not running on all cylinders

[stevetwors]

this is my first post. just bought this thing:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102213

man i have just about had it with this piece of shit. i just want to throw rocks at it.

of course its my luck that 3 days after buying the car, i get stuck in the absolute middle of nowhere, furthest point from any form of modern civilization, somewhere south of sarasota on 75. costed me $200+ in towing, $300 to replace the ignition switch at gettel acura (he took $100 off because of slow part shipping because of snow storm in memphis where the werehouse is located). i understand from reading here its a very common part to fail on these cars.

and now, 3 days later after that fiasco, its running like shit. one of the cylinders is not working.

when i get home i plan on taking off those service covers and pulling each coilpack wire one at a time while running and listen for no change in order to pinpoint which one is the bad cylinder. does this sound like a good plan? my guess it is one of the rear coilpacks because the previous owner pointed out to me the engine hatch seal is leaking somewhere causing water to drip down onto the rear of the engine, right onto where the coilpacks are. i have been caught in the rain a couple times since owning it so water has probably fried one of them. also how do i check each injector to make sure they are working? put a screwdriver up to each one and put my ear on the screwdriver handle to listen for clicking?

this is really quite ridiculous, i bought this car because of its reputation of being one of the most reliable sports cars ever made, and i cant drive it for more than a couple days without some problem happening. ive had a 91 300zx twin turbo for years, NOT ONE PROBLEM. NADA.

thanks in advance for any help or comments.

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

We have some extra coil packs that you can use to isolate the problem. Give us a call if you need some help.

The car is 16-17 years old, so some maintenance is going to have to be expected.

cheers,
-- Chris

 

[Miner]

this is my first post. just bought this thing:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102213

man i have just about had it with this piece of shit. i just want to throw rocks at it.

of course its my luck that 3 days after buying the car, i get stuck in the absolute middle of nowhere, furthest point from any form of modern civilization, somewhere south of sarasota on 75. costed me $200+ in towing, $300 to replace the ignition switch at gettel acura (he took $100 off because of slow part shipping because of snow storm in memphis where the werehouse is located). i understand from reading here its a very common part to fail on these cars.

and now, 3 days later after that fiasco, its running like shit. one of the cylinders is not working.

when i get home i plan on taking off those service covers and pulling each coilpack wire one at a time while running and listen for no change in order to pinpoint which one is the bad cylinder. does this sound like a good plan? my guess it is one of the rear coilpacks because the previous owner pointed out to me the engine hatch seal is leaking somewhere causing water to drip down onto the rear of the engine, right onto where the coilpacks are. i have been caught in the rain a couple times since owning it so water has probably fried one of them. also how do i check each injector to make sure they are working? put a screwdriver up to each one and put my ear on the screwdriver handle to listen for clicking?

this is really quite ridiculous, i bought this car because of its reputation of being one of the most reliable sports cars ever made, and i cant drive it for more than a couple days without some problem happening. ive had a 91 300zx twin turbo for years, NOT ONE PROBLEM. NADA.

thanks in advance for any help or comments.

I'll give you $50 for your P.O.S. and haul it away if you don't want it.

Miner

 

[4AU4LIFE]

I'll give you $50 for your P.O.S. and haul it away if you don't want it.

Miner

I'll double that.:biggrin:
BTW, Chris, that is a very generous offer considering this is the first post of the OP and it is nothing but complaints.
Hopefully he'll get it worked out and realize how wonderful these cars really are.
Can't believe he is comparing the reliability of it to a Nissan. Since you haven't had problems with the 300Z that must mean you haven't been driving it.:biggrin:

 

[swerve2007]

you bought a garage queen- problems are bound to appear. once you get the maintenance up to spec i doubt you'll be unhappy.

 

[02#154]

It's obvious you're frustrated. But why would you come here to Prime and use the words "piece of shit" to describe your car? Why would you contrast it to your Nissan in such a negative way? Stop and think about it. Do you really think a car that's older than 15 years is a piece of shit because of an ignition switch and a failing engine hatch seal (which admittedly may have caused your suspected coil failure)?

Your first step onto Prime as a user (your post count is 1 as I write this) and you bad-mouth the site's namesake. Nice...

