Does any one know how the top part of panel 77210-SL0-A01ZA (part #9 shown here) is attached? I can see that the bottom two tabs are screwed in place (my tabs broke off) but can't figure out how to remove the panel. I'm trying to repair or replace it. The covering is coming off, too, so I'd like to work on it in front of me rather than contorted upside down underneath the steering column. Thanks in advance for any pointers anyone can provide.
It's held on with clips around the key hole area and opposite side. Very hard to pull it out, be careful to not break it. Try using a pry tool right where the clips are at.
Just did this - the one on the left (LHD) you can simply pull on the whole left side and it will free - the one on the right is a bear - i use an overly large pry tool from over the top just to the left of the key. Of course wrap the tool with tape. I broke my original some time ago and finally have the process down (assuming a can remember how next time).
Thank for the detail. I was afraid of that. I managed to find some pics of the backside of this piece in another thread and I think I can see the attachment points. A lot of fasteners used in the NA1 seem to hold stronger than the plastic they're made of. Ugh.
Same problem. It seems the metal clip on the plastic tab seems to grip the frame mount point better than the plastic tab so it either pulls out of the plastic or breaks the tab. I had to check a wire last year and pulled PRETTY hard - eventually gave up and fixed the wire from below. But one of these days I'm going to have to pull hard enough to either break it or ...
This thing goes by various names on Prime - Bolster, lower bolster knee pad .... Honda calls it the Dashboard Lower Pad so that is what I will go with. You will find numerous posts on Prime describing what a pain it is to remove, including one by me back about 2012 or so. The problem is the rather tenacious clips at the top of the pad, one on either side of the steering wheel. You have to pull the pad straight back to release the clips and there is nothing obvious to grab on to. I was mucking about experimenting with my turn signal cancel unit which required removal of the pad to...
If you get it out, I think @EuroBoutique recommended removing the metal clip and wrapping the tab with sticky felt tape. It holds it better, doesn't rattle, and can be disassembled without breaking the tab. That's my plan if I can ever get it out.
Yes the factory piece is held in place by metal clips which grab WAY too tightly. We suggest when you replace the knee bolster after removal to pop the metal clips off and just use the friction tape. It works well with the carbon replacement since it's super stiff and those 2 lower screws is all that is needed.
I went under there and found that at least on the left side, I could reach behind and push at the same time. Since I really just need to repair the bottom two tabs and smear some contact cement around the panel edges to re-stick the covering, I think I'll hold off wrestling with the tabs until I *have* to remove the panel.
I'm a new owner and just fixing things as I find them. After this, I only have one more thing I know of that's broken (knock on wood): this piece, 77446-SL0-A01ZC, I think (item 18 here). It's a single piece that stretches the entire width just underneath the windshield and it's cracked right in the middle. I'm wondering if the windshield needs to be removed for that. As far as I can tell it's the same piece the VIN plate is riveted to.
Um. Bad news Rusty. That part is cracked right in the middle on about 90% of NSX's, basically any that sat in the sun without a sunshade. Replacement isn't that expensive, except for the labour of removing the entire front dash... Even if you wanted to do it, I wouldn't for fear of developing some sort of rattle
I hear that if your AC evaporator goes, the dash has to come out, so I'd fix it in that case, but otherwise I'd leave it. There are some folks who've made aluminum or plastic covers to cover the crack. I've seen a few threads on it, so search around; I did find. Unfortunately no pics anymore, but perhaps on the way-back machine:
I pulled the dash to replace the cracked vents. This is the first time I have removed the dash and it went very smooth. There are a few difficult to get to screws, but nothing too hard.
I took pics along the way and will post them in the DIY section.
It is very nice to not have the crack as it was always in view while driving reminding me to fix it!
I replaced the carpet and any other worn parts while the dash was apart.
Some of us have cracks in the dashboard (up front and center) near where the dash meets the windshield. After searching these forums it appears there is no repair option other than an expensive replacement of the offending piece.
I have devised a very inexpensive cover. I made it from some thin black vinyl material that I had laying around. Fortunately it also has a grain to it that somewhat resembles the grain of the dash. It is cut such that it completely covers the cracks yet still leaves that round sensor exposed, and it's attached to the dash via double stick tape.
Are the...
This sure seems like a piece @EuroBoutique should be making. A little matte black carbon cover that would look perfect and install without removing the dash. Would it be like the fake carbon interior trim covers except real?
Aw man, I was hoping it would be easier than that. I wonder if I should buy the part while it's still available and just have it on hand in case I ever need the dash removed.
In any case I managed to do a good enough repair of the knee bolster panel without having to remove it, so at least I didn't break anything else! The only casualty seems to be some contact cement I managed to drip in my hair and on my mouth. Thank god for Goo Gone.
Thanks everyone for all the help and input. Just waiting for the radio and my immediate to-do list is done. I may then be ready to post a new owner report!
If this thread is now onto the windshield strip - the necessary dash removal takes a ton of time and patience to not break other stuff the first time you pull the dash, but it only takes an hour and a half (each way) the second time, point being that getting this part replaced at a dealer might not be that expensive - of course they will likely not be able to get the strip, but perhaps you can get one from Japan and take it too them. FWIW in addition to the plastic in the heat issue with is very valid, in addition i believe that this strip breaks from the screws being too tight to start with as you can see some screw indentations in the plastic interior parts. I personally use home made thin felt "washers" above and below several interior screws and don't tighten super tight so as to let some expansion/contraction occur. Even as stiff as this car chassis is, there is still a bunch of flex that this brittle ABS plastic just can't handle, although our cars are really good in that regards in relation to say a corvette under track/autocross conditions.
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Thanks in advance for any pointers anyone can provide.
