No i didnt. How do u bleed radiator fluid? Just like bleeding brake fluid?
How hard to replace thermostat?
- Thread starter hofffam
- Start date
shawn110975
Suspended
thats what I was gonna say did you bleed all the coolant
jack the rear of the car up as far as you can.
open the rad valve,
open the valve coming off the 3 alum pipes under the reserve tank
open valve under the throttle body
add coolant....... wait for it...... wait for it...... front rad start pouring out. close valve.
now go to the 3 alum pipes under the reserve.. wait for it..... wait for it.... coolant pours out close valve.
now go to the valve under the throttlebody.... wait for it wait for it.... coolant pours out close valve.
cap off the coolant to little above max. go drive..... take some corners like hell. your swishing the bubbles all around they find the top eventually.
open front rad just a little your should hear a little hiss close valve.
open the 3 alum pipe valve you should see s few bubbles close valve.
under the thrittlebody open a litle some bubble come out close valve
your done.....
now if the temp still rises your have a stuck thermastat
go replace repeat process LOL
jack the rear of the car up as far as you can.
open the rad valve,
open the valve coming off the 3 alum pipes under the reserve tank
open valve under the throttle body
add coolant....... wait for it...... wait for it...... front rad start pouring out. close valve.
now go to the 3 alum pipes under the reserve.. wait for it..... wait for it.... coolant pours out close valve.
now go to the valve under the throttlebody.... wait for it wait for it.... coolant pours out close valve.
cap off the coolant to little above max. go drive..... take some corners like hell. your swishing the bubbles all around they find the top eventually.
open front rad just a little your should hear a little hiss close valve.
open the 3 alum pipe valve you should see s few bubbles close valve.
under the thrittlebody open a litle some bubble come out close valve
your done.....
now if the temp still rises your have a stuck thermastat
go replace repeat process LOL
Lol I'll try it tomorrow
^+1 You must hit all 4 bleeders (I think its 4, I'm too lazy this morning to go to the garage and get the manual - update: its 4 per page 10-7 in the '96 shop manual) in the sequence in the shop manual. I don't have any special bleeding tools, so I simply park the car - nose facing downhill on my steep driveway - for the final bleed and have never had a problem.
I'm a heretic and won't put a Honda thermostat back in my NSX. It failed 9 years ago with the inner O-ring mushrooming off (as Larry B described) and blocking the thermostat open. I replaced it with a thermostat from NAPA and have never had a slow warm-up problem (or even a slight budge over nominal operating temp) since.
I'm a heretic and won't put a Honda thermostat back in my NSX. It failed 9 years ago with the inner O-ring mushrooming off (as Larry B described) and blocking the thermostat open. I replaced it with a thermostat from NAPA and have never had a slow warm-up problem (or even a slight budge over nominal operating temp) since.
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shawn110975
Suspended
there are 4 but the 4th is under the car and never used its for draining
I have to disagree - per page 10-7 of the '96 shop manual (and I've done this a number of times over 14 years of ownership), there are 4 bleeders, 2 drains on the block, the 2 drain plugs in the long coolant pipes from the engine bay to the front, and the radiator drain plug (so 9 bleeders & drains in total).
The four bleeders to hit in order are:
1 - The thermostat cover (left side of the engine)
2- The radiator upper tank
3 - The heater pipe (up front, to the left of the brake master cylinder)
4 - Bleed bolt (engine compartment, near the left front end of the front valve cover)
check level in expansion tank & add coolant if necessary
5 - Repeat thermostat cover bleed
Tightening torque on the metal bleeders is very low - 7 lb-ft. The radiator bleeder is finger tight.
The four bleeders to hit in order are:
1 - The thermostat cover (left side of the engine)
2- The radiator upper tank
3 - The heater pipe (up front, to the left of the brake master cylinder)
4 - Bleed bolt (engine compartment, near the left front end of the front valve cover)
check level in expansion tank & add coolant if necessary
5 - Repeat thermostat cover bleed
Tightening torque on the metal bleeders is very low - 7 lb-ft. The radiator bleeder is finger tight.
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Lol u guys are confusing me
- - - Updated - - -
Oh btw my car is a 92 sorry lol
- - - Updated - - -
Oh btw my car is a 92 sorry lol
Do a search on this website to find and download the service manual. Go to section 10 of the manual, and you will either be unconfused or can make a copy of the procedure for your local mechanic. :biggrin: Again, this is not difficult, but you need to find the 4 bleeders.
Thanks i will try to find the service manual. If anyone know where its at please let me know 
Try this http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Reference/1991_svcman/1991servman.pdf
It will take a while to load, but then save the file.
It will take a while to load, but then save the file.
All 4 bleeders are on top:
Radiator
Heater core
Thermostat housing
Return pipe in engine bay
HTH,
LarryB
Radiator
Heater core
Thermostat housing
Return pipe in engine bay
HTH,
LarryB
U have to leave the car on when u bleed?
shawn110975
Suspended
I stand corrected LOL that's how I bleed after I drop the engine or replace all the hoses I need re-read the manual guys LOL
This is getting ridiculous.
Download the shop manual per ftuhy's previous post.