J

 

[stevetwors]

ive calmed down a little. i should've mentioned this car is absolutely amazing to drive ... when its working properly. i cant believe how much attention i am getting everywhere i go, its almost too much attention, people staring at me all the time at every streetlight, EVERY streetlight, no exaggeration. thank god it has super dark tinted windows. i am completely addicted to driving it, i cant stop driving it, i look for reasons to drive somewhere.

there, now that thats been said and out of the way ... all of the awesomeness and pure kick ass things about this car get completely canceled out and thrown out the window when shit like this happens. i completely forget how incredible this car is when ive had 2 problems already. for now, its my daily driver until i finish the Z project. i also have a hooptie for emergencies such as today because im not going to drive it in this poor state its in. im pretty sure driving with not all cylinders working is really bad for those cylinders. if its no spark, then theres fuel washing the oil away on the cylinder wall and this causes too much friction and wear.

has anyone had a similiar problem that can comment? is it common for the hatch seal to leak causing water to drip on the coilpacks frying one or more of them?

 

[stevetwors]

It's obvious you're frustrated. But why would you come here to Prime and use the words "piece of shit" to describe your car? Why would you contrast it to your Nissan in such a negative way? Stop and think about it. Do you really think a car that's older than 15 years is a piece of shit because of an ignition switch and a failing engine hatch seal (which admittedly may have caused your suspected coil failure)?

Your first step onto Prime as a user (your post count is 1 as I write this) and you bad-mouth the site's namesake. Nice...

J

i know you're totally right and i meant to edit my post but it was too late and replies had already happened. of course its not a piece of shit, im just really pissed right now and i guess i just happened to be lucky and get spoiled by not having any problems with my previous toy. i guess i do sound like a spoiled brat right now.

 

[ScienceofSpeed]

has anyone had a similiar problem that can comment? is it common for the hatch seal to leak causing water to drip on the coilpacks frying one or more of them?

The coil pack covers have a seal that help in water not getting down to a coil. You should first make sure that they are in place (they are labeled front and rear - the rear must be on the rear and the seal must be on the top of the cover. That being said, if there is a significant amount of water getting on top of the engine, this seal may not be enough.

If the coils have water in them, or water has caused corrosion, they will not work. They should be removed, inspected for moisture, and tested if you think the problem is ignition related.

regards,
-- Chris

 

[davidf]

For the record, once the car is running 100 percent, it will feel like it's missing at idle. These cars do have an obvious vibration up to 18/1900 rpms. Though it's bothersome it's perfectly normal.:smile:

 

[nsxotic911]

The coil pack covers have a seal that help in water not getting down to a coil. You should first make sure that they are in place (they are labeled front and rear - the rear must be on the rear and the seal must be on the top of the cover. That being said, if there is a significant amount of water getting on top of the engine, this seal may not be enough.

If the coils have water in them, or water has caused corrosion, they will not work. They should be removed, inspected for moisture, and tested if you think the problem is ignition related.

regards,
-- Chris

To add on to that - before you go replacing expensive parts, do adequate troubleshooting. Check the ignition coils like Chris said by getting a multimeter and checking the resistance on them. I'm too lazy right now.. but it's in the service manual for what the numbers should be.

I'd also look at your spark plugs, and just replace them anyway unless you know they've been replaced in < 10K miles.

If you got CEL (which I think you should based on what you're explaining..) going to Autozone or whever and getting the code would be super helpful. ..
Lastly, could you have water or gunk in your gas tank.....? You might want to try some Redline Fuel System cleaner but if you have significant gunk or water in your injectors or gas tank.......... it won't help and you shouldn't be cranking the car b/c it will only make it worse.

PS: The hatch seals do leak and can be visible in your situation or when you wash the car (though you can just put a towel or blanket over them) In my experience however, when you're runnign around in the rain like I do in Seattle... whatever rain or misture might occur gets evaporated by hitting the engine valve cover and such. This is even with the spark plug cover plates (or whatever they're called) removed.
However, if you're going or sitting in a monsoon, that's a different story.

 

[swerve2007]

just ask any 80's/90's ferrari owner about seals between valve covers and the coil packs/ sparkplug wires
like chris said, make sure the space around sparkplugs is dry- once the water gets in there it will not just evaporate.
it might be a good idea just to replace the coils altogether due to the age of the car- the side benefit beeing new seals.

 

[GreyHoundSteve]

Sorry to hear about your bad luck with your new car.

What year and milage is your NSX?

I purchased a 91 with 135k on it last November. I wasn't too worried about the milage since my "hooptie" (daily) is a 92 Legend with 180K hard miles on it and it still runs as strong as the day i bought it and has been a very reliable vehicle for me.

