Help required with Engine Bay Whine. What could it be?

[ffffanman]

Replacing A Noisy A/C Idler Pulley Bearing

Replacing A Noisy A/C Idler Pulley Bearing
The whine I was starting to hear from the engine bay had just gotten a lot louder last nite. The car was parked for two months and I started it ever week and backed it out of the garage and let it run for 10 minutes, but never heard the noise this loud. I insured it yesterday and took her out for a boot and later in the day the little whine that I thought was perhaps my throwout bearing got louder. I do need a clutch soon and thought that it was coming from the clutch area. Maybe I'm now wrong.
The whine is hard to discribe.
Do you remember the whine that you once got on some cars out of your stereo speakers before resister plugs. Its kind of like that but lower in freq.
It changes in pitch with the rpm and intensity changes as well, maybe getting louder at 2-3000 rpm but then going quieter furthur up the band.
Its there all the time, while at stand still or traveling.
Clutch in or out does not effect the noise.
There goes my throwout bearing theory I think.
In my mind it could sound like bearings going bad on alternator.
I applied pressure to the belts last nite while it was idling in the garage without any change in noise.
I run mobile 1 in the engine and had the gm mix in the gear box, but changed back to honda 4000 miles ago.
My heart sinks when I think about what a spun rod bearing might sound like.
Please let me know your thoughts and what other information I might provide.
Trev
[email protected]
1-780-953-1744
I will try to get a sound clip if I can.

 

[ffffanman]

Just checked the two belts. Seem to be fine.
Actually took off the alternator belt. Noise still there.
Where, I can't tell.
Test drive time again.
Back from blast, sound actually stopped for 15 secounds at a light.
Neighbor was out with his right hand drive and took a listen.
Sounds like a bearing (alternator, waterpump, idler pulley) he says.
Still cant tell which side or exactly where it comes from.
Seems like the passenger side the most though.
Trev

 

[TyraNSX]

Get a length of hose skinny enough to fit in your ear & long enough to reach down into engine compartment. Stick hose in ear gently & move other end around various components & listen for noise to get louder. Idea stolen from Car Talk. Or get your hands on a mechanic's stethoscope.

 

[nsx-tech]

It's most likely the A/C tensioner bearing. Remove your belts and run the engine. You can also listen with along screwdriver or a long piece of wood. Hockey stick handle or broom handle.

 

[Larry Bastanza]

It's most likely the A/C tensioner bearing. Remove your belts and run the engine. You can also listen with along screwdriver or a long piece of wood. Hockey stick handle or broom handle.

I would agree. If you just removed the alternator belt the noise would still be there it that is the cause. You may want to try turning the A/C on/off/on to see if the noise changes. The belt is always turning regardless, but the compressor on/off will change teh load and might give you a clue.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[Zennsx]

I had a whine similar to that when my AC evap leaked most of my compressor oil. Does your AC work?

 

[ffffanman]

Im in Calgary today but tomorrow i will remove the ac belt and see what happens. My a/c works real well with no problems and there is no oil under my car after it was sitting in my garage for two months.
Thanks for all the tips and will publish results tomorrow.'
For now its back into the Hottub with Susan for the nite and maybe a little movie.
Trev

 

[jdnsx]

For now its back into the Hottub with Susan for the nite and maybe a little movie.
Trev

You have to admire a man with his priorities in order.

 

[twizted]

I'm not sure about the order of his priorities. If he is going BACK into the hottub with Susan, does that mean he left the hottbub to check his replies on Prime? :biggrin:

 

[DutchBlackNsx]

I had a whine like you descibe, was the diodes in the alternator.
Check if intensity changes when flashing lights, or use another device which uses a lot of current.

 

[ffffanman]

Well, back in Edmonton.
Left some of the wine and whine in Calgary with Sue.
Read it however you want.
So Eddie came over and as suggested, he thought it might be the a/c idler pulley as well.
So off came the alternator belt, then off came the a/c belt.
No more noise.
Happy Days are here again.
So, I put on the Alternator belt and went for a rip.
Wow, must have picked up 18.325 hp without that a/c belt on.
Seems to have a lot of pep.
Just my imagination no doubt.
The bearing in the idler pulley is rough when rotated.
Now to phone Acura in the a.m. and see what I can get, then phone the local bearing shop and see how much just the bearing is worth.
Thats for tomorrow, now on to watch The Weatherman.
Thanks for all who helped. I will post some pics and fix.
Trev

 

[Larry Bastanza]

38942-PR7-A00 $81.64US list price

Applicable 1991-2005

HTH,
LarryB

 

[ffffanman]

Thanks Larry, The Canadian price is $84.12 canadian and is backordered from Japan at this time.
Thats funny that a non discounted parts price from Acura is Cheaper in Canada.
None the less, I will check on just getting the bearing from B.C. Bearing up the street and pressing it in myself.
I did this with my 85 jag 12 cyl engine's water pump bearing.
Wow, it saved hundreds of dollars. Eurasia up the street used the same fix over the years for customers, saving them big bucks.
Let you know.
Not that 84.12 is so much money. lol
Trev

 

[ffffanman]

So, I called Balu and B.C Bearing up the street and he finished the part number on the bearing before I could spit out the first two letters. Seems to be common bearing with Acura and Honda. He did mention however that Honda says that their bearing in their assembly or what they buy from NTN has tighter tolerances or something.
Balu gave me the bearing for free. I think its about $5.00.
I just simply soaked the other one in penitrating fluid overnite and then knocked it out easily with a hammer and punch and gentle tap'd the new one in.
Easy fix now that I know what the whine was.
Now for those other noises I have from the Engine bay.
Larry, get ready for some messages!!!
The bearing I got was a 6203LLBC3/2AS
Trev

 

[Owali]

Okay, I found out this morning that I have the same problem as Trev. I am not sure if I should attempt to replace the bearing only or the whole tentioner assembly. What do you guys think?

Taking off the alternator & A/C belts was easy enough. But I had to use a crescent wrench to loosen the through bolt. There is no way I can fit my torque wrench down there to tighten the through bolt and alternator nut to spec. How did you all torque these parts during the install? Is there a special tool I need to get? I dont want to over tighten the belts when I put everything back together.

Also, I am going to be ordering a lot of these OEM parts as well as some coolant hoses and expansion tank. Where do you all usually order these OEM parts from?

-Omar

 

[GreyHoundSteve]

Okay, I found out this morning that I have the same problem as Trev. I am not sure if I should attempt to replace the bearing only or the whole tenitioner assembly. What do you guys think?

Taking off the alternator & A/C belts was easy enough. But I had to use a crescent wrench to loosen the through bolt. There is no way I can fit my torque wrench down there to tighten the through bolt and alternator nut to spec. How did you all torque these parts during the install? Is there a special tool I need to get? I dont want to over tighten the belts when I put everything back together.

Also, I am going to be ordering a lot of these OEM parts as well as some coolant hoses and expansion tank. Where do you all usually order these OEM parts from?

-Omar

Call Tim at Ray Laks Acura, his number is 1-888-ray-laks. He is a great guy, has the best prices and free shipping.

I have a similar sound coming from the same area so i'll probably being ordering this part pretty soon as well. Let me know how it goes.

 

[ffffanman]

For once I am right on Prime!!!
Yahoo!!!
Trev

 

[Owali]

How did you all torque the A/C through bolt and the alternator nut to the correct specs? I don't have enough room to fit my torque wrench in there