I wouldnt run it any softer than in the middle. Preferably 2-5 clicks from full stiff.
KW V3 recomended settings
- Thread starter ken sampson
- Start date
Just got my KW V3 in. Getting ready to install them. Car will be driven on street but not a lot. Track settings should be?
I will adjust my front bar to stiff. And leave rear bar on soft. So front KW need to be 2.5 turns off of full hard? and rears in the middle about 5 turns? Just trying to clarify as much as possible before install.
I will adjust my front bar to stiff. And leave rear bar on soft. So front KW need to be 2.5 turns off of full hard? and rears in the middle about 5 turns? Just trying to clarify as much as possible before install.
I have been installing and playing around with my KW V3 and the factory recommend setting are pretty spot on for general use.
KW recommend is as follow
Rebound - Top of the strut
Front 9 clicks from full hard (turned clockwise to full hard)
Rear 7 clicks from full hard
Bump - Bottom of each strut
Front half of a Turn from full hard (looking at the bottom end straight on turned clockwise to full hard)
Rear 1 full turn from full hard
I would definitely change them to track and auto-x.
KW recommend is as follow
Rebound - Top of the strut
Front 9 clicks from full hard (turned clockwise to full hard)
Rear 7 clicks from full hard
Bump - Bottom of each strut
Front half of a Turn from full hard (looking at the bottom end straight on turned clockwise to full hard)
Rear 1 full turn from full hard
I would definitely change them to track and auto-x.
They updated the design so that it would be easier to adjust them. The functions are still the same though
Don't use the numbers as an indicator of the setting, other than as a reference. In other words, turn the dial all the way clockwise (towards the top in your picture). That's full hard. Then you can use the numbers as indicators of how much you've adjusted it. Older ones like mine, you have to just remember how much you're turning it while the newer ones like yours gives you visual feedback.
J
So in the picture I turned it all the way to "+" (clockwise) and then turned it back one notch.
Is this correct?
Then yes, the shock is one click from full hard.
The reason you shouldn't use the numbers as a value (other than to tell you that it's however many clicks from where you started) is because I think there's enough adjustment that you'll see "1" again if you continue to turn it counter-clockwise. But maybe I'm wrong :redface:
J
Can anyone recommend if I should buy 458# clubsport springs for the fronts or would you recommend I stick with the stock ones to match the standard valving? I am trying to imitate the Type R balance since I am replacing my Type R suspension. I have the Dali Track swaybar in the front, stock in the rear plus all the chassis reinforcement and non compiance stuff out there.
What if I kept the stock KW springs since I am effectively adding more spring rate in the front with my track bar and leaving the stock rear? Maybe that's the best way to go and use Billy's recommended settings (same f/r spring rates) from the other thread where he describes the responsive front end in post #18
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Mountain - aggressive setting
F Compression: 2-clicks/sweeps from full stiff
R Compression: 4-clicks/sweeps from full stiff
F Rebound: 3 clicks from full stiff
R Rebound 5 clicks from full stiff
This setting made for an extremely responsive front-end. With a lot of compression and rebound, the front of the car is razor-sharp and dead-flat. The added response in transitions from Right to Left and vice-versa were almost telepathic and very sporty. This setting felt like a much higher sprung car without the skipping ride qualities. This aggressive setting does transmit bumps a lot more into the car, making for a slightly rougher ride, but due to the soft rates and droop travel, the car never 'skips' across the ground even though you are more connected to the road and feel the bump more.
What if I kept the stock KW springs since I am effectively adding more spring rate in the front with my track bar and leaving the stock rear? Maybe that's the best way to go and use Billy's recommended settings (same f/r spring rates) from the other thread where he describes the responsive front end in post #18
---
Mountain - aggressive setting
F Compression: 2-clicks/sweeps from full stiff
R Compression: 4-clicks/sweeps from full stiff
F Rebound: 3 clicks from full stiff
R Rebound 5 clicks from full stiff
This setting made for an extremely responsive front-end. With a lot of compression and rebound, the front of the car is razor-sharp and dead-flat. The added response in transitions from Right to Left and vice-versa were almost telepathic and very sporty. This setting felt like a much higher sprung car without the skipping ride qualities. This aggressive setting does transmit bumps a lot more into the car, making for a slightly rougher ride, but due to the soft rates and droop travel, the car never 'skips' across the ground even though you are more connected to the road and feel the bump more.
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Are there any updates to this? I have a track day in just under 2 weeks, and need to properly adjust my coilovers for that event. Additionally, I have Comptech Sport anti-roll bars.
A good read here on settings:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...Spring-Packages-by-FX-Motorsports-Development
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http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...Spring-Packages-by-FX-Motorsports-Development
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So I have it in the # 1 setting for the rear coil over.
Is this one from full stiff?
Bumping an old thread. Just thought I'd chime in here because after an AutoX event, I wanted to double and triple check I had the settings correct since the settings for these are kind of confusing after KW updated the design to the one BATMANs has.
Just to be clear, KW still has the BASELINE settings as follows (from https://www.kwsuspensions.com/extras/docs/BBXQ/35250022-ea68577099.pdf)
Rebound - Top of the strut
Front 9 clicks from full hard (turned clockwise to full hard)
Rear 7 clicks from full hard
Bump - Bottom of each strut
Front half of a Turn from full hard (looking at the bottom end straight on turned clockwise to full hard)
Rear 1 full turn from full hard
If you have the newer KWv3 design like BATMANs shows, the bottom Bump/Compression adjustment is like this:
Bump - Bottom of each strut (on the newer design)
Front half of a Turn from full hard (looking at the bottom end straight on turned clockwise to full hard) which equals 3 Clicks (you'll see the number "3" showing)
Rear 1 full turn from full hard (which equals 6 clicks, you'll make one full revolution out, so you'll see the number "0" showing).
I'm not sure how that will affect all of the other posted settings here with regard to bump/compression but I assume only the bump/compression settings will be all off by 1 click from what they list.
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All I can say, is these things are a royal pain in the ass to set. Wheels off, crawl under car, and tinker.
The newer design (dials for the compression adjustment) is much more convenient and can be done without having to take the rear wheels off of or even raise the car. Even though I find compression more "set and forget" than rebound settings, the ability to take the car out on the road and quickly make compression adjustments to dial it in appropriately is a nice convenience.
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