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NSX Carbon Parts: Gauging interest

Which parts would you actually BUY?


  • Total voters
    42
I will be installing my Dali POS, in the next couple of weeks, so maybe we can work something out with me sending you the factory one... :wink:
 
I had look into this option a few times in the past with different installer, they all come to the same conclusion (as stated in your previous post), not all HD are the same, does'nt matter if it is single or double din, when Alpines might fit perfectly, but Pioneers might not.

Another problem I had came to realize with double din is you can not see the screen with the top off during the day time :eek: , the motorized screen only tilts the screen pointing upwards more instead of bringing it more verticle to avoid the sun light shine on it directly.

Plus a CF center console with OEM ash tray door looks funny, can you make a new door piece to go with the center console?

I'm not here to make things more difficult for you, just to give you a heads up on some of the issue you might run into from this part.

By the way, I'm still looking for a solution as to going aftermarket on the stereo and Navi system in the NSX. One that would just take my arm, but will leave my legs along. :biggrin:
 
Another problem I had came to realize with double din is you can not see the screen with the top off during the day time :eek: , the motorized screen only tilts the screen pointing upwards more instead of bringing it more verticle to avoid the sun light shine on it directly.

By the way, I'm still looking for a solution as to going aftermarket on the stereo and Navi system in the NSX. One that would just take my arm, but will leave my legs along. :biggrin:

The new Kenwood DDX8019 comes out at the end of this month. It's got reverse tilt, which will help with the glare... and the Kenwood Nav plugs right in. :biggrin:

Plus a CF center console with OEM ash tray door looks funny, can you make a new door piece to go with the center console?

The unit that Tomoske made had the ashtray door in CF (but we all know how that went :rolleyes: ). So it is possible. Another possibility (considering the weaves match) would be to get the overlay kit from SOS and use that for the ashtray door and door inserts... :smile:
 
Looks like the ball is in your court for the CF Center Console... :confused:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83458&page=4

That went bad rather quickly. I was hoping it would work out so I could concentrate on other parts that I could use also. But there's fun in seeing if I can get it done, successfully.

Biggest roadblock: I still need a USDM version CC. If I am unsuccessful, I will send it back at my cost. Note, I don't think the moulding process will damage the CC but I can not gurantee it'll come back looking as perfect as it did when it came off your car.
 
Mag, the poll says ~23 are interested. The previous vendor Prestige in HK sells them on ebay for $275 + shipping, $300 total, so I think that is the expectation on this forum (not to say it can't be adjusted). That said, it'd be great if you can give us an estimate on how much it would cost, and ultimately when it is ready, post some close up pictures, then these things will sell themselves!

Shifty Bob is all over this one, so maybe he can help you source a LHD version for your prototype? =)

I've never heard of Prestige HK. Is this HK as in Hong Kong? Any affiliation with TopMix? Am I right in assuming this is a JDM version only and reason why you guys are not buying prestige units?

I'm reluctant to give pricing until I actually make the mould and try. Because I just simply wouldn't know. But I have read previous posts and I know you guys want good quality in the 300-400 range. Problem is... looking at all the pics of these parts offered in the past, they don't seem to have the OEM fixture bits on them. So I worry if they've (those venders) given prices in these ranges, and set the benchmark for pricing, it will be difficult for me to match if I have to do more. Basically it goes like this... I'm a car nut, and it's fun for me, thus my motivation is not making money. It will be a reasonable price. Especially for the first rounder guys who are essentially taking the risk with me.

May be you guys can help me out. Which underside fixture brackets would you guys require?
 
I will be installing my Dali POS, in the next couple of weeks, so maybe we can work something out with me sending you the factory one... :wink:

That's good. Please take note in my earlier post though.

Also it's clear from the other post that you guys must see this part in a car...
I only know of one LHD and to be honest the owner never does anything with out expecting something in return. I don't like to feel indebted to him but I'll try my best. Have thought of sending the piece to one of you for fitting, but if it needs adjustments, this will prove complicated and costly in shipping.

