I was able to remove driver seat but unable to remove passenger seat due to lack of access to rear bolts. Fuses are good but the slider motor is bad. On passenger seat, recliner works and slider doesnt. So first I thought I had a bad switch so I tried plugging slider connector on recliner switch. Then I unplugged the connector at the bottom and used a jumper pin to power the seat to slide forward. Still nothing. Im positive the motor is bad. So I tried to swap the motor from driver to passenger. That wasn't successful either because the seat had to taken out first. Last thing I tried was turning the rod by hand to move the seat forward. Unfortunately, the rods and all power mechanism are so rusted that they seized from moving. Any other idea how to get the seat out? I wouldnt mind cutting it cause its that bad...beyond worth saving.
How to remove seat without power and access to rear bolts?
- Thread starter reviveNSX
- Start date
Are you having problems with both rear bolts or only the rear center bolt? You could try to use 2 long extensions with 2 joint socket swivel adapters to contor your way to the bolt. Come from above the arm rest and behind the seat that way. It's worth a shot before destroying the seat.
The swivels are like these:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impa...1x000001&kpid=00923765000&kispla=00923765000P
The swivels are like these:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impa...1x000001&kpid=00923765000&kispla=00923765000P
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Rear center bolt? I thought there were only 4 bolts holding the seat to the body. I removed the driver side seat. 2 in the front and 2 in the back on both side.
The passenger seat wont power and its all the way to the back so I have no room to access the rear bolts on both side. Not to mention they have covers over them.
The passenger seat wont power and its all the way to the back so I have no room to access the rear bolts on both side. Not to mention they have covers over them.
Well there is a trick you can try, but you need to be flexible.
Under neath the seat your will see a white 2p connector going to the motor it self if you unplug that and apply 12V to it you will manually operate the motor.
Changing over wiring will make it go forward or backward.
It can be quite a work getting to it as your going to have to lie down in the foot-well.
I've done it before on a stuck driver seat.
That is if the motor is good, I haven't yet seen a broken seat motor on a Honda before though.
I recall alternatively there is the painstaking method of turning the threaded rod on which the sliding mechanism runs, haven't tried that one before.
Under neath the seat your will see a white 2p connector going to the motor it self if you unplug that and apply 12V to it you will manually operate the motor.
Changing over wiring will make it go forward or backward.
It can be quite a work getting to it as your going to have to lie down in the foot-well.
I've done it before on a stuck driver seat.
That is if the motor is good, I haven't yet seen a broken seat motor on a Honda before though.
I recall alternatively there is the painstaking method of turning the threaded rod on which the sliding mechanism runs, haven't tried that one before.
Liberally apply a rust penetrant more than once -- and most importantly, walk away from it for a week, then try.
Of the 4 bolts, the rear bolt located toward the center of the car which is usually the hardest to get to. That's what I meant by rear center. Either way my idea doesn't help if you have cover on them and can't even get the covers off.
Just looking at some google search for NSX seat rails it looks like there is a linkage rod in the front of the seat that allows both sides to turn. Maybe you can pull that off and see if you can make a power drill fit on one end of the rod and keep moving each side back and forth bit by bit until you have enough room to reach the rear bolts.
Just looking at some google search for NSX seat rails it looks like there is a linkage rod in the front of the seat that allows both sides to turn. Maybe you can pull that off and see if you can make a power drill fit on one end of the rod and keep moving each side back and forth bit by bit until you have enough room to reach the rear bolts.
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yup, thats the rod that help slide both side of the seat simultaneously. I could remove the rod but the two screws that held the motor in place are rusted. Front one is stripped and the rear one I couldn't even get to it. I guess I could drill the screws out and take the motor. there is very little room to work under the seat when its on the car.
You can't turn it through the rod interface?
I removed my seats a couple of years ago to do some upholstery repair, so I am going to be working from memory on this (my car is in a storage facility for the winter so I can't get at it to check).
From my memory, I will state what I think has become obvious and that is if the seat can't be moved forward, a regular human is not going to get access to the rear mounting bolts. Now for some possible options!
