Motor mounts

tape one side up.

then get a tube of window sealant and fill the void. let it dry for a few days and your done.
 
Ken,
The window seal/caulking will last for a while then crack out. Firm Urethane works much better, if you use primer, the Urethane actually bonds to the rubber.

I made a kit with aluminum plates and spacers that press onto the shaft ends of the motor mount and have holes to help the urethane to bond.

Here are the plates installed and ready to pour, just need to hold the mount in a vice so it is level, tape the back side with masking tape, mix the urethane and pour it full. Takes about 4 hours for the urethane to completely harden.

The parts are $20 a set if you want some, or I will do the complete job for $80 each, $150 for 2 of them.

Dave
 

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you lost me here... :tongue::tongue::tongue:

what i understood was:

$20 for parts for each motor mount (2 aluminium plates and 2 rings)
$80 for parts for each motor mount and you fill up the urethane
$150 as above but for 2 motor mounts

is this correct?:biggrin:

Thanks,
Nuno

PS - If it is, then i'll buy a set of parts for each motor mount. Can your plates be installed on all 4 motor mounts?




The parts are $20 a set if you want some, or I will do the complete job for $80 each, $150 for 2 of them.

Dave
 
..Same here need some clarifications.

Basically, if I send you all my motor mounts, how much $$/mount before you send them all back?

Also, what material/brand are you using? I hear that there are different levels...
 
Wow, that would be a very good deal, but I couldn't afford the downtime as this is my daily-driver. Do you offer an exchange service for the two lower mounts :redface:

I've been searching for a good two-part urethane to use with the right durometer, but haven't found any reasonably priced. If you don't offer an exchange service and one purchases your plates, would you let them know what urethane and where to buy it please?

Thanks,
Dave
 
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you lost me here... :tongue::tongue::tongue:

what i understood was:

$20 for parts for each motor mount (2 aluminium plates and 2 rings)
$80 for parts for each motor mount and you fill up the urethane
$150 as above but for 2 motor mounts

is this correct?:biggrin:

Thanks,
Nuno

PS - If it is, then i'll buy a set of parts for each motor mount. Can your plates be installed on all 4 motor mounts?
Yes, you get a $100 discount if I can do 2 at once. The urethane is easier to mix in the quantity for 2 and I have the same amount of waste as doing 1.

These should fit on the top transmission mount too. I only see a need for the front and rear mount to be hardened, so that is what I have focused on.
 
Wow, that would be a very good deal, but I couldn't afford the downtime as this is my daily-driver. Do you offer an exchange service for the two lower mounts :redface:

I've been searching for a good two-part urethane to use with the right durometer, but haven't found any reasonably priced. If you don't offer an exchange service and one purchases your plates, would you let them know what urethane and where to buy it please?

Thanks,
Dave

I don't have spares right now, I can do cracked mounts and they work fine, good place to use the junk ones sitting in your garage...LMK if anyone wants to donate a donor set for exchanges:biggrin:

I use Devcon 'Flexane 94, rigid castable rubber', I buy it from MSC, takes about 1.3-1.5 lb per mount.
 
..Same here need some clarifications.

Basically, if I send you all my motor mounts, how much $$/mount before you send them all back?

Also, what material/brand are you using? I hear that there are different levels...

Turn around is 2-3 days, I have everything in stock and ready to go.

This is not designed for the motor mount by the timing belt end of the motor.
 
i got mine from NAPA.

i found the part number on some honda forum.

TiDave, those mounds look smoking! great job.
 
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stiffens up the motor, more vibration at idle.

the holes are there to isolate vibration. cant have the best of both world.
 
How's the vibration after doing this little mod?

I don't really notice that much difference as long as you only do the 2 mounts.

I must say my car is already a bit on the harsh side(full mono-ball suspension) so I am a bit jaded and may not be the best judge...:rolleyes:
 
I don't really notice that much difference as long as you only do the 2 mounts.