He gave you the download address.
Read pages 10-5,10-6,10-7.
If, after doing this homework, you still have questions, then take your car to a dealer.
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...........ok? It was just a yes or no question. but I'll figure it out. Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it.
I'm not wanting to sound like a troll on this but it's not a yes or no answer.
Your questions were suggesting that you didn't have all the info needed to do your radiator replacement job correctly.
It helps if you understand that the fluid levels in a full radiator and the engine/overflow tank are higher than the fluid level in the two coolant pipes running under the car.
Unless you drain the lowest point in the system (the coolant pipes) And unless you allow air to escape when refilling you run the risk of trapping air in your cooling system, it won't work properly, and can result in a damaged overheated engine.
The Honda engineers understood this risk and is why they prescribed a specific procedure to empty and refill the coolant.
From the sounds of your problem, you made the rad change without knowing the coolant drain/refill procedure.
The responders to your questions, who have all read the manual and done the procedure, were trying to tell you to get the manual, read it, understand your car's system, and do the job correctly so you won't overheat your engine and damage it.
It's hard to do work on an NSX correctly without a manual as the car is not simple and some procedures are not intuitive.
My comment was also supposed to encourage you to take the time to get the manual, take the time to read about the procedure you are planning/doing so you will build your knowledge base, and not damage your car.
My choice of words was poor and I apologize for that.
I do maintain though that if you intend to work on your NSX do what the rest of us have done.
Take the time to get all the tools you need for a job, and that includes the free manual.
Read up on the factory procedure then you have a good chance of success.
If you run into a problem after having the tools and having read the manual , I or one of dozens more owners will make sure you get the help you need.
And if you don't want to expend the effort to take advantage of the free manual and learn how to do it then you should get the work done at a dealer.
Sorry if I offended.
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Agree with JDCross - get the manual and print it out (I don't care how many pages it its) and read it and read it.. and read it, over and over again. It is extremely detailed.
I'm not making a big deal out of it but I'm just saying, that last question I asked was a yes or no question. I asked that question before I saw the link that ftuhy posted up.
+1 that sounds like you've got air in the system
Have to credit Kaz for the following:
Even after following the service manual procedure, air will still be trapped at the top of the radiator and at the heater core pipe. On the engine side, the bubbles will find their way to the header tank, which separates the air due to the clever design inside the tank. However, in the front of the car, the NSX radiator is different from most cars because water comes in the bottom and exits on the top. This means any air bubbles have to be pushed down and then under the car. This is very tough to do unless you run at 8,000 rpm for extended period (this is why so many cars burp coolant at the track). It is air, so it just wants to float to the top, which is what is does in most cases. It just sits at the top of the radiator tank. Same with the heater pipe. Follow the service manual bleeding procedure first and make sure your heater valve is open by setting your temp to 90 on the climate control. Wait until the car is fully cool and then do the following:
(1) Remove the header tank cap. Go to the front of the car and loosen the top radiator bleed plug so you can wiggle it, but not so much that it comes out. Wiggle the plug and you probably will hear air hissing and bubbling out of the threads. Wait until there is no more hissing and just coolant leaking out, and then re-tighten the plug. Wipe up the spilled coolant with a shop rag.
(2) Find the bleeder on top of the heater core pipe by the front firewall. On early models, it is a rubber cap with a hose clamp. On later models, it is a bleeder screw like the others on the car. Your car is a 92, so it probably has the cap. Carefully remove the clamp. Keep holding down on the cap so it does not fly off and spray down your front bay with coolant. Very gently wiggle the cap until you can slightly tilt it off of the pipe. Like the rad, you will probably hear hissing and bubbling as the air escapes. Once there is no more hissing and only coolant is coming out, push the cap back on all the way and put the clamp back on.
(3) Top off coolant to the max line in the tank, warm up and check for leaks. This should eliminate any remaining air from your system.
According to Kaz, the above should be added to the service manual procedure any time you drain and replace coolant in the NSX, otherwise you will have air trapped in the front of the car possibly for years unless you drive hard.
Even after following the service manual procedure, air will still be trapped at the top of the radiator and at the heater core pipe. On the engine side, the bubbles will find their way to the header tank, which separates the air due to the clever design inside the tank. However, in the front of the car, the NSX radiator is different from most cars because water comes in the bottom and exits on the top. This means any air bubbles have to be pushed down and then under the car. This is very tough to do unless you run at 8,000 rpm for extended period (this is why so many cars burp coolant at the track). It is air, so it just wants to float to the top, which is what is does in most cases. It just sits at the top of the radiator tank. Same with the heater pipe. Follow the service manual bleeding procedure first and make sure your heater valve is open by setting your temp to 90 on the climate control. Wait until the car is fully cool and then do the following:
(1) Remove the header tank cap. Go to the front of the car and loosen the top radiator bleed plug so you can wiggle it, but not so much that it comes out. Wiggle the plug and you probably will hear air hissing and bubbling out of the threads. Wait until there is no more hissing and just coolant leaking out, and then re-tighten the plug. Wipe up the spilled coolant with a shop rag.
