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low RPM power loss
- Thread starter vietNSeXy
- Start date
Your problem disappeared but how? You didn't not give any details.
Water issue? Dirty TB? It disappeared on it's own?????
I'm guessing it was a water problem?
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Yes, disappeared on its own after using half the tank of gas. When it gets down near empty, will add some isopropyl alohol and a bottle of Techron, just to make sure.
Ah geez, it's going to be a tough next few gallons. I'm glad I only put in a few gallons at a time. Thank you for the input. I'll try it over the next couple days. Ah, hell, I'll toss in some of the fuel drier stuff this afternoon and run it down ASAP. Then gas up at the VALERO instead and toss in some techron. Thanks again
Am paranoid now about where to get fuel, esp premium. Living on an island, we only have one non-convenience store station and that's Shell - heard too many bad things about their gas, although a Ferrari/Maserati guy here uses it with no problems. Good luck!
Living on an island, we only have one non-convenience store station and that's Shell - heard too many bad things about their gas, although a Ferrari/Maserati guy here uses it with no problems. Good luck!
how low should I run it before I fill up again? I checked my bank statements and it confirms that I only pump $10 at a time.
Doing my math....... I got just above 5 gallons. Then based on miles driven, and average mpg I should have just about 1/2 gallon in my tank when I gased up. Putting me up to 5.5 gallons. Then the problem occurred the next day after ~miles, I should now be at ~4.5 gallons.
So how low should I go? Till the light kicks on or should I try to go lower? Not sure just how bad the stuff in there might be and prefer not to dilute 4+ gallons with 14+ gallons of fresh fuel. 4
Doing my math....... I got just above 5 gallons. Then based on miles driven, and average mpg I should have just about 1/2 gallon in my tank when I gased up. Putting me up to 5.5 gallons. Then the problem occurred the next day after ~miles, I should now be at ~4.5 gallons.
So how low should I go? Till the light kicks on or should I try to go lower? Not sure just how bad the stuff in there might be and prefer not to dilute 4+ gallons with 14+ gallons of fresh fuel. 4
I'd just be guessing. Originally being from up North, to prevent fuel-line freeze, we always put in the alcohol when the tank was at its lowest, but I'm not sure that's the best science.
Same here. I always put my bottle of Chevron at below onehalf tank.
i always run my cars down to the light.
ill hit high boost with the fuel light on :biggrin:
ill hit high boost with the fuel light on :biggrin:
Oh and get this, by chance I ran across someone with a honda civic who gased up with premium at Chevron in Livingston very recently. Had the same problems.
On another note.... I fixed my problem. It seems to be part bad fuel but was actually a minor role in my problem. I'm fixing that by putting in fuel drier and running it down dangerously empty past the light. Then filling up and adding a bottle of techron.
Anyhow, I pulled my plugs tonight to replace them. Remember how I mentioned the one coil that had a sooty dark residue? Well the threads on the plug came out dark black, ground electrode tan, center electrode tan and base of the threads (inside combustion chamber) tan.
The other 5 came out identical to each other but different from the one odd duck. They came out rusty color threads, tan ground electrode, tan center electrode and base of threads black. In other words they looked good. In fact they all seem to looked good. Just that one odd duck out of the bunch was not right.
Here is where it all fell together. The one odd ball sparkplug, well when I dropped in the socket to remove it, I used my fingers to set the socket and extension in place and turn it to set. Well it seems that it was so loose, it was coming out with just my hands. ONE LOOSE SPARKPLUG. The black residue on the coil turned out to be carbon deposits from exhaust gases escaping. The black threads on the spark plug, also the same thing, carbon. The plug was in enough to stay put, but loose enough to allow exhaust gases to escape.
Wow........ Once again, that is just crazy. I dodged the bullet by spending $3 on a bottle of fuel line drier, $7 bottle of Techron, $1 plug gap gauge, $2 dielectric grease and antiseize, and 6 oem iridium plugs I had sitting in my trunk waiting for a long time. She's back again out on the road. My motor is quieter now. What I once thought was noisy valves turned out to be a loose plug. It actually has more power now, revs MUCH smoother and accelerates CONSIDERABLY faster. The car is also quieter inside.
I say my problem was 90% loose sparkplug,10% bad fuel.
On another note.... I fixed my problem. It seems to be part bad fuel but was actually a minor role in my problem. I'm fixing that by putting in fuel drier and running it down dangerously empty past the light. Then filling up and adding a bottle of techron.
Anyhow, I pulled my plugs tonight to replace them. Remember how I mentioned the one coil that had a sooty dark residue? Well the threads on the plug came out dark black, ground electrode tan, center electrode tan and base of the threads (inside combustion chamber) tan.
The other 5 came out identical to each other but different from the one odd duck. They came out rusty color threads, tan ground electrode, tan center electrode and base of threads black. In other words they looked good. In fact they all seem to looked good. Just that one odd duck out of the bunch was not right.
Here is where it all fell together. The one odd ball sparkplug, well when I dropped in the socket to remove it, I used my fingers to set the socket and extension in place and turn it to set. Well it seems that it was so loose, it was coming out with just my hands. ONE LOOSE SPARKPLUG. The black residue on the coil turned out to be carbon deposits from exhaust gases escaping. The black threads on the spark plug, also the same thing, carbon. The plug was in enough to stay put, but loose enough to allow exhaust gases to escape.
Wow........ Once again, that is just crazy. I dodged the bullet by spending $3 on a bottle of fuel line drier, $7 bottle of Techron, $1 plug gap gauge, $2 dielectric grease and antiseize, and 6 oem iridium plugs I had sitting in my trunk waiting for a long time. She's back again out on the road. My motor is quieter now. What I once thought was noisy valves turned out to be a loose plug. It actually has more power now, revs MUCH smoother and accelerates CONSIDERABLY faster. The car is also quieter inside.
I say my problem was 90% loose sparkplug,10% bad fuel.
The fuel light takes a LONG time with the needle sitting at E to go on. Seriously, it's scary the first time waiting and waiting for it to come on. I got lucky because my light worked
Even with the needle sitting on E, I can drive from Merced to Modesto or Ripon till it comes on. As for the horn..... Stock steering wheel right? Have you checked the fuse? Checked to make sure the wire is plugged into the horn under the hood? Throw a test light on it or volt meter, then hit the horn to watch the test light come on, or volt meter to register.
45 minutes? lol, what were you driving? a bus? lol, moderate speeding, northeast side of merced to downtown Modesto in 32 minutes
NSXrecord timing, highway 41 & 180 fresno, to northeast merced in 36 minutes Door to door
Honda CBR F4i
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