Motor mounts

Not trying to knock anyone's methods, but this is a tried and true method that almost all car forums use to DIY repair worn mounts.

You can pick up the Polyurethane from any local hardware store like Lowes, etc for around $4-6. One tube is sufficient to do all the mounts. (You'll need a caulking gun as well, if you don't already have one - additional $2-3)

If you want to make it more aesthetically pleasing, then you can certainly use washers to make the PU look nicer once it sets, otherwise you can simply tape up one end and fill it. (Once it sets you can use a razor blade to cut off the excess and/or make it look nicer/smoother) Additional cost of washers would probably be less than $10.

I apologize for the poor quality of these pics, as this was done during a clutch job, so no actual DIY was planned for repairing mounts. Thus I do not have "finished" pic of the final result:

DSC00551.JPG

DSC00552.JPG


We simply taped off one end and applied the PU. We used a razor blade after it set to cut off the excess PU and make it look nice and flat.

HTH!

More NSX DIY's here:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php

Someone should try that with my end plates...Flexane is stupid expensive! I tried Silicone rubber and it cracked out in about a year, that is what lead me to the urethane! How does the polyurethane hold up over time?
 
then there are 3 mounts that can be worked up after all.... you only quoted me the 2 kits, one for each mount.... which are the 3rd???

Thanks,
Nuno

You could fill the one on top of the tranny if you wanted, the kit will work of that one too.

I only recommend doing 2, the front one hanging between the motor/ tranny and the front support member, and the rear most tranny mount that goes between the tranny and the rear suspension beam.

Dave
 
ok... then forget what i asked about it in my last PM :wink:

You could fill the one on top of the tranny if you wanted, the kit will work of that one too.

I only recommend doing 2, the front one hanging between the motor/ tranny and the front support member, and the rear most tranny mount that goes between the tranny and the rear suspension beam.

Dave
 
It looks like a generic shore A 94 durometer "flexane equivalent" version is slightly cheaper from McMaster:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8644k11/=n5a33

I actually used the 3M window Weld which is around 100 durometer from comparisons I've seen, but Ti Dave's setup with the plates and spacers is by far the way to go.

One important note when you use any of these:
You shouldn't drive on them for almost a week to allow them to fully cure. Or, you can shorten the time to a day if you cure at 200F in a small oven.
 
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