I totally agree on this and was hoping the discussion would move in this direction but I guess it's probably best in another thread.
For those running 235's at the front.
- Thread starter MetalSpikeRacing
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I totally agree on this and was hoping the discussion would move in this direction but I guess it's probably best in another thread.
The issue that needs to be emphasized here is that the 235/40/17 will RUB like crazy without modifications that not everyone is willing to do (hammering, removing liners, etc.)
Then, even after these mods it will most likely still rub, and if the car is lowered much beyond bilsteins on lower perch/OEM springs then you will most certainly risk desroying one or both fenders if driven on the street.
I notice it is mostly track guys who use the 235/40/17 - and for good reason ( the car never sees full lock much, and never turns while going on and out of driveways / parking lots, etc.
I am not trying to rain on anyone's parade - I just hate to see people dissapointed.
It has been said before, if you want more traction, get a stickier tire, if you really think you need it , you can run a toyo R888 (wich is wider in this size than most 215's) or RA-1 in 205/40/17 and I seriously doubt you will ever need more than that (I have the R888's on my RZ's.
Just take a look at those who run the 235's, most of them are at a pretty high ride height, if lowered more their problems would be pretty serious.
Then, even after these mods it will most likely still rub, and if the car is lowered much beyond bilsteins on lower perch/OEM springs then you will most certainly risk desroying one or both fenders if driven on the street.
I notice it is mostly track guys who use the 235/40/17 - and for good reason ( the car never sees full lock much, and never turns while going on and out of driveways / parking lots, etc.
I am not trying to rain on anyone's parade - I just hate to see people dissapointed.
It has been said before, if you want more traction, get a stickier tire, if you really think you need it , you can run a toyo R888 (wich is wider in this size than most 215's) or RA-1 in 205/40/17 and I seriously doubt you will ever need more than that (I have the R888's on my RZ's.
Just take a look at those who run the 235's, most of them are at a pretty high ride height, if lowered more their problems would be pretty serious.
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Ok,
So before I went and bought 235's I went ahead and put the 15mm spacers and 235's will not work with them.
Here are a couple pictures I just took going up my driveway, and here are the specs.
Front wheel. 17x8 +48, minus a 15mm spacer now you have 17x8 +33 on a 235/40/17 Falke RT-615.
Originally I was going to run a 10mm spacer and 235's, but you can do your own conclusions from here.
Note; the RT-615's are usually thinner and other tires.
I wanted to dropped the car another half inch, but I dont think that would happen.
So before I went and bought 235's I went ahead and put the 15mm spacers and 235's will not work with them.
Here are a couple pictures I just took going up my driveway, and here are the specs.
Front wheel. 17x8 +48, minus a 15mm spacer now you have 17x8 +33 on a 235/40/17 Falke RT-615.
Originally I was going to run a 10mm spacer and 235's, but you can do your own conclusions from here.
Note; the RT-615's are usually thinner and other tires.
I wanted to dropped the car another half inch, but I dont think that would happen.
Since about a week I am the lucky owner of a 1998 NSX.
I have just replaced the OEM wheels with my OZ wheels. The front ones still had the 235/40/17 tires on them.
The car is running on stock OEM shocks and I have found the tires do NOT rub at all at the moment.
This weekend I am planning to put my TEIN-RA suspension on the car again which will also lower the car. I probably will have the tires rubbing at full lock again.
I also know the next time I will go back to the 225/35 tires I had before though.
I have just replaced the OEM wheels with my OZ wheels. The front ones still had the 235/40/17 tires on them.
The car is running on stock OEM shocks and I have found the tires do NOT rub at all at the moment.
This weekend I am planning to put my TEIN-RA suspension on the car again which will also lower the car. I probably will have the tires rubbing at full lock again.
I also know the next time I will go back to the 225/35 tires I had before though.
I SINCERELY hope that NOBODY else needs to learn this lesson again -
ONLY USE THIS TIRE SIZE IF YOU TRACK AND KNOW THE CONSEQUENCES.
PERIOD.
No offence to you manuel, you are a great guy, just don't want to see you damage your car!:smile:
since we are talking 235 up front ,my 235/40/17 ra1's(track setup,which I drive to and from the track) on ssr type c wheels 7.5 inch btw , only rub on the inner fender wall not the outer lip . I'm lowered slightly on the na2 type R susp.
No worries Will, With the photos I was actually showing people that 235's would bring alot of issues, I will shave 5mm of my spacer so I can lower the car a little more for the tire to tuck without problems.
-MSR
If billy never sees this let me help you...your goal is to have your hot tire pressure meaning the average pressure on track at the optimal pressure rating for that tire,so if that is say 40 psi for a street tire then you want to start with a lower cold pressure to allow the tire to increase to 40 psi.So you have to figure out how many psi you tires increase in a track session and adjust down or up to hit your hot target.It all depends on how hot the temp is sunny ect and the track and your driving.Oh and having a fancy suspension means little in all this:wink:
I thought the fancy suspension would allow me to go flat and still be fine??
LOLOK Doc, so are you saying keep pressure on F&R the same? You know what? don't reply here. I don't want to hijack this thread. If you don't mind replying on my new thread in track talk.
Read Post #2 & 5 in that other thread. It dosn't hurt to try targeting both OEM and lets say 38psi HOT front and rear on the stock sizes and see which one you like better.
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Bump from the dead! Lots of good info here so figured I would bring it to some new eyeballs :smile:
To summarize this thread...
You can run 235/40/17 up front IF you:
1) Remove a/c condenser shroud in the front wheel well
2) Push a little bit of metal inside the wheel well around (or deal with rubbing inside the wheel well at full lock) - details that I don't fully understand in a few posts above
3) Run +38 offset or greater offset, preferably at 17x8 or 17x8.5 (per Billy 17x7.5 works but presumably narrower wheel = less stretch = taller tire)
This is probably only a good idea/worth the trouble IF:
1) The car is mostly or entirely a track car.
2) In the case that uneven wear front to rear over the life of the tires causes TCS issues you are wiling to turn the TCS off and drive around without it.
To summarize this thread...
You can run 235/40/17 up front IF you:
1) Remove a/c condenser shroud in the front wheel well
2) Push a little bit of metal inside the wheel well around (or deal with rubbing inside the wheel well at full lock) - details that I don't fully understand in a few posts above
3) Run +38 offset or greater offset, preferably at 17x8 or 17x8.5 (per Billy 17x7.5 works but presumably narrower wheel = less stretch = taller tire)
This is probably only a good idea/worth the trouble IF:
1) The car is mostly or entirely a track car.
2) In the case that uneven wear front to rear over the life of the tires causes TCS issues you are wiling to turn the TCS off and drive around without it.
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