i think i broke my belt..... help

[NSXRguy]

tonight is one of those really bad nights ive had

i was having a spirited drive tonight, shifted about 7k on 2nd gear to 3rd, im not too sure if i still got on it in 3rd, i might have, but i do know i started slowing down for a car in front and i felt my car loose power. pressing on the gas did nothing. CEL went off the electronics of the car were still on. i immediately pulled over. i heard nothing, or felt anything that could have cause the problem. i coasted to the shoulder

i try cranking the car and it doesnt start. according to my friend who was right behind me, as soon as i started going full throttle, i had some greyish smoke come out (i run test pipes with the stock ctsc setup) and i spit a flame out. i have no idea if this is a normal thing for me as i have never had anybody tell me this before.

i have no leaks. i checked my dipstick and i dont see it to be creamy. the car cranks fine, i dont hear any horrible grinding noises but it doesnt start.

i have about 93xxx miles on it, and was definitely due for a belt change. i just acted like an idiot child today and i think that cost me my timing belt, and possible the whole motor.

i dont see any debris in the engine bay, or anything hanging from the bottom, but ill have to recheck again in the morning.

if i did break the belt, is there anyway to gauge what kind of damage im looking out without taking off the head? im planning on checking my plugs and lifting the valve cover for a quick peek.

if it is the belt, based from what i described, how bad could the damage be?

 

[jqd84983]

If the belt has gone pretty catastrophic to the cylinder head. You will likely be looking at valve and piston damage at least. I am pretty sure that the NSX engine does not have clearance between the TDC of the pistons and the valves

Sorry mate tough break and why cam belt changes are essential

Regards

John

 

[goldNSX]

if it is the belt, based from what i described, how bad could the damage be?

Noone on this forum can tell you over the internet IF the TB cracked or jumped and how much $$$$ it will be. The second one can range from a TB job (as you should have done it anyway) to buying an engine and/or CTSC.

Guys, feel free to post your speculation!

Seriously: I'd bring the car to a mechanic. He should check if the TB skipped before any more self-testing which can only worsen things. It can be a simple thing but at least you should some $$$$ ready for the TB job anyway.

 

[s14_tat]

if your car cranks but keeps on cranking at a faster than normal speed like its not building compression than i'm 100% sure that something happend to your timing belt.

 

[cmc140]

My guess is you didn't blow the T-Belt. Sounds like you blew the 15 amp fuse inline with the fuel pump, which is part of the Comptech boost-a-pump wiring. It's behind the driver's seat, on the firewall, in a black fuse holder.
All the best,
Chris

 

[drew]

1. Don't Panic. If you are upset WALK AWAY, this is so important. Make nice with your deity of choice, talk to a candle or play xbox; whatever it takes to get your mind clear. (also order a compression checker).

2. Perform a compression check. This will tell you quickly if have any catastrophic engine problems. If a belt slipped or broke, it will show up quick in these numbers.

Complete timing belt failures DO happen, but they are rare.

3. If you have compression: woot! Now all you have to do is check for spark and fuel. Get the car up and running AND then do a timing belt replacement, if required.

 

[socalx]

from what you describe, i don't think you broke your belt.

the key is you say that the car still cranks and turns over. if the car had lost the belt wen you crank the piston would be hitting the valves and the car would not turn over

i am guessing either
a)you lost something in the iginition system. (igniter ,)
b)you lost the fuel pump or fuse

you need to get a code reader and plug it into the diagnostic port and see what codes are saved and we can help once you post those up

 

[shawn110975]

Sorry to hear that you were acting childish, at least you know what you did was wrong and hope you never do it again,, racing that ugly civic with loud mufflers,, was it really worth it? anyway if the timing belt broke while in such high RPMS, then there will be damage to the valves, while some are opened and some are closed the piston will have beatin the sh_t outta the open valves, I remember I broke mu timing belt on my brothers 1995 legend, and that was what had happened,they had to rebuild the heads and the out the door bill was 3500.00 bucks,,, and since its an NSX it will probably cost alot more,, the do the timing belt at the dealership will run you around 2500.00 including waterpump,, when you get your NSX fixed dont race ugly civics again!! you have one of the best looking cars out there and when they revvvvv their engines at you smile and let them tear their car up dont fall victim to pressure,, but if an american car revvs at you DOG them for all of us NSX owners!! " hemi is for girls " but it probably a few teeth are missing on the belt

 

[Nick675]

Did you take another look yet? Autozone or Advance Auto can lend you an ODB-II diagnostic reader.

I agree with the ignition/fuel if you aren't hearing weird noises on crank. I hope it's not bent valves and pistons.

Keep us posted.

 

[NSXRguy]

Ok guys

i have the following codes

p0108
p1316
p1317

car cranks but not turn on. Ive still got to check the plugs and timing belt under the valve cover.

I checked mu fuel gauge and when i tutn to kry to acc, it goes to 55psi then quickly jumps down to 30psi. when i crank once it jumped back to 50. The supercharger pulley spun a little bit. Now my battery is too weak to crank the car over.

