My 2000 NSX with SOS built motor and OBD II twin turbo set up.

Dave,

yes i have cats in the system. I have yet to see if i can pass emissions. I passed with no recalibration at all with my bbsc (600cc injectors).

And yes the graphs are impressive.. the power is prodigious and plentiful... I will point out for the record that if you are budget minded, the BBSC is still by far the cheapest way to hit 500 HP. Do i regret the change? Not at all.
 
so far its you and Hugh who post on prime, please give updates as the months pass and give us your mileage driven with this system.:smile:
 
Ok guys as a 2 month update..

I think i have 74300ish miles on the odo. It's maybe 1500 miles of SOS TT Bonerific driving.

I'm getting about 16.5-17mpg.. and that is with a very heavy foot. I'd guess 20mpg with the light foot.

Car starts every time, so far with temp ranges of 110F-65F. All electrical systems work as OEM.

I actually rarely use high boost mode. too damn scary. usually just when a bike pulls onto freeway, like the R6 i pulled on from 30-120.

One new thing is SOS installed some doohicky to drop my VTEC engagement from 5800 to 4300. I picked up 25tq/20hp throughout that range from that. Impressive, but it did cost me $400 in a retune to take advantage of it.

The AEM serial gauges (see photo i attached a few posts up) are awesome.

If I do a 2-3-4 full pull, my intake temps in low boost jump about 20 degrees over ambient. In high boost mode it jumps maybe 40F.

Just finished my first track event, about 65 miles at Firebird. Car was kick ass.

PS i have the 6 puck clutch, and what a pain in the ass.
 
.......One new thing is SOS installed some doohicky to drop my VTEC engagement from 5800 to 4300. I picked up 25tq/20hp throughout that range from that. Impressive, but it did cost me $400 in a retune to take advantage of it........

I like to learn more about this doohicky that makes VTEC kick in halfway to redline...
 
Ok guys as a 2 month update..

I think i have 74300ish miles on the odo. It's maybe 1500 miles of SOS TT Bonerific driving.

I'm getting about 16.5-17mpg.. and that is with a very heavy foot. I'd guess 20mpg with the light foot.

Car starts every time, so far with temp ranges of 110F-65F. All electrical systems work as OEM.

I actually rarely use high boost mode. too damn scary. usually just when a bike pulls onto freeway, like the R6 i pulled on from 30-120.

One new thing is SOS installed some doohicky to drop my VTEC engagement from 5800 to 4300. I picked up 25tq/20hp throughout that range from that. Impressive, but it did cost me $400 in a retune to take advantage of it.

The AEM serial gauges (see photo i attached a few posts up) are awesome.

If I do a 2-3-4 full pull, my intake temps in low boost jump about 20 degrees over ambient. In high boost mode it jumps maybe 40F.

Just finished my first track event, about 65 miles at Firebird. Car was kick ass.

PS i have the 6 puck clutch, and what a pain in the ass.

Thanks for the review Gerry!

cheers,
-- Chris
 
There's no dohicky. It's a feature we've incorporated in to the production engine management system.

cheers,
-- Chris
Chris:
Could you explain more? Does SOS automatically lower VTEC with the install of a new engine management system?
thanks,
-bruce
 
Ok guys as a 2 month update..

I think i have 74300ish miles on the odo. It's maybe 1500 miles of SOS TT Bonerific driving.

I'm getting about 16.5-17mpg.. and that is with a very heavy foot. I'd guess 20mpg with the light foot.

Car starts every time, so far with temp ranges of 110F-65F. All electrical systems work as OEM.

I actually rarely use high boost mode. too damn scary. usually just when a bike pulls onto freeway, like the R6 i pulled on from 30-120.

One new thing is SOS installed some doohicky to drop my VTEC engagement from 5800 to 4300. I picked up 25tq/20hp throughout that range from that. Impressive, but it did cost me $400 in a retune to take advantage of it.

The AEM serial gauges (see photo i attached a few posts up) are awesome.

If I do a 2-3-4 full pull, my intake temps in low boost jump about 20 degrees over ambient. In high boost mode it jumps maybe 40F.

Just finished my first track event, about 65 miles at Firebird. Car was kick ass.

PS i have the 6 puck clutch, and what a pain in the ass.
What type of issues are you having with the clutch?
 
Seems like a lot of people are having clutch issues with High HP cars. Bob, how is yours doing?
 
My sport clutch single disc is fine and has the same clutch feel as stock. I have never done a hole shot so it hasn't been abused at all.

yeah i had the sport single disk from SOS. it was great. just like stock. That wouldn't hold the power, however. c'est la vive.
 
Seems like a lot of people are having clutch issues with High HP cars. Bob, how is yours doing?

I don't think Gerry's saying there is an issue - he's commenting that the engagement of the 6 puck disc is not as smooth as the standard full face.

One must understand several things when deciding to double the amount of power that the car produces from the factory.

torque capacity of the clutch can only be increased by:
1. increasing surface area
2. increasing friction
3. increasing clamp load

The NSX transmission, including the clutch bell housing, is designed for a car producing 270-290 horsepower. Other factory clutches in cars designed by the factory for much higher horsepower have larger transmission bell housings to accommodate larger clutches.

A clutch designed for increased torque is limited to the modifications above. Since the bell housing can not grow in diameter or length, surface area increase is limited. Our standard Sport clutch offers the absolute maximum diameter clutch disc that we can shove in the NSX bell housing. We feel that the clamp load of our clutch should not be increased as to not have a negative impact on clutch pedal effort, or engine thrust bearing wear. Thus, we're limited to increasing torque mostly by increasing friction (which is the way that the "puck sport" is able to increase torque capacity by 50 lb/ft). In addition to the puck sport clutch, we offer the billet twin carbon clutch that has increased static friction and increased surface to increase torque capacity even more. By using exotic materials, this clutch is able to handle significant increases in power while offering a comparatively smooth engagement. However, even this clutch is in no way comparable to a factory "stock like" clutch.

