My CarPC Install - Info, Pics, and RFC - Oh the Heat!
- Thread starter Joshs
- Start date
TURBO2GO said:
A tank circuit is a way to hookup a second battery to provide clean power during crank. I don't think a tank circuit is actually what you need - I should have said you would need an isolator.
The idea is for the pc to run off the 2nd battery, so that it never drains the primary battery, and you're never stuck with a dead car.
If you built a very low power system and used a deep cycle marine battery or something you may be able to get 10+ hours. To get more than that you'd probably need to base a system around some specialized devices that only did video capture, rather than using a full-blown computer.
Another alternative would be to have it connected to motion and other sensors, so it only powers up when it thinks there's something to see.
-Josh
You must be some techie genius! I don't even know how to upload photos. VERY cool pod. I'm trying to learn more though.
Minor update:
After driving back from Ashland (Oregon) to Los Angeles in a record heat 2 weeks ago (with no a/c!), I think I can safely say that I've tackled the overheating trunk PC issue. The 'secret' is a super high-flow delta fan, as mentioned earlier in this thread. CPU temps stay around 45c - much better than the 80c or more I've experienced in the past! In fact, I've restored the core voltage for the CPU from 1.2v back to its default around 1.5, to see if it still survives.
Interestingly enough, when I stopped for gas, after starting up again, the audio amp wouldn't power back on (although the PC did), presumably due to overheating. I figure that once I stopped moving, airflow ceased, allowing the heat to build up. After travelling down the road for a couple of minutes, I turned everything back on and all was fine.
While the carpc hasn't changed all that much lately, for completeness I might as well mention a few things not listed thus far in this thread. Probably the coolest is the ValentineOne USB adapter (V1VD) that blanks out my V1 unit by connecting to the remote display port, and displays a pop-up HUD on my NavPod (talked about in some other threads). Configurable audio alerts are played through the PC's sound card and out the main speaker system, but I find the audio from the V1 unit is easier to hear, dynamically adjust, and more 'alerting'.
I finally got around to putting some vinyl on the particle board covering the PC so the install looks a bit cleaner. I think carpet would look better, but I used what I had laying around. I've got an extra Acura logo (think newer center tail-light), which I think might look interesting on the panel. I also think my 2 channel RF amp should be changed to a 4 channel amp with a smaller footprint.
I installed an external slot-loading DVD-R drive into the pocket of a JDM Map holder (the top pouch holds the beefy service manual), powered off the inverter located under the driver's seat (manually switched on). I ran a seperate 5V line to the 7-port cabin-mounted USB hub to reduce device disconnection issues (there are still some occasionally, fixed with a quick reboot). The hub is tucked inside the crevice in the panel behind the driver's left side - there's an amazing amount of space there! I hardly use the DVD drive but I figured it's good to have optical capabilities. The momentary switch that used to control the garage door opener is now connected to the power-switch of the PC, to enable manual power control of the PC during flight (it sucks to have to pull over and go into the trunk to reboot!). In theory this 5v line could power the DVD drive as well, but I'm ok having it manually switched for now.
I keep a flexible ps/2 keyboard stuffed behind one of the trunk panels, just in case something goes wrong, since neither the USB or Bluetooth keyboards work during Windows' pre-gui bootup.
I'm not sure what else to do at this point, but that's probably just as well.. I'm awaiting the new zero-loss Zetoolman sub to replace my dope 10" original Z, as well as eagerly anticipating fixing my A/C and installing the white 02+ wheels I bought from Vance
-Josh
After driving back from Ashland (Oregon) to Los Angeles in a record heat 2 weeks ago (with no a/c!), I think I can safely say that I've tackled the overheating trunk PC issue. The 'secret' is a super high-flow delta fan, as mentioned earlier in this thread. CPU temps stay around 45c - much better than the 80c or more I've experienced in the past! In fact, I've restored the core voltage for the CPU from 1.2v back to its default around 1.5, to see if it still survives.
Interestingly enough, when I stopped for gas, after starting up again, the audio amp wouldn't power back on (although the PC did), presumably due to overheating. I figure that once I stopped moving, airflow ceased, allowing the heat to build up. After travelling down the road for a couple of minutes, I turned everything back on and all was fine.
While the carpc hasn't changed all that much lately, for completeness I might as well mention a few things not listed thus far in this thread. Probably the coolest is the ValentineOne USB adapter (V1VD) that blanks out my V1 unit by connecting to the remote display port, and displays a pop-up HUD on my NavPod (talked about in some other threads). Configurable audio alerts are played through the PC's sound card and out the main speaker system, but I find the audio from the V1 unit is easier to hear, dynamically adjust, and more 'alerting'.
I finally got around to putting some vinyl on the particle board covering the PC so the install looks a bit cleaner. I think carpet would look better, but I used what I had laying around. I've got an extra Acura logo (think newer center tail-light), which I think might look interesting on the panel. I also think my 2 channel RF amp should be changed to a 4 channel amp with a smaller footprint.