 

[passline]

Call Larry B. and describe this. You are in NJ, if you need to tow it to him, I found the U-Haul tandem wheel trailer is a life saver at $50/day as long as you have a tow vehicle. A flatbed could be $350 or more depending where in NJ you reside. Maybe the TB just jumped a notch. You may need to open it up to inspect?

 

[NSXRguy]

Will a jumped belt cause a motor to die while moving and not start? Will a cel cause a car to not start but crank?

 

[goldNSX]

Will a jumped belt cause a motor to die while moving and not start?

Will depend on how many teeth... The codes will help you. As for the fuel pressure behaviour: that is completely normal besides the fact that you see 55 psi (ok, you have CTSC). 38-42 psi is normal. But that's surely not the problem of the engine not starting as the fuel pump IS working.

Call Larry B. and describe this.

Best thing said so far in this thread.

 

[drew]

Will a jumped belt cause a motor to die while moving and not start?

Yes. Checking for the mere existence of a timing belt will tell you little.

You need to get a compression check to determine if the cams and crank are still in sync. You even get to check the plugs while you do this (though I don't know what you're looking for).

Will a cel cause a car to not start but crank?

No. BTW: It is a MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) not a CEL.

Drew

 

[ftuhy]

Per my 1995/1996 manual:

P0108 = open in MAP sensor circuit or bad MAP sensor or bad ECM
P1316 = Front bank (2) spark plug voltage detection circuit malfunction - open or short in spark plug voltage detection module circuit or failure of the spark plug detection module or ECM failure
P1317 = same as P1316 for the rear bank (1)

Looking at the above, the common thread is the ECM, and that also possibly (per the manual) can relate to not being able to start the car.

Of course the manual's diagnostic procedures for all 3 of the above codes begin with: start the engine and hold at 3,000 RPM. Not much help with your "won't start" problem.

As others have suggested, have you done a compression check yet? That will provide some clues about the status of the timing belt.

I can at least help you look for opens/shorts in the wiring and connectors, etc before you do more serious things such as putting it on a flatbed to Larry's.

PM me to figure out how far apart we live in NJ.


PS - A few friends have told me that for the early years of Boxsters, CEL = change engine light

 

[NSXRguy]

Ive talked to larry

ill be checking my plugs and lift the valve cover to check the timing belt if its even there and chrck compression

at this point im hoping my timing belt is still there for possiblr skipped teeth, clean plugs, and some compression

wish me luck guys. Will update when i can

 

[mlambert890]

Was it on the original belt?

 

[NSXRguy]

previous owner told me belt was changed, but i dont have any documentation of it, thats why i planned on doing it again.

if it really was changed, then thats a plus...


i remember that when i was wot on 2nd gear, i had some occasional hesitations but it still pulled away. when i shifted to 3rd gear, i remember i was slowing down so im not too sure if i stayed in 3rd or upshifted to 5th. one i do know 100% is that i did not misshift.

at this point, i really dont have an answer til i do my compression test, which ill need to either get a brand new battery or jump it so i can actually crank the car. i do know that during the many times we tried cranking the car while i was on the shoulder, i DID NOT hear any griding noises.

 

[NSXRguy]

if your car cranks but keeps on cranking at a faster than normal speed like its not building compression than i'm 100% sure that something happend to your timing belt.

i think it was cranking at normal speed...

 

[tbromley]

Doesn't sound like a broken belt at all. It's something else. If you had broken the belt you'd have heard some bad noises out of that engine at high rpms. No doubt.

BTW, CEL in Porsche lingo is "check engine light" not change engine light. It tells you you've had a malfunction and that something is not working properly - other lights come on too depending on what it is. I know my CEL came on and it was OBII and the engine computer told me via codes what it was. Our NSXs just have another name for the same thing.

Good luck, Larry B is a great resource. You're lucky you live up there near him.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Ryan and I have gone over his situation.

A quick compression test will tell the "health" of his engine. It is really quite simple, either the compresion is "0" and it is bad news, or it is fine, then we solve the electrical issue.

There is really no point in bothering removing the valve covers etc. Just do the comp test.

Hopefully it reveals good news.

Regards,
LarryB

 

[paladin]

BTW, CEL in Porsche lingo is "check engine light" not change engine light.

I guess irony is lost on some folks :biggrin:

 

[NSXRguy]

I have some good news. I just save a bunch of money on my car insurance with Esurance =)

on a more serious note...

I was able to remove the valve covet and the timing belt is still there!!! I dont see any obvious signs of cracking or missing teeth. There is some play with the belt but im not sure if thats normal or not

the plugs also look great (silvery color tip) and no sign of any metal specks at all.

Keep in mind i only lifted the front valve cover since its tge easiest just to check for any remains of a timing belt

next up us the compression test.

Pics of plugs and belt cpming soon...

 

[anesthesia]

that is good news, keep us posted, interested to see what the problems is.

 

[goldNSX]

Keep in mind i only lifted the front valve cover since its tge easiest just to check for any remains of a timing belt

Keep in mind that the TB can be missing on the rear if you have seen it on the front. :tongue:

One guy more who don't listen to LarryB.