I expected a few things would need attention when i bought the car and tried to educate myself beforehand about some of the things to look for when i was NSX shopping. I think i got a good deal on my car for the $19k i paid for it but having put less than 2,000 miles on it since buying it i have already spent another $12,000 on owning it.
Now most of that was spent on a new paint job and rims but probably $4,000 of it was spent on little things that the car had either lost over the years or were damaged due to the age of the car.
Most of it has been plastic parts and gaskets. I also just recent,y bought an exhaust and headers and so its in the shop again getting them installed and i am also replacing the oil pan gasket (leaking), the exhaust manifold gasket (just old), the valve cover gaskets and having the valves adjusted (getting a ticking sound). I am also installing new spark plugs and gaskets and this is all after i have already rebuilt and powder-coated the brake calipers, installed new rotors and new oem pads, ss brake lines and replaced every bulb on the car. My interior is also worn and the stereo is still stock and therefore needs replacing too.

My point is; The NSX IS a reliable "exotic" car but it is still and old car and has probably been driven pretty hard at times so expect to spend some money when you just acquired one because it is not often that people spend a ton of money on a cars maintenance just to turn around and sell it. Most often it is the opposite and you are buying what someone else has put off doing.
If you cant afford that risk then you should probably stick to buying new at which point i'm sure you wont be able to find a car for the money that will bring you as much attention and fun as the NSX will.

 

[SweetChuck]

Also before you go taking out coil packs , check the power transistor unit connectors for corrosion and clean if necessary . Could be something simple .

 

[OLDMNSX]

Well, first off WELCOME to the best car forum in the web. The guys here are great to help. Sorry you kind of started off on the wrong foot. As you can see we are PASSIONATE about our NSXs. We love our cars for the engineering marvel, in all of the ways, that they are. You have to remember you didn't purchase a brand new 91 NSX. You purchased a 91 NSX that was new in 91. Since the day the car left the dealership in was in someone elses hands to care for and feed, or NOT. Even though your car has had extensive maintenance recently, that doesn't mean that there is nothing that needs attention. Unfortunately you are finding some of those things out very soon after your purchase. Just remember "This too shall pass.......................with enough money". Enough of that, now you need some help.

Here is what I would do.
1. Find the Acura NSX Maintenance manual here on the site. To do that go to the top of the page and click on Wiki, then under The NSX Reference Library click on NSX Service Manuals, then 1.1 Electronic Copies of the Service Manual then go here http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf, NOW DO NOT just click on this, follow the steps! You need to know how to find it. Go to electrical (all the way to the bottom on the left) and find page 23-95. Here are the specs for the coil packs. I refuse to be a parts changer. I don't replace anything unless I can prove that it has failed, or has reached its time before replacement.

I would bet that if you remove all of the rear coil packs and look down in the spark plug holes that you will find water in one of them start with the rear bank, as was suggested in a previous reply. Dry the water out by using air to blow it out, or I take a piece of clear plastic tube that fits loosely into the spark plug tube, push it down close to the spark plug and use my shop vac to suck the water out. Then see where the bad seal is, on the top of the coil and or the spark plug end. Check the resistance of the coil pack and put it all back together.

If you are not mechanical read the manual and get educated. If you will do the research on the problems that you do have, using this manual, the repairs will be a lot cheaper for you because you can tell the mechanic what needs to be fixed. If it isn't an Acura mechanic, print him out the pages from this PDF. If you do your own work you will begin to appreciate the true engineering jewel that these cars really are.

Good Luck,:smile:
Brad

 

[Ski_Banker]

Sorry to hear about your luck, but rest assured, the good things you've heard about the NSX are 100% correct (very reliable, bulletproof) as are the bad things you've heard (relatively slow, expensive to upgrade). The only thing you may have heard about the NSX which that ISN'T 100% true is that the car is worth every penny -- it is.


