How to hold crank while fitting an ATI Super Damper ??

[sparky]

I'm doing TB and fitting an ATI Super Damper for NSX. These do not have the hexagonal fitment for the Honda tool that holds crankshaft whilst loosening/tightening the 16mm crank bolt that holds OEM or ATI damper in place.

Looking for suggestions for stopping engine from rotating when I tighten the bolt (to 181 ft-lb). e.g. perhaps hold it via the flywheel teeth?

 

[NSX1145]

You can get them from most auto stores for $50

 

[sparky]

ummm .. exactly what can I get from local stores?

 

[sparky]

bump
Still looking for suggestions on how to hold the engine when the normal method is NOT available? (i.e. I can't put the Honda tool into the ATI harmonic balancer, since it has no hexagonal insert point)

 

[Gary W]

Use the Honda tool and drill holes in it to match the bolts on the ATI damper, remove the damper bolts and replace with longer bolts. When finished torquing the damper reinstall the ATI bolts. This is what I did.

Gary

 

[sparky]

Thanks Gary that's a good option.

What about simply putting it in top gear and hold with e-brake or full brakes if need be? I can't imagine this doing any damage given the drive train handles similar torque when driving.

 

[OLDMNSX]

What about simply putting it in top gear and hold with e-brake or full brakes if need be?

Give it a try. What have you got to loose? Let us know how it works.

(After all, who was the first guy to figure out that an airplane would fly upside down?)

 

[whywhite]

Hey Sparky, remember that the crankshaft tool is mine, not sure about modifying it yet.
You could simply make a new end for the Honda tool , all you would need is to drill a hole in a piece of 6mm plate ( or the same size as the Honda tool) to fit a socket for the crank bolt and holes to suit you damper then cut to fit the Honda tool handle. Safe and easy.

 

[sparky]

Hey Jim, your suggestion was my plan too already. I will try using the brakes first, but don't worry I wont modify it !

 

[sparky]

for the record ... using the e-brake (hand brake) held the crank just fine. The only tricky bit came as I installed the damper, I had a simple installation tool made that used a temporary (longer bolt) to slide the damper on. It was a tight fit (as ATI intended) but I used some anti-sieze and it slid onto the crank quite nicely with only low / moderate torque needed on the bolt. But of course I had to remove the temporary bolt. Even with the ebrake applied there is just enough slop in the drive train that risks rotating engine in the wrong direction and possibly slipping the belt. So I fitted the alternator and air con belts and tied them down so as to assist in holding the crank, and the bolt came out just fine. The key is the anti-sieze!

But if / when I have to remove the damper I will make a proper tool the lock the damper in place, using the three bolts on the damper.

 

[OLDMNSX]

If you are going to make a tool it will be a LOT easier to make with the balancer OFF of the engine.

 

[Roger59]

Is there an issue using an impact gun to tighten the damper on the crankshaft?

 

[sparky]

the impact guns I've seen don't have adjustable /selectable torque values, so even if the impact gun succeeded in tightening the bolt, you would not know what torque it ended up at. Not a good method IMO