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Just put in GM Friction Modified.

Stopped by the local Chevy dealer today. No problem getting the fluid. I used the 2 part FM - 1 part regular cocktail.

My car just reached 100k miles and the shifting has always been fine however I do notice it is smoother now.

The last fluid change was 20,000 miles ago and the Honda MTF was used. The fluid that came out was still clear and gold after all those miles for what it's worth.
 
If you've ever done an oil change you can change the tranny fluid.
It's as simple as simple as removing a drain bolt then opening the filler bolt and using an inexpensive plunger device with a short hose to suck the fluid from the containers and pump it into the car. The entire process takes 15 minutes.

If the dealer won't do it and you can't do it yourself, any competent shop with a lift can do it for you.

Just get a couple of new crush washers and let them know that the torque specs are 29 lb/ft for the drain bolt and 33 lb/ft for the filler bolt.
 
Pics of all you need!

Heres what I used. Did it myself with a floor jack. Jack the car so that both right side wheels are off the ground. Take off the back wheel. Have a torque wrench of course. Little tricky to get that wrench stroked but can be done. Just go slow and have fun with it! PM me or call me if you have any questions. 1-780-953-1744
Trev
 

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Wow! Thanks for the info. and help guys! This really is a first rate website! The reason I asked was because I'm going in to have my clutch replaced and I was thinking that at the same time, I might as well have the trans. fluids done! I've done quite a few oil changes (especialy when I had my TT rx-7:mad: ...damn oil sensitive rotaries), but I've never done a trans. before, but I saw my mechanic do it on my Rx-7, and filling up the diff. seemed like a pain in the butt! The cheap hand pump kept breaking and the hose kept popping off! I guess the liquids viscosity was a little too high for the little pump!
 
Spinner said:
The reason I asked was because I'm going in to have my clutch replaced and I was thinking that at the same time, I might as well have the trans. fluids done!
If you're going to have your clutch replaced anyway, and if you are experiencing some grinding/crunching (such as in upshifting to third gear), I would recommend having them inspect the synchros and hub selectors at the same time. And yes, changing the transmission fluid (which they normally do anyway as part of opening up the transmission, I think).
 
Re: Pics of all you need!

ffffanman said:
Heres what I used. Did it myself with a floor jack. Jack the car so that both right side wheels are off the ground. Take off the back wheel. Have a torque wrench of course. Little tricky to get that wrench stroked but can be done. Just go slow and have fun with it! PM me or call me if you have any questions. 1-780-953-1744
Trev
I assume you mean the passenger side of the car to help the fluid drain from the pan? Doesn't it make it a little more difficult to get at the drain plug?
Going to attempt it tomorrow and just want to make sure I have everything covered before starting.
 
I did it this morning, my first time changing the tranny fluid. It took me under an hour, and it was worth every penny. I definitely feel a difference. Much smoother shifts now, which allows me to row through the gears faster. I recommend this to all interested parties.
 
Nope, drivers side

Nope, jack up the drivers side.
Thats the side your working on!
Once you undo the fill plug and then the drain plug, in that order, then you can lower the jack so all the fluid comes out. Then jack it back up after a pop and fill. Just follow the great instructions in the Link except using the jack of course!
Trev
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/transoil/index.htm
 
I changed the fluid today...noticed smoother shifter driving down the block...wow what a difference...

it is so smooth now ...that i think that there is something broken inside my tranny...
 
did it

Changed my tranny oil with the following combo, 2qt FM Synchromesh,.5 qt Regular Synchromesh and .5 qt 20w50 Castrol GTX.

I'm still amazed at how easy they (NSX engineers) have made changing fluids!

Anyways. Do I need to have a break in period? Cause I don't feel much difference. I tested it and 3rd gear still gets that slight grind only in High RPMs.

Or is it my slight skeptical view of the mod?

-Val
 
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If the teeth on your hub selectors and synchros are worn down, no fluid in the world is going to change that...
 
Symptoms of synchro wear

I'm experiencing some grind/hesitation in high rpm shifts from 2nd to 3rd. Is there anything I can do (other than not to shift at high rpm) to lessen the issue? If I need to get this repaired, what am I looking at in terms of prices? Thanks.
 
SaberX said:
I'm experiencing some grind/hesitation in high rpm shifts from 2nd to 3rd. Is there anything I can do (other than not to shift at high rpm) to lessen the issue? If I need to get this repaired, what am I looking at in terms of prices?
It's caused by worn teeth on the hub selector and possibly on the synchro, as described here. The parts are relatively inexpensive - a few hundred bucks or so. The big expense is the labor, since it takes anywhere from 8 to 16 hours to open up the transmission, make changes, and put it back together.

If you can live with it, do. Maybe you can postpone it until you need other transmission work at the same time. Because of the labor involved, it makes sense to combine it with other tranny-related work, such as replacing the clutch, gearing modifications (short gears, ring and pinion), snap ring and case replacement for cars in the snap ring range, etc.
 
I changed my tran. fluid yesterday and still see the problems on 2nd to 3rd and once a while from 1st to 2nd. This happens right after I upgraded the type R R/P with short gears, brought it back to acura they told me that SHORT GEARS WITH RING AND PINION ARE AFTERMARKET PARTS AND THERE ARE NO WARRANTY ON IT, and during the installation they replaced my second synchro.
I am going to waits a bit longer to see the second synchro getting worst then I have another chat with the service manager.
 
nsxtasy said:
The big expense is the labor, since it takes anywhere from 8 to 16 hours to open up the transmission, make changes, and put it back together.

Does this time include pulling and reinstalling the tranny, or just the time spent working with the tranny on a bench?

Thanks
 
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92NSX said:
It seems to shift just fine to me. I guess I was expecting more.:confused:
For the record, I did mine about a week ago and didn't notice much change either. I was hoping it might help on the 1-2 shift but no luck. But it was time to change the fluid anyway so no real loss. I just followed the earlier instructions re: jacking car and removing driver side rear wheel and although there's not a lot of room, it wasn't difficult.
 
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