Once you get these gremlins sorted out, which might cost $1-2k but no more, you'll be spot on and ready to roll. Promise, and welcome to Prime! :smile:

 

[nigel]

First, take a Valium and calm down. There are several really good NSX owners in Ft. Myers and Sarasota that are willing to help before you stone it to death.
Don't go spastic ripping stuff off and throwing money at it you don't need to! If you really want to, throw it at me until you feel better and them i'll fix it.
First don't rip out the coil packs to see which one isn't working although everything Brad, (OLDMNSX) says is 100% correct! Do it and you won't go wrong.
Get a CHEAP squirt bottle that has an adjustable nozzle and set it to pin point spray. I know it's hard but start it up and get under it enough to spray WATER on each individual exhaust pipe as close to the block as you can and the dead one will NOT hiss. That's the bad one and you've only spent 3.00.
Then do the resistance check on that coil pack. They aren't cheap so take Chris at SOS up on his offer or maybe someone in FMY or SRQ will help you out if you ask here. I'm sure someone will.
Also while your at it, it's not a bad idea to change the plugs. Don't get them at Acura, they're cheaper at an auto parts store, same plug. INSIST and don't settle for any other than NGK!!. The part number is in the owners manual if they aren't already installed.
When you need OEM parts, the best, most informed, (in my opinion and many others as well) least expensive and free shiping is Ray Laks Acura in New York. Call them and ask for JR, (1-888-RAY-LAKS). He WILL get you sorted. I live in Ft. Myers and ever since Larry Bastanza turned me on to them i've become a true believer in what I said.
By the way, get a maintenance manual ! Even if your not a mechanic they are invaluable for info.
Report back and let us know where you are and if any more steps are necessary we'll go there then.
Get AAA, it's $75 a year and I used them three weeks ago on Interstate 95 and the seventy five bucks was a drop in the bucket to what it would have been out of pocket to tow my Prelude when it spit a timing belt in rush hour traffic.
Also you could have saved two hundred dollars changing your own ignition if you had a manual. It's a piece of piss with a Phillips screwdrive and a couple of metric wrenches, for future reference.
This site is so full of dedicated and knowledgeable people anxious to help each other out it will make you dizzy. All you have to do is explain what's up to the best of your ability and whamo, they show up.

Cheers
nigel

 

[stevetwors]

great news! i am very confident i found the problem!

with the engine at idle, i pulled each coil pack connector and listened for a drop in rpms. the very first one i pulled which i suspected to be the bad one, had no drop in rpms. i suspected this one because this the back left corner of the motor exactly where the water will spill on when i wash the car and open the hatch to reveal a stream dripping on that area. i pulled the other 2 on that side of the motor and they caused a drop in rpms. just to be absolutely sure its the coil pack and (god forbid) not the fuel injector, i unbolted the suspected bad one and the one next to it and swapped them. when i did the unplug test the "no change" cylinder now became the one where i moved the suspected bad coil pack to. this proves without a doubt in my mind it is that coil pack that needs to be replaced. also this coil pack was different from the other ones in that it had stinky swampy moisture all along down the black tube connector whereas the one next to it did not. so this also means there is water on the spark plug in the tunnel which i need to dry out somehow.

The coil pack covers have a seal that help in water not getting down to a coil. You should first make sure that they are in place (they are labeled front and rear - the rear must be on the rear and the seal must be on the top of the cover. That being said, if there is a significant amount of water getting on top of the engine, this seal may not be enough.

If the coils have water in them, or water has caused corrosion, they will not work. They should be removed, inspected for moisture, and tested if you think the problem is ignition related.

regards,
-- Chris

the rear plastic coil pack cover had only one rubber seal on it, towards the top/front edge. is there supposed to be one on the lower/rear edge as well? iow ... is there supposed to be 2 rubber seals per plastic cover? i can see how the top front seal might be enough to stop any dripping water running down off the valve cover, but i would think the designers rather it be completely sealed.

 

[stevetwors]

For the record, once the car is running 100 percent, it will feel like it's missing at idle. These cars do have an obvious vibration up to 18/1900 rpms. Though it's bothersome it's perfectly normal.:smile:

i know exactly what you mean. i noticed this the moment i drove away from the seller. its weird. im used to motors being electric smooth the whole rpm range.

 

[stevetwors]

just ask any 80's/90's ferrari owner about seals between valve covers and the coil packs/ sparkplug wires
like chris said, make sure the space around sparkplugs is dry- once the water gets in there it will not just evaporate.
it might be a good idea just to replace the coils altogether due to the age of the car- the side benefit beeing new seals.

hold on, theres even more cars out there with coil packs? i thought only the 91-96 300zx (and infiniti q something during that time) had them. then i was shocked to see the nsx has them. but ferrari in the 80's too?

 

[stevetwors]

Sorry to hear about your bad luck with your new car.

