Is it better to grease the window tracks or WD-40 them?
Thank you.
Thank you.
Is it better to grease the window tracks or WD-40 them?
- Thread starter nsxotic911
- Start date
No
grease or wd-40 will only gum up your tracks use graphite powder or silican spray but be aware graphite is a black powder so make sure you only direct it onto track only and the same with the silican spray direct it only on the track .Hope this info is a help
Greg:smile:
grease or wd-40 will only gum up your tracks use graphite powder or silican spray but be aware graphite is a black powder so make sure you only direct it onto track only and the same with the silican spray direct it only on the track .Hope this info is a help
Greg:smile:
- Joined
- 19 October 2009
- Messages
- 55
exactly
Agree on the graphite powder. Sprinkle some on a ear swab (or dip the swab in the graphite container) and apply the graphite in the track. Works great.
If you must use grease or feel more comfortable with it, try Honda's Shin-Etsu. It'll come with a syringe that makes it easy to apply.
If you must use grease or feel more comfortable with it, try Honda's Shin-Etsu. It'll come with a syringe that makes it easy to apply.
If you are doing it while the tracks are still installed, then you will have a big mess on the bottom of the door. It might help you a little bit or for a couple of days, but I doubt it is a long term solution.
You really have to remove the tracks out of the car. I went three cans of silicone spray with the tracks out of the cars, and scrubbed vigerously. I'm not sure how you would do this installed. The old grease is really caked in there.
Removing the tracks are not easy. I had a hard time with the door lock rod, so as other people.
You really have to remove the tracks out of the car. I went three cans of silicone spray with the tracks out of the cars, and scrubbed vigerously. I'm not sure how you would do this installed. The old grease is really caked in there.
Removing the tracks are not easy. I had a hard time with the door lock rod, so as other people.
I've used the Shin-Etsu grease and the graphite and the graphite holds up much better. I've done twice since I got my car back from SOS and it's worked really well. However, I'd love to really get there and get the old caked on grease and stuff out.
vsy05, you should write up a DIY! In your opinion, is it a good weekend job?
vsy05, you should write up a DIY! In your opinion, is it a good weekend job?
Too bad I already did them on my 2 NSX. But I think about it the next time I do it.
I used Honda Hi-temp super urea grease. I'm not sure if it is the proper thing to use, but it seems to work very well. I use it on my guns also. It's been over 2 years now and it goes up and down very fast. Before this I would have to pull the window up with my hand.
The service manual does a great job detailing the removal of the the window rails.
The door opening rod gave me a lot of problems. And still does. I have to use an incredible amount of force to remove it. You will want to keep track of how the plastic and metal washer go. Go the dealer and buy the extra parts in case you break them. I'll see if I have the part number some where.
The only things I would add is to draw a line on the Allen bolt screw for reference, then count number of turns it takes to fully tighten it. Write it down. You will need this information to properly align the window or you will get wind noise.
The other thing that gives people problem is which way to orient the plastic white rail things that attach to the window glass. They don't go the way you would think. It should be very loose when they go in the rails. The spring side that compresses, go up and down, NOT sideways against the rails.
Follow the manual closely on how to remove the window trims. They will tell you where to pry with a flathead without breaking the trim. Again, look at it carefully.
It's not very hard to do if your familiar with taking off the door panels. Buy plenty of Slicone Spray. You can try engine degreaser also.
I used Honda Hi-temp super urea grease. I'm not sure if it is the proper thing to use, but it seems to work very well. I use it on my guns also. It's been over 2 years now and it goes up and down very fast. Before this I would have to pull the window up with my hand.
The service manual does a great job detailing the removal of the the window rails.
The door opening rod gave me a lot of problems. And still does. I have to use an incredible amount of force to remove it. You will want to keep track of how the plastic and metal washer go. Go the dealer and buy the extra parts in case you break them. I'll see if I have the part number some where.
The only things I would add is to draw a line on the Allen bolt screw for reference, then count number of turns it takes to fully tighten it. Write it down. You will need this information to properly align the window or you will get wind noise.
The other thing that gives people problem is which way to orient the plastic white rail things that attach to the window glass. They don't go the way you would think. It should be very loose when they go in the rails. The spring side that compresses, go up and down, NOT sideways against the rails.
Follow the manual closely on how to remove the window trims. They will tell you where to pry with a flathead without breaking the trim. Again, look at it carefully.
It's not very hard to do if your familiar with taking off the door panels. Buy plenty of Slicone Spray. You can try engine degreaser also.
Last edited:
Guys,
If your windows are really sluggish the rails and window need to come out and clean all of the old lube off. The window has four, two front and two rear, guides that run up and down in the window channel. The problem with trying to clean the channel with the channels in the car is the opening is to the outside of the door. I use brake parts cleaner to clean the channels. You need something that will cut the old lube.