In the photo provided by Midnight_Raven, you can see the cable which connects the right and left drive mechanisms on the seat frame. If you remove the cable and find some kind of square tool (same dimensions as the drive cable) that you can insert into the cable receiver on either side of the seat, you can turn that tool by hand which should cause the seat to move backward or forward (you will need to figure out the direction). As you turn the tool, the seat will skew in its tracks and jam, so you will have to do a few turns on one side and then do a similar number of turns on the other side. It will be slow and painful - my back hurts just thinking about it! Of course, this will only work if the drive mechanism is not buggered. You mentioned rust. If the worm gear drive mechanism that the cable fits into is seized up, then this is not going to work. As a note, you mentioned that you tried turning the 'rod' ( I assume the worm gear) by hand. This generally won't work. Worm gear mechanisms tend to be a one way type device. They jam if you attempt to apply torque on the output (which is what the long worm gear is on each side of the seat). I will let the mechanical engineers explain why!
If the preceding doesn't work, one last hale-Mary. The seat bottom cushion / upholstery covers an aluminum pan which forms the base of the seat. I don't know how that pan is attached to the slider mechanism as I just removed my center cushion, not the side bolsters. If you can pull up the center cushion from the front (you won't be able to remove it completely as you need access to the back of the seat to do that) and peel back the side bolsters and the bolster foam, you may be able find the attachment points for the seat pan. If it is screwed onto the frame, you may be able to pull off the seat pan which might give you access to those two bolts at the back of the seat. That is a lot of mays and mights. Somebody who has pulled the bolster foam off may be able to advise as to whether I am out-to-lunch with this suggestion.
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Further thought! If you remove one end of the cable connecting the two sides of the seat, you should be able to insert the inner drive cable into the chuck of an electric drill and then use the drill (on the slowest speed) to advance the seat mechanism. You will have to switch the cable from side to side in order to advance both sides of the seat mechanism.
From my memory, I will state what I think has become obvious and that is if the seat can't be moved forward, a regular human is not going to get access to the rear mounting bolts. Now for some possible options!
In the photo provided by Midnight_Raven, you can see the cable which connects the right and left drive mechanisms on the seat frame. If you remove the cable and find some kind of square tool (same dimensions as the drive cable) that you can insert into the cable receiver on either side of the seat, you can turn that tool by hand which should cause the seat to move backward or forward (you will need to figure out the direction). As you turn the tool, the seat will skew in its tracks and jam, so you will have to do a few turns on one side and then do a similar number of turns on the other side. It will be slow and painful - my back hurts just thinking about it! Of course, this will only work if the drive mechanism is not buggered. You mentioned rust. If the worm gear drive mechanism that the cable fits into is seized up, then this is not going to work. As a note, you mentioned that you tried turning the 'rod' ( I assume the worm gear) by hand. This generally won't work. Worm gear mechanisms tend to be a one way type device. They jam if you attempt to apply torque on the output (which is what the long worm gear is on each side of the seat). I will let the mechanical engineers explain why!
If the preceding doesn't work, one last hale-Mary. The seat bottom cushion / upholstery covers an aluminum pan which forms the base of the seat. I don't know how that pan is attached to the slider mechanism as I just removed my center cushion, not the side bolsters. If you can pull up the center cushion from the front (you won't be able to remove it completely as you need access to the back of the seat to do that) and peel back the side bolsters and the bolster foam, you may be able find the attachment points for the seat pan. If it is screwed onto the frame, you may be able to pull off the seat pan which might give you access to those two bolts at the back of the seat. That is a lot of mays and mights. Somebody who has pulled the bolster foam off may be able to advise as to whether I am out-to-lunch with this suggestion.
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Further thought! If you remove one end of the cable connecting the two sides of the seat, you should be able to insert the inner drive cable into the chuck of an electric drill and then use the drill (on the slowest speed) to advance the seat mechanism. You will have to switch the cable from side to side in order to advance both sides of the seat mechanism.
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I checked on your prior posts and note your NSX was left in a field for many years and you're starting your restoration project.
