Get your 4.4 liters of 10w30 mobil 1 for 32.99 down from 41.99.
Trev
looks like they will have 5w30, 15w50 and 5w20 as well.
Trev
looks like they will have 5w30, 15w50 and 5w20 as well.
Mobil 1 Synth Sale Cdn. Tire March 5 2010
- Thread starter ffffanman
- Start date
Hey Trev approx how long & kms do you run Mobil1 in your NSX? I found the blend has changed over the last few years, not sure if its as good as it use to be? I'm always down a quart or more before 5000kms using it. Switched to BG Hi/Low Synthetic now without any problems or being down as much as 1L using Mobil. Well eitherway still not bad price at CT, I've seen it at Walmart on occasion for around the $30ish mark for the 4.4L. Spring is around the corner boyz... soon :biggrin:
I usually change out at 5000k as well.
My engine is a different animal so I do eat a bit more than a stock engine.
But yes, I do eat a bit.
Last change I skipped out to another brand though, just for fun.
Penzoil syth I think.
I'll check my stock and maybe pick up some of this.
I only have two long filters left....yikes......
Trev
p.s. Whats a BG?
My engine is a different animal so I do eat a bit more than a stock engine.
But yes, I do eat a bit.
Last change I skipped out to another brand though, just for fun.
Penzoil syth I think.
I'll check my stock and maybe pick up some of this.
I only have two long filters left....yikes......
Trev
p.s. Whats a BG?
I just got back from CT with 3 jugs. They have 5W30 as well.
Whats that for? Your lawnmower?
Trev
Trev
Nissan X-Trail and Toyoto Tacoma. The winter beaters!
The Lawnmower is a Honda. I think it does use 5W30
The Lawnmower is a Honda. I think it does use 5W30
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Is your car still CTSC'd right now? Yea I was consuming a lot more than I expected on my stock 3.2L. I decided to try BG Hi-Low 0W30 on recommendation of my one of my mechanic buddies he mentioned that they had one of their engines blow using Mobil1 on a Turbo G35. Plus they'd been using BG for years in a couple race cars with good results.
So I've been using the BG 0W30 for over 2 years now going on 3 with no consumption issues not down by a litre of oil anymore I'd say maybe a 1/4 L between oil changes now at the most. In the next little while my car will be SOS Supercharged we'll see how well it holds up then? They claim a drain life of like ~24KMS I still dump it at 5k anyway. I guess I could pull it out and use it in my lawnmower afterwards... lol
See http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html & a little blurb on the Hi-Low oil:
BG Hi-L0W30
High Performance Engine Oil
BG Hi-L0W30 is a revolutionary synthetic engine oil utilizing the most shear stable polymer technology available. Designed for passenger cars, vans and light trucks, BG Hi-L0W30 flows immediately to lubricate vital engine components, even at temperatures as low as 50 degrees below zero. It is an excellent product for arctic conditions. Provides long drain life of 15,000 miles
I can confirm that Mobil 1s full synthetic blend has changed over the years but it's been the same for about 3-4 years now. Before that, it used to have about 30-40% more additives that resist breakdown. I'll have to refer to my analysis results for the actual chemical compound...
I know this as I've brought various oils in to get lab tested while new and then tested when used so I had a good baseline. Castrol Full Synthetic has the same levels of additives that the old Mobil 1 mix had so now I mostly use Castrol unless there is a Mobil 1 sale. Castrol 10-30 is $37 or $39 at Costco for 6 liters. In my opinion, a much better deal and the odd occasion it goes down to $29 then I really stock up. I've seen people come in and buy the entire skid!
CT used to have the $29 for a 4.4L jug + 1L jug specials which were a great deal but @ $33 for 4.4L, I'll stick to $39 for 6L of better oil.
BTW, based on my OEM NA engine driven mildly hard all the time, and based on the wear indicators from my new and used oil, I have found that even at 8k, there is still some life left in the oil. I've changed at 9k and the oil was almost done. 7k is probably a good place to change it. My engine doesn't burn any oil but if you have an engine that does, check it at every fuel fill and always have a 1L bottle in the trunk so you can top it up. An engine that burns some oil will wear down the oil faster as the total quantity decreases unless you keep it regularly topped up.
That's why the 6x1L bottles from Costco are great! :biggrin:
I know this as I've brought various oils in to get lab tested while new and then tested when used so I had a good baseline. Castrol Full Synthetic has the same levels of additives that the old Mobil 1 mix had so now I mostly use Castrol unless there is a Mobil 1 sale. Castrol 10-30 is $37 or $39 at Costco for 6 liters. In my opinion, a much better deal and the odd occasion it goes down to $29 then I really stock up. I've seen people come in and buy the entire skid!
