unbolt the rod caps & main & thrust , pull out the crank, get to the rod bearing.
Need Help! Oil Issue
- Thread starter MiamiMermaid
- Start date
Just a thought...did he use the crush washer when he changed the filter?
Oi - sorry to read this Mermi.
Dont forget that Devin is also in Michigan. He may be able to help.
Send a busted engine to him and get a FId engine back.
Good luck with it. Guess youre not coming to town tomorrow.
Dont forget that Devin is also in Michigan. He may be able to help.
Send a busted engine to him and get a FId engine back.
Good luck with it. Guess youre not coming to town tomorrow.
I was wondering the same thing? I am certain a fellow nsx owner would know to do that though.
This is a great reason to break the bank get a SOS stage 3 rebuild and a turbo! I'm sorry for you, i remember when i left my coolant cap loose and i saw that steam and dripping, i almost vomitted!!!!! good luck to you, you've got plenty of good resources here.
i second a rebuild, stroker for boost. :wink:
the crush washer does not make that much of a difference. Even with out one, if you apply factory torque, it wont leak.
Maybe the person tightened it with the finger and just forgot to wrench it shut. Happens all the time esp when you have 2 techs working on one car or someone is distracted by a buddy offering a beer :smile:
drain bolt is an item where it is better to over torque than under torque.
hope you get a good price. if you where local, we could rebuild to oem or stroke for a very reasonable price.
usual rebuild is around 20-25 hours with out crank repair. depending on the condition of the crank. If you need to resurface the crank and put in over sized bearings but it will cost money, less than buying a new crank tho.
I would take it to an independent NSX performnace shop recommended by other owners.
once again, good luck with your repairs. keep us posted.
the crush washer does not make that much of a difference. Even with out one, if you apply factory torque, it wont leak.
Maybe the person tightened it with the finger and just forgot to wrench it shut. Happens all the time esp when you have 2 techs working on one car or someone is distracted by a buddy offering a beer :smile:
drain bolt is an item where it is better to over torque than under torque.
hope you get a good price. if you where local, we could rebuild to oem or stroke for a very reasonable price.
usual rebuild is around 20-25 hours with out crank repair. depending on the condition of the crank. If you need to resurface the crank and put in over sized bearings but it will cost money, less than buying a new crank tho.
I would take it to an independent NSX performnace shop recommended by other owners.
once again, good luck with your repairs. keep us posted.
I would get it out of the dealership.
Here is another option........
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...ts/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/engine_refresh_program/
Here is another option........
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...ts/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/engine_refresh_program/
kinda pricy eh? 4.5G.
That is just a refesh, it will not included fixing the rod to bearing surface, repairing and polishing the rod journal on the crankshaft and lathing off the spun bearing. Thats extra labor and parts. Depending on how many you damaged, 4.5K will not be the end of it if you go the refresh... also the refresh is just that, its a refresh and not a fix damage engine. Also the cost of pulling the engine and shipping are hidden costs not mentioned in the 4500 refresh.
you can go two ways. Either you can rebuild your engine completely because you want to or you can just fix the crank and bearing at a much lower cost which will get your car to run as it did. Your engine did not sustain any damages besides the bearing and the crank, there is no reason to do a complete rebuild unless you want to do it. :smile:
That is just a refesh, it will not included fixing the rod to bearing surface, repairing and polishing the rod journal on the crankshaft and lathing off the spun bearing. Thats extra labor and parts. Depending on how many you damaged, 4.5K will not be the end of it if you go the refresh... also the refresh is just that, its a refresh and not a fix damage engine. Also the cost of pulling the engine and shipping are hidden costs not mentioned in the 4500 refresh.
you can go two ways. Either you can rebuild your engine completely because you want to or you can just fix the crank and bearing at a much lower cost which will get your car to run as it did. Your engine did not sustain any damages besides the bearing and the crank, there is no reason to do a complete rebuild unless you want to do it. :smile:
Soooo sorry to hear of your dire situation :frown: I think that the guy who did the oil change MUST help pay for your engine...Good God...he offerred to do the job...I am not greatly competent and I change my oil on my cadillac...but not my NSX...I know that sounds bad...but I cannot afford a mistake - like the one that unfortunatley happened to Miami...I jsut pray that something good comes out for you...I feel your pain and anguish...I am soooo sorry:frown:
Dam
Dam
Something just isn't adding up.
