DRY SHOT: a 70 shot dry is safe and reliable and if you throw in a safety switch (you had one if you owned a RM kit), RPM window switch and leave the horn activation but allow the horn button to kick the system on only with the car at WOT by using a throttle position micro switch and monitor your fuel pressure and A/F, with those measures you are darn safe. BTW those little added safety features are cost effective, not so with the fuel pressure electronic gauge. that costs some cash..around 180$ I believe but I would recommend that on both wet or dry.A quality A/F gauge will cost you also.concerning the fuel pressure you want the gauge that’s electronic so no fuel is routed to the driver compartment.
WET SHOT: If you have a strong clutch and know your motor is sound the stock internals as I have stated many times should handle a 100 shot with no issues.for the record in both dry and wet setups when I talk about handling the hp shot I mean for the long haul.ok back on track, you want wet for the larger shot as you will change the dynamics of fuel management in the sense of how the additional fuel that the motor needs while spraying is delivered. The dry shot uses the stock injectors to add the fuel and they are 240 cc on an NSX. If you demand to much fuel from them they can lock up at higher duty cycle's. The wet shot does not use the injectors to deliver the additional fuel its added directly via a feed from the fuel line and sprayed into the motor at the same location as the nitrous jet. The wet kit jets are much better these days at atomizing the fuel. The old days of puddles in the intake and the danger of an unexpected detonation of fuel there is outdated on a 100 shot wet with the new technology.
PREP OF CAR PRIOR TO NITRIOUS BOTH WET OR DRY:
1. COPPER PLUGS BKR7E gapped at .35 if not available BKR7E-11.The 11 means they are pre gapped at .44 that so happens to be the OEM spec for NSX plugs. Others still use iridium and NGK has recommendations on that but this is my opinion.
2. Replace your OEM fuel filter. On a dry kit all the fuel passes through this and you want no chance of fouling which could cause a loss of fuel pressure affecting the process (more on this in a moment
3. Validate you fuel pump is still running strong
4.Validate your ignition is putting out enough spark (up to OEM snuff)
a quick breakdown on an important aspect of the fuel delivery: on a dry kit when you activate the spray it leaks a small amount of nitrous in gas form via a second nitrous solenoid (a wet kit has a nitrous solenoid and a fuel solenoid the dry kit has 2 nitrous solenoids) to your fuel pressure regulator and this causes your fuel pressure to jump up to a level that will support the 70 shot of nitrous, the fuel safety switch insures this has happened before it allows the system to spray like wise if pressure drops it will turn your spray off as stated earlier in this letter. Dry systems use the stock injectors to provide the added fuel, this added pressure is what can cause an injector to fail from to high a duty cycle but its extremely unlikely at a 70 shot. Yet that’s WHY most dry kits fail when kids think they will just change out jets and spray 100-150 dry. Well that and the fuel pump could go south but if you have checked out the pump its a non issue but it is still not valid to spray high shots dry even if your pump is strong. Wet the fuel is delivered via the nozzle provided with you nitrous kit and the wet system does not raise the fuel pressure to dangerous levels which is why you can run the larger shot.
It is a matter of how much you want to deliver which should decide the method wet or dry.
SUM IT UP:
With a healthy motor on stock internals 70 shot dry is safe for the motor. Injectors can handle that size no problem although as stated above you should check out your fuel pump and change out the filter.
With a healthy motor on stock internals 100 shot wet should not be a problem but like the dry it is important to insure your fuel pump is doing the job,also consider you are using a larger shot.Some people add a second inline fuel pump to be really careful.
That’s my opinion on the matter.as you know you will hear many people say you can run much higher shots, recommend a different plug etc.I would much rather err on the side of safety and caution. Its very easy to tell a man he can spray a 150 shot on stock internals without recommending any safety precautions as its not his car. This is my take on the whole matter.I take the position of what I feel I would run on my own car and do it worry free for YEARS.
Best Regards David
P.S. hope that helped, I probably covered alot you already knew but what the heck (better safe then sorry
if any part of this letter left you confused or I did a bad explaination please email what issue was not clarified enough and I will pinpoint it to a better degree.
