lightweight battery suggestions?

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8 August 2012
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New Smyrna Beach
What lightweight batteries are you guys using/ do you suggest?
 
There are numerous threads about this topic. I use the PC680.
 
How do you secure it due to the size?
 
What lightweight batteries are you guys using/ do you suggest?

Shorai lithium iron. 4.9 pounds. 30-38 pounds lighter than stock depending on year.

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Member phrixys can get it for you at discount and get you an aluminum mount.

Lead acid is passé.
 
2 reasons why I don't find lightweight (and small) batteries worth it:

1. Cold cranking amps are almost always puny
2. doesn't hold juice that long


The weight savings benefits aren't really there since it's in the front, at a low center of gravity position and behind the front axles.
 
Shorai lithium iron. 4.9 pounds. 30-38 pounds lighter than stock depending on year.

Member phryxis can get it for you at discount and get you an aluminum mount.

Lead acid is passé.

+1 Shorai from phryxis. GB to come soon maybe...?

Thanks for the support guys :)

We are on the verge of a group buy for our battery trays.

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Under 7 pounds mounted weight (that includes the battery), mounts with existing holes, no cutting/drilling necessary.

2 reasons why I don't find lightweight (and small) batteries worth it:

1. Cold cranking amps are almost always puny
2. doesn't hold juice that long

The weight savings benefits aren't really there since it's in the front, at a low center of gravity position and behind the front axles.

I'd agree with you if you said this a couple of years ago, but this new battery technology is really fantastic. It's Lithium Iron (not Ion), and has some pretty remarkable battery characteristics. Its CCAs are very good, 540 for this version, and can crank over a high compression BRZ motor, as we tested with RYU's car last week. Capacity is still very good, I've gone 10 days without any problems starting the car. Weekly starts are absolutely no problem. Still trying to find the upper limit of how long the car can sit while still being able to start it. I'll be embarking on cold weather testing (aka leaving the battery in the freezer) very soon as well.

And while I agree with you that you wouldn't be losing the weight in the most ideal area, it's still a very significant weight savings, close to 1% of the car. There's no other mod that gives you such a drop in weight from a single mod alone. To me, weight savings are weight savings, and weight savings are good :)
 
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Phryxis: Can you provide the various models that will work with an NSX, from the lowest CCA to the highest? Is the CCA 540 the max? TIA

Yes, 540 CCAs are the max from this particular line of batteries. It's the only battery I've tried, and the only one we're designing trays for, as it's the biggest (36 amp hours) and the strongest in the lineup. I personally wouldn't really want to use any of the smaller batteries because I want the longest time possible between startups. The next step down is a 27 amp hour version, but the weight savings are almost negligible for the loss in capacity.
 
Phryxis: Can you provide the various models that will work with an NSX, from the lowest CCA to the highest? Is the CCA 540 the max? TIA
Hrant, I know this was directed at Phryxis but if you can kindly allow me to add my $0.02 please...

Let me first say, I'm lucky to consider Phryxis a friend, but otherwise I have no vested interested, monetary or otherwise in the well being of this product. He's spent a lot of time finding the ideal sizing for the NSX. You can go larger but unless you have bigger electrical loads I don't see the need to. More importantly, he's including a custom, lightweight, super strong machined bracket that's specific to the NA1 and NA2 which he machine's himself - that's really the value add here.

I, too am also concerned about the 540CCA on this Shorai which is why i've asked Phryxis to allow me to test this unit on my NSX. I'm running a weak CTSC/Prelude Alternator, a monster Supra Denso Fuel pump, a stereo amp, a heavy duty air compressor (bigger than Umbrellas) for my suspension lift kit, and a bunch of other electrical gizmos. I can't think of a better test case for this size Shorai battery. I'll bet money it will work just fine though i've already killed a Buddy Club AGM battery with a Odyssey 680 on the car now.

Shorai has several sizes available here. http://www.shoraipower.com/
 
This is the only one to use. How much more weight do you want to save? another 1-2? This is under 5 pounds. I have gone 14 days now with no seeming loss of power. cranks my CTSC motor right away.

Batman I am with Phryxis on this. Yoir points were valid while a good lithim battery was $1500 (which most, still are). I didn't get mine through Phryxis, I paid a lot more through battery mart. I posted my results on prime and only then did I find out he was a dealer and was building a mount. A very solid and beautiful mount by the way. So I can get rid of my stock battery holder with all that white foam wedged in there lol.

I cannot be happier with a mod. I don't know why EVERY NSX owner does not have this. I really was expecting problems with this battery. I have had NONE. I called the manufacturer and asked about use in a car. They said it wasn't tested and they didn't recommend it. That I was on my own. Let me tell you, when you lose 30-40 pounds off the front in one whack... you feel it in the steering. This and the spare is 65-70 pounds off. If you want more, you can run two of these batteries in parallel. Double the power and capacity. Waaaay more than any battery other than some mega boat anchor. But you don't need it.