I think that after cleaning the channels and the window guides that a light coat of Honda urea hi-temp grease is a good solution. When I say a light coat that is all that is needed. Consider that the window doesn't move fast and really not a lot. I would almost consider putting it back together dry. That's how much lube it needs.
Brad
If your windows are really sluggish the rails and window need to come out and clean all of the old lube off. The window has four, two front and two rear, guides that run up and down in the window channel. The problem with trying to clean the channel with the channels in the car is the opening is to the outside of the door. I use brake parts cleaner to clean the channels. You need something that will cut the old lube.
I think that after cleaning the channels and the window guides that a light coat of Honda urea hi-temp grease is a good solution. When I say a light coat that is all that is needed. Consider that the window doesn't move fast and really not a lot. I would almost consider putting it back together dry. That's how much lube it needs.
Brad
- Joined
- 10 February 2009
- Messages
- 368
My driver side window was extremely sluggish, and was making the popping noise as it went back up. I have a 1992 so I made the assumption that I needed the dali window fix it kit. After removing the door panel I noticed that the dealer had already replaced the window regulator per Technical Service Bulletin 93-004 (for 1991-93 model years).
Unfortunately the installer used the incorrect grease, and saturated my tracks with it.
Brad (OLDMNSX) was in town and helped me remove the window from the door frame, the tracks had grease dating back to 1992 caked on and gobs of additional grease smeared over the guides. I used PB Blaster and cleaned them off (messy). Then applied the correct Honda UREA Hi-temp Grease (green). Brad helped me reinstall the window and it has been excellent ever since.
We're supposed to do the other door possibly this month, if so I will take a bunch of photos.
Unfortunately the installer used the incorrect grease, and saturated my tracks with it.
Brad (OLDMNSX) was in town and helped me remove the window from the door frame, the tracks had grease dating back to 1992 caked on and gobs of additional grease smeared over the guides. I used PB Blaster and cleaned them off (messy). Then applied the correct Honda UREA Hi-temp Grease (green). Brad helped me reinstall the window and it has been excellent ever since.
We're supposed to do the other door possibly this month, if so I will take a bunch of photos.
shawn110975
Suspended
I just did mine and got a whole can of High Temp Grease in a jar, lubed the sh_t outta the tracks,, windows go up 10 times faster,, about 6-7 seconds!! and when i say lubed the heck outta them,, I mean i used half a can per window, cupped my fingers in the can and pressed a handful of lube till the tracks were stuffed to the brim! LOL I am going to clean them all out soon and do it correctly but It was fun!!
Last edited:
I tried using some types of grease on previous cars in the past and although the windows were noticeably faster after.. it gunked up in no time. I wouldn't use graphite spray because I'm just not very good at aiming that thing. It blackens everything!
Clean it first of any noticeable debris and gunk. Go with Dry Silicone Spray. I've used it for years. Goes on DRY and last a few years. I'm in SoCal so your mileage may vary...
btw.. keep in mind WD40 was developed as a water repellent. its not really a very good lubricant. it just happens to work as one for some applications.
Clean it first of any noticeable debris and gunk. Go with Dry Silicone Spray. I've used it for years. Goes on DRY and last a few years. I'm in SoCal so your mileage may vary...
btw.. keep in mind WD40 was developed as a water repellent. its not really a very good lubricant. it just happens to work as one for some applications.
Last edited:
My drivers window was agonizedly slow.
I conducted an experiment: My regulator cable broke. I replaced ONLY the regulator and the window starting moving normal fast. The old regulator transport assembly moved just fine.
Conclusion: the window motor gets tired and needs to be replaced/rebuilt.
A GIS shows that the Legend appears to use the same motor (different assembly) and I would presume that 3 of the 4 motors are probably still good. I would recommend trying out a replacement motor.
I was unable to locate a new motor source.
Drew
I conducted an experiment: My regulator cable broke. I replaced ONLY the regulator and the window starting moving normal fast. The old regulator transport assembly moved just fine.
Conclusion: the window motor gets tired and needs to be replaced/rebuilt.
A GIS shows that the Legend appears to use the same motor (different assembly) and I would presume that 3 of the 4 motors are probably still good. I would recommend trying out a replacement motor.
I was unable to locate a new motor source.
Drew
The problem with using liquid lubes like WD-40 is they eventually drip down and collect in the bottom of the door cavity. LarryB used Honda Hi-Temp grease on my tracks last year and the windows go like butter. Well, for an NSX anyway... 
Although the window motor plays into the speed of the window going up and down, I conclude it is not the source of most of our problems.
Once you remove the window tracks and look at the window guides you will see why your windows will not go up fast or not at all. The old grease is really caked on there.