One last point. It is my positon that if you own an older model with high miles stick with a smaller shot as even NSX as awesome as it is wears with time and nitrous will only expedite the process. Believe me a 70 shot is nothing to sneeze at. If you own a rather new car I would opt for the 100 wet. This being said please remember this is all opinion and you all know what they say about that
WET SHOT: If you have a strong clutch and know your motor is sound the stock internals as I have stated many times should handle a 100 shot with no issues.for the record in both dry and wet setups when I talk about handling the hp shot I mean for the long haul.ok back on track, you want wet for the larger shot as you will change the dynamics of fuel management in the sense of how the additional fuel that the motor needs while spraying is delivered. The dry shot uses the stock injectors to add the fuel and they are 240 cc on an NSX. If you demand to much fuel from them they can lock up at higher duty cycle's. The wet shot does not use the injectors to deliver the additional fuel its added directly via a feed from the fuel line and sprayed into the motor at the same location as the nitrous jet. The wet kit jets are much better these days at atomizing the fuel. The old days of puddles in the intake and the danger of an unexpected detonation of fuel there is outdated on a 100 shot wet with the new technology.
PREP OF CAR PRIOR TO NITRIOUS BOTH WET OR DRY:
1. COPPER PLUGS BKR7E gapped at .35 if not available BKR7E-11.The 11 means they are pre gapped at .44 that so happens to be the OEM spec for NSX plugs. Others still use iridium and NGK has recommendations on that but this is my opinion.
2. Replace your OEM fuel filter. On a dry kit all the fuel passes through this and you want no chance of fouling which could cause a loss of fuel pressure affecting the process (more on this in a moment
3. Validate you fuel pump is still running strong
4.Validate your ignition is putting out enough spark (up to OEM snuff)
a quick breakdown on an important aspect of the fuel delivery: on a dry kit when you activate the spray it leaks a small amount of nitrous in gas form via a second nitrous solenoid (a wet kit has a nitrous solenoid and a fuel solenoid the dry kit has 2 nitrous solenoids) to your fuel pressure regulator and this causes your fuel pressure to jump up to a level that will support the 70 shot of nitrous, the fuel safety switch insures this has happened before it allows the system to spray like wise if pressure drops it will turn your spray off as stated earlier in this letter. Dry systems use the stock injectors to provide the added fuel, this added pressure is what can cause an injector to fail from to high a duty cycle but its extremely unlikely at a 70 shot. Yet that’s WHY most dry kits fail when kids think they will just change out jets and spray 100-150 dry. Well that and the fuel pump could go south but if you have checked out the pump its a non issue but it is still not valid to spray high shots dry even if your pump is strong. Wet the fuel is delivered via the nozzle provided with you nitrous kit and the wet system does not raise the fuel pressure to dangerous levels which is why you can run the larger shot.
It is a matter of how much you want to deliver which should decide the method wet or dry.
SUM IT UP:
With a healthy motor on stock internals 70 shot dry is safe for the motor. Injectors can handle that size no problem although as stated above you should check out your fuel pump and change out the filter.
With a healthy motor on stock internals 100 shot wet should not be a problem but like the dry it is important to insure your fuel pump is doing the job,also consider you are using a larger shot.Some people add a second inline fuel pump to be really careful.
That’s my opinion on the matter.as you know you will hear many people say you can run much higher shots, recommend a different plug etc.I would much rather err on the side of safety and caution. Its very easy to tell a man he can spray a 150 shot on stock internals without recommending any safety precautions as its not his car. This is my take on the whole matter.I take the position of what I feel I would run on my own car and do it worry free for YEARS.
Best Regards David
P.S. hope that helped, I probably covered alot you already knew but what the heck (better safe then sorry
if any part of this letter left you confused or I did a bad explaination please email what issue was not clarified enough and I will pinpoint it to a better degree.One last point. It is my positon that if you own an older model with high miles stick with a smaller shot as even NSX as awesome as it is wears with time and nitrous will only expedite the process. Believe me a 70 shot is nothing to sneeze at. If you own a rather new car I would opt for the 100 wet. This being said please remember this is all opinion and you all know what they say about that
they both serve burgers