I just want to be clear about potential hurdles and issues now so there's no misunderstandings later.
 
I had look into this option a few times in the past with different installer, they all come to the same conclusion (as stated in your previous post), not all HD are the same, does'nt matter if it is single or double din, when Alpines might fit perfectly, but Pioneers might not.

Another problem I had came to realize with double din is you can not see the screen with the top off during the day time :eek: , the motorized screen only tilts the screen pointing upwards more instead of bringing it more verticle to avoid the sun light shine on it directly.

Plus a CF center console with OEM ash tray door looks funny, can you make a new door piece to go with the center console?

I'm not here to make things more difficult for you, just to give you a heads up on some of the issue you might run into from this part.

By the way, I'm still looking for a solution as to going aftermarket on the stereo and Navi system in the NSX. One that would just take my arm, but will leave my legs along. :biggrin:

Thats good info. thank you. Keep the inputs coming!

So yea I think the best to do is offer a flat surface and cut the din according to your HU.

The ashtray:
I haven't tore my car to pieces yet so have yet to inspect from the inside. But I am guessing the part is too intricate as it involves some kind of hinge?
As well every time I make a mould, it costs money so this would raise the cost. If you guys don't mind treating this as a seperate item, I don't mind giving it a try. I am guessing this is something that can be used in a JDM CC as well. Otherwise I'm happy if you guys can source this elsewhere as with the suggestion to use the cover, however it wouldn't exactly match the weave. Thin shell cover wouldnt be a good solution either because it's so thin, hard to make a nice finish for the edges. MIght just look ghetto.
 
Poll results:

From the poll, I can consider the following items.
Door Pillar, F/R diffusers, CC, GT wing

Door Pillar:
I'd prefer more intention here as I know the numbers will not translate into actual buys. We'll see on this one.

F/R under diffusers:
I've seen the SOS ones. They have dimples in them, I assume to add rigidity and looks. For the rear, as well as to serve as a diffuser, it can seal the bay (in particular for ITB and open filter use). So I wont design any vents. For the front... should be noted that this may inhibit air to escape if you didn't have a vented hood which may inhibit cooling properties. I may consider making vents for the front side. Please give me your inputs here.

GT wing:
I have to receive my wing first. It's an SPL wing and VERY wide, better suited for wide body applications. Won't be cheap to replicate something rigid enough to withstand the applications it's meant for. So for this part, will see later.

Center Console:
By far the largest demand. Decided on deleting everything accept for A/C. Ashtray is important. I use a radar detector, so the power adapter is useful and mounting it on the flat or having it hang out the side would not look nice. For this reason I suggest keeping it. But as the post above suggests more research is needed for the door function. Would appreaciate inputs here.

And of course this is all pending my ability to obtain a donor and satisfy the "fitting/photo" approvals from you guys.

Other parts:
LED back light. My friend has made them for the 34 skylines. Street tested and 2 years still no issues. I'm in discussion with him now. Only issue here is deposit lights. I have one extra set so I suppose turn around would be faster but then only one of you would get them at a time.

Rear trunk spoiler lid. As with the GT wing, need to wait for this part to arrive. But this part is easy, just depends on demand.

Other interior parts:
What about the panels behind the driver seat and the sub box. These are easy to mould as well.

But one thing at a time. I'll start a poll on these "other" items later.
 
Thats good info. thank you. Keep the inputs coming!

So yea I think the best to do is offer a flat surface and cut the din according to your HU.

The ashtray:
I haven't tore my car to pieces yet so have yet to inspect from the inside. But I am guessing the part is too intricate as it involves some kind of hinge?
As well every time I make a mould, it costs money so this would raise the cost. If you guys don't mind treating this as a seperate item, I don't mind giving it a try. I am guessing this is something that can be used in a JDM CC as well. Otherwise I'm happy if you guys can source this elsewhere as with the suggestion to use the cover, however it wouldn't exactly match the weave. Thin shell cover wouldnt be a good solution either because it's so thin, hard to make a nice finish for the edges. MIght just look ghetto.

