Just put the '95 NSXT back together after changing the timing belt. I feel like I did everything right but after starting the car it will not stay running at idle. The first time I started it the car idles rough, now it will not idle at all. Anybody have any idea?
Need Help Timing Belt Change Problem
- Thread starter petec
- Start date
hlweyl said:
Yep. Something is off. Set it to TDC, pull the timing covers, and see which cam(s) don't align with the indicators. Not a huge tragedy, as you generally have to be pretty far off to get pistons hitting valves, and since it was running at all, it's probably not that far off.
Did you lock the cams down when you changed it? You can have a cam 180 degrees out and it will appear to be aligned.
petec,
Obviously you took a lot of steps to do the job. First thing is to look over everything carefully. You should remove the valve covers, to recheck the marks, remember the marks for each cam should be just BELOW the covers, not aligned with the top of the cover. Typical timing issues are with the rear exhaust cam, since you must advance it to install the belt properly. If the car is really running fine except for idle you should check for an open vacuum line that may have been removed during the job. Then check plugs, coils, 02 sensor wires on the rear upper cover (real PITA on a 1995 OBDII) and everything you R&R'ed.
HTH,
LarryB
Obviously you took a lot of steps to do the job. First thing is to look over everything carefully. You should remove the valve covers, to recheck the marks, remember the marks for each cam should be just BELOW the covers, not aligned with the top of the cover. Typical timing issues are with the rear exhaust cam, since you must advance it to install the belt properly. If the car is really running fine except for idle you should check for an open vacuum line that may have been removed during the job. Then check plugs, coils, 02 sensor wires on the rear upper cover (real PITA on a 1995 OBDII) and everything you R&R'ed.
HTH,
LarryB
Yes I did lock the cams down. After the tensioning process, I went back to verify I could lock them down again at TDC. I guess I just have to go back over everything step by step. Can you determine the cams are in line by only taking off the timing belt covers or do you have to take off the valve covers too? I really struggled with the rear exhaust cam getting the belt on but I thougt I did get it on right especially after I was able to lock the cams down again. I would not think that if I did not have that cam right the car would not idle, run rough yes, but still idle.
By the way thanks for all the help and comments.
By the way thanks for all the help and comments.
Is it throwing any codes? That might be a start. If you locked the cams down and verified alignment after installation, it sounds to me like they are right. Did you verify the crank position relative to the cam position? The cams may be right with respect to each other but the crank may be off a tooth or 2. An easy way to verify that is to override the ECU timing adjustment and put a timing light on it. If the crank is wrong relative to the cams it should show up in the ignition timing.*
*This is assuming that the ignition timing is driven off of the cams. I don't know this for sure. Civics have the distributor driven off of the end of the cam, so it works in those. If the ignition is crank triggered then this test won't work.
Generally a disconnected vaccum line will raise the idle, and make the ECU hunt (idle goes between say 1200 and 1600 about once every couple of seconds). Go back and check all the electrical connections. This is where a code might help point you in the right direction.
*This is assuming that the ignition timing is driven off of the cams. I don't know this for sure. Civics have the distributor driven off of the end of the cam, so it works in those. If the ignition is crank triggered then this test won't work.
Generally a disconnected vaccum line will raise the idle, and make the ECU hunt (idle goes between say 1200 and 1600 about once every couple of seconds). Go back and check all the electrical connections. This is where a code might help point you in the right direction.
petec said:
Did you adjust the valves? You may have them too tight (not enough clearance).
You might want to check compression on each cylinder after you’ve ruled out all the easy stuff.
DanO
DanO
I had a similar situation several months ago. The car would idle fine but had not power. Turns out, I had the a valve to tight and it was stuck open. I put a timing light on the car and then checked the compression. I had 0 compression on 1 cylinder. Re-adjusted the valve and the rest is history. These same guys were involved in trouble shooting the problem....you are in good hands!!
Hi:
I had the same problem last year when I changed the timing belt and the water pump. I consulted Larry Bastanza. What a great guy. He sent me instructions and I related it to my mechanic. The car was running great once the timing belt was adjusted the right way. Please contact Larry as I have lost the instructions that he sent me. He has helped me on several issues and every time his suggestion worked. I think he has answered this post before me. Contact him for details and you will not be dissapointed.
Regards
I had the same problem last year when I changed the timing belt and the water pump. I consulted Larry Bastanza. What a great guy. He sent me instructions and I related it to my mechanic. The car was running great once the timing belt was adjusted the right way. Please contact Larry as I have lost the instructions that he sent me. He has helped me on several issues and every time his suggestion worked. I think he has answered this post before me. Contact him for details and you will not be dissapointed.
Regards
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