What year and milage is your NSX?

I purchased a 91 with 135k on it last November. I wasn't too worried about the milage since my "hooptie" (daily) is a 92 Legend with 180K hard miles on it and it still runs as strong as the day i bought it and has been a very reliable vehicle for me.

I expected a few things would need attention when i bought the car and tried to educate myself beforehand about some of the things to look for when i was NSX shopping. I think i got a good deal on my car for the $19k i paid for it but having put less than 2,000 miles on it since buying it i have already spent another $12,000 on owning it.
Now most of that was spent on a new paint job and rims but probably $4,000 of it was spent on little things that the car had either lost over the years or were damaged due to the age of the car.
Most of it has been plastic parts and gaskets. I also just recent,y bought an exhaust and headers and so its in the shop again getting them installed and i am also replacing the oil pan gasket (leaking), the exhaust manifold gasket (just old), the valve cover gaskets and having the valves adjusted (getting a ticking sound). I am also installing new spark plugs and gaskets and this is all after i have already rebuilt and powder-coated the brake calipers, installed new rotors and new oem pads, ss brake lines and replaced every bulb on the car. My interior is also worn and the stereo is still stock and therefore needs replacing too.

My point is; The NSX IS a reliable "exotic" car but it is still and old car and has probably been driven pretty hard at times so expect to spend some money when you just acquired one because it is not often that people spend a ton of money on a cars maintenance just to turn around and sell it. Most often it is the opposite and you are buying what someone else has put off doing.
If you cant afford that risk then you should probably stick to buying new at which point i'm sure you wont be able to find a car for the money that will bring you as much attention and fun as the NSX will.

i was about to say you got a better deal than i did but it looks like we're about even. the first post in this thread has a link to the FS ad of the car i bought. its a 92 with 140k miles. a lot of the things you did are what was done recently on this car. the oil pan leaking seems to happen to every single nsx ever created ... wtf? so thats been replaced along with every other seal on the motor except for rear main seal. well, just read the ad. the car looks, and even smells, brand new. its almost impossible to tell its not a new car. a lot of rubber/plastic was replaced, window trimmings, everything. this is exactly what i was looking for, one that has everything you can think of done to it already so my mind would be at ease.

what i dont understand, and what worries me, is people using the "exotic" tag as an excuse for things to break more often than on a regular sports car. to me, exotic means nothing more than low production numbers, and difficult to mass produce. those qualities should not make that car any different from any other vehicle in terms of reliability. they even have the same parts as normal mass produced vehicles. i blame italian trash (ferrari, lambo) for giving "exotic" a bad name in terms of reliability.

 

[stevetwors]

Well, first off WELCOME to the best car forum in the web. The guys here are great to help. Sorry you kind of started off on the wrong foot. As you can see we are PASSIONATE about our NSXs. We love our cars for the engineering marvel, in all of the ways, that they are. You have to remember you didn't purchase a brand new 91 NSX. You purchased a 91 NSX that was new in 91. Since the day the car left the dealership in was in someone elses hands to care for and feed, or NOT. Even though your car has had extensive maintenance recently, that doesn't mean that there is nothing that needs attention. Unfortunately you are finding some of those things out very soon after your purchase. Just remember "This too shall pass.......................with enough money". Enough of that, now you need some help.

Here is what I would do.
1. Find the Acura NSX Maintenance manual here on the site. To do that go to the top of the page and click on Wiki, then under The NSX Reference Library click on NSX Service Manuals, then 1.1 Electronic Copies of the Service Manual then go here http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf, NOW DO NOT just click on this, follow the steps! You need to know how to find it. Go to electrical (all the way to the bottom on the left) and find page 23-95. Here are the specs for the coil packs. I refuse to be a parts changer. I don't replace anything unless I can prove that it has failed, or has reached its time before replacement.

I would bet that if you remove all of the rear coil packs and look down in the spark plug holes that you will find water in one of them start with the rear bank, as was suggested in a previous reply. Dry the water out by using air to blow it out, or I take a piece of clear plastic tube that fits loosely into the spark plug tube, push it down close to the spark plug and use my shop vac to suck the water out. Then see where the bad seal is, on the top of the coil and or the spark plug end. Check the resistance of the coil pack and put it all back together.

