Most expensive car wax.
- Thread starter Jin1976
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Thanks for the link.
Well, just to give my two cents (as usual :wink
:
1. Washing the car in full sunlight is an nightmare for the paint!
2. I guess he's using stuff like this http://www.swissol.com/E/AUS/Produkte_Lack3.htm
The Divine wax is specially mixed by Mr. Anwander (I spoke to him once when I bought this stuff) here in Switzerland to match the needs of the specific painting whatever car it is.
I'm using the Mystery wax of their line. :wink:
3. Watching the guy applying the pretreating coat and the wax itself looks like he's an amateur in using Swizöl products. :tongue:
You'll get less than half of the effect by just wiping it on/off. You need time for this stuff, time, very much time, not less than 10 hours. But then the result is not of this world and can only be seen in person. You'll never catch that shine with whatever camera is used.
Well, just to give my two cents (as usual :wink
: 1. Washing the car in full sunlight is an nightmare for the paint!
2. I guess he's using stuff like this http://www.swissol.com/E/AUS/Produkte_Lack3.htm
The Divine wax is specially mixed by Mr. Anwander (I spoke to him once when I bought this stuff) here in Switzerland to match the needs of the specific painting whatever car it is.
I'm using the Mystery wax of their line. :wink:
3. Watching the guy applying the pretreating coat and the wax itself looks like he's an amateur in using Swizöl products. :tongue:
You'll get less than half of the effect by just wiping it on/off. You need time for this stuff, time, very much time, not less than 10 hours. But then the result is not of this world and can only be seen in person. You'll never catch that shine with whatever camera is used.
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It's actually Zymol Royale Glaze which retails for over $7k USD. Paul also uses P21s for his wheels and pre-wash treatment.
3. Watching the guy applying the pretreating coat and the wax itself looks like he's an amateur in using Swizöl products. :tongue:
Paul Dalton is far from an amateur when it comes to detailing. He's argued to be the best detailer in the world. His top package can take up to 64 hours...
From his website:
Pinnacle Miracle Detail
The ultimate detail for the ultimate luxury and performance cars. With 61 stages (including paint correction) and approximately 64 hours of Paul's time and expertise, this detail is arguably the finest, most comprehensive and most expensive in the world...
You're just catching a glimpse of what he's really doing in the video.
This video is actually pretty dated as you can see the inflation of the price of the wax from the time of the video to now ($6k -> $7k+)
George
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Ok, he must have a good marketing strategy.
No professional ever washes the cars in direct sunlight orelse he's no professional.
It doesn't make sense to remove 0.005 % of the dirty by rubbing on the paint with a claybar and wonder yourself that there are quite a few scratches, presumably most of them by the dirt that stick in the claybar. And then he wonders about the fine scratches which you have to polish anyway. So the claybar-step is nonsense. It only makes sense if you have some SPOTS with resistive dirt but you're fingernail does that better.
It looks very impressive and professional to use high-tech equippement to measure the glance. I have even better equippement but paid nothing for them and use them since my birth. :tongue:
Sorry, my mistake about the brand he uses.
No professional ever washes the cars in direct sunlight orelse he's no professional.
It doesn't make sense to remove 0.005 % of the dirty by rubbing on the paint with a claybar and wonder yourself that there are quite a few scratches, presumably most of them by the dirt that stick in the claybar. And then he wonders about the fine scratches which you have to polish anyway. So the claybar-step is nonsense. It only makes sense if you have some SPOTS with resistive dirt but you're fingernail does that better.
It looks very impressive and professional to use high-tech equippement to measure the glance. I have even better equippement but paid nothing for them and use them since my birth. :tongue:
Sorry, my mistake about the brand he uses.
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I completely agree with you that you should never wash in direct sunlight if that's an option for you. It's certainly not recommended.
I'm also not saying his products and techniques are "the best" but just wanted to point out he was far from an amateur and clear up the brand he uses.
George
I'm also not saying his products and techniques are "the best" but just wanted to point out he was far from an amateur and clear up the brand he uses.
George
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I completely agree with you that you should never wash in direct sunlight if that's an option for you. It's certainly not recommended.
I'm also not saying his products and techniques are "the best" but just wanted to point out he was far from an amateur and clear up the brand he uses.
George
Ok, he's no amateur, I agree. I used this expression as an exaggeration. :tongue::wink: So maybe, he's a wannabe-professional?
I hate stories like that: He uses BIG-$$$ wax, several steps, expensive equippement like glance-meter and several hours. Very impressive.
BUT he washes the car in the sun and uses the claybar in a wrong way by scratching the paint IMO.
OK, sometimes I'm very hard on the others. :wink: But output has never been a positive correlation of the input in every case, sometimes even negative. The only thing that is important is efficiency. To improve efficiency or to find those factors which conribute the most is a very challenging task which was described by no less than Ayrton Senna himself in on of his interviews.
So it's not the several steps or the BIG-$$$ he 'invests' into it to get a stunning result but much more the way to find better steps and ruling out worse ones (washing in the sun). Some people hate me for that but some are thankful because they improve themself.