CT used to have the $29 for a 4.4L jug + 1L jug specials which were a great deal but @ $33 for 4.4L, I'll stick to $39 for 6L of better oil.
BTW, based on my OEM NA engine driven mildly hard all the time, and based on the wear indicators from my new and used oil, I have found that even at 8k, there is still some life left in the oil. I've changed at 9k and the oil was almost done. 7k is probably a good place to change it. My engine doesn't burn any oil but if you have an engine that does, check it at every fuel fill and always have a 1L bottle in the trunk so you can top it up. An engine that burns some oil will wear down the oil faster as the total quantity decreases unless you keep it regularly topped up.
That's why the 6x1L bottles from Costco are great! :biggrin:
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Since we seem to have experts on oil ... how many years can I go before changing oil? Based on mileage, I could get 3 years of usage between changes.:wink:
Is there a problem switching from synthetic to plain old dinosaur oil?
I beleive 10-30 is recommended for the NSX ... with the modern oils, is there a better weight for our cars?
Dan (it's been too long since I drive my NSX) Caveman.
Is there a problem switching from synthetic to plain old dinosaur oil?
I beleive 10-30 is recommended for the NSX ... with the modern oils, is there a better weight for our cars?
Dan (it's been too long since I drive my NSX) Caveman.
Dan, I'm in the same boat as you and my oil can last at least 2 years since just don't drive it enough. There is definitely a difference between changing the oil at 8k in the same year vs. changing it at 8k after almost 2 years. I did this experiment...
Changing the oil at 8k within the summer season (change beginning of summer and change at the end of summer), after oil analysis, still had life left. Not a tonne but I estimated about another 1k or so. The oil was Dark Brown.
Changing the oil at 8k after almost 2 seasons (change at the beginning of summer, driving all summer, storing it in the winter, driving all summer and changing it at the end of summer), after oil analysis, was right at the wear thresholds for the oil and the additives were almost all gone and by that time, enough debris from the intake for 2 full seasons had accumulated enough silicone and other contaminants to show up on the report and the oil was BLACK.
My suggestion is the change the oil at the beginning of each driving season at minumum. If you track it, I'd suggest changing it more often. I have not tracked my car enough and have done enough before and after track oil analysis to say anything concrete.
As I understand, going from dino to synthetic is much worse in an older car than going from synthetic to dino. most new cars start with dino oil and you decide if you want to switch sometime after the break in period.
Speaking form experience, I had my Accord on dino since new (11 years ago) and after 4 years I switched to synthetic and it began to burn oil. It got progressively worse over the next few years and I was burning about a 1L/1K of driving. I was going through synthetic like water. Eventually I ended up with a burn valve (but I had no idea, I just lost all pressure in 1 cylinder so I swapped engines). I can't say conclusively that it was switching to synthetic after 4 years that caused it but the car wasn't burning any oil before that...
Changing the oil at 8k within the summer season (change beginning of summer and change at the end of summer), after oil analysis, still had life left. Not a tonne but I estimated about another 1k or so. The oil was Dark Brown.
Changing the oil at 8k after almost 2 seasons (change at the beginning of summer, driving all summer, storing it in the winter, driving all summer and changing it at the end of summer), after oil analysis, was right at the wear thresholds for the oil and the additives were almost all gone and by that time, enough debris from the intake for 2 full seasons had accumulated enough silicone and other contaminants to show up on the report and the oil was BLACK.
My suggestion is the change the oil at the beginning of each driving season at minumum. If you track it, I'd suggest changing it more often. I have not tracked my car enough and have done enough before and after track oil analysis to say anything concrete.
As I understand, going from dino to synthetic is much worse in an older car than going from synthetic to dino. most new cars start with dino oil and you decide if you want to switch sometime after the break in period.
Speaking form experience, I had my Accord on dino since new (11 years ago) and after 4 years I switched to synthetic and it began to burn oil. It got progressively worse over the next few years and I was burning about a 1L/1K of driving. I was going through synthetic like water. Eventually I ended up with a burn valve (but I had no idea, I just lost all pressure in 1 cylinder so I swapped engines). I can't say conclusively that it was switching to synthetic after 4 years that caused it but the car wasn't burning any oil before that...