As for the center console, I had toy with the idea of a insert that is making some type of a frame around the din cut out, so the din unit can still recess in like the OEM look, but we can not bend CF. Therefore, I was thinking of making it in brush Aluminum center console if imposible, unfortunatly the ebrake area can not be bend, so must be made with injection molding, which brings the price to a point that will take both arms and legs with it.

2nd solution was like SOS make a face plate, but I was going to have the face plate from just under the vents where the center console starts at the top to just above the ash tray area. This way at least the whole section will have the same look, all the OEM cut outs will have recess bend for the A/C and so on, this piece do not need tapes or glue, just sort off clamp it on the existing console and the din cut out will have indentations so you can bend alone the line to make your din fitment some what the same as the rest with recess indentation.

What do you guys think???
 
If you want the SOS type plate, I can do this also. easy.

Or using awsomr1's idea but use a carbon plate with the AC cut out. I'm not sure what a recess bend is but with a carbon plate, 3M double sided sticks well.
 
If you want the SOS type plate, I can do this also. easy.

Or using awsomr1's idea but use a carbon plate with the AC cut out. I'm not sure what a recess bend is but with a carbon plate, 3M double sided sticks well.


Maybe my description is not correct. The recess bend I'm speaking of is the rounded curve from the CC itself to the A/C, than curves in to the casset deck, than again to the stock head unit. with these curves, you can clamp the plate on to the CC easy without tapes.

So with either single din or double din, you will have the oval curve in shape from the A/C, and the square shape curve in for the head unit.

Does that make sense to you?
 
Maybe my description is not correct. The recess bend I'm speaking of is the rounded curve from the CC itself to the A/C, than curves in to the casset deck, than again to the stock head unit. with these curves, you can clamp the plate on to the CC easy without tapes.

So with either single din or double din, you will have the oval curve in shape from the A/C, and the square shape curve in for the head unit.

Does that make sense to you?

Ah yes... The bends would have to be extremely exact. Otherwise it may look awkward. Also the plate would have to be thin in the recess areas and thick where the mounting surfaces should be. Unless we used day carbon... And that would cost more than replacing the whole unit using other alternatives.

Tomoske's CC doesn't look too bad. Make sure of the mounting points though.
 
Biggest roadblock: I still need a USDM version CC. If I am unsuccessful, I will send it back at my cost. Note, I don't think the moulding process will damage the CC but I can not gurantee it'll come back looking as perfect as it did when it came off your car.

Once I have my USDM CC removed, I have no problem sending it to you, and if it's returned in worse shape, well then that's the cost of R&D. I have faith that I will be compensated for my efforts though, and if not... well, what goes around comes around. :wink:

I've never heard of Prestige HK. Is this HK as in Hong Kong? Any affiliation with TopMix? Am I right in assuming this is a JDM version only and reason why you guys are not buying prestige units?

I'm reluctant to give pricing until I actually make the mould and try. Because I just simply wouldn't know. But I have read previous posts and I know you guys want good quality in the 300-400 range. Problem is... looking at all the pics of these parts offered in the past, they don't seem to have the OEM fixture bits on them. So I worry if they've (those venders) given prices in these ranges, and set the benchmark for pricing, it will be difficult for me to match if I have to do more. Basically it goes like this... I'm a car nut, and it's fun for me, thus my motivation is not making money. It will be a reasonable price. Especially for the first rounder guys who are essentially taking the risk with me.

May be you guys can help me out. Which underside fixture brackets would you guys require?

As far as pricing goes, I'm not so much concerned with pricing as I am about quality/fitment. Ideally, I would like USDM replica in CF, then I can just cut or make any adjustments as needed. From what I understand, The Prestige Units from Hong Kong are good quality, but the fitment is a little off. Not that big of a deal, but coupled with the fact that some members here have had some shipping issues (among other complications) with them, nobody wants to put up the money to "possibly" get a CF CC.