I will guess the car was washed outside because of 1) to accomodate the filming, and 2) the location of the car. Mostly likely he was flown to where the car is, not the other way around.
Sunlight should have no effect on the paint when washing a car. Heat is the enemy, not light. Do you know the aproximate temperature it was durring the filming of that video?
Juice raises a great point. If you watch the video, he is wearing a long sleeve. So I doubt it was very hot outside.
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So what is the definitve line on Clay Bar? Is it a safe way of removing contaminants or does it scratch your paint to bits?
Cheers,
James.
Cheers,
James.
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There are varying degrees of aggressiveness of clay bars and a lot of the risk of adding swirls and imperfections in your paint comes with the technique and grade clay bar you use.
If the car needs a major overhaul and you plan on buffing out swirls and scratches regardless what happens after the clay stage, you can be a little more free with the clay and use a medium grade clay bar to quickly remove surface contamination. More than likely this will create minor swirls or marring in the paint which will be corrected after the polishing stages.
If you do not plan on polishing your paint, you would want to use a fine grade clay bar with plenty of clay lube on the surface. This will minimize your chances of marring the paint when using the clay. Some key tips would be to constantly reshape the clay after every 2' x 2' area, if you drop the clay throw it out, use a lot of clay lube as mentioned, gently glide the clay over the surface rather than applying a lot of pressure, etc.
Claying your paint is really one of the only effective ways to fully remove both macro and micro surface contamination from your vehicle. It also will enhance the results of a polish, extend your durability of a sealant or wax because there will not be contamination on the surface when applying any step after the clay bar.
Here is some helpful information from our site that helps explain clay bars and walks you through a step by step process of claying.
Hope this helps.
George @ Detailed Image
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The water drops act as LENSES which could burn spots in your paint.
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
(Sorry, couldn't help myself)
Is there a "best detailer in the world" contest somewhere that I haven't heard about? Spending 64 hours to wash a damn car makes about as much sense as spending 5 hours to wipe your ass after a dump. :biggrin:
But the water cools the paint, so it shouldn't be an issue.
Since you brought it up, how ya been?:biggrin:
Are you saying that water spots left on a car, from the sun drying the droplets of water, that they are are really burns in the paint?
Water does not burn spots into paint. Water spots are formed due to the calcium and magnesium derived from hard water deposits, which dried and etched into the clear.
Also, the device he uses to measure the clear coat is called a depth gauge. Personally I think this detailer is going a bit overboard and trying a little too hard to make it seem like he's this great detailer. There really is no need to use a depth gauge. I mean c'mon, how many times do you figure the paint was cut on that car?
Surface scratches and swirls are the only scratches that can be removed with a buffer. If its too deep (can run your fingernail through it) than body work/paint is necessary. Another thing that baffles me with this guy. Who takes more than 5 hours on a high end car? Is it really that dirty? 64 hours? I think thats called a full restoration (cleaning every nut and bolt). Id like to see that detailer detail a pile of shit before people start claiming him to be the best. So far I've only heard of him doing clean high end cars.
BTW, I just spent 6 hours detailing the exterior on my daily driven BMW 5 Series yesterday. Lots of scratches! I chose to do a five step process. Heavy cut, Medium cut, Light Cut, Glaze/Polish, and to finish it off... a coat of Zymol Creame! Gotta love it!
Finally spending time wiping my ass of course. :tongue:
Water beads can indeed focus the sun on the finish. This can be particular problematic in areas where rain is slightly acidic. It is the sun which etches those spots into the paint, not the presence of minerals from hard water (which easily wash off).
I respectfully disagree with the first sentence. Water not only diffuses sunlight very effectively, it also reflects it. So much so that if you're going to take underwater photos, the light is diminshed by as much as 3 f-stops immediately below the surface under certain conditions.
Not only that but water is a great insulator and conducts heat very efficiently. This means that the surface of the car under each drop of water will be significantly cooler than a dry area. The heat that the water absorbs is of course dissipated by evaporation. What's left behind is whatever solid materials were suspended in the water droplet.
In areas with a lot of acid rain, I agree that it would be a good idea use a detailing spray to get those spots off. Treat them as you would bird shit.
I dont know who taught you that but you're incorrect. It is the minerals in the water that damage the paint. Run a water sprinkler from your outdoor faucet. Have that sprinkler spray one entire side of your car for a couple hours. Ill give you the benefit of the doubt and allow you to store the car 24 hours in a garage nowhere near sunlight. Watch and you will see what happens. I would like to see these spots just simply wash off.
I don't know who told you that but you're totally incorrect. I've done exactly what you describe, putting away the car when there is tap water on it (the tap water here is quite hard) as well as rain water, and in both cases, the spots wash off just fine. The only time I've had paint etched was when the car got caught in a rainstorm and then the sun came out, so the water beads focused the sunlight around their edges.
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The lighter the paint finish, the more forgiving it is with regards to low end waxes/polish.
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