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No No No Go Red Line 10w40 #1
I tried Redline and also did lab analysis on it. The bottom line is that the additives were similar and slightly more than Castrol but it just wasn't worth the $12 or $14 a liter. CT had a sale a while back and they went down to $8 a liter and that's when I tried it.
Not a bad oil, just not worth the price tag... Honestly, if you change oil often enough, most pure synthetics will suffice. Can't justify $70-$80 buying Redline for one oil change when $40 is just as good...
Not a bad oil, just not worth the price tag... Honestly, if you change oil often enough, most pure synthetics will suffice. Can't justify $70-$80 buying Redline for one oil change when $40 is just as good...
$33 for 4.4 litres is about $7.50 a litre + taxes..and I think that is pretty pricey compared to other brands. I personally use Amsoil 5w-30, bought directly from amsoil.com. With the membership discount, it's about the same price as the Mobil1 per litre. And Amsoil 5w-30 is rated at 15000 miles. Not that I would leave it in for so long, but it gives you a sense of how good the oil is.
I'm thinking of switching over to their signature series oil, the 0w-30. But that is a tad more expensive. Rated at 25000 miles
I'm thinking of switching over to their signature series oil, the 0w-30. But that is a tad more expensive. Rated at 25000 miles
I'm interested to know if those number are real... without being able to test the oil at that age, I can't confirm it. But I would think that even if the oil lasted that long, the oil filter likely would not.
Wonder how messy would it be to try and swap oil filters out without changing the oil...
Wonder how messy would it be to try and swap oil filters out without changing the oil...
Garrick, do you use blackstone to do your oil analysis?
I use AGAT Labs.
Also noticed some other good deals:
torque wrench and Elimiator booster pack.
torque wrench and Elimiator booster pack.
VERY messy... :redface:
I spoke to a Shell engineer when I owned my NSX and he talked about engines that weren't designed with synthetic in mind. He mentioned they will burn more oil with synthetic blends due to differences of the chemical structure of the oil. Honestly, I can't remember all the details of the conversation, but I stopped using synth in the NSX afterwards and my oil consumption dropped.
I changed the oil in the NSX at a completely silly pace - every 3000km or after a track day etc. I was just throwing away good oil.
I changed the oil in the NSX at a completely silly pace - every 3000km or after a track day etc. I was just throwing away good oil.
Hey, I am no mechanic, so even basic stuff is a nevelty to me...but I have always changed oil/filter in all my cars every 3000-3500 kms....I used to always just use the Quaker state reg oil. When on sale it was always fairly cheap, and often got a filter with it for free....I have since changed to synth. Castrol in everything, other than NSX which I am using Mobil 1 synth. (because that is what the original owner said he always used)....in fact I bought 2 jugs in Lethbridge in August at Walmart for $28.00 ea....never saw it that cheap before....since I might be lucky to do 1500 kms a year with the NSX, I figure one change a year is no big deal at that price. I agree though, it seems like sometimes I am just spilling out good oil, but for a shade tree mechanic like myself, this is cheap insurance that oil will always be good, and gives me the feeling like I am "actually" doing something other than just driving...I am surrounded by HD techs where I work, and I am envious as to their skills...so it makes me feel good when I can get my hands dirty doing an oil change or something straightforward.
(I should mention that about every 4th change, I take it to the dealer to do it, so they can also look things over for any signs of problems under the car.)
Been doing this for almost 30 years this way and never had any problems what so ever with engines.
What do you guys recomend for tranny?...some on here have talked about Royal Purple., as well as GM stuff?....I just changed mine with stuff from Honda, although I don't think it was synthetic? Some claim the GM Synthetic stuff will help the NSX changed more smoothly....mine only feels a bit notchy from 1st to 2nd..othewise its like butter....
(I should mention that about every 4th change, I take it to the dealer to do it, so they can also look things over for any signs of problems under the car.)
Been doing this for almost 30 years this way and never had any problems what so ever with engines.
What do you guys recomend for tranny?...some on here have talked about Royal Purple., as well as GM stuff?....I just changed mine with stuff from Honda, although I don't think it was synthetic? Some claim the GM Synthetic stuff will help the NSX changed more smoothly....mine only feels a bit notchy from 1st to 2nd..othewise its like butter....
If by Tranny you mean Stu (Red on this board). We usually recommend that you maintain a healthy supply of ice tea on hand, refrain from commenting on his pink driving suit, never let him sit down in your chair at the track if he is still connected to his Cool Suit cooler, but most importantly, extreme caution if you enter his Love Shack at Mosport.
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