Replacing the motor might help it in the short-term but if it is fighting against the caked grease in the rails and guide, the motor will get tired and you will have to replace it again.
- Joined
- 15 May 2004
- Messages
- 6,898
I've relubricated the window rails today. It took 3 hours without removing the rails. Brakecleaner did the job. I think I've removed 95% or the old cooked graphite grease out. The outer rails are very hard to clean but I used some tricks to 'clean around the corner'. You need thin fingers to do it. A thin layer of Shin-Etsu finished the job.
Up-time before: 7 seconds
After cleaning: 5 seconds
With Shin-Etsu: 4 seconds
all times without the engine running. Also remarkable: The windows never closed fully without the engine running before. Now, they do.
Up-time before: 7 seconds
After cleaning: 5 seconds
With Shin-Etsu: 4 seconds
all times without the engine running. Also remarkable: The windows never closed fully without the engine running before. Now, they do.
My passenger window was frustratingly slow to roll up and inconsistent in terms of speed of it rolling up. It would go up, then hesitate/struggle (you could hear the additional load on the motor/regulator) then go up a little further, struggle more until it was finally up.
A few weeks ago I heard popping noises and the window would no longer roll up.
As I replaced the door fixit thingy (metal clip replacing the brittle plastic one), motor and cables with a used one, I tried pulling the window up by hand and I felt the hard spots where the motor was struggling. It was actually quite hard and was somewhat jamming in areas and its no wonder the window took forever to go up.
I never really cleaned the rails much more than a quick wipe with a shop towel, but I applied the Honda Hi-Temp Urea Grease liberally to the forward and rear track. The window now slid up and down by hand very smoothly without hanging up atall. Now my new used motor regulator has no problem rolling the window up or down with ease and very quickly.
I also replaced the drivers side window clip with the fix-it thingy from Dali Racing.
I bought the whole package of fixit door thingies and the jar of the Urea grese and used the whole thing between the driver and passenger door rails. It works perfectly weeks later and I wouldn't have done it any other way.
The Urea Grease looks like the factory grease that was in there. Over my cars 18yr life, the grease was pushed out of some areas with 'dry spots' where it hung up on. Using a lot of Urea Grease did the trick for me.
Edit: You can grease the tracks with just the door panel off, but you have to reach behind the door and speaker to get to the front track (difficult if you have big or short arms) but it can be done.
Billy
A few weeks ago I heard popping noises and the window would no longer roll up.
As I replaced the door fixit thingy (metal clip replacing the brittle plastic one), motor and cables with a used one, I tried pulling the window up by hand and I felt the hard spots where the motor was struggling. It was actually quite hard and was somewhat jamming in areas and its no wonder the window took forever to go up.
I never really cleaned the rails much more than a quick wipe with a shop towel, but I applied the Honda Hi-Temp Urea Grease liberally to the forward and rear track. The window now slid up and down by hand very smoothly without hanging up atall. Now my new used motor regulator has no problem rolling the window up or down with ease and very quickly.
I also replaced the drivers side window clip with the fix-it thingy from Dali Racing.
I bought the whole package of fixit door thingies and the jar of the Urea grese and used the whole thing between the driver and passenger door rails. It works perfectly weeks later and I wouldn't have done it any other way.
The Urea Grease looks like the factory grease that was in there. Over my cars 18yr life, the grease was pushed out of some areas with 'dry spots' where it hung up on. Using a lot of Urea Grease did the trick for me.
Edit: You can grease the tracks with just the door panel off, but you have to reach behind the door and speaker to get to the front track (difficult if you have big or short arms) but it can be done.
Billy
Last edited:
WD40 is not a lubricant, it is, literally, Water Displacement formula 40. It was developed in WWII to save metal parts from rusting in the war theater.
Yes, but it is an oil that can lubricate.
WD40 is often used to lubricate the main axle bearings of pro shifterkarts, and I used it for that purpose as well.
Wiki: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
Function
The long term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus get into crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then itself diffuses away.[citation needed]
These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, extricating stuck screws and bolts, and preventing rust are common usages. The product also may be useful in removing moisture.
From what I have learned with our window regulator and rail guide system is you need to remove all of the old grease that has dried out and is now more of a sticky paste than a lubricant. I prefer to use the Honda grease and very SPARINGLY at that. The rails and guides will never OVERHEAT from use and so don't need to be packed like WHEEL BEARINGS! Use whatever lubricant you like.....you just need to clean it first.
In order to do a complete clean, the window and rails have to come out of the door. The guides that are attached to the window need to have all of the old grease removed from them. These guides are very easily disassembled and cleaned.
