I f'ed up...

[ak]

Hi guys, I just installed H&R/Koni yesterday and kinda f'ed up on the left rear... I was putting some leverage on the lower control arm to lower the assembly and sure enough, I damaged the lower control arm. It doesn't seem to be bent but the part where I put pressure is deformed(the top is now flat where I put pressure). I didn't know this thing was hollow!

I was wondering how much stress the lower control arm goes through...I think it's ok for the time being but I guess I should replace it so much for saving money on the labor!

 

[nsxtasy]

so much for saving money on the labor!

There are many reasons for NOT doing a job yourself unless you know exactly what you are doing, have seen it done before, and have all the proper tools and equipment for the job. And the possibility of not doing the job right, and even damaging your car, is certainly among them.

 

[ak]

Well now I know exactly what not to do I just like to work on my car because I get satisfaction out of it even if I did something bad

 

[LJSB]

Now you will look at your next project with a bit more educated eye. It's called experience.

 

[ncdogdoc]

Make sure you really did damage, as the lower A-arm does have a flattened area in the middle of one "leg" of the A, and it looks like it should not be there. I ordered a new one from Niello thinking mine was bent or damaged, and it turns out that is the way it is made. Check against the other side, and better yet, check another car. Mine was on the left side, and as I recall, the right lower arm is different.

 

[ak]

Make sure you really did damage, as the lower A-arm does have a flattened area in the middle of one "leg" of the A, and it looks like it should not be there. I ordered a new one from Niello thinking mine was bent or damaged, and it turns out that is the way it is made. Check against the other side, and better yet, check another car. Mine was on the left side, and as I recall, the right lower arm is different.

hey doc, the part you are talking about is where I thought I did damage...I'll have to look at other people's nsx to figure out if I did do damage. Thanks for the headsup. Does anyone have pic?

 

[ANYTIME]

I can take a quick pic of mine, tell me which angle I should shoot from.
John

 

[ak]

I can take a quick pic of mine, tell me which angle I should shoot from.
John

Rear left lower control arm. close up on the left half would be nice. thanks a bunch!

 

[ak]

Can someone still take pic and post it here? I had the opportunity to look at other NSXes this weekend and I completely forgot.

 

[Lud]

Just FYI, if you press down on the rotor/hub assembly, you shouldn't need to pry against anything.

If nobody has a picture for you by tomorrow, I'll snap one of mine.

 

[nsxbadboy]

Why dont you just look at the control arm on the other side? It should have a corresponding flat spot as well.

Joe

 

[jorligan]

When it comes to doing the struts, some have said all you have to do is push while others have had to use a pry bar. I did my car, a 98, and I had to use a 5 foot steel pipe to adequately depress the lower assembly. Even if I stood on the hub/rotor, I couldn't get it to lower. I helped someone else with their 92 and all we had to do was push with our hands. Maybe something different with the actual suspensions vs the age of the components.

Tim

 

[Larry Bastanza]

jorligan,

I do agree with your point about age. I have a 1991. At the time I did my struts to car had about 20K miles. Let me tell you, it was no easy push of the rotor, front or rear.

For the front I actually removed the camber bolt and had the lower a-arm drop. Simple to do, and you need an alignment anyway if you change springs. This requires no pushing, prying, etc, front strut comes right out.

In the rear I used a good sized crowbar that I covered with a few layers of electrical tape to protect the lower a-arm. I took one person to hold the a-arm down, while I moved the strut out of it's boss. Also not an easy push of the rotor by any means.

I think this all has to do with the stiffness of the bushings, which does relates to age, mileage, and climate. My thought on the rear would be to loosen the camber bolts, so the rear suspension lower bushings are not fighting you when you push the rotor down, rather it just pivots freely on the lower bolts. This would releive about half the resistance IMO.

I know when doing a clutch and removing the lower bushing bolts, to drop the rear a-arm, the rear suspension moves fairly easy.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[j14nsx]

I replaced my springs/dampers with only one corner of the car jacked up as I worked on it. I too had a hard time pushing the rotor down so I removed the nearest anti-roll bar bush. Figuring it was the anti-roll bar that was keeping the suspension 'up'. That helped, but I also used spring compressors on the springs, to help remove them. There was the danger of a compressor flying off and going through my head of course!

I managed the job by myself, by pushing down on the rotor with my chest while pulling out the springs/dampers. Not a comfortable position to be in!

I believe the flat part of the lower wishbone is only on the left wishbone.

 

[Lud]

I never said it was easy, only that it is an option and (IMO) preferred if you are not changing ride height of the car so you don't have to realign anything. I'd recommend 2 people - one who is heavy to stand on the rotor and one who knows how to angle things just right (this is key). I've done it this way on about 4 cars ranging from '91 to '98 and know many others who have done it as well. Your mileage may vary. If you are changing height, it is probably easier to partially disassemble since you'll have to align it anyway.

 

[ak]

In my case, putting weight on the rotor was not enough. I stood on the rotor and it didn't go nearly low enough. I had to use spring compressor, then push up the strut to pull out the shock assembly. I guess I should be glad the bushings are still strong?!

BTW, as stated above in the thread, left and right control arm are supposedly different. Taht's why I need a pic to verify.

 

[supercharged]

I have experienced exactly the same; driver's side rear.
As many times as we've had the suspension in and out I can't pin-point the exact cause.