HELP/ASAP... Do I need to replace throttle body?

RON98 said:
.... just get a can of carb cleaner, unbolt the throttly body yourself, and blast everything out. Dont mess with the throttle body sensor or you'll need to get a voltage meter and recalibrate it. Its ok tho cause you might even need to get it recalibrated.

Also check for a vacuum leak. Thats what happens when more air is coming in then calculated and your car dies. ...
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showpost.php?p=658221&postcount=19
 
oh never mind. you fixed it already.

I never trust any mechanic anywhere. My supra blew an intercooler hose on the way to vegas. Took it to the toyota dealership at victorville. They put some fresh off the boat mechanic to work on my Toyota flag ship performance car. All little punk knew how to do was pull codes from a scanner.

Also the master techs there where also FN idiots! Kid kept telling me it was my MAF sensor cause the vaccum leak threw that code. I told the dealership to put their best master tech on it. They told me they did and came up with the same conclusion. I lived 100 miles away so i wasnt able to b-slap these idiots into submission that day.

They kept try to sell me a 500$ maf sensor + labor and when i asked them if that does not fix the problem, will they refund me the part price? the idiot lady on the phone just said... nope, you'll have to spend more money to fix the problem.

I even got another maf sensor off line whiich was legit and working and they told me that was bad too.

What ended up happening was i drove out there in the rain, jacked up the car, pull the tires to get to the intercooler hoses. 30 minutes later i was done and car was fixed, guy wanted to charge me for their trouble shooting time... i almost killed the GM with my screw driver right there on the spot.

Oh ya, the kid kept saying " well the corolla's maf sensor always goes bad" as justification that mine went bad.... a corolla... buddy.... come on. :confused:

dont trust dealer worth sh8t. 1/2 of their "mechanics" start out washing cars and worked their way up to oil changes and then started using the scanners. They have no trouble shooting ability other than to plug in the scanner and tell you what it says.

deal with mechanics day in and day out, havent seen one that works at a dealership and has a ASE certification or mastertech.

hate dealers with a passion.:mad:
 
Richard L S said:
FIXED IT!!!!!


OK... first, the service rep at the dealer was a complete a$$....
He had told me that they had cleaned the throttle body and the problem was not resolved. I had spoke to Chris at SOS and was ready to have the dealer send them the throtle body for a complete cleaning. Chris told me it would take about 2 weeks to get the TB back. Of course, the service rep. told me that they couldn't give me a loaner for that long (I expected this and had already arranged for another car through a friend who is out of town for some time). Then, I questioned why it would they wanted to charge me $500 for labor when the task of removing and reinstalling the TB should be less than 2 hours of time. At this point, the service rep said to me "First, you questioned the need for the new part. Now, you are questioning the labor charges? Why don't you just pick-up your car?" I said, "No problem, I'll be there first thing in the morning to do so."

I went to an auto part store and picked up a can of throttle body cleaner (figured I'd give it one last cleaning before being without my car for at least two weeks) and then went the following morning to pick-up my car.

When I picked-up my car, it was still stalling (i.e., was on the highway at 60 miles an hour, pressed the clutch down, put it in nutral and it stalled).

After work, a friend and I went through Larry B's DIY instructions on cleaning the throttle boddy. While doing so, it was obvioius that the dealership's service dept. never even removed the tob of the airbox to get to the TB, nor had the hoses been pulled from the TB recently as they were still firmly baked on.

Less than an hour of our time later, the TB had been cleaned out, hoses reattached and airbox reinstalled. The car was a bit rough to restart at first, but once it ran for a minute, we turned it off and it started perfectly.

Then, came the real test... when I drove the car, would it still idle low and stall (telling me to send the TB to SOS), would the CEL reilluminate, or would the car work normally?

Fortunatelly, the idleing was completely normaly in the 800 RPM range. I even tried to push it by reving the engine up and letting it drop to see if that would cause it to stall, but it worked flawlessly.

Bottom line, the service rep lied to me about what they had done to try to correct the issue before recomending a $2,000+ repair and the only work needed was a $5 bottle of cleaner and an hour of time.

What would I do without this site??? I hope this helps others in the future.

Thanks to eveyone who helped with this.

Regards,

Richard
NAME THE DEALER and i will make sure i will go there next week for the servise $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ thats all will take
 
RON98 said:
1/2 of their "mechanics" start out washing cars and worked their way up to oil changes

Nothing wrong with that. It's not where you start but where you finish.:cool:
 
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