(2) Find the bleeder on top of the heater core pipe by the front firewall. On early models, it is a rubber cap with a hose clamp. On later models, it is a bleeder screw like the others on the car. Your car is a 92, so it probably has the cap. Carefully remove the clamp. Keep holding down on the cap so it does not fly off and spray down your front bay with coolant. Very gently wiggle the cap until you can slightly tilt it off of the pipe. Like the rad, you will probably hear hissing and bubbling as the air escapes. Once there is no more hissing and only coolant is coming out, push the cap back on all the way and put the clamp back on.
(3) Top off coolant to the max line in the tank, warm up and check for leaks. This should eliminate any remaining air from your system.
According to Kaz, the above should be added to the service manual procedure any time you drain and replace coolant in the NSX, otherwise you will have air trapped in the front of the car possibly for years unless you drive hard.
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- Joined
- 28 November 2009
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- 997
I had a random heat problem, appeared to take ages upon ages to warm up.
then the gauge done random things.
replaced thermostat, still the same then replaced the temp sensor from memory is located under throttle body, small hands can get in there while throttle body in place and resolved the issue.
then the gauge done random things.
replaced thermostat, still the same then replaced the temp sensor from memory is located under throttle body, small hands can get in there while throttle body in place and resolved the issue.
Well Iowa finally had some really nice weather. Did the bleeding procedure today and my car didn't over heat anymore. Thank a lot guys I really appreciate all your helps!!
I also had long warm up times, 5-10 minutes but saw posts that this was normal until one morning I had to drive to the airport (50 mins mostly on I-95) when it was 38 degrees outside and the car didn't fully warm up and heater didn't really work.
Called around and Duval Acura in Jacksonville wanted $557 to replace thermostat......unreal.
Had it done at my local BMW/Merc Indy (small town, no Japanese specialists, have taken my 540i to them before) for $195 - gave them all the bleed info. Now car warms up in a few minutes so if you are sitting on long warm up times I suggest you do this. Note Nabil at First Class in Orlando said normally about $100....
Oh, and this is what the old one looked like......
Called around and Duval Acura in Jacksonville wanted $557 to replace thermostat......unreal.
Had it done at my local BMW/Merc Indy (small town, no Japanese specialists, have taken my 540i to them before) for $195 - gave them all the bleed info. Now car warms up in a few minutes so if you are sitting on long warm up times I suggest you do this. Note Nabil at First Class in Orlando said normally about $100....
Oh, and this is what the old one looked like......
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Resurrecting this thread instead of starting a new one about my slow warming NSX. (Answer to the OP - not that hard.) I've my NSX for a year now, loving it so far. It's always taken a long time to warm up, longer than my Wrangler or Outlander. I haven't timed it but it seems like at least 10 minutes. It's longer than any Honda or motorcycle I've owned before, although I've never owned a vehicle that swallowed 4 jugs of coolant either. The temp gage seems to work fine and the rad fan comes on appropriately. I began to wonder if the thermostat is stuck open. My search found this thread, which suggests it probably is.
I should have taken out the thermostat and tested it when I changed my coolant last winter.
My question - some folks seem to recommend a non-factory thermostat. Is this still the recommendation? I generally go with OEM. Amaya says I need 19301PR7307 but it's no longer made and recommend 19301P8EA10, which is what OEMAcura shows.
Thoughts?
I should have taken out the thermostat and tested it when I changed my coolant last winter.
My question - some folks seem to recommend a non-factory thermostat. Is this still the recommendation? I generally go with OEM. Amaya says I need 19301PR7307 but it's no longer made and recommend 19301P8EA10, which is what OEMAcura shows.
Thoughts?
Resurrecting this thread instead of starting a new one about my slow warming NSX. (Answer to the OP - not that hard.) I've my NSX for a year now, loving it so far. It's always taken a long time to warm up, longer than my Wrangler or Outlander. I haven't timed it but it seems like at least 10 minutes. It's longer than any Honda or motorcycle I've owned before, although I've never owned a vehicle that swallowed 4 jugs of coolant either. The temp gage seems to work fine and the rad fan comes on appropriately. I began to wonder if the thermostat is stuck open. My search found this thread, which suggests it probably is.
I should have taken out the thermostat and tested it when I changed my coolant last winter.
My question - some folks seem to recommend a non-factory thermostat. Is this still the recommendation? I generally go with OEM. Amaya says I need 19301PR7307 but it's no longer made and recommend 19301P8EA10, which is what OEMAcura shows.
Thoughts?
Yes. The factory thermostat is over engineered. It uses a rubber seal around the center plunger that eventually mushrooms out, deforms and causes the plunger to be stuck open. Common failure on all NSXs. Go with the Stant all-metal version and you'll never have to replace it again. Make sure to also buy the rubber seal gasket. I used a Mahle, but you can also use the OEM. I like to add a very light coat of silicone grease (Shin-Etsu, Pool-Lube, DC-4, etc.) to the rubber to improve sealing and preserve the material life to keep it soft and pliable. Finally, you may want to replace the thermo cover bolts and clean out the thread holes- they can often be rather corroded, which means you won't get the right torque setting when you snug them back up.
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