Phryxis I am using my posts in standard configuration with some washers. It's tight and I think a better fit.

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Ryu all the electrical items you list have no affect on the battery when the engine is running. That is all alternator. I don't think the Prelude alternator is all that weak. I've never heard of an NSX having any problems with it. But this is one reason I am using all class D amplification in the stereo. Class AB amps are as much of a dinosaur as lead acid batteries.
 
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Thanks for the responses. I am all for supporting anyone who helps the community and my question was not intended to shop from other sources/vendors.

Since I have had issues with CTSC during cold starts (we are talking measly 50F), I have gone to the highest CCA 840 old school 50 lbs battery. I believe my "issue" has been finally resolved as I haven't had the recurring fluctuating RPM after fixing the culprit vacuum hoses - and probably none of the batteries were the issues.

But all NSXs have a slow drain. While I now religiously use a Battery Tender (on all my vehicles), I am indeed curious as to how long the Shorai will last before it dies, and whether cold conditions will affect this. Can it be deep recycled? TIA.
 
I put the Shorei in my car over a year ago posted about it somewhere car is not a daily driver anymore but gets driven most weeks.
I get about ten days out of it between runs any longer and she goes flat but i bought the trickle charger with it and that keeps it up no problem, it cranks better than any other battery before it. I have had my car 15yrs so have been through a few batteries.
I have also run it completely flat a couple of times and it charges up no problem and keeps the charge, best weight saving mod to date by far.
 
What lightweight batteries are you guys using/ do you suggest?

Just for reference, the OEM battery in 1991 5-speeds has part number 70D23L. I believe that lead-acid battery has a capacity of 70 Ah (amp-hours), can deliver that energy at a rate of 580 CCA (cold cranking amps), and it weighs a lot.

Saving weight sounds great and the price of lithium iron phosphate batteries is falling quickly. If you want a lithium iron phosphate battery another alternative to Shorai could be Aliant (see here: http://www.aliant-accu.nl/newsdocs/doc_8.pdf). Their 2.5 kg 600 CCA model X6 costs EUR 577 at my local race shop.

It would be nice to install a battery that can store a similar amount of energy as the stock battery so that it doesn’t die quicker between charges and that can deliver that energy as quickly as the stock battery so that the car starts up nice and fast. The lightweight batteries I’ve seen store a lot less than 70 Ah of energy, though, so they won’t last as long as OEM between charges.
 
Only 10 scammy? Strange as I've gone 2 full weeks now without death.
 
I've switched out different batteries from the NSX and don't notice a 1% weight savings.

I've even borrowed my friends puny odyssey battery that he had laying around. It was some motorcycle-sized battery.

If there was anything I noticed was that the front seems more bouncing and more inclined to under steer.

I didn't like that under steering.

Now I have the fattest battery I could shoe horn in there from Costco. NSX feels more planted in the front.
 
Bat your logic is flawed. First, when it comes to weight savings no one mod does a lot on its own... But when you add it all up and you've removed 200+ useless pounds out of your car (I am already over that) you absolutely feel the difference. You can't say "we'll that's only 6 pounds... That's only 11 pounds... That's only 13 pounds you will never feel that difference". Second, you don't "plant" a car better by adding weight. You do it by adjustments and changes to suspension, tire compounds and pressures and alignment settings. To say your car understeers more because you got a lightweight battery... I don't even know where to start with that one. LOL...

Some of these batteries are 50 plus pounds. When you go from 50 to 4.9 you have removed 45.1 pounds off the car. That is an incredible amount of weight.
 
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Maybe, I'm used to cars like the RX7 and GTO where the weight distribution is at or very near the 50/50 mark (the FD when I was done with it was little lighter in the front and the GTO is a little lighter in the rear).

To me, removing more weight from the front of the NSX makes less than an ideal weight savings.

There are plenty of items that adds weight that has helped in performance from my experience:

1. Wider wheels and tires
2. SOS SC
3. APR GTC-300 (the wing weighs less, but with the stands the entire kit weights more and has a taller center of mass)
 
Ryu all the electrical items you list have no affect on the battery when the engine is running. That is all alternator. I don't think the Prelude alternator is all that weak. I've never heard of an NSX having any problems with it. But this is one reason I am using all class D amplification in the stereo. Class AB amps are as much of a dinosaur as lead acid batteries.