1) Why does the gauge show OK pressure if the oil light is on? Oil light goes on around 10psi or less
2) Did the oil actually come from the drain plug?
3) If the oil did leak from the drain plug, then there may not be any problems if most of it leaked out after the car was parked.
4) How was bearing damage confirmed? External oil pressure reading?
1) Why does the gauge show OK pressure if the oil light is on? Oil light goes on around 10psi or less
2) Did the oil actually come from the drain plug?
3) If the oil did leak from the drain plug, then there may not be any problems if most of it leaked out after the car was parked.
4) How was bearing damage confirmed? External oil pressure reading?
praying for the best.
"Turns out that the bolt wasn't tightened, ended up coming off, and losing all the oil."
(Did the drain plug come off?)
" Got a new filter, installed that, and provided more oil. "
(Or was it the filter that came off?) How much oil was lost?
How much did you have to add? How long was your initial drive?
Did it overheat?
The link I provided was more for the 'shop', rather than an engine refresh.
Things happen, anything mechanical can be repaired.
(Did the drain plug come off?)
" Got a new filter, installed that, and provided more oil. "
(Or was it the filter that came off?) How much oil was lost?
How much did you have to add? How long was your initial drive?
Did it overheat?
The link I provided was more for the 'shop', rather than an engine refresh.
Things happen, anything mechanical can be repaired.
Paul, what are you talking about.
I'm talking about a 96' black DX which I am fairly certain you never even saw. I starved that first 95K engine during cornering on AO48's. I swapped it and it ran like a champ... and eventually re-sold it to Eddie; after another overhaul and supercharger, it eventually went on to run a 1:29 at Portland, which means it went over 88mph at least twice a lap.
In general, I second Alan's position- unless they are just putting it on a skid to ship it to a builder or you found another short block and simply plan to swap.
NSX cranks are nitrite coated, you can't do a weld and lathe repair on them. The only option is a replacement crank if there is enough metal removed to fall out of spec. The good thing about the nitrite coating is it makes the surface so hard you can often has the surface polished and still keep the crank in service. That's why bearing halves are soft!
Investigate before you freak out. If it is all running, put a mechanical gauge in at the oil pressure switch, it will tell you the pressure at the mains. You should see at least 25 PSI at idle when warm, up to 90 PSI at 3500 RPM. If the pressure is low, or you can hear 'knocking' go to the next step.
You can do an in car bearing inspection by dropping the pan, then the oil galley. Pretty easy to pull a rod cap, check #4(middle front), it is the one I always find has scraped. Check end play on the trust bearing while you are there, before you remove the main cap. I think you can wiggle the #3 main cap off to if you want to check main bearings. I admit I have never checked mains with the motor in the car so I am not sure. There is no point in pulling the crank with the motor in the car, the clutch needs to be removed, which means you have to drop the tranny, so at that point the motor is half way out...
Look at the sludge in the bottom of the oil pan, scrape it out onto some white rags and look for metal sparkles in direct sun light. Also have your oil filter cut open, most rebuild shops will have an oil filter cutter. This will tell you what was run through the pump.
Sorry, I feel your pain as I'm in the same position :frown: but for different reasons. I posted my findings about the oiling and crank issues with the NSX and many people on this forum know that a few SECONDS of low oil pressure and your not just doing a rebuild but also looking for a good crank.
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86028
In the "For Sale" sec is a 3.2L crank a few days ago and I have a fresh set 3.2L ARP bolt and re-bushed rods to match for sale. This would make a stronger bottom end on a 3.0L.
Good luck :smile:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86028
In the "For Sale" sec is a 3.2L crank a few days ago and I have a fresh set 3.2L ARP bolt and re-bushed rods to match for sale. This would make a stronger bottom end on a 3.0L.