I installed an external slot-loading DVD-R drive into the pocket of a JDM Map holder (the top pouch holds the beefy service manual), powered off the inverter located under the driver's seat (manually switched on). I ran a seperate 5V line to the 7-port cabin-mounted USB hub to reduce device disconnection issues (there are still some occasionally, fixed with a quick reboot). The hub is tucked inside the crevice in the panel behind the driver's left side - there's an amazing amount of space there! I hardly use the DVD drive but I figured it's good to have optical capabilities. The momentary switch that used to control the garage door opener is now connected to the power-switch of the PC, to enable manual power control of the PC during flight (it sucks to have to pull over and go into the trunk to reboot!). In theory this 5v line could power the DVD drive as well, but I'm ok having it manually switched for now.
I keep a flexible ps/2 keyboard stuffed behind one of the trunk panels, just in case something goes wrong, since neither the USB or Bluetooth keyboards work during Windows' pre-gui bootup.
I'm not sure what else to do at this point, but that's probably just as well.. I'm awaiting the new zero-loss Zetoolman sub to replace my dope 10" original Z, as well as eagerly anticipating fixing my A/C and installing the white 02+ wheels I bought from Vance
-Josh
There is going to be a post on this thread where he tells us that "HAL" won't open his doors...
The newly announced UMPCs (Ultra Mobile PC) have just made installations like this obsolete. It is a cool install though
Best Buy sells the Samsung unit.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=pcmcat89200050032&type=category&DCMP=rdr0000276
Best Buy sells the Samsung unit.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=pcmcat89200050032&type=category&DCMP=rdr0000276
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Hugh said:The newly announced UMPCs (Ultra Mobile PC) have just made installations like this obsolete. It is a cool install though
Best Buy sells the Samsung unit.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=pcmcat89200050032&type=category&DCMP=rdr0000276
Good luck fitting that sucker nicely into the NavPod.
When I first saw the new Sony UX series, I thought that it might work well mounted to a Panavise.. Ignoring the fact that they are more expensive, less expandable, and less powerful - the required exposed cable mess would be an issue, and its visibility could increase the chances of a smash and grab. I like the slide-out keyboard on the sony, relative small form factor (haven't seen one in person yet though), and built-in edge would be nifty of course!
http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INT...age_UX_Micro_PC&ref=http://sony.com/index.php
Really, these UMPC's are essentially powerful, slightly larger PDAs - still cool tho - I want one!! Instead of using a UMPC, if you wanted an all-in-one pre-built PC I'd suggest using something like a mac-mini (or the Mocha PC I started this ridiculous endeavor with), then you can still use a screen in the navpod, and keep the PC itself tucked away neatly. Of course, you could use an external screen with the Sony UX, but then why bother paying all that extra cashola for the embedded screen?
Oh yeah, and in California having 'screens capable of displaying video' in the front seat is illegal! This would cover Laptops, PDA,s UMPCs, Cell Phones, etc... By retaining the OEM look I can maintain a relatively low profile. I haven't had to test that one out yet though, since I've yet to be pulled over in it - although I've had plenty of officers drive by without a problem.
I also learned recently that suction mounts (a-la V1, TomTom, etc) are illegal in California! Whoops!
Mr.Wolf-Spokane said:
I've thought about that issue, and mitigated Hal's potential to lock me out but installing a manual release so I can access his circuit boards and destroy him if necessary:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65844
-Josh
Josh, What software are you using for your mp3 library? I have a PC in my car and lurk on MP3car.com. The offerings there all seem to have buggy issues and I am looking for a fast loading application. Also the V1 accessory is new to me, heard anything about a similar app for passport 8500?
Thanks in advance.
woody
BTW, I have xenarc miniPC with P4 in the glovebox(size of cigarette carton) with no overheating issues. It doesnt even fill the glovebox.
http://xenarc.com/product/mp-sc3.html
Thanks in advance.
woody
BTW, I have xenarc miniPC with P4 in the glovebox(size of cigarette carton) with no overheating issues. It doesnt even fill the glovebox.
http://xenarc.com/product/mp-sc3.html
WOODY said:
I use Centrafuse 1.7 (XLE RC1), which just came out in the last week or so. Many bugs have been worked out, and this version seems to work pretty well so far. It's fast enough on my athlon64, but when using a Via 1.3Ghz processor (on an older version of the software) , things were a bit slow. I'd imagine you should be just fine with your p4 though. Since I use hibernate I'm loaded or shutdown in a matter of seconds, maybe 15-25 (I'll try to time it next time).
I haven't heard about any similar USB adaptors for the Passport (or any other radar detector, for that matter). Without the arrows and bogey counters (unless you're looking for logging, collusion, and Nav POI creation), I'm not sure that you'd even need a HUD, but since I haven't used a Passport before I may be wrong. Or you could 'externalize' the LED's, but that could be more trouble than it's worth.