If you are not mechanical read the manual and get educated. If you will do the research on the problems that you do have, using this manual, the repairs will be a lot cheaper for you because you can tell the mechanic what needs to be fixed. If it isn't an Acura mechanic, print him out the pages from this PDF. If you do your own work you will begin to appreciate the true engineering jewel that these cars really are.

Good Luck,:smile:
Brad

thank you! ive been looking for exactly this stuff you mentioned. all the other car forums have these things and i couldnt find it here. what do you mean you refuse to change parts? you dont agree with the method i used to find the bad part? (see previous post by me)

and i must admit, after getting in there i am impressed with how simple this motor is. maybe it seems more simple because the rest of the stuff is in the front? my only complaint is the back of the motor is covered up and hard to get to, and its hard leaning over so far to get in there.

 

[docjohn]

thank you! ive been looking for exactly this stuff you mentioned. all the other car forums have these things and i couldnt find it here. what do you mean you refuse to change parts? you dont agree with the method i used to find the bad part? (see previous post by me)

and i must admit, after getting in there i am impressed with how simple this motor is. maybe it seems more simple because the rest of the stuff is in the front? my only complaint is the back of the motor is covered up and hard to get to, and its hard leaning over so far to get in there.

If you are going to be doing alot of your own engine work and your concearned about damaging your paint you can get a nifty fitted work mat that covers the entire quarter panel from most dealers.

 

[stevetwors]

First, take a Valium and calm down. There are several really good NSX owners in Ft. Myers and Sarasota that are willing to help before you stone it to death.
Don't go spastic ripping stuff off and throwing money at it you don't need to! If you really want to, throw it at me until you feel better and them i'll fix it.
First don't rip out the coil packs to see which one isn't working although everything Brad, (OLDMNSX) says is 100% correct! Do it and you won't go wrong.
Get a CHEAP squirt bottle that has an adjustable nozzle and set it to pin point spray. I know it's hard but start it up and get under it enough to spray WATER on each individual exhaust pipe as close to the block as you can and the dead one will NOT hiss. That's the bad one and you've only spent 3.00.
Then do the resistance check on that coil pack. They aren't cheap so take Chris at SOS up on his offer or maybe someone in FMY or SRQ will help you out if you ask here. I'm sure someone will.
Also while your at it, it's not a bad idea to change the plugs. Don't get them at Acura, they're cheaper at an auto parts store, same plug. INSIST and don't settle for any other than NGK!!. The part number is in the owners manual if they aren't already installed.
When you need OEM parts, the best, most informed, (in my opinion and many others as well) least expensive and free shiping is Ray Laks Acura in New York. Call them and ask for JR, (1-888-RAY-LAKS). He WILL get you sorted. I live in Ft. Myers and ever since Larry Bastanza turned me on to them i've become a true believer in what I said.
By the way, get a maintenance manual ! Even if your not a mechanic they are invaluable for info.
Report back and let us know where you are and if any more steps are necessary we'll go there then.
Get AAA, it's $75 a year and I used them three weeks ago on Interstate 95 and the seventy five bucks was a drop in the bucket to what it would have been out of pocket to tow my Prelude when it spit a timing belt in rush hour traffic.
Also you could have saved two hundred dollars changing your own ignition if you had a manual. It's a piece of piss with a Phillips screwdrive and a couple of metric wrenches, for future reference.
This site is so full of dedicated and knowledgeable people anxious to help each other out it will make you dizzy. All you have to do is explain what's up to the best of your ability and whamo, they show up.

Cheers
nigel

hey dude, thanks! i agree with what you said except for the method of diagnosis. your method would not work for me because the coil pack would only start to show failure after the car was fully warmed up, at which point it would then idle rough and allow me to do the test i did. with your method, all exhaust header tubes would sizzle because of being already warmed up.

good on the parts hook up, thanks. and yes ngk is the only accepted brand for other sports cars as well.

 

[OLDMNSX]

what do you mean you refuse to change parts? you dont agree with the method i used to find the bad part? (see previous post by me)

Question: What do you mean you refuse to change parts?
Answer: In your case, with your problem, I would not order 6 new coil packs and replace all 6. I would determine if the coil pack was bad before replacing it.

Question: You dont agree with the method i used to find the bad part?
Answer: You did exactly what I would do. Trouble shoot the problem. Great Job. Now take it one step furthur, test the coil against the Ohm numbers in the manual and you will confirm your first test.

Get the bugs worked out and you will find a lot of joy in driving and working on your car.

Brad