Long term maintenance items - need guidance

[JD Cross]

My 91 has 147 k km (91k miles).

It's still running it's original harmonic balancer, its original R12 AC coolant and compressor and original alternator.
It has been 10 years and 37 k miles since the last timing belt/water pump change.
I don't track the car often, and it's used summer only.

I'd like to hear from long term owners about their experience with the above items.

Thanks
Jim

 

[NSX2398]

Wow .. I can't believe that with the car sitting for the winters, you haven't already had issues with the a/c seals drying out and losing coolant. I did the R134 upgrade and replaced the compressor long ago in my '91 (currently at a little over double your miles). And I'm sure you're going to hear from many people that you're over the time limit on your timing belt so it's a bit like playing Russian roulette. My first one was done at 90k miles and about 10 years just before I bought it; the second at 17 years and about 165k miles but because I winter drive mine, I wasn't sure if that would accelerate the wear. However, the mechanic who did the work has seen many of them and he said mine seemed to still be in good shape and no worse than others he sees in spite of many cold starts at temps in the -20 to -40C range. I did have my harmonic balancer replaced as a preventative measure a number of years ago after there were some failures on Prime. However, I think that a more cost effective guard has since been developed. Haven't touched my alternator yet.

 

[nsxtasy]

I would definitely replace the timing belt and water pump RIGHT NOW. It's four years overdue, and if it goes, you're probably looking at replacing the engine. I can tell you how much that costs, and it's a lot more than it costs to replace the timing belt and water pump.

I would also replace the cooling system hoses at the same time, if they're still the originals.

I think replacing the harmonic balancer pulley is a good idea. That's why I know how much it costs to replace the engine.

As long as the A/C is working, you could wait until there's a problem, then swap to R-134a at that time. Similarly, you could keep using the alternator until there's a problem.

 

[JD Cross]

I forgot to add the LMA assembly in the heads. Is this an item that needs replacing?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

You can test the LMA's once you get to the valve train(remove VC's). I have changed a few sets, but.....not a common failure.

Regards,
LarryB

 

[davidf]

Raise the car or crawl under and check the right inner CV boot. These tend to split due to age/heat from the exhaust directly above it.

 

[JD Cross]

Raise the car or crawl under and check the right inner CV boot. These tend to split due to age/heat from the exhaust directly above it.

David
I caught this one last year and fixed it.
I've also got some weeping from driveshaft seals which I keep a close eye on
Thanks
Jim

 

[Honcho]

You can test the LMA's once you get to the valve train(remove VC's). I have changed a few sets, but.....not a common failure.

Regards,
LarryB

+1 I replaced my LMA's with SOS version during my major service this winter as a preventative fix. But, my car is pushing 90,000 miles and I will not have another major service for 7 years. I believe the LMA issue is more due to usage than any defect. Eventually, the springs inside the LMA housing wear into the walls and stick. LarryB was nice enough to bring some bad LMA's to last year's NSXPO tech session so we could actually see and feel what the issue is. After working them by hand and seeing for myself, I went out and bought the SOS ones.

With all that said, Ken is right- your car is due for a TB/WP change. Since the top of the engine is going to be cracked open, it is an opportunity to save some labor on other jobs your car might not need now, but could need in the future. This was my rationale for the LMA's. Here are the other extra items I had done:

Cam plugs
Cam seals
Harmonic Balancer
Spool Valve Gaskets
Oil Filter figure 8 gasket
Thermostat
PCV valve
Rear Main Seal
Crank Seal

Additionally, if your coolant hoses are original 91, you really should have them replaced. The original 91 factory hoses were the subject of a TSB where they failed prematurely causing overheats and in some cases engine/head damage. The replacement hoses from Honda do not have this problem and should last 10+ years. If yours have lasted this long, they probably were not affected by the TSB issue, but it is better safe than sorry.

 

[JD Cross]

+1 I replaced my LMA's with SOS version during my major service this winter as a preventative fix. But, my car is pushing 90,000 miles and I will not have another major service for 7 years. I believe the LMA issue is more due to usage than any defect. Eventually, the springs inside the LMA housing wear into the walls and stick. LarryB was nice enough to bring some bad LMA's to last year's NSXPO tech session so we could actually see and feel what the issue is. After working them by hand and seeing for myself, I went out and bought the SOS ones.

With all that said, Ken is right- your car is due for a TB/WP change. Since the top of the engine is going to be cracked open, it is an opportunity to save some labor on other jobs your car might not need now, but could need in the future. This was my rationale for the LMA's. Here are the other extra items I had done:

Cam plugs
Cam seals
Harmonic Balancer
Spool Valve Gaskets
Oil Filter figure 8 gasket
Thermostat
PCV valve
Rear Main Seal
Crank Seal

Additionally, if your coolant hoses are original 91, you really should have them replaced. The original 91 factory hoses were the subject of a TSB where they failed prematurely causing overheats and in some cases engine/head damage. The replacement hoses from Honda do not have this problem and should last 10+ years. If yours have lasted this long, they probably were not affected by the TSB issue, but it is better safe than sorry.

ian/Ken/Honcho/Larry

Thanks for the guidance!

I did the hoses/oil filter fig 8/ thermostat last year and did valve lash/injectors/fuel filter and spark plugs this year.
I'm kicking myself for not doing the TB/WP while I was in there but I'll do it now along with the other preventative items.
Might as well be safe

Jim

 

[tbnsxt]

I would do the sos billet cam plugs. They are a much better design than the factory plastics.

If the rear main is not leaking leave it alone! you can actually cause a leak by playing with it.

But yes especially with the winters, the heat cycling does harden rubbers and plastics so i would definitely replace the coolant lines. Blowing one really sucks!

 

[nsxtasy]

Additionally, if your coolant hoses are original 91, you really should have them replaced. The original 91 factory hoses were the subject of a TSB where they failed prematurely causing overheats and in some cases engine/head damage. The replacement hoses from Honda do not have this problem and should last 10+ years. If yours have lasted this long, they probably were not affected by the TSB issue, but it is better safe than sorry.

I don't recall that TSB at all. That being said, cooling system hoses on ALL cars don't last forever. Maybe 10 years, but I sure wouldn't go over that figure, especially for the big ones. Doing them at the same time as the timing belt and water pump is a good idea, because it's a suitably long interval, and there are savings in labor and coolant, since the coolant is flushed at the same time as the water pump replacement. Jim, since you did yours last year, no need to do them again. Also, if you're keeping track of your service intervals, note that the coolant flush (with the WP) resets the interval for that particular service.