Look at the picture in the maintenance manual for reassembly. It shows which one of the guides is different from the other three and which way is "UP". Look closely and you will see what I am talking about. There is a good possibility that the guides are not as shown in the manual when you take it apart. Somebody has probably already been there before you. (Have you ever been in that situation before?)
Brad
In order to do a complete clean, the window and rails have to come out of the door. The guides that are attached to the window need to have all of the old grease removed from them. These guides are very easily disassembled and cleaned.
Look at the picture in the maintenance manual for reassembly. It shows which one of the guides is different from the other three and which way is "UP". Look closely and you will see what I am talking about. There is a good possibility that the guides are not as shown in the manual when you take it apart. Somebody has probably already been there before you. (Have you ever been in that situation before?)
Brad
Last edited:
Honda service normally use "White lithium grease" for all their customer vehicles. It comes in a can with a straw so you can easily spray directly into the side sliders.
OLDMNSX, (Brad) is right. Clean all the grease out well and then a thin coating of Honda grease is all it takes.
A side note from experience.
The sliders that follow the aluminum tracks are teflon and if they don't stay in a clean environment they will start to stick.
Some may know there is a particular helicopter, (Huey/ Bell 212) that has an exact slider / teflon set up for its sliding doors.
They "Always" stick. Mine doesn't!
For the one that i've been familliar with for the last while I use the same system as the NSX as "IT WORKS".
After a THIN coat of Honda grease, get a spray can of "TRI-FLO" bicycle chain lube and drown the tracks with it.
It's a teflon based lube that won't attract dirt and the windows will fly up the tracks !!
The light coat of grease helps hold it there and it will last a long time.
Cheers
nigel
A side note from experience.
The sliders that follow the aluminum tracks are teflon and if they don't stay in a clean environment they will start to stick.
Some may know there is a particular helicopter, (Huey/ Bell 212) that has an exact slider / teflon set up for its sliding doors.
They "Always" stick. Mine doesn't!
For the one that i've been familliar with for the last while I use the same system as the NSX as "IT WORKS".
After a THIN coat of Honda grease, get a spray can of "TRI-FLO" bicycle chain lube and drown the tracks with it.
It's a teflon based lube that won't attract dirt and the windows will fly up the tracks !!
The light coat of grease helps hold it there and it will last a long time.
Cheers
nigel
Last edited:
THANK YOU PRIME COMMUNITY!
I bought a 91 a few months back, and ever since I bought it, I would never roll the passenger window down because i would need someone in the passenger seat to pull it up to roll it up. Everyone said I would need a new regulator, but I didn't want to spend the $400 or so.
After reading this thread, I decided to give lubricating the slides a try. I went to Tony Honda on Oahu to buy the UREA grease. ($15). Took off my door panel, and found the rails. I ran my finger along side the rails, and could feel the old grease caked up along the whole length of both rails. It felt almost like running my fingers along a rough towel.
I took a microfiber cloth with some "goo gone" to clean the rails and get them smooth again. I didn't not have to take the rails off. I took off my door speakers (aftermarket from previous owner) and I was able to get to both rails perfectly from the speaker hole, and openings in the door skeleton.
After both was clean, I used the UREA grease and applied them with my fingers, very lightly. I didn't use much at all.
And now, 2 hours and $15 later, my window rolls up and down with no problems!
Here is some pics of the rails I took with my camera phone, so if you try this, you know what to look for.
Rail located towards rear of vehicle:
Rail located towards front of vehicle:
I bought a 91 a few months back, and ever since I bought it, I would never roll the passenger window down because i would need someone in the passenger seat to pull it up to roll it up. Everyone said I would need a new regulator, but I didn't want to spend the $400 or so.
After reading this thread, I decided to give lubricating the slides a try. I went to Tony Honda on Oahu to buy the UREA grease. ($15). Took off my door panel, and found the rails. I ran my finger along side the rails, and could feel the old grease caked up along the whole length of both rails. It felt almost like running my fingers along a rough towel.
I took a microfiber cloth with some "goo gone" to clean the rails and get them smooth again. I didn't not have to take the rails off. I took off my door speakers (aftermarket from previous owner) and I was able to get to both rails perfectly from the speaker hole, and openings in the door skeleton.
After both was clean, I used the UREA grease and applied them with my fingers, very lightly. I didn't use much at all.
And now, 2 hours and $15 later, my window rolls up and down with no problems!
Here is some pics of the rails I took with my camera phone, so if you try this, you know what to look for.
Rail located towards rear of vehicle:
Rail located towards front of vehicle:
Few year update: my windows are a bit slow again. Will have to open and examine.
If any of you who did this back when this thread started in 2010 wanted to give an update to your grease/clean/spray method and how it's holding up, I'd love to know that before I tackle mine in the next few weeks.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Similar threads