Due to these limitations, one must realize that there are some compromises if you want to double the power the car was designed for from the factory. One of them being that if you are retaining the factory transmission, you're going to be limited to a clutch that can fit in to the factory transmission and the limitations in design that it presents.

That being said, the clutches we offer compared to anything else on the market of the same torque capacity, offers a MUCH smoother engagement.

-- Chris
 
That is correct. there is no issue with the function of the clutch. I just prefer the smooth stock engagement of the stock clutch. I will suffer happily if it means i can put down 600 rwhp. If the alternative is to drop my power level.. no thanks!


I don't think Gerry's saying there is an issue - he's commenting that the engagement of the 6 puck disc is not as smooth as the standard full face.

One must understand several things when deciding to double the amount of power that the car produces from the factory.

torque capacity of the clutch can only be increased by:
1. increasing surface area
2. increasing friction
3. increasing clamp load

The NSX transmission, including the clutch bell housing, is designed for a car producing 270-290 horsepower. Other factory clutches in cars designed by the factory for much higher horsepower have larger transmission bell housings to accommodate larger clutches.

A clutch designed for increased torque is limited to the modifications above. Since the bell housing can not grow in diameter or length, surface area increase is limited. Our standard Sport clutch offers the absolute maximum diameter clutch disc that we can shove in the NSX bell housing. We feel that the clamp load of our clutch should not be increased as to not have a negative impact on clutch pedal effort, or engine thrust bearing wear. Thus, we're limited to increasing torque mostly by increasing friction (which is the way that the "puck sport" is able to increase torque capacity by 50 lb/ft). In addition to the puck sport clutch, we offer the billet twin carbon clutch that has increased static friction and increased surface to increase torque capacity even more. By using exotic materials, this clutch is able to handle significant increases in power while offering a comparatively smooth engagement. However, even this clutch is in no way comparable to a factory "stock like" clutch.

Due to these limitations, one must realize that there are some compromises if you want to double the power the car was designed for from the factory. One of them being that if you are retaining the factory transmission, you're going to be limited to a clutch that can fit in to the factory transmission and the limitations in design that it presents.

That being said, the clutches we offer compared to anything else on the market of the same torque capacity, offers a MUCH smoother engagement.

-- Chris
 
as a minor addendum, started car up at 45 degrees F, no problemo. I've heard of issues with AEM cold starts.... so far so good.
 
Well guys time for me to chime in.

I just drove home from Tempe to Sarasota, Florida (GO Gators!) with my new twins, sport clutch, and endure-lite exhaust and I couldn't be happier with the performance. Some stats...

Now 411 RWHP and 325 ft/lb torque. It hits the boost around 3500 rpm and just jumps at that point. Really, really, really easy to hit redline in first if you're not watching.

I had starts at below freezing with no problem and it ran nicely at 10,000 ft of altitude. Couldn't get any real revs here due to ice on the road and that not being conducive to any sort of sport driving.

My mileage actually INCREASED on the road. I'm now getting 24 mpg vs the 22 I used to get. Most of the ride was within 10 of the posted limit but there were forays of... well maybe 50 or 60 over on really empty roads between Albuquerque and Dallas.

Nicest road of the trip was just outside of Tempe going north where I realized I wanted to hit red lights. Why you might ask? Because I could accelerate and THAT's where the fun is!
 
I'm at about 75k miles.. 2500 on SOS tt system? Car still kicking ass and taking names. Some minor tuning quirks are long gone, and car is at this point basically driving like stock, but ridiculously fast.

I think to pass emissions I'd have to swap back to stock injectors.. I think that's 2 hrs of labor. Fortunately I'm registered where there is no emission issue. Even if i did have to switch injectors... 2 hrs of labor every 2 years? whoop dee doo.

As it stands, I'm 100% (not even 99%) satisfied. The car is faster than my 620 rwhp/600rwtq FGT. Well. Until friday. :biggrin:
 
I'm at about 75k miles.. 2500 on SOS tt system? Car still kicking ass and taking names. Some minor tuning quirks are long gone, and car is at this point basically driving like stock, but ridiculously fast.

I think to pass emissions I'd have to swap back to stock injectors.. I think that's 2 hrs of labor. Fortunately I'm registered where there is no emission issue. Even if i did have to switch injectors... 2 hrs of labor every 2 years? whoop dee doo.

As it stands, I'm 100% (not even 99%) satisfied. The car is faster than my 620 rwhp/600rwtq FGT. Well. Until friday. :biggrin:

OH OH what is getting done to the FGT? It probably needs 750-800 to compete with the NSX.:tongue:
 
teehee.

if you're a technically oriented kind of guy... pV=nRT ought to sound familiar.

well, "p" is way up at this point. :smile: Although that probably means "T" is as well :mad:

You could go to bigger injectors and e-85 with this you can run more p, more n, and have the T affect the end result less.
 
You could go to bigger injectors and e-85 with this you can run more p, more n, and have the T affect the end result less.


Error 404

Bigger Injectors not found
Stock fuel system good beyond 850 RWHP if turbo, 800 rwhp if SC
E85--- See above explanation


If you plug the actual equation into a calculator, the end result is usually a smiley face as it pertains to my butt dyno.
 
Back
Top