ce_parts/NSX/Centric/SportStop_Cross_Drilled/
i researched them,and found if you're going to track them a lot,drilled ones could crack more easily,but since i'm not,i got them bc i like the way drilled rotors look.drilled are oem on my m3,so it was good enough for them.
In terms of upgrades, there are cosmetic upgrades and performance upgrades. Since you are not interested in a BBK, I'll list what you can do with your OEM setup in order of cost:
HPS pads (performance) - $150
91-96 slotted rotors (cosmetic) - $310
91-96 drilled rotors (cosmetic) - $370
97-05 OEM rotors and RB brackets (performance) - $600 rotors + $800 brackets
97-05 slotted rotors and RB brackets (cosmetic + performance) - $1000 rotors + $800 brackets
HPS pads (performance) - $150
91-96 slotted rotors (cosmetic) - $310
91-96 drilled rotors (cosmetic) - $370
97-05 OEM rotors and RB brackets (performance) - $600 rotors + $800 brackets
97-05 slotted rotors and RB brackets (cosmetic + performance) - $1000 rotors + $800 brackets
I've faded OEM pads and warped OEM rotors on the RX7, NSX, GTO and S10.
Everything from here on after are EBC and cryo rotors. I'm much happier.
Everything from here on after are EBC and cryo rotors. I'm much happier.
