not running on all cylinders

hold on, theres even more cars out there with coil packs? i thought only the 91-96 300zx (and infiniti q something during that time) had them. then i was shocked to see the nsx has them. but ferrari in the 80's too?

what i meant was the poor sealing of the spark plug tunnels which is extremely common on those cars.
glad you fixed your problem- enjoy.
 
I wish someone would design a nice rubber gasket to seal off water from the engine area for us guys that don't want an engine lid. Just need to seal off the hatch glass. I think that would sell.
 
You bought a 16 year old car with high mileage (for an NSX) for a daily use vehicle and didn't expect anything to go wrong?:confused:

BTW, My car has NEVER had an oil pan gasket leak...
 
You bought a 16 year old car with high mileage (for an NSX) for a daily use vehicle and didn't expect anything to go wrong?:confused:

BTW, My car has NEVER had an oil pan gasket leak...
Your lucky. My 53,000 miler oil pan leaked. I strongly recommend changing this before any header install.
 
First, take a Valium and calm down. There are several really good NSX owners in Ft. Myers and Sarasota that are willing to help before you stone it to death.
Don't go spastic ripping stuff off and throwing money at it you don't need to! If you really want to, throw it at me until you feel better and them i'll fix it.
First don't rip out the coil packs to see which one isn't working although everything Brad, (OLDMNSX) says is 100% correct! Do it and you won't go wrong.
Get a CHEAP squirt bottle that has an adjustable nozzle and set it to pin point spray. I know it's hard but start it up and get under it enough to spray WATER on each individual exhaust pipe as close to the block as you can and the dead one will NOT hiss. That's the bad one and you've only spent 3.00.
Then do the resistance check on that coil pack. They aren't cheap so take Chris at SOS up on his offer or maybe someone in FMY or SRQ will help you out if you ask here. I'm sure someone will.
Also while your at it, it's not a bad idea to change the plugs. Don't get them at Acura, they're cheaper at an auto parts store, same plug. INSIST and don't settle for any other than NGK!!. The part number is in the owners manual if they aren't already installed.
When you need OEM parts, the best, most informed, (in my opinion and many others as well) least expensive and free shiping is Ray Laks Acura in New York. Call them and ask for JR, (1-888-RAY-LAKS). He WILL get you sorted. I live in Ft. Myers and ever since Larry Bastanza turned me on to them i've become a true believer in what I said.
By the way, get a maintenance manual ! Even if your not a mechanic they are invaluable for info.
Report back and let us know where you are and if any more steps are necessary we'll go there then.
Get AAA, it's $75 a year and I used them three weeks ago on Interstate 95 and the seventy five bucks was a drop in the bucket to what it would have been out of pocket to tow my Prelude when it spit a timing belt in rush hour traffic.
Also you could have saved two hundred dollars changing your own ignition if you had a manual. It's a piece of piss with a Phillips screwdrive and a couple of metric wrenches, for future reference.
This site is so full of dedicated and knowledgeable people anxious to help each other out it will make you dizzy. All you have to do is explain what's up to the best of your ability and whamo, they show up.

Cheers
nigel


+1 for Ray Laks Acura. I usually order from Tim but JR has been helpful too. Great guys and the best prices i've found.
 
You bought a 16 year old car with high mileage (for an NSX) for a daily use vehicle and didn't expect anything to go wrong?:confused:

lol big_D. :biggrin:

I know there is an optimist in you!

the oil pan gasket should be fixed since it will leak on to your exhaust pipes and you'll be smelling burnt oil. I recommend you getting that changed at the same time you do your header install since exhaust pipe removal makes the oil pan job much easier.

happy motoring

Rob:smile:
 
I appreciate the info davidf and Ron98, I had my headers installed last year and have never had a problem. My tech didn't even mention that I should replace it. I guess time will tell.

To the OP, I am sure once you get these minor nuisances corrected, you will be enjoying the car much more.
 
I appreciate the info davidf and Ron98, I had my headers installed last year and have never had a problem. My tech didn't even mention that I should replace it. I guess time will tell.

To the OP, I am sure once you get these minor nuisances corrected, you will be enjoying the car much more.

no leak, no problems :smile: im sure your tech would have told you if there was something going on.

drive on brotha :biggrin:
 
Why didn't you get a CEL when one coil pack isn't working? Maybe the malfunction isn't bad enough so it is not detectable by the ECU?

About that "wobbling engine at 1900 rpm which is completely normal", I've heard it can be due to worn engine mounts, or not torquing the engine mounts in the right sequence when reinstalling engine into the car. Anyone else have more ideas?
 
The RWG is not designed properly and as such allows water in regardless of the engine cover seals.

I approache DF with and idea to solve this but they are still considering.

I think a few would be sold but, we'll see, I might just have to have some made locally.

Cheers,

AR
 
Stevetwors,

Welcome to Prime and I understand your frustration because I'm living it.

My NSX is a mint condition 1991 but that being said I do have 2 major issues on the car that cause me to lose my hair! One is an electrical gremlin that the previous owner and I are both experiencing and not yet able to diagnose and the second is an air conditioning system that sucks if best! Both bug the living crap out of me and are now my major tasks to fix as I've finished modifying my car.

Sometimes these things get the best of us but you need to put it behind you(I was swearing like a trooper one evening after just having enough and wanted to sell her, kick in the doors, etc.).