Good luck :smile:
Paul, what are you talking about.
My apologies John. I was being facetious but I'll be more careful...
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Honda is the only company in the world to nitrite coat their cranks? We got speciality shops here that specialize in speciality coating for race engines and race parts.
since the bearing is the softest part, if it is fused to the crank, you'll need to leathe it off to specs... unless you want to go at it with 100 grit.:smile:
Only option for some is a replacement crank, for other with connections you can do it right with out paying out the wazzooo for a new crank.
im not a big fan of welding the crank and latheing it back to spec. That is not what i had in mind. use the lathe to cut off the bearing and bring the crank to spec then polish it to service standards.
We are jabbering like this is the only problem. :wink: The crank could be so bummed that you need a new one.
Im curious as to what needs to be done with the car. With out disassemble, we are just playing guessing game.
Ron, I'm having a hard time sourcing "over sized bearings" for the NSX but your a Performance Shop so can I get them from you? Who is the manufacturer? and what over sizes do they come in?
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- 11 October 2006
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Porsche uses Nitrided cranks and they are repaired. Ollies is one of the shops that does them.
Nitriding is done at a low enough temperature that diminsional problems are greatly minimized. The metal does not get into the austenite range.
I had heard that oversized bearings were hard if not impossible to find
Nitriding is done at a low enough temperature that diminsional problems are greatly minimized. The metal does not get into the austenite range.
I had heard that oversized bearings were hard if not impossible to find
Nitrating the crank is not the only part of the fix to worry about when repairing that cranks. If the Rockwell hardness is not to the EXACT spec as the metal on the crank it will eat itself away very quickly. 6 yrs ago I had this happen. I sent my crank to a recommended shop and the work looked great. After a 10 min, run in the same bearing and rod eat itself away. Had to rebuild a Porsche motor twice in one mouth. The shop only refunded the money I paid for the work on the crank repair after I sent the crank to a outside lab to test the metals and found the hardness to be way to soft. But after another shop who was aware of what happened said send it to me I know what I am doing so I did, Now I have put over 50 race hours on that same crank.
Best of luck on whatever you need to do Just make sure the person doing the work knows what he is doing.
Best of luck on whatever you need to do Just make sure the person doing the work knows what he is doing.
how do you not put a drain plug back on right?!?!?!
thats gotta be the easiest maintance on a car.
did he not use a new crush washer??
thats gotta be the easiest maintance on a car.
did he not use a new crush washer??
- Joined
- 11 October 2006
- Messages
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As somone noted if you forget the crush washer and tighten the bolt you won't loose much oil. Maybe at a slow drip rate.
I changed my oil last night and decided to see haw much of an initial leak I'd get by not tightening the drain bolt. I spun the bolt in until it just touched the pan. Cleaned the area around the bolt and dried it. I then let the car down on the ground added a new filter and filled it with oil.
Started it up and watched the drain plug, right rear wheel off, for signs of dripping. I only saw a verrry slow drip. Let it idle while watching for ten minutes and the drip rate increased. I shut down the engine.
Jacked up the rear again put in a jackstand and checked the bolt. The bolt felt a touch looser. Now add in bumps on the street and higher rpm's and my guess is that it is going to come out.
Next time you change your oil back the bolt off 1/2 turn and feel how loose the threads are with the bolt still engaged.
Still hoping for the best for you Mermi.
I changed my oil last night and decided to see haw much of an initial leak I'd get by not tightening the drain bolt. I spun the bolt in until it just touched the pan. Cleaned the area around the bolt and dried it. I then let the car down on the ground added a new filter and filled it with oil.
Started it up and watched the drain plug, right rear wheel off, for signs of dripping. I only saw a verrry slow drip. Let it idle while watching for ten minutes and the drip rate increased. I shut down the engine.
Jacked up the rear again put in a jackstand and checked the bolt. The bolt felt a touch looser. Now add in bumps on the street and higher rpm's and my guess is that it is going to come out.
Next time you change your oil back the bolt off 1/2 turn and feel how loose the threads are with the bolt still engaged.
Still hoping for the best for you Mermi.
