Honcho's Long Road to Imola Type-S Zero

[Honcho]

Hello - Can you share the vendor details that re-webbed your seat belt?
Thanks.

Here you go:

https://www.safetyrestore.com/

Very pleased with the service and turnaround. Any thoughts on replacing the plastic bags on them? I was thinking of zip tying some heavy-mil plastic bags in the same orientation as the originals. Not sure if they are needed.

 

[natcc99]

Thanks for sharing the link.
Similar to you, mine is just old and peace of mind have it restored to new. I like how there is no extra charge for a splash of color.

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the plastic bag. I haven't removed mine from my car yet.
Your idea sound solid....as long as it serves its purpose, it should be fine.

 

[Honcho]

Re-Assembly 13

The aftermarket Hella horns have basic spade terminals, versus the OEM horns, which use a built-in HW 090 sealed connector. Thus, to properly connect to the NSX harness, I needed to build custom plugs. Having the proper crimping tools and heatshrink makes this job much easier.

 

[Honcho]

General

Tried the Evapo-Rust product on my wheel hubs. Amazing result. Added an extremely thin coat of silicone grease to the mating surface to prevent future corrosion.

 

[Honcho]

General

Quick update for the blog- the car looks like a car again. Not much time to update the blog here since I'm devoting 100% free time to re-assembly, so we can get [MENTION=34522]NSX_n00b[/MENTION] 's car to the body shop on time. I will have a lot of updates with new photos in a few weeks once the body assembly is complete and I can turn back to the engine refresh and transmission overhaul.

Currently being delayed by the broken rivnut in the front right fender, but still pushing forward on other areas.

 

[docjohn]

lack of updates making me angry...you don't want to see me when I'm angry....:biggrin:

 

[JohnWayne]

lack of updates making me angry...you don't want to see me when I'm angry....:biggrin:

Angry Bee

 

[AlanS]

Amazing build, I always look forward to your updates!

Thankfully, the paint shop put on an extra coat of clear as a "sacrificial" coating just for that purpose. We're still being careful, but the plan is to take it back to the shop once it's done and they will buff out the entire car to a high gloss. Then, it's straight to PPF lol.

You might want to pull the badge off and reapply after the PPF for the cleanest possible install.

 

[Honcho]

lack of updates making me angry...you don't want to see me when I'm angry....:biggrin:

Calm down, you.

Amazing build, I always look forward to your updates! You might want to pull the badge off and reapply after the PPF for the cleanest possible install.

Thanks! We discussed that and decided against it. Properly mounting the badge requires removing the bumper to install the push nuts. I'm not taking off the bumper again just to fit a badge.

 

[Honcho]

Re-Assembly 14

Fuel Door Cable

Had a few spare minutes to update the blog- I'm weeks ahead of this point, but wanted to get some new pics up so [MENTION=4282]docjohn[/MENTION] doesn't have a rage-stroke or something.

As I was unfamiliar with the mechanism, I broke the fuel door release cable during disassembly. There are two plastic ears on the nose of the cable that must be rotated before they can come out. I did not know that and just pried on it with a flat blade screwdriver. ... and broke one of the ears. Worse, this part is NLA in the US. Marc Perez at MITA to the rescue. Turns out there are plenty in Japan.

Old cable and the new part.

Clipped into the lever. I noticed the lever is bent. Possibly from someone sitting on it at the body shop. Will have to bend it back to spec.

Running the new grommet into the body. You can see some vestiges of the factory red here. This will be hidden by the evap canister.

Clipped in properly.

Honda very nicely provided white paint marks on the cable to locate the clips.

Set aside until the quarter panel is mounted.

 

[docjohn]

Lol "rage stroke"....

 

[Honcho]

Transmission Refresh 5

Lightweight Flywheel

A part arrived from Japan after almost a 5 month delay. Big thank you to Evasive Motorsports for coming through again on this rare part for the NSX.

This is the Jun Lightweight Flywheel, model 2001M-H007. It weighs 4.5 kg, compared to 7.0 kg for the Honda genuine part. Jun also sells an "Ultralight" model, at 4.3 kg (Model # 2010M), but I did not want to go too aggressive, as this NSX will be mainly street-driven. I like the Jun offering because it is a solid piece of forged chromoly steel, unlike many other types that use steel friction plates affixed to aluminum wheels with bolts. The problem wit those designs is that aluminum and steel have different rates of expansion under load and heat, creating the potential for the steel plates to become detached from the wheel. Having the flywheel forged out of a single piece of steel means it will be much more durable and reliable, especially considering the mechanical loads and heat to which it is subjected. That is my reasoning anyway, so I will stick to this design for my NSX.

 

[Honcho]

Re-Assembly 15

Intake Snorkel

My daughter did a very good job cleaning up the intake snorkel and applying the 303 protectant. This part is much, much easier to install with the quarter panel removed, so it was next. Interesting to note that this snorkel is the "AT" version, although the chamber volume appears to be identical to the MT. I didn't realize they were different between transmissions. I wonder if the resonator and or bellmouth shape are different for the AT customer's auditory preference? [MENTION=25737]Kaz-kzukNA1[/MENTION] ?

