Hex Bolt stuck need some suggestion for removal

[supertrex]

all the other bolt on the Steering wheel can be removed except for this specific one. I didnt even remember making it tight like that.

I tried the craftsman bolt removal and the edge of that removal tip got stuck in the middle of my Hex bolt. so it just made the situation worst.

I drilled a small hole just enough for my pick to slowly hammer it sideways but no luck still.

The last method I wanna do is to use a Tig Weld and Weld a Bolt large enough so I can use a wrench ( much stronger ) and hopefully it will loosen.

But anyone have some suggestion I can try?

 

[shawn110975]

use a drill bit the same size as the head of that bolt, eat the bolt down to the thread, then use your bolt removal bit drill it, then use the reverse bit to get it out. should be good after that

 

[aluminiumdream]

as someone who has much experience with bolts, i must say flat head bolts of all kinds are notorious for seizing. Even if you only tighten them a little, they will stick like a mofo. The funny thing is that they do not seize at the thread. They will always seize at the mating flat.

I remove flat heads like such. First off do you own any taps? meaning taps for tapping holes. if so, then find one you dont need or is dull. taps are very tough and can penetrate most metals besides the obvious tool steels. i.e. Drills, high grade bolts. grind the end of your tap so it looks like a small flat head screw driver. now place that ground edge to one side of the bolt head and stand it up vertical. give it one hit with a hammer. this will not only shock the bolt but you now have a notch to get some "grip." Now tilt your tap, within that notch, on a 45 degree angle and make sure the next hit is hard and in the direction one would use to loosen the bolt. the first hit should do it. if not try again. if you start to shear the surface. make another impression and start over. it will come out.

Good luck

 

[Rob4092xx]

Go to any Sears tool section and find a Craftsman brand stripped screw removal set. They are inexpensive, last for ever and super easy to use!

as someone who has much experience with bolts, i must say flat head bolts of all kinds are notorious for seizing. Even if you only tighten them a little, they will stick like a mofo. The funny thing is that they do not seize at the thread. They will always seize at the mating flat.

I remove flat heads like such. First off do you own any taps? meaning taps for tapping holes. if so, then find one you dont need or is dull. taps are very tough and can penetrate most metals besides the obvious tool steels. i.e. Drills, high grade bolts. grind the end of your tap so it looks like a small flat head screw driver. now place that ground edge to one side of the bolt head and stand it up vertical. give it one hit with a hammer. this will not only shock the bolt but you now have a notch to get some "grip." Now tilt your tap, within that notch, on a 45 degree angle and make sure the next hit is hard and in the direction one would use to loosen the bolt. the first hit should do it. if not try again. if you start to shear the surface. make another impression and start over. it will come out.

Good luck

 

[Acura NsX Pilot]

Go to any Sears tool section and find a Craftsman brand stripped screw removal set. They are inexpensive, last for ever and super easy to use!

I tried the craftsman bolt removal and the edge of that removal tip got stuck in the middle of my Hex bolt. so it just made the situation worst.

.

I belive he already tried this

 

[aluminiumdream]

it got stuck but didnt break right? if it broke then you will be into so serious carbide drilling. like i said, those flat head screws are shit. they will sieze nomatter what you do. Anti sieze, grease wont help. they sure look good though.

Warning: science content!

im almost positive that metric flat heads have an included angle of 84 degrees and imperial are 90 degrees. so in the future, if you have a flat head screw and its metric, redrill the mating hole with an imperial countersink. the two different angles will not provide such a tight bearing surface and should therefore not be so damn hard to remove.

 

[kennyc]

are you using the removal bit right?

I don't have the instruction in front of me... I think you should run the cutting side first until the surface is nice and smooth (which it's not in your pictures).

then run the extraction side. I think both side would need to be run in reverse.

I had an issue once and turned out I was running the cutting side in forward and did not create a smooth surface.

 

[Briank]

Walk it out with a punch or drill it with drill about the size of the threaded part and the head will fall off.

 

[Racerxjling]

Take a dremel with a metal cutting bit. Drill down to make a channel/line for a screwdriver to fit or even an "+" for a philips...if there is enough room.

Jeff

 

[pgilliam1]

It looks like you have a small hole started at the 1 o'clock position of the bolt head. Take a short pointed metal punch, insert it as deeply as possible into that hole at a 45 degree angle and tap it in a counterclockwise (loosening) direction. If you have no luck, then take a flat punch and hit the bolt head directly square several times and try the pointed angled approach again. Sometimes the rap of a hammer can break bonded surfaces.

 

[syam]

It looks like you have a small hole started at the 1 o'clock position of the bolt head. Take a short pointed metal punch, insert it as deeply as possible into that hole at a 45 degree angle and tap it in a counterclockwise (loosening) direction. If you have no luck, then take a flat punch and hit the bolt head directly square several times and try the pointed angled approach again. Sometimes the rap of a hammer can break bonded surfaces.

i think he tried this already too...

looks like welding may be your only option. make sure to do it fast right after you finish welding as once the bolt cools again, it could seize even more.

also, try to soak it in some pb blaster before trying the punch and hammer method. at least that is an easier option then welding. soak the front and soak the back of steering wheel mating flange.