Lens for my Canon EOS Digital Rebel

I generally make my on-line camera-related merchandise purchases through B&H Photo and Video. Prices are often priced slightly below the mid-point of any internet price searches, but they are a very stable and reputable company. Some of those lower internet prices you may find might be non-USA (gray-market) items. Shipping charges are reasonable, and purchases outside of NY state are not taxed.

HTH.

-Randy





EDIT: Ooops, looks like RSO34 beat me to the bunch by mere seconds. :D
 
RSO 34 said:
Unless you understand Photoshop, you are better off shooting in the best JPEG setting on your camera. Save the RAW for after getting through some of the learning curve and then reading up on Photoshop.

Again, I disagree entirely. You WILL get better results with RAW - more tonal range, the ability to set your white balance, sharpening, etc. with no "assistance" from the camera. Learning proper RAW workflow is a simple matter.
 
nchopp said:
Again, I disagree entirely. You WILL get better results with RAW - more tonal range, the ability to set your white balance, sharpening, etc. with no "assistance" from the camera. Learning proper RAW workflow is a simple matter.

I didn't say he wouldn't get better results with RAW. The advantages of working with RAW are well known but I believe that for a "beginner" digital slr shooter it makes more sense to learn lighting and composition before worrying about the processing that is necessary to work in RAW.
 
RSO 34 said:
I didn't say he wouldn't get better results with RAW. The advantages of working with RAW are well known but I believe that for a "beginner" digital slr shooter it makes more sense to learn lighting and composition before worrying about the processing that is necessary to work in RAW.


FIGHT, FIGHT!!!:tongue: :tongue: J/K:wink: :biggrin:
 
FuryNSX said:
I generally make my on-line camera-related merchandise purchases through B&H Photo and Video. Prices are often priced slightly below the mid-point of any internet price searches, but they are a very stable and reputable company. Some of those lower internet prices you may find might be non-USA (gray-market) items. Shipping charges are reasonable, and purchases outside of NY state are not taxed.

HTH.

-Randy





EDIT: Ooops, looks like RSO34 beat me to the bunch by mere seconds. :D
thanks very much to both of you, i'll check 'em out and buy asap.

hal
 
RSO 34 said:
I didn't say he wouldn't get better results with RAW. The advantages of working with RAW are well known but I believe that for a "beginner" digital slr shooter it makes more sense to learn lighting and composition before worrying about the processing that is necessary to work in RAW.


Oh, I know. I guess I just disagree about not worrying about RAW. It's not really that complicated, and I think the image quality benefits outweigh the extra learning time - regardless of if a photog is new, experienced, or a 25 year pro.
 
I've been telling people to shy away from building a collection of EF-S lenses simply because they aren't compatible across the entire line of Canon SLRs.

I have the 16-35 2.8L lens on my camera 80% of the time, the 70-200mm 2.8L IS on it 19.9999%, and my old non-L lens on the camera for the rare occassions that I don't feel like risking my more expensive glass (and keep in mind that I've brought my more expensive lenses on a boat and on the mountain while snowboarding). With the 1.6x crop factor on our DSLRs on our camera, I've found the 16-35 2.8L to be a must have lens.

I shoot raw 100% of the time due to the flexibility the format offers (a lot of decisions can be made after the fact...which takes some of the stress off when shooting). That said, even though I'm a pro with Photoshop, I still spend many hours "processing" my photos before showing them (I still haven't finished my photos from NSXPO 2005!!!!).
 
akira3d said:
I've been telling people to shy away from building a collection of EF-S lenses simply because they aren't compatible across the entire line of Canon SLRs.

I have the 16-35 2.8L lens on my camera 80% of the time, the 70-200mm 2.8L IS on it 19.9999%, and my old non-L lens on the camera for the rare occassions that I don't feel like risking my more expensive glass (and keep in mind that I've brought my more expensive lenses on a boat and on the mountain while snowboarding). With the 1.6x crop factor on our DSLRs on our camera, I've found the 16-35 2.8L to be a must have lens.