Important to say here again, that replacing this part with another design will do nothing to help the power level of your NA NSX, though it may change the sound. This part has been extensively tested in Japan and is good up to about 350 hp output before a restriction becomes an issue. Mr. Toyoizumi has a very good discussion about it on the T3TEC BBS if you really want to geek out.

***Edit***
Just a few more notes on this. I believe the AT resonator tube is larger (diameter) than the MT. Maybe Kaz can confirm. I don't really care, considering the exhaust I am putting on this car. Also, the above performance advice is meant for naturally-aspirated 3.0 engines. On the 3.2, they did observe some restriction above 7,000 rpm. Same with the intake manifold.

 

[docjohn]

I'm shrinking into a regular dude from the big green guy...thanks....

 

[socalx]

Have you driven an nsx with the lightweight flywheel? A friend of mine did this mod on his nsx and it was a huge step backwards. Taking a car that was easy for anyone to drive to where my friend who has been driving stick his whole life now stalls the car randomly. Please meet up with someone who has done this to their nsx and drive it first to make sure it is what you want to do

 

[Honcho]

Have you driven an nsx with the lightweight flywheel? A friend of mine did this mod on his nsx and it was a huge step backwards. Taking a car that was easy for anyone to drive to where my friend who has been driving stick his whole life now stalls the car randomly. Please meet up with someone who has done this to their nsx and drive it first to make sure it is what you want to do

I've driven a few. The Jun is definitely easier to engage versus some of the super crazy light ones out there like the tilton, Dali fidanza, etc.

 

[MrHugo]

I cannot speak for other flywheels but my Jun has been amazing. Super easy to drive. I don’t know if it makes a difference but I also have jdm short gears and final drive.

 

[Honcho]

I cannot speak for other flywheels but my Jun has been amazing. Super easy to drive. I don’t know if it makes a difference but I also have jdm short gears and final drive.

I also have the JDM gears. Did you have to remove the paint from the friction surface prior to installing, or did you just let the friction discs scrub it off?

 

[MrHugo]

I cannot answer that question as Niguel Motor did the install for me. Most likely, the friction discs scrubbed it off. Btw, I am still on the journey to buy a TI Fujisubo someday. Have you bought one yet or you decided to go with something else?

 

[Honcho]

I cannot answer that question as Niguel Motor did the install for me. Most likely, the friction discs scrubbed it off. Btw, I am still on the journey to buy a TI Fujisubo someday. Have you bought one yet or you decided to go with something else?

I've already owned two. I have a Prospeed DSE-001 exhaust for this car. If I go Ti again, I may try the new Ti GT exhaust from RF Yamamoto. About the same weight as the Super Ti and a more aggressive sound. Still, the Fujitsubo is the ultimate NSX exhaust in my book.

 

[MrHugo]

I've already owned two. I have a Prospeed DSE-001 exhaust for this car. If I go Ti again, I may try the new Ti GT exhaust from RF Yamamoto. About the same weight as the Super Ti and a more aggressive sound. Still, the Fujitsubo is the ultimate NSX exhaust in my book.

Oh yes. I remember now. Bad memory from old age.

Right. Cannot go wrong with RFY. What makes you not get Ti again beside the high cost?

btw I cannot wait to see your type s when completed. My dream built.

 

[Honcho]

Oh yes. I remember now. Bad memory from old age.

Right. Cannot go wrong with RFY. What makes you not get Ti again beside the high cost?

btw I cannot wait to see your type s when completed. My dream built.

This NSX is a different concept from my 91, which was a daily driver. Unlike that car, which was used in all weather conditions (including snow) and for work commuting, this NSX is for fun. I want it to be more rough around the edges and loud. A little mean-spirited, if you will. I'm not going to drive this NSX as much so when I do, I want it to stir my soul. The Super Ti exhaust is ideal for a daily driven NSX because it delivers comfortable volume at low power and really opens up at WOT, plus it is lightweight. You can only really accomplish this with Ti. The Prospeed exhaust also weighs about 20 lbs just like the Super Ti, but it's much louder.

 

[solidol]

Fantastic job. Already planning a trip to Colorado to meet and see the best NSX in the country [emoji6]

 

[docjohn]

The key to keeping a car special is to limit its use...being raucous/wild/well sprung....keeps it as an "event" car...

 

[Honcho]

Re-Assembly 16

Tail-Lights

Fitting the S-Zero tail lights and gaskets. Special thank-you to Kaz, who kindly reminded me about the fitting technique since it has been over 10 years since I last did the job. I will repeat it here for future owners:

• The new gaskets are very soft, so only tighten the nuts finger tight and leave them overnight. This allows the gaskets to take a set and ensure you will not over-compress them during final fitting.
• First install the center light loosely (to permit the side lights to fit).
• Install the side lights next loosely.
• Tighten the center light nuts
• Tighten the side light nuts finger tight (leave overnight)
• Using the quarter-panel edge and the center light top trim edge as a guide, tighten the nuts so that both edges are even and no nuts are loose

S-Zero specific center light

Fitting the light harnesses and new gaskets.

Brand-new seals. These would become an issue later.

All new light bulbs for the harnesses. I decided not to go LED at this stage. Partly because I don't want to mess with the wiring (I have enough to do right now) and also because I do like the retro warm light tones of the incandescent bulbs.

Initial fitting complete.