Sounds as though your on the right track...
 
About that "wobbling engine at 1900 rpm which is completely normal", I've heard it can be due to worn engine mounts, or not torquing the engine mounts in the right sequence when reinstalling engine into the car. Anyone else have more ideas?
I was under the impression it has to do with the basic engine layout/design (90-degree V6). It can be made worse by various things (engine actually missing, engine mount issues, etc) but the basic vibration every NSX has at certain RPMs is not because of worn or mis-installed engine mounts. It is, as your first line notes "completely normal."
 
nsx has inherently rigid engine/differential assembly. if those two were mounted separately as in most cars, better damping of the vibration could be afforded as it would not affect the rigidity of the drivetrain. worn engine mounts will make the problem worse.
 
First, the air conditining in these cars is to say the least the dogs bollicks! (R-12) The only thing i've been in that cools colder and with more force is a
Bell 212 with a Parker Hannifin A/C system. They both virtually throw ice cubes at you only usually in the 212 you have a helmet on. In the NSX you have to duck.
I've heard of a few that have evaporators go bad and they are a huge pain in the butt to change but if you take care with scheduled cleaning and use it should last the life of the car.
Next, I bought an engine dampner from Henry at GTOne and it was a little pricey but it virtually stopped the engine vibration and took the load off the engine mounts while allowing it to move under high torque loads. Highly recomend them for what it's worth.

Cheers
nigel
 
that damper is mounted in 'almost opposite' direction from what it needs to be to really work. more bling than function.
 
Steve, I logged on tonight the first time in several months and saw this and you are in Tampabay.

I logged on to handle some awful business of my own not related to the X but since I am here I will deal with you first.

welcome! I am always pleased to meet another NSX owner unless they are a stuck up dick. I also try to be helpful as possible in resolving a hairpuller.
I have several good coils that fit your car if you are still unresolved!I always checked my own coil packs and injectors with a digitil meter.

I have a defib-pacemaker that is defective to begin with and if they had told me I would (and have on half a dozen times) get zapped working on the electronics in automobiles I would not have let them install it. its never saved my life I dont think and damn near killed me a couple times.

so if you need or want to talk pm me ya digits.

Also we have an outstanding local NSX mechanic named MIKE PERCY! He works for crown in clearwater and he is the straight up shit. that boy has been working on the NSX since it came out and was one of the first to get certed on the car BTW he owns one too! so trust me when I tell you he knows his shit, is honest and a great guy even if he thinks I am crazy (in a good way) and hope to see the bastard soon its been to long. HE DOES NOT WORK FOR FREE! just a heads up. thats how he keeps the lights on if you know what I mean
Well good luck and like I said if you need some info or help let me know. I know a tad about the X also. I treat everyone the same new or old to sporting cars and will never yank your crank, I will always tell you what I think about the issue as in the truth not candy coated
again a warm welcome
best regards david
ps I am not in the best health so I will get with you if need be on my time and when I am up to it.and if you are squared away maybe a run sometime soon
 
Steve, I logged on tonight the first time in several months and saw this and you are in Tampabay.

I logged on to handle some awful business of my own not related to the X but since I am here I will deal with you first.

welcome! I am always pleased to meet another NSX owner unless they are a stuck up dick. I also try to be helpful as possible in resolving a hairpuller.
I have several good coils that fit your car if you are still unresolved!I always checked my own coil packs and injectors with a digitil meter.

thanks man! yup got the problem resolved. runs very nice and stout now. 2 coils were bad. i still think theres room for improvement though, i wonder if replacing all the coils with new ones will make the motor run even more like new?

i want to meet with nsx drivers!
 
thanks man! yup got the problem resolved. runs very nice and stout now. 2 coils were bad. i still think theres room for improvement though, i wonder if replacing all the coils with new ones will make the motor run even more like new?

i want to meet with nsx drivers!

Have you replaced all the spark plugs too?

Why replace just 2 coil packs - go ahead and replace the others all at once along w/ the spark plugs.

Also be sure your injectors are clean. Send them off to RCengineering and they will clean and balance them.
 
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Have you replaced all the spark plugs too?

Why replace just 2 coil packs - go ahead and replace the others all at once along w/ the spark plugs.

Also be sure your injectors are clean. Send them off to RCengineering and they will clean and balance them.

i put in some spark plugs (i think bkr6es) and after replacing the bad coil packs, it ran even worse, backfiring and just really horrible performance (probably because i didn't gap them, but it said they are pregapped to the same factory spec gap listed for the nsx, so i just put them in). then i put in the oem plugs and it finally ran good again.

you and me are on the same page buddy, i was thinking the same thing, might as well replace all the coils. i figure what affects the engine running smoothly the most is the quality of the spark and quality of the fuel injection spray. another thing i noticed is there is a sort of spring load tension inside the coil's "arm" which keeps constant pressure against the spark plug to create a constant connection. the new coils have a noticeable spring tension pushing against the spark plug whereas the old coils have almost no tension anymore, and, now that i think about it, they dont even feel like they are touching the spark plug at all when i tighten the bolts. but if nothing else it would be good if all coils have equal strength to the spark they generate, i think little details like this make a noticeable difference in this car.

and i was thinking the same thing about the injectors, but i was thinking of just putting new ones in, not cleaning / flow balancing them. if i am going to the trouble of removing the rail i might as well spend a bit more to just get new ones.
 
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