This has piqued my interest as well.
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I can make forged 02+ replicas in 17/18 stagger
- Thread starter TURBO2GO
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Osiris_x11
Gold Member, Moderator: Marketplace
Any idea of the approx. weight for the 17/18 (front/rear) wheels?
Available finishes to choose from: polished? silver? gun-metal? black? custom?
A general/ballpark price for the 17/18 (front/rear) wheels: $750? $1,000? $1,500? $2,000?
And a plausible timeframe for delivery (once all is finalized): Fall 2013? Winter 2013/2014? Spring 2014?
Available finishes to choose from: polished? silver? gun-metal? black? custom?
A general/ballpark price for the 17/18 (front/rear) wheels: $750? $1,000? $1,500? $2,000?
And a plausible timeframe for delivery (once all is finalized): Fall 2013? Winter 2013/2014? Spring 2014?
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I have a very good feeling that even if this is a possibility... it will EASILY be a year plus.
There are alot of factors involved in a wheel production like this. I can see we are all getting excited, but design on these has not even started yet. Let alone production, sourcing, sizing, fitment, etc etc.
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Also, if these are forged I can just about guarantee the final price being $3500+ for a set. If they can do it for less, I'll be blown away.
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Forged will be 4K plus for sure. Might even be well north of that. Flow formed will be less but it is still not going to be sub 2500 by any means. Timing... I don't know. They do work slow. I just want to actually get it done. I am hoping to have some more info over the next 2 weeks. Sorry I am not more helpful. It's not my intention to be like this.
+1 - I like the way you think. A few of my thoughts to add...
I've been considering OEM 2002+ wheels (and not aftermarket wheels) because of these factors:
- 2002+ look is very nice, better than any other OEM including Zenardi.
- Fit securely to the OEM hubs (no spacers, rings, whatever).
- Forged.
- Reasonable price (second-hand).
For me Dave's wheels will need to deliver the same, I can't see myself spending more than (used OEM) for plus sizes...or spending the same (as used OEM) for non-forged.
To keep the market as large as possible I see four things as key:
- Price not out of line with used OEM 2002+ wheels.
- Forged.
- Clear OEM 1991-1996 front calipers without spacers (OEM 2002+ do not). I assume these will clear, given criteria to clear BBKs, but I'm not sure in which dimensions each of these setups (early OEM, BBK) may be incompatible with OEM 2002+ wheels. That uncertainty and the large number of NSXs produced in the early years make me figure it is worth mentioning.
- Tire availability - rim sizes that maximize the number of good models of tires available (and without excluding the lower-priced options). I'm not sure how this plays into the 9.5" vs 10" debate.
Are OEM rims fully forged (press forged) or flow formed (rotary forged)?
Lastly, Dave, thanks for your work on this. Very cool. Your group buys have been beneficial both to owners (good prices) and vendors (getting owners to part with money). Just learned about the CTSC one a few weeks ago and that was very cool (doesn't matter that I'm late as I already have CTSC).
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This is how my car looks like with just 5mm spacers, in my opinion it would be nice to get another 5mm in the front and 10 in the rear.
These are OEM wheels with et 40 front and et 37 rear exactly like what I am suggesting, except the wider wheel will be slightly more flush in the rear.
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This is how flush an 8" and 10" wheel will be, just imagine the OEM shape:
Something between the first two pictures would be good IMO. The fenders on the NSX stick out much more on top as compared to the front/back/bottoms. I don't think it looks good to line tires/wheels up with the top, like the third picture, only to have the tires sticking out everywhere else. In addition to looks, I'm not sure this is wise...as sand/rocks will be thrown up against much of the door panels and rear fenders. I would think "as much et to clear brakes and have desired size tires not rub" may be a better criteria than "flush."
Compare to the MP4-12C, which is about as good of a benchmark as we could look for. Badass car in performance and looks. Its fenders are much more uniform than the NSX (not as much sloping in as you go down, so a flush at top tire wouldn't stick out much elsewhere) and still they decided to not make the wheels/tires flush.
It's not about looks. I need that ET to clear stoptechs up front and the rear is then dictated by the front. I don't want to make a wheel where people using big brake kits have to use spacers. So we can talk a lot about looks but I am trying to make it a functional wheel.
Both factors matter... function is more critical
Just wondering if any CAD masters with access to good gear could be enlisted to mock this up?
laser scan front and rear OEMs to get data aquistion points of existing OEM wheels
increase size, tweak offsets, and spokes for function
So at least the wheels can be kicked around virtually, pun intended
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Makes a lot of sense. I was under the (mistaken) impression that there was offset larger than functionally necessary.
Fixed it for you. :smile:
I'm in for this group buy!!!!
I thought the 2002-2005 stock wheels need a spacer at one end of the car when mounted on an earlier NSX...
Correct (front until year they increased rotor size...94 or 97). So that noted benefit of OEM only applies to some years for the front (or with conversion to later brakes). Replicas without this issue would be even better than OEM in this regard for those years.
You're sort of correct. You're assuming that the offset is changed when material is added or removed from the backpad, leaving the spokes and barrel position relative to the mounting pad the same. In that case, you are correct.
However, the offset also changes if the outer barrel is pushed inward or outward relative to that backpad position. This is usually seen in multipiece designs, however it also pays into effect with single piece designs with a concave faces. So for that case you'd be wrong.
I haven't been fully following this discussion, but from an engineering perspective to only change the offset of the OEM wheel design by adding backpadding to push it out would be a huge mistake. The design of the OEM wheel was force and stress designed for the offset it was created at. Changing one parameter of the design without compenstating it in the rest of the design could cause a catastrophic failure. That should all be reevaluated and the final design stress tested.
Are there any plans to have these wheels TUV, JWL, and DOT/SAE certified?
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Dave
This is maybe a dumb suggestion but why not contact the OEM manufacturer for a special run of the OEM based wheel in the size and offset wanted by all.
The wheels would be pricier for sure but would have more value and would have all approvals etc.
This is maybe a dumb suggestion but why not contact the OEM manufacturer for a special run of the OEM based wheel in the size and offset wanted by all.
The wheels would be pricier for sure but would have more value and would have all approvals etc.
Jim there is no way they will sit and make an individual wheel to suit everyone unless we pay them 10K a set. There is no need. I think a consensus can be reached. I will give in and do 17x8 and 18x10 because a lot of people want that instead of the 9.5 rear. The offsets will be the most conservative that can still clear a BBK like the stoptech which is the biggest, without spacers. Wheels will be hubcentric. All lug patterns are uniform. I think that is a good enough recipe for everyone. The most popular color we will out as "standard" (by a vote) and other colors can come at an upcharge. And there is a huge variety available.
I really hope this come to fruition! B)
I wasn't thinking of a variety of sizes etc.
If we had say 50 sets of 17x8 and 18x10 with one agreed offset for each wheel and one colour, would an OEM be interested?
There wasn't that big a run of OEM 17/17 given the limited NSX sales volume and if the OEM still had the molds they could modify them for our sizes????
Perhaps I should be quiet and let you get on with it
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