To show you how serious I am about wanting a QUALITY CF CC... I ordered that Dali POS a few weeks ago, big mistake. I was waiting on Tomoske to finish his, that fell through... so yesterday I ordered a CF CC from Prestige, hopefully I will get it soon.:rolleyes: Even if I get that, I will still send you the USDM CC for your mold, and if yours turns out better than the Prestige one, then I have no problem paying for another BETTER one. In the process, if Tomoske's consoles go through, and he has proven that he can be a trustworthy vendor, I may purchase one of those if it's better than what I currently have. I just consider all of this to be the cost of R&D for the best CF CC available. And if it costs me upwards of $1500 total for the R&D, then so be it, but I'm not going to settle for a cheap looking console in a $80k car. :biggrin:

Also it's clear from the other post that you guys must see this part in a car...

I don't think it's so much that we "need" to see it installed. It just needs to be "proven". If it looks great, has a great weave, great clearcoat, and all of your other products have great fitment, then the inability to see it installed wouldn't stop me. I also would assume that in the process, you would prob make a RHD version for yourself, and seeing the same product installed in the RHD version should suffice, seeing as the quality would be the same, coming from the same vendor.

So yea I think the best to do is offer a flat surface and cut the din according to your HU.

The ashtray:
I haven't tore my car to pieces yet so have yet to inspect from the inside. But I am guessing the part is too intricate as it involves some kind of hinge?
As well every time I make a mould, it costs money so this would raise the cost. If you guys don't mind treating this as a seperate item, I don't mind giving it a try. I am guessing this is something that can be used in a JDM CC as well. Otherwise I'm happy if you guys can source this elsewhere as with the suggestion to use the cover, however it wouldn't exactly match the weave. Thin shell cover wouldnt be a good solution either because it's so thin, hard to make a nice finish for the edges. MIght just look ghetto.

The flat surface for the stereo is a good idea also, but kinda sucks for the guys who want the CF CC but want to keep the stock head unit. Once the mold is made of a USDM CC, I would assume it wouldn't be too hard to modify and make a second mold with the flat surface. Why not use the USDM OEM mold if you already have it, and there is a demand for it? Then you could offer two versions... an OEM USDM, and a flat panel version. :biggrin:

As far as the ashtray goes... I don't really care either way. If you want to treat the ashtray as a separate piece, then I would buy it if you didn't offer a completely flat panel (stereo delete and ashtray delete). I also use my cigarette lighter quite frequently as a power point. If the ashtray were deleted I would prob install three flush power points in it's place. The idea of using an overlay on the ashtray makes me cringe, but you gotta do what you gotta do... cause I would not leave it silver. :eek:

Poll results:


Center Console:
By far the largest demand. Decided on deleting everything accept for A/C. Ashtray is important. I use a radar detector, so the power adapter is useful and mounting it on the flat or having it hang out the side would not look nice. For this reason I suggest keeping it. But as the post above suggests more research is needed for the door function. Would appreaciate inputs here.

See above regarding my thoughts on the ashtray delete...

Again, thanks for your time and interest in this community and for your future contributions... :biggrin:
 
Once I have my USDM CC removed, I have no problem sending it to you, and if it's returned in worse shape, well then that's the cost of R&D. I have faith that I will be compensated for my efforts though, and if not... well, what goes around comes around. :wink:

ok, don't worry.

As far as pricing goes, I'm not so much concerned with pricing as I am about quality/fitment. Ideally, I would like USDM replica in CF, then I can just cut or make any adjustments as needed. From what I understand, The Prestige Units from Hong Kong are good quality, but the fitment is a little off. Not that big of a deal, but coupled with the fact that some members here have had some shipping issues (among other complications) with them, nobody wants to put up the money to "possibly" get a CF CC.