If everything is seized up and you have to replace the whole seat then Old Guys idea about removing the bottom seat pad would be best.
You could then drill/cut through the base pan to access the rear bolts.
My NSX is on my car hoist and I just looked to see if there is bolt access from the underside
The are quite a few plugs there but I don't know if they would allow access to drill the bolts out from below.
If everything is seized up and you have to replace the whole seat then Old Guys idea about removing the bottom seat pad would be best.
You could then drill/cut through the base pan to access the rear bolts.
My NSX is on my car hoist and I just looked to see if there is bolt access from the underside
The are quite a few plugs there but I don't know if they would allow access to drill the bolts out from below.
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that sounded really promising! Im gonna try your 1) and 3) ideas if I have time tonight. thanks a lot Old Guy
There are four bolts retaining the seat pan to the seat rails. You will most likely destroy the seat since getting to this pan would merely be impossible while seat is in the car. Then you may want to try this with post #606
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/78963-Unofficial-weight-reduction-thread/page25
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/78963-Unofficial-weight-reduction-thread/page25
Charlee, thats really nice custom rail you made!
Good news! I got the seat out! First I tried the cable and drill as Old Guy suggested, that didnt work because the cable had plastic wrap outside around them. As soon as drill starts to spin, it would not have enough torque to turn the cable receiver, and if you increase the speed, it will destroy and cable. Then I attempted to use a allen wrench which fit perfect. However, Im unable to turn the thread rod (ultimate goal) by turning the allen wrench in the cable receiver. Just not enough force to turn the threaded rod. Simply put, the rod can turn the receiver but receiver cant turn the rod. Now my final option was to rip the center seat apart and get to the seat pan and unbolt 4 bolts that hold it onto the rails which worked!! Then I was able to get the seat pan out and had plenty of space to work with. This method does indeed destroy the seat. You can be very careful with the foam but the cover has to be reupholstered afterwards. I could care less so I ripped all apart. Then I was able to get to the threaded rod. You can use a 13mm wrench to turn the nut on the end of the rod so the seat will move slide forward. Do that until you can get to the rear bolts. The rods were severely rusted. I had to use a lot of torque to turn them initially. Just look at the pics and you will see why i wouldnt mind cutting the seats at first.
Good news! I got the seat out! First I tried the cable and drill as Old Guy suggested, that didnt work because the cable had plastic wrap outside around them. As soon as drill starts to spin, it would not have enough torque to turn the cable receiver, and if you increase the speed, it will destroy and cable. Then I attempted to use a allen wrench which fit perfect. However, Im unable to turn the thread rod (ultimate goal) by turning the allen wrench in the cable receiver. Just not enough force to turn the threaded rod. Simply put, the rod can turn the receiver but receiver cant turn the rod. Now my final option was to rip the center seat apart and get to the seat pan and unbolt 4 bolts that hold it onto the rails which worked!! Then I was able to get the seat pan out and had plenty of space to work with. This method does indeed destroy the seat. You can be very careful with the foam but the cover has to be reupholstered afterwards. I could care less so I ripped all apart. Then I was able to get to the threaded rod. You can use a 13mm wrench to turn the nut on the end of the rod so the seat will move slide forward. Do that until you can get to the rear bolts. The rods were severely rusted. I had to use a lot of torque to turn them initially. Just look at the pics and you will see why i wouldnt mind cutting the seats at first.
That is great that you were able to use a little elbow grease and got your seats out. Now you get to be creative!
Wow!
When you said the drive worm gears were rusted, I figured a little surface rust. What happened to the car? Did somebody store it on an ocean front property for a couple of years with the windows rolled down?
When you said the drive worm gears were rusted, I figured a little surface rust. What happened to the car? Did somebody store it on an ocean front property for a couple of years with the windows rolled down?
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yup. something like that. It was stored outside on an island couple miles away from Atlantic ocean. moisture can get in the car over the years even without windows rolled down. weatherstrip aren't sealed either.
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man, now im not sure what to get. I want a set of Mugen s1-r but their rails are too expensive...I dont wanna spend more than 2k on a set of bucket seats and rails.
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