I shoot raw 100% of the time due to the flexibility the format offers (a lot of decisions can be made after the fact...which takes some of the stress off when shooting). That said, even though I'm a pro with Photoshop, I still spend many hours "processing" my photos before showing them (I still haven't finished my photos from NSXPO 2005!!!!).

Well said regarding the digital line of lenses. Especially if someone plans on going to a full-frame camera (5D, 1DS, 1DS Mark 2), they're going to have problems.
 
Although all the usual suspects have already replied, I would throw my $0.02 in.

The EF16-35 2.8L is indeed a very nice lens and on a 1.6 crop makes a superb walk-around lens (although the range is a little narrow IMHO). I have chosen to go a slightly less expensive rout on my setup and am so far thrilled with the results. On the wide side I use a 12-24 F4 Tokina lens. This is a great lens, very sharp, constaint appeture lens. The downsides are that it flares and has above average CA. The upside is that it is about $450 new and bulit like a tank. L quality build. Superb optics but not L quality. I mate this with a 28-70 F2.8L Canon mid-zoom lens, and a 70-200 F4L telephoto. I tossed in a 1.4X extender recently for a little longer reach on the telephoto and have been very pleased with the results. With the 3 lens setup I have right now, I am pretty well set for most situations. Based on what you have and not knowing your budget I would recomend the Tokina. There are really about 4 UWA lenses in the range you are looking for: Sigma 12-24, Tamron 11-18 (, canon 10-22 ef-s, and the tokina 12-24. Some have suggested other lenses but the ones they have suggested are not any wider than your current 18-55 kit lens.

There are tradeoffs on each of the lenses I have listed and none are perfect. The Sigma can be used on a FF body, while the Tamron and the canon can not. The tokina can but it vignettes before 17mm. (making it a 17-24 lens). The Canon is the most expensive of the bunch and is only for the 30d, 20d, and rebel bodies. Can be a neg if you think full frame sensors are in your future, but I don't have my crystal ball handy. The Tokina I think had the best of blend of all the features, good price, wide enough, good optics. Only tradeoff is the CA and the flare. I am not a fan of Tamron, their lenses feel cheap in my hands and hare high on the plastic factor. The glass is fine, but if I am going to hold it and spend money on something, I want to enjoy it.

UWA photog is pretty fun, but it all depends on what and how you shoot. I have my 28-70 on the camera 60% of the time, the 12-24 10-15% and the 70-200 the rest of the time. If you want an UWA, get one,... but from my experience I use it less than my other lenses.... for what I shoot.

Remeber also that the 2mm diff between the canon and the rest of the field (1mm vs the tammy) is actually a pretty big difference. The Tokina's wide end is 20% narrower than the 10mm wide end on the Canon. That is a lot.

One board member said that you don't have a high res camera and that you don't need L glass. I think that is false. I guess nobody really NEEDS L glass, but it sure does help. Color, contrast, sharpness, focus speed, resistance to flare, all affect image quality (IQ). My brother still uses the 300D digital rebel because there is really not that much difference between IQ on that body vs the RebelXT, or the 20D, or even the 30D. I have an XT and don't see the need for the 20/30D for my needs, and for all intensive purposes, the sensors on the 3 camears are basically the same. My main point is that L glass may not make you a better photog, but it will make what comes out of your camera all that much better. Pictures have more punch, more pop, are sharper, require less PP, and are generally just 2-3 notches better with good glass.

RSO34 has great advice, I got to him for advice on this stuff as well. I think Akira3D also is spot on, although for me a 16-35 $1300 lens is not in the cards.

Last thought, some people say that UWA photog is a waste (for lack of a better term). They say they can take multipule exposures with a normal lens, get the same results but also benefit from less distortion and higher resolution. There are some really good panno software programs out there that can stich together pictures from even hand held shots. I did not go this rout, but you may want to consider this as well since it is a viable option.

Good luck, sorry for the novel.

a few reviews:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/lenses/Canon-10-22mm-test.shtml
http://www.photo.net/equipment/tokina/12-24-f4/
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/digital-wide-zooms/comparison.htm
 
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