FYI on how tough it is to remove the stock antenna..

[nsxotic911]

Wanted to share for anyone thinking about doing this that doesn't have the finest hands, skillset and experience.

The whole experience sucked .Getting to the nut on top of the fender was a nightmare that resulted in some slight paint cracking around the whole on the fender(wich I can put a rubber gasket around anyway..) and I basically had to tear into it with a plier. It was a hack job. I would highly recommend paying your dealership 1/2 or 1 hour of labor so you can get them to repaint the car if they damage the fender............seriously.

I know, someone with more finesse hands could have done it better, but for the 1.5 lbs of saving, the energy required and risk >>>> benefit.

.....
Good luck.

 

[brahtw8]

Was this purely about weight reduction?

A smartenna would seem to be a much more elegant solution to what most consider to be the problem with the stock antenna.

 

[POWERED by HONDA]

Honda sells an "Antenna Nut Wrench" to assist on the removal of that antenna nut. Matco also has kits as well.

Thought I'm not sure if auto parts stores loan these kits out.

--Conrad

 

[Doc308]

I bought an antenna nut wrench from the JC Whitney catalog for very cheap. It worked well in removing the nut on my '92 antenna.

 

[nsxotic911]

Damn, if I only knew that there were special tools. WTF? I don't remember the 1997 manual saying about the need of a special tool.

Yes, this is for maxium weight reduction and the fact that I don't have an FM player means I have dead weight.... in the rear which is already heavy enough :tongue:

 

[RYU]

I just installed my shark antenna a couple of days ago. Thankfully, without any drama. I used c-clip pliers to help remove the top mounting nut. I have one in my tool box but you can find them for $~5 and is a useful tool for other things.

One thing I did not like about the Shark Antenna mounting system is how the locking washer meets with the aluminum body panel. That washer has 4 sharp edges which prevents it from spinning while tightening but also has the potential of piercing the thin body panel or at least denting it. If you ever wanted to install the oem antenna back this would be a concern. My solution was to hand tighten the nut on the base using a 19mm or a 21mm socket (can't remember) and hope it didn't pierce or dent through.

 

[OLDMNSX]

So who would like to have an OEM antenna that only comes up either 17in or 24 in?

If you want it to come up 17in, it is really easy. All you have to do is remove the antenna motor housing and rotate it 180 degrees. This changes the polarity of the magnets and makes the motor run backwards. The timing wheel inside then limits the travel of the antenna mast. The first time that you actuate the antenna after this procedure causes the clutch to slip until it reaches the stop, then it will only come up 17in.

If you want it to come up 24in this procedure is much more indepth. Remove the antenna, remove the back cover, NOT THE ROUND ONE. Remove the two small gears, remove the timing wheel and assembly. The timing assembly is held together with hook arms on the back. Look at the back side. Carefully split the two pieces and remove the timing wheel. Take a small Dremel or like tool with a side cutting wheel and trim the timing wheel to the frist anchor point going counter clockwise from the null. Thim out this piece and smooth the cut edge. Stick it back together and now you have a 24in OEM antenna.

As soon as I figure out how to post big pictures I will do so.

Brad

 

[enkrypt3d]

Any ideas on how to remove the antenna motor on the inside of the trunk? I didn't see any screws that hold this thing in place....

I also used some needle nose pliers to loosen the top nut but it just spins....... what am I missing? Also on the shark antenna, theres a red lead and a big black cable - I have no idea where to plug those in......?

 

[NSXclear]

There is a nut that holds the antenna from the inside. If fogot what size it is. You probably need a deep socket. Put some rags or tin foil down in the fender cavity in case you drop the nut. Try 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm and 19mm. Those are the typical size nuts on this car.

You can use a specialize antenna tool from Harbor Freight or just use a flat head screw driver to spin the outside top nut. You have to hold the bottom inside nut in place with a socket.

 

[enkrypt3d]

There is a nut that holds the antenna from the inside. If fogot what size it is. You probably need a deep socket. Put some rags or tin foil down in the fender cavity in case you drop the nut. Try 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm and 19mm. Those are the typical size nuts on this car.

You can use a specialize antenna tool from Harbor Freight or just use a flat head screw driver to spin the outside top nut. You have to hold the bottom inside nut in place with a socket.

http://www.locustom.com/nsx_install.htm

I was just reading this but it doesn't say I need any special tools (other than the top nut) ......so I guess I can't do this with my dinky tool kit haha

 

[NSXclear]

I think I'm wrong. It's been a long time since I've taken mine off. There is no nut on the inside holding the mask. Only the 3 10mm nut that holds the assembly.

 

[RYU]

not sure where the trouble is, but to me, on a scale of 1 to 5 on the difficulty rating this is about a 1.5. No special tools needed if you really want to backyard-garage it. Just get a larger channel lock pliers with a thin rag and wrap it around the top mounting nut (the chrome round nut on top). Be careful not to scratch the body paint like I believe the OP did on accident. You will also run the risk of scuffing up the nut but if you're not going to reuse it anymore then who cares... The bolts holding the bracket and the antenna motor/base requires a 10mm socket and ratchet.

This was all the guide I needed - http://www.locustom.com/nsx_install.htm

The more PITA part is tightening the shark lock nut and doing the red wire pwr wiring. Still shouldn't be a difficult process though. Just take your time and think through it.