Tonight it was a little colder for August and when I tried to use the heater, I put the climate control on 90 and it was blowing out cool air and never heated up. Does anybody know why it would possibly do that. I know that my climate control doesn't work the best when on the auto setting, but I have never had a problem when I put the climate control on 60 or 90. Also, heat has never been a problem. Anybody know what I can do to fix this situation? Thanks for any help that you could provide.
Heater doesn't seem to be working right
- Thread starter jlindy
- Start date
I found some info on this http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28527&highlight=no+heat
If it is a bubble in the heater core, how do you flush it? Also, what does the control arm that activates the heater look like that BrianK was talking about?
If it is a bubble in the heater core, how do you flush it? Also, what does the control arm that activates the heater look like that BrianK was talking about?
- Joined
- 23 July 2004
- Messages
- 105
i had a similar problem but haven't had to use the heat because of the wheather. let me know if it works for you and i'll give it a try when i get a chance.
jlindy said:
Sounds like you have a problem with the mode control motor or the circuit in the climate control unit that drives it. Check the coolant control valve up front and see if it moves when going from 68 - 90 degrees.
Ok, I took this to my mechanic and he says that the heater control valve is not opening to let the heat in. The valve can't be bad because it is controlled by a cable so the as Brian said, the motor that controls it is bad or the part of the climate control that powers it bad. My mechanic doesn't know what to do at this point, and I don't want to go with the shotgun approach and buy a new climate control board. How can you tell if it is the board or the motor? Any suggestions?
Jeff, I have a spare board if you want to use it for diagnoses. If it works, great. You could just find another board and have it repaired to replace the one I lent you.jlindy said:
I am going to put Gene's repaired climate control board in my car to see if it fixes the problem, but before I do, I have one last question. If the heater control valve doesn't open when climate control is on 90 degrees, can it still be a bubble in the heater core or has that problem been ruled out based on what I have been told by my mechanic? Thanks in advance.
Disconnect the cable, (push the cable clip up) and manually move the water valve to "open" If the heat "comes a blastin" you will know
.
HTH,
LarryB
.HTH,
LarryB
Larry, I sent you a PM. Thanks for any help.
Update, my mechanic got it to heat up the hoses with the valve manually opened after some fidgeting so it looks like the bubble isn't in the heater core anymore. However, new problems when I ran the diagnostic that shows any open or shorted circuits and came up with the following errors:
Ambiant Temp Sensor
Air Mix Control Motor
Mode Control Motor
The defrost setting no longer blows air out the top of the dash, so I am hoping it is just the climate control board finally giving out. Don't know what else it could be? Any suggestions?
Update, my mechanic got it to heat up the hoses with the valve manually opened after some fidgeting so it looks like the bubble isn't in the heater core anymore. However, new problems when I ran the diagnostic that shows any open or shorted circuits and came up with the following errors:
Ambiant Temp Sensor
Air Mix Control Motor
Mode Control Motor
The defrost setting no longer blows air out the top of the dash, so I am hoping it is just the climate control board finally giving out. Don't know what else it could be? Any suggestions?
Ok, I put Gene's rebuilt climate control board and it seemed to clear up most of the problems. The heater works now, the defrost mode is working, but not blowing as hard as I remember though. (maybe it is just me) The diagnostic shows that only the ambient temp sensor has a short circuit so I may have to get one of those. How much are those?
Thanks for your help Gene.
Thanks for your help Gene.
I"m so glad I found this thread. I am having the exact same problems.
I took my CC unit out and opened it up but couldn't see any obvious issues there.
Humor me on this but where is the heater valve located?
I can literally hear and see the blend door moving from one position to the other when I press the correct button but I don't get airflow up top on defrost. My temp control doesn't control either.
I took my CC unit out and opened it up but couldn't see any obvious issues there.
Humor me on this but where is the heater valve located?
I can literally hear and see the blend door moving from one position to the other when I press the correct button but I don't get airflow up top on defrost. My temp control doesn't control either.
Thanks for the tip. I went out and looked and found it.jlindy said:
I assume by reading this that when I change either temp/defrost or something like that, the cable should move??? Mine doesn't.
The air will freeze you out in a matter of minutes but no heat.
92NSX said:Thanks for the tip. I went out and looked and found it.
I assume by reading this that when I change either temp/defrost or something like that, the cable should move??? Mine doesn't.
The air will freeze you out in a matter of minutes but no heat.
Yes, that is correct. It should move, but mine didn't either.
The Ambient Air sensor is up front by the front bumper. It probably just got disconnected, but even is you need a new one it is only $45 or so. Your picjlindy said:
here (post 13) shows the connector for it dangling down. The same thread has pics of the sensor, part number is P/N 80520-SL0-A01.
I found the ambient temp sensor a month ago before I started having problems and plugged it in. It didn't really do anything, so maybe it was broken. I found it under the bottom level of the bumper/grill area. I was jammed underneath. I should probably get a new one, but not sure how much of a difference it will make based upon what I have heard from others that have connected it with no change.
Run the CCU diagnostics in the thread I previously linked to. If it shows up as either shorted or disconnected, I would certainly get another one. Mine was off spec reistancewise, but not showing up at the CCU as disconnected or shorted. I replaced it, and the car holds interior temperature on 'full auto' much better now.
That sensor would not have anything to do with a lack of heat if your CCU is set at 90 though. I don't know what is causing that.
Good luck finding the fix!
That sensor would not have anything to do with a lack of heat if your CCU is set at 90 though. I don't know what is causing that.
Good luck finding the fix!
jlindy said:
Can you manually move the lever without breaking, provided you do it carefully? Or can you remove it? But then water would run everywhere right?
92NSX said:
You can un-clip the cable and move the valve by hand. Doing that will only prove that the valve is not frozzen. There is also a damper driven by the same motor that moves the valve that controls how much air goes through the heater core. In your case is more then likely closed so even if you get the valve open and the core hot you will still not get any amount of heat.
Briank said:
I can change from recirc to fresh air and hear the motor working and actually see the damper door moving but no air comes from defroster area.