I must say my car is already a bit on the harsh side(full mono-ball suspension) so I am a bit jaded and may not be the best judge...:rolleyes:

it really isnt that bad. if your car's motor mounts are fine, just leave it alone.

You wont need to modify your mm unless your making serious power and need it to prevent your engine from shifting around under acceleration.
 
This is not designed for the motor mount by the timing belt end of the motor.

Exactly. That one is a solid cast part. Mine failed last month. I probably drove about 1,000 miles before figuring out what the new noise was coming from the back. Silly me! Had I opened the rear hatch I would have immediately seen the motor sagging down on the passenger side. The bottom of the oil filter sitting on the aluminum cross member thingie should have been a another clue. The final clue was "why is half your A/C belt missing Hugh?" LOL, when the engine fell down the alternator belt did a guillotine routine on the A/C belt since it stayed in place. No harm, no foul, nothing to replace except for one belt, one mount and 2 bolts. Say hello to another 100,000 miles of trouble free motoring. :)

Granted I have 229,000 miles on my car but it wouldn't hurt to keep one of two of these as spares if you plan to keep your car for a while.
 
I had one of my engineers draw this up so we could cut them on our plasma. I did this one on Friday.

Fancy Ken!

I ended up with the 4 holes on mine so I can be sure all the air bubbles get out when I am filling them, plus I don't need to cut out all the stock rubber. The stock rubber makes separate chambers which are hard to fill through a single hole, I have tried...

Make sure to make the spacers for the ends of the center shaft, if you don't there is a load which pushes the end plates off over time. I opted to make my plates smaller, it was too hard to seal the edge of the plate when filling them on the outside edge, much easier to seal them on the face of the outer casing.

I gotta' get one of those plasmas...:rolleyes:, show off:tongue:
 
3 second instructions:

Some of you have been buying these kits, here is the simple set of instructions that should help you, or make it so you understand why I charge $60 labor to do this work...

Clean everything, you want all the oil and dirt off the mount and rubber section. I use a die grinder to clean the rubber, then use urethane primer to get a better bond.

Press the plates on the end of the motor mount, use the tubing spacers to push them home, even with the ends of the center shaft of the mount.

Tape off the bottom side, cover holes and seal the tape tightly against the outer casting. Hold the mount on it's side, I use a vice. Mix the urethane as per manufacture's instructions, pour into the cavity. Pour through one hole to start with and let the urethane flow up into the center voids, top off through all the holes.

Let urethane harden per manufactures instructions.

Dave
 
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Dave,

as i told you, i'm very interested in a set (for both mounts)... i'll have my mechanics do the job, to short the downtime... only one question... can you send me the urethane also?? of so, how much??



Thanks,
Nuno
 
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Dave,

as i told you, i'm very interested in a set (for both mounts)... i'll have my mechanics do the job, to short the downtime... only one question... can you send me the urethane also?? of so, how much??



Thanks,
Nuno
PM sent with pricing...
 
Not trying to knock anyone's methods, but this is a tried and true method that almost all car forums use to DIY repair worn mounts.

You can pick up the Polyurethane from any local hardware store like Lowes, etc for around $4-6. One tube is sufficient to do all the mounts. (You'll need a caulking gun as well, if you don't already have one - additional $2-3)

If you want to make it more aesthetically pleasing, then you can certainly use washers to make the PU look nicer once it sets, otherwise you can simply tape up one end and fill it. (Once it sets you can use a razor blade to cut off the excess and/or make it look nicer/smoother) Additional cost of washers would probably be less than $10.

I apologize for the poor quality of these pics, as this was done during a clutch job, so no actual DIY was planned for repairing mounts. Thus I do not have "finished" pic of the final result:

DSC00551.JPG

DSC00552.JPG


We simply taped off one end and applied the PU. We used a razor blade after it set to cut off the excess PU and make it look nice and flat.

HTH!

More NSX DIY's here:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php
 
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