Instaling of Taitec manifolds - bandage needed?

Joined
22 June 2007
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215
Location
St. Petersburg, Russia
Dear NSXOwners,

I've got a question for you - received Taitec manifolds that are made of steel. Is it needed to bandage it with asbestos? Since OEM screens does not fit the Taitec manifolds....

Pleased to hear...
 
No need to wrap them, just install them, you are OK.

Regards,
LarryB
 
Finally I did it... And it looks nice!

I have much of advices - better. The reasons are:
1. Rear mainfold is right under the oil pan - the oil will be not heated
2. The better temperature ballance - less heat emission better performance
3. No affection of rain/drops/outside temperature - life is longer.

I purchased two box of Bandage 15m length on 50mm width - remain small piece. The price was EUR 60 per box.

Best Regards/Gleb
 

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those zip ties will melt.

get metal ties. you can also coat the headers with heat paint to prevent water from getting in. also .. did you wear gloves while doing the heat wrap. :eek: or are you itching right now :biggrin:

happy motoring

Rob:smile:
 
those zip ties will melt.

get metal ties. you can also coat the headers with heat paint to prevent water from getting in. also .. did you wear gloves while doing the heat wrap. :eek: or are you itching right now :biggrin:

happy motoring

Rob:smile:

OFC those zip ties were temporarly. You may see metal on installed. OFC gloves were worn. :eek:
 
The best answer is box them and ship them to Jet-Hot Coatings. They will coat inside and outside of pipes and shorties for $220 and your eng compartment temp will drop by half.
After I mounted mine you can virtually shut off the eng and reach under and grab the pipe and not get severly burned and maimed. I suggest not doing it but they are damn cool compared to production temps.
They also say you gain three h.p. by containing the heat in the pipe as it helps with the extraction of the gasses through the pipe. Physics or something.
It's to bad you can't see them after they're mounted because they're truely a work of art. They don't stain and show colour change with temp so far. You don't have to worry about the coating coming off and the gurantee is great.

Cheers
nigel
 
1. Rear mainfold is right under the oil pan - the oil will be not heated

You can solve that problem by simply inserting a thermal shield between the header and the pan.


2. The better temperature ballance - less heat emission better performance

Well it does two things. One is lower engine bay temps. However, you can reduce radiant heat better with a good in and out ceramic coating. So, the real reason to wrap is maybe a couple of hp. By trapping the heat in, yes that is ideal from a performance perspective as it increases the 'speed' of exhaust flow due to density. You have to adequately wrap the header to keep enough heat in to be effective however, which leads to your next point...



3. No affection of rain/drops/outside temperature - life is longer.

False. Absolutely not true. Actually it traps moisture which can rust or corrode, which is why some people have been known to spray silicon sealer on it. In practice, it probably will turn that expensive $1500 Taitec header into a maintainable item that you may need to begin to regularly replace. What that interval is I am not sure. It depends on usage and how well built the part is among other factors.

The big downside to trapping the heat in- is it will tend to disintegrate the steel in relatively short order by burning it up. Not a problem for pro teams, whom completely disassembly and re-build their rides every race or every season. Your experience may differ.

Remember, a common misconception- EGT's are just as high NA as FI. Stock the manifold will glow red on the third pull at 8000RPM. It is a lot of heat to lock-in especially if you over-wrap. Couple that with stock engine mounts or hard track use and I could well see it becoming an issue. I've destroyed exhausts tracking from heat and stress that weren't wrapped; they tend to fail just past the welds at the weakest points. Wrapping will greatly accelerate this.

Also, if you do decide to wrap, make sure your plugs and gaskets are good. As some of the WRX guys found out if you drip oil on it can eventually catch fire.


References:

Why not to wrap:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-header-heat-wraps-do-not-use-spg-138.html
 
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In order to reduce the amount of heat getting radiated into the oil pan, I bought some stainless steel headers, had the vendor (Science of Speed) ship them to High Performance Coatings for a HiPerCoat Extreme ceramic coating, and then they were shipped to me. After installing them, I loosely clamped a Thermo-Tec heat shield around the front header where it passes by the oil pan. I'm not sure whether there's still enough heat getting by for the Thermo-Tec adhesive-backed heat barrier I slapped onto the oil pan by the header to do any good. In any case, as the oil gets hot in the oil pan, the adhesive gets soft and the heat barrier separates from the oil pan.
 

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Just wondering: Is the HPC coating $1200 for a Taitec header as SOS states on their website?
 
Thanks to all! Appreciate it. However what done - is done, and I will check it out after 2-3 months of use.

OFF - You know what happend? While vehicle was in service, the brake fluid flew out of the brake fluid container- we think the reason is ABS bulb membrana crack. Thanks god it happend not on da street. From the other hand NA2 ABS system with conversion harness already in Finland and soon will be here, thus I will not wait a month or so. Understood that after 10-12 years of use it might happend like this. Be prepared. In case on the street - better to have good boots to brake with 'boot pads'. :confused:
 
hey john
which header are u using now?

Taitec. Equal length primaries.



u think the comptech one will last without the coating?

More than likely, you probably don't need to coat your headers unless you are actively tracking the vehicle for prolonged periods of time and trying to break out all the stops to best control operating temps. Even on cool days 145-160C + oil temps stock appear to be quite common and every little bit you can do to manage heat in a race car helps.

On the street, more than likely you won't be getting it hot enough, long enough to count. The possible upside, is it may prolong the life of your engine bay harnesses and electronics.

Best bet- just drop off your headers, pipes, exhaust, etc... at a local coater and have it all done in one shot. Probably a couple hundred bucks so long as you don't tell them what kind of car it is off of.... which in the grand scheme of things is not a big deal given how much are manifolds cost. No need to send them to a internet retailer whom will simply do the same thing, but then charge you shipping plus more for the same service.

Local racers in your area will likely be able to point you in the right direction if you decide to pursue a coating.

Cheers,

John
 
What do you guys think about Deep Cryo Treatment of the headers? You should be able to get the same benefits as ceramic coating them vs deep cryo treatment right? Its all about the heat resistance! :tongue:

http://www.cryogenicsinternational.com/auto.htm

I'm going to get this done on my brakes very soon...
 
What do you guys think about Deep Cryo Treatment of the headers? You should be able to get the same benefits as ceramic coating them vs deep cryo treatment right? Its all about the heat resistance! :tongue:

http://www.cryogenicsinternational.com/auto.htm

I'm going to get this done on my brakes very soon...

keep it simple.

cryotreat your gears, not your headers :smile:
 
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