Non-compliance stuff : how good is it ?

[illwillem]

Its easy to do even when the motor is in the car. Theres really nothing too difficult to get to. Exhaust needs to disconnect but you can leave it hanging. Headers dont need to be touched. I did mine on my floor jack in about 6 hours over two days. Its even easier when you have the non comp beam in front of you to see where the bolts are your gunna need to remove to get it out your stock one. Just be sure to mark your toe settings on the lobes before you take then off. I used the opportunity to harden my motor mounts and replace the CV boots since i had MUCH more room to work with.

 

[sparky]

Concerning rear toe adjustment, with these mods I can reduce it from ~-3 to -1 mm or less each side ?

but can anyone address this second part of asylum's original post ... I'd like to know too!

 

[illwillem]

From what Ive understood, yes. The factory rear toe setting is quite large from honda to counter the snap oversteer characteristic on the stock rear. Once you replace them with the non comp stuff you can run less toe out back because your bushings no longer deflect/deform when loaded, causing a dynamic toe change. The hardened rear stuff produces a static toe setting that wont change under compression gives that 'confident' feeling that every one describes the mod as providing.\

I personally reduced my toe settings after the hardened rear stuff was installed. This was as much to increaser treadwear while driving 95 miles to the track on my r comps as was to stabilize snappiness at the rear end. Some people like the response the the factory toe setting gives to the rear. Guess im not one of them.

 

[RYU]

illwillem - I just noticed you have a tow hook mounted in the rear. Have you ever had to use it? Been considering that location but afraid of the paper thin bracing on that part of the rear body.

 

[illwillem]

ive used it to pull around my garage. true though, it does look alittle thin to use to tow with anything that dosent have a delicate touch. You've also got to remove the rear bumper beam (or mill it down) to run one from this location. I'm planning on driving the car over to my buddies shop and come up with a better solution. Maybe reinforcing that spot or moving it all together.

 

[liftnot]

I did the install myself. For me the rear went like clockwork.
Dave said that I am the first one to do it all himself. He said that I must have gotten lucky.
RD

do you have any pic or instruction how to r/r the beam bushings?
I see two "C-clips" as part of the beam bushings so does a inside groove needs to be machined? or is it a straight forward press-out-old and press-in-new deal?

 

[sparky]

assuming you're using parts from SoS there's no need to machine anything but you do need a press and patience to push the bushes in. See attached the SoS installation instructions for the bushings

 

[liftnot]

thx much Sparky

 

[RYU]

thx much Sparky

Hey T-money, is there anyone in SD that can press in those bushings? I'm pondering sending my beam to TiDave but hoping for a local option.

illwillem - where did you get yours pressed in?

 

[illwillem]

I got them already pressed in a rear beam directly from titaniumdave. The whole bar came as a unit, bead blasted and pressed. I took the new fresh one out and reboxed my stock one and sent it right back. I had the core deposit refunded the next business day.

 

[RYU]

I got them already pressed in a rear beam directly from titaniumdave. The whole bar came as a unit, bead blasted and pressed. I took the new fresh one out and reboxed my stock one and sent it right back. I had the core deposit refunded the next business day.

Thanks for the info. It's very helpful. I may do the same.