My water spray high pressure pump draws about 10 solid amps at full swing I reckon. The damn fuse for the thing is 20amps big. Turn on the AC, got the amps running, fool around w/ the height adjustment, boost a little and there's a lot of load on the smaller Prelude alternator. Once the electrical system is maxed out it will draw from the battery. Do I expect a problem. Nope! I suspect the Shorai and alternator will handle it just fine.

I've switched out different batteries from the NSX and don't notice a 1% weight savings.

I've even borrowed my friends puny odyssey battery that he had laying around. It was some motorcycle-sized battery.

If there was anything I noticed was that the front seems more bouncing and more inclined to under steer.

I didn't like that under steering.

Now I have the fattest battery I could shoe horn in there from Costco. NSX feels more planted in the front.
I always enjoy reading your posts Bats :)

Let's trade in that NSX of yours for a 71 Hemi Cuda!

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Maybe, I'm used to cars like the RX7 and GTO where the weight distribution is at or very near the 50/50 mark (the FD when I was done with it was little lighter in the front and the GTO is a little lighter in the rear).

To me, removing more weight from the front of the NSX makes less than an ideal weight savings.

There are plenty of items that adds weight that has helped in performance from my experience:

1. Wider wheels and tires
2. SOS SC
3. APR GTC-300 (the wing weighs less, but with the stands the entire kit weights more and has a taller center of mass)
btw.. your APR wing is probably a MUCH bigger contributor to your understeer than the lighter weight battery in the front. At say 60mph there's probably 100+lbs of load on that rear wing w/o an equivalent downforce solution for your front.
 
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I always enjoy reading your posts Bats :)

Let's trade in that NSX of yours for a 71 Hemi Cuda!

btw.. your APR wing is probably a MUCH bigger contributor to your understeer than the lighter weight battery in the front. At say 60mph there's probably 100+lbs of load on that rear wing w/o an equivalent downforce solution for your front.

Ur Welcome.

How did u know my dad had a 71 Cuda? He didn't know what it was worth and sold it to some lucky bastard back in the '70's for $1k.

I've had the understeering issue prior to the spoiler..... but one thing that was constant was that I had Tiens coil overs.
 
Ur Welcome.

How did u know my dad had a 71 Cuda? He didn't know what it was worth and sold it to some lucky bastard back in the '70's for $1k.

I've had the understeering issue prior to the spoiler..... but one thing that was constant was that I had Tiens coil overs.
Oh man.. same story for me. My dad had a 69 RS Camaro. Sold it for $1100 back in 82'. I tried to buy it back recently but the mofo wanted so much money for it.
 
Maybe, I'm used to cars like the RX7 and GTO where the weight distribution is at or very near the 50/50 mark (the FD when I was done with it was little lighter in the front and the GTO is a little lighter in the rear).

To me, removing more weight from the front of the NSX makes less than an ideal weight savings.

There are plenty of items that adds weight that has helped in performance from my experience:

1. Wider wheels and tires
2. SOS SC
3. APR GTC-300 (the wing weighs less, but with the stands the entire kit weights more and has a taller center of mass)

What kind of logic is that? Your supercharger added weight but increased performance so a heavier battery adds weight and that should increase performance too? I said yor logic was flawed before but you just took it to a whole new level with the above examples. LOL...

If you've changed exhausts and cats or headers, you've already removed 30-40 pounds off the end of the car. So if you remove the battery weight, if anything, you've "balanced" the car out... Using like 7th grade math and logic. If your car understeers try a thicker rear sway bar not a heavier battery. You don't go to the track anyway, you are really complaining of understeer in the NSX on the streets? Any of this weight balance talk should be reserved for a seasoned guy on a racetrack. Otherwise your are just playing armchair chassis engineer.
 
What kind of logic is that? Your supercharger added weight but increased performance so a heavier battery adds weight and that should increase performance too? I said yor logic was flawed before but you just took it to a whole new level with the above examples. LOL...

If you've changed exhausts and cats or headers, you've already removed 30-40 pounds off the end of the car. So if you remove the battery weight, if anything, you've "balanced" the car out... Using like 7th grade math and logic. If your car understeers try a thicker rear sway bar not a heavier battery. You don't go to the track anyway, you are really complaining of understeer in the NSX on the streets? Any of this weight balance talk should be reserved for a seasoned guy on a racetrack. Otherwise your are just playing armchair chassis engineer.

LOL

SOS SC provides performance by allowing me to power outta a turn.

I totally agree with you on the exhaust weight reduction and what it did for the NSX in handling.

I have upgraded adjustable sways on my NSX already.

I don't track the NSX, but this isn't the track section so my comments are suitable for street spirited driving.

There is this section (for the bay area guys) that I take coming back from Viet Café shops from 101 to 280 north that I'm noticing this under steering from uneven road surfaces at fast turns.
 
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