If this company is already doing it, and the quality is acceptable, I'd say go with them. I don't want to spend time doing something someone else has done. If the place is in HK, the method they use is to make a mould and hand lay the layers in there. That's why there'd be inconsistencies between units. I was thinking to use this method also because it's cheapest. Assuming their standards are OK, I probably couldn't do much better.

THe place I will use also has an automated machine and consistency may be better but making the laquer finish is more time consuming, it's like 2 steps where as the former mentioned is 2 in 1. Cost up... As you said, you don't mind paying 1500 for R&D but I think there are many that would beg to differ.

To show you how serious I am about wanting a QUALITY CF CC... I ordered that Dali POS a few weeks ago, big mistake. I was waiting on Tomoske to finish his, that fell through... so yesterday I ordered a CF CC from Prestige, hopefully I will get it soon.:rolleyes: Even if I get that, I will still send you the USDM CC for your mold, and if yours turns out better than the Prestige one, then I have no problem paying for another BETTER one. In the process, if Tomoske's consoles go through, and he has proven that he can be a trustworthy vendor, I may purchase one of those if it's better than what I currently have. I just consider all of this to be the cost of R&D for the best CF CC available. And if it costs me upwards of $1500 total for the R&D, then so be it, but I'm not going to settle for a cheap looking console in a $80k car. :biggrin:
I like your style. Another option I can offer is to act as the middle person in this. If you guys want prestige and worry you won't get the parts. I can contact the person personally to facilitate the transaction at no cost (for my services) to you guys including shipping. My only reserve is that I have NEVER once heard of this company in HK. I am guessing it is a subsidiary of TOPMIX. http://www.topmix.com.hk/main.php?lang=e Give me the contact person if interested. Do a GB for the CC this way.

I don't think it's so much that we "need" to see it installed. It just needs to be "proven". If it looks great, has a great weave, great clearcoat, and all of your other products have great fitment, then the inability to see it installed wouldn't stop me. I also would assume that in the process, you would prob make a RHD version for yourself, and seeing the same product installed in the RHD version should suffice, seeing as the quality would be the same, coming from the same vendor.

As I said before, I won't be making one for my own car. Firstly because it will be a track car, and I'd much prefer fitting a plate in there I can hack and mod controls into. This and I'm only interested in this forum as an outlet for now. Not that many NSXs in HK and I have no access to other LHD markets. Nor the time to deal with it.

The flat surface for the stereo is a good idea also, but kinda sucks for the guys who want the CF CC but want to keep the stock head unit. Once the mold is made of a USDM CC, I would assume it wouldn't be too hard to modify and make a second mold with the flat surface. Why not use the USDM OEM mold if you already have it, and there is a demand for it? Then you could offer two versions... an OEM USDM, and a flat panel version. :biggrin:

As far as the ashtray goes... I don't really care either way. If you want to treat the ashtray as a separate piece, then I would buy it if you didn't offer a completely flat panel (stereo delete and ashtray delete). I also use my cigarette lighter quite frequently as a power point. If the ashtray were deleted I would prob install three flush power points in it's place. The idea of using an overlay on the ashtray makes me cringe, but you gotta do what you gotta do... cause I would not leave it silver. :eek:
Yes but as with before, I just worry that the supply of available options (CC) out there is more than demand. And not so much from the point of not being able to break even, but spending a lot of effort and no one making use of it. I think it's safe to say you are unique and the only one on this forum willing to buy them all! There's an element of risk in the CC that is not present in the other parts I'm considering. If someone has an acceptable product already 1.5vendors confirmed as of now. I'd rather concentrate on getting other good parts for everyone.

On the issue of the ashtray cover. This is something I can try to make to compliment other vendor CCs.


See above regarding my thoughts on the ashtray delete...

Again, thanks for your time and interest in this community and for your future contributions... :biggrin:

Hey don't mention it. I wouldn't do it if I wasn't having fun also.
 
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