The glovebox is certainly a good option for a small all-in-one pc like your xenarc (or a mini, cappucino, etc). Like you, I never had overheating issues with the Mocha in the glovebox. Cable runs are shorter, so that's a plus too. I mostly got tired of the clutter in the glovebox, but opened up a big can of worms by relocating the install to the trunk.
-Josh
The current choices of hardware are limited but I'm sure that a unit can be properly dissected so the screen fits inside the pod and the peripheral connections can be custom mounted on the side of it. With the Bluetooth capabilites using a keyboard and other input devices will be nice and neat.
I'm in no rush yet, I need a PC in my car like I need another colostomy.
Is everything illegal in California? Damn, people have more freedom in Beirut.
I'm in no rush yet, I need a PC in my car like I need another colostomy.
Is everything illegal in California? Damn, people have more freedom in Beirut.
I just saw an amp style car pc at my friends shop. He's going to put it in his Chrysler 300. When I saw it I thought of this thread and how much of a size difference it made. He also is ordering a joystick style mouse and an IR remote. Looked pretty cool.
Veleno said:
The 'Ampie' enclosure is nice looking and pretty compact! It does force you to use mini-itx, and has no space for PCI slots (pcmcia only), but that should be just fine for most applications. I'd be worried about airflow and heat dissipation, since there's not much room for a super fan inside the case. But if you mount it in the cabin then heat won't be an issue. I considered it when it came out last year, but decided to stick to the mini-atx platform, since it's small enough for the space in the trunk, and mini-itx boards are generally more expensive than mini-atx.
more info here:
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=52755
-Josh
Hugh said:
I'm sure it can be done with the right UMPC, but if you have to disassemble it, fab custom peripheral extensions, deal with large bezels and side mounted peripheral etc.. then that doesn't really seem simpler than a SFF pc with an external touchscreen, so what's the point of using a UMPC?
Bluetooth is good enough for keyboards and mice, but you wouldn't want to use it for other stuff like GPS, video capture, audio out, etc. So you're still stuck with a bunch of usb cables somehow plugged into the sides of the UMPC, either tucked into the Pod or stuck to the side (not very clean looking IMO). I still think that if you go the UMPC route then its best to treat it like a pda and just mount it on it's own without the navpod. Then you can more easily bring it with you and use it outside of the car.
I'll repeat - I do think that the UMPC is a good solution for a carpc! But it's probably not the best choice if you're going to use a NavPod.
Hugh said:
I think I can see a CarPC on your todo list right under a CTSC
-Josh
Could you place it in between the firewall trim and the firewall? like with this PC: http://www.cappuccinopc.com/lt-5000.asp
AdnanVCS said:
Space back there is really tight, as it's already full of lots of modules and relays. However, you may be able to squeeze a walkman-sized PC like the Cappuccino in the center-rear speaker's location, but it'd be a tight fight if any at all.
-Josh
Could you list all the parts u used (like keyboard, monitor, etc)?
sorry to bring an old thread back.
i just purchased the aurilium for my car pc setup and was wondering how you externalized the knob. did u desolder the volume knob and just extended the wires?
i just purchased the aurilium for my car pc setup and was wondering how you externalized the knob. did u desolder the volume knob and just extended the wires?
Yep! I just desoldered the knob, then ran 3 wires out the hole in the front where the knob used to be. I attached a fan-type 3 pin power connector to those wires so the Aurillium could be detached easily. Then I ran three wires up to the cabin, and attached them to the original knob (again using a 3 pin connector for easy disconnect). Pretty simple! You can see the silver knob in my coin tray in a picture above.
I took some pictures for ya since it's easy to remove. Note the hot glue on the wires to keep them from pulling off.
-Josh
I moved my amp into the tool tray space, along with the crossovers for my speakers. I cut a piece of MDF to shape to attach the devices to. This cleaned up the trunk quite a lot, and gave me more space. Heat on the amp hasn't been much of an issue thus far, since the PC is much more sensitive and generally would fail first.
However, I have decided that trunk heat in the NSX is too great an issue for the PC. Even a high-flow fan coupled with a low power system is no match for a black trunk sitting for hours in the hot hot sun. I want the system to be as reliable as possible, which means the system must work under realistic operating conditions. That includes hot days! The heat wave we had a couple weeks ago has motivated me to pull the entire PC system and try anew.
New thread : http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94393
-Josh
However, I have decided that trunk heat in the NSX is too great an issue for the PC. Even a high-flow fan coupled with a low power system is no match for a black trunk sitting for hours in the hot hot sun. I want the system to be as reliable as possible, which means the system must work under realistic operating conditions. That includes hot days! The heat wave we had a couple weeks ago has motivated me to pull the entire PC system and try anew.
New thread : http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94393
-Josh
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