Fixed my PGMFI main relay!!!!

[cmthomson]

bonjour, pouvez vous me dire ou puis je acheter le relais principal? j'ai beaucoup de petites pièces a acheter pour ma NSX OEM (boulons, écrous, joints, relais, etc etc...), je ne trouve pas de boutique en ligne qui expédie en Europe, pouvez vous m'aider? je vous remercie beaucoup l'ami! :smile:

Rough translation: Can you tell me a good place to buy parts in Europe?


Sorry, can't help you with that; I just have my tech buy parts from Acura (they sure are starting to get expensive).

But I doubt you need a relay. Mine was in perfect condition (after 18 years); only the solder on the board needed retouching.

 

[Thunder]

Rough translation: Can you tell me a good place to buy parts in Europe?


Sorry, can't help you with that; I just have my tech buy parts from Acura (they sure are starting to get expensive).

But I doubt you need a relay. Mine was in perfect condition (after 18 years); only the solder on the board needed retouching.

no, the translation; is not good, I ask… know a distributor ACURA in the USA which sendings of the parts oem NSX towards Europe? I do not find, thank you for your assistance the guy! :smile:

 

[LJSB]

I have seen these re-soldered main relays fail.
Re-soldered or not this item can go without warning.

The resulting headaches of having them fail on the road has been remarkable in some circumstances.

Towing costs, weather, the location, the time of day or the day of week, dealer inventory can impact the event significantly in terms of cost, safety and inconvenience.

I keep a new one in my car for the big who knows where or when surprise this part failure can be.

Cheap insurance and I won't have to call my flatbed.:biggrin:

 

[Jett]

..can you say or buy it to me main relay and the n° of main relay for my 1992 NSX?

Le numéro de pièce est 39400-SLO-003. Idem pour les manuels ou automatiques. Il est le troisième élément de cette liste. Il est un distributeur de pièces Honda en Belgique.

The part number for the 1992 NSX main relay is 39400-SLO-003. Same for manual or automatic. It is the third item in the list found here. There is a Honda parts distributor in Belgium.

Bonne Chance! (Good Luck!)

 

[Thunder]

merci Jett, mais, il est impossible d'acheter des pièces sur ce site, c'est une "vitrine" de pup et de présentation de Honda, importation de voitures rien n'est prévu pour acheter des pièces oem...je préfère acheter aux USA, merci beaucoup

thank you Jett, but, it is impossible to buy parts on this site, it's a " vitrine" of pup and presentation of Honda, car import, nothing parts oem… I am designed to buy prefer to buy in the USA, thank you very much

 

[zoomspeed05]

awesome info!

 

[Tru_Shine]

Glad I just found this, now lets go try it out.....maybe my car will start this time!

 

[SFNSXguy]

merci Jett, mais, il est impossible d'acheter des pièces sur ce site, c'est une "vitrine" de pup et de présentation de Honda, importation de voitures rien n'est prévu pour acheter des pièces oem...je préfère acheter aux USA, merci beaucoup

thank you Jett, but, it is impossible to buy parts on this site, it's a " vitrine" of pup and presentation of Honda, car import, nothing parts oem… I am designed to buy prefer to buy in the USA, thank you very much

Si vous pouvez m'envoyer une liste de numéros de la pièce des lesquels vous avez besoin, je peux les trouver ici et te les envoyer. OK?

 

[Nukem]

I have seen these re-soldered main relays fail.
Re-soldered or not this item can go without warning.

The resulting headaches of having them fail on the road has been remarkable in some circumstances.

Towing costs, weather, the location, the time of day or the day of week, dealer inventory can impact the event significantly in terms of cost, safety and inconvenience.

I keep a new one in my car for the big who knows where or when surprise this part failure can be.

Cheap insurance and I won't have to call my flatbed.:biggrin:

Think I am going to resolder my old one, and just buy a new one to keep for that rainy day.

 

[Tru_Shine]

This didn't fix my starting issue. I hear the main relay click, and I believe I hear the pump priming, but my engine isn't getting any fuel? Maybe my fuel pump has gone bad?

 

[BryanZublin]

Hi Guys, long time no post. Last February my 92 NSX with 105K miles would not start. The engine turned over but would not fire. I had it towed home and tried again, this time it started. So obviously an intermittent problem. A quick search led me to this post and I made a mental note of how to proceed.

Fast forward to last night when I finally decided it was time to take action. I was able to remove the PGMFI relay after removing only one panel but it was a bit tricky to unplug the connectors since the lower panel partially covers the connectors. A visual inspection revealed one really bad looking solder joint and a few that looked marginal. I removed the old solder from the bad joint and added new solder. I also removed some of the solder mask to expose the copper so that the solder pad area is increased. I'll attempt to attach some photos.

 

[Old Guy]

The stuff you removed is not mask. It is a film called conformal coating which is sprayed on to the circuit board to prevent / reduce corrosion on the solder joints. When doing solder rework it is best to remove this mask in the area being repaired as it makes the repairs difficult. Also, depending on the type of coating if it gets on the tip of your iron (if you are not doing hot air) it can contaminate the surface and make tinning of the iron difficult which results in poor heat transfer. There are different types of conformal coatings; but, I have found that acetone is generally effective at removing acrylic coatings. For small repair areas apply with a cotton swab. It may take a couple of applications and some hard scrubbing to get it off. After completing the repair, respray with new coating to prevent deterioration of the repaired solder joint.

 

[BryanZublin]

I removed both the conformal coating (with acetone & q-tip) and the green solder mask (with x-acto knife). You can see in the image the scratches on the board. The conformal coating is easily removed with the acetone. I did not reapply any conformal coating after the rework since I am not worried about corrosion since the unit is in a benign environment.

 

[Old Guy]

Ah!

On a second look I can see the original edges of the solder stop mask around the pad in photo #2 . I was too focused on the brownish stuff that looked like it had been applied with a paint brush.

 

[slannynsx]

I got a PM asking where exactly the relay is.

Here are photos of the appropriate pages in the service manual. The first shows where the relay is, and the second shows the trim pieces you need to remove to get at it. If you're lucky, only one trim piece needs to be removed (labeled 2, Rear Center Trim Panel).

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/album.php?albumid=402&pictureid=2033
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/album.php?albumid=402&pictureid=2034

Hi,
I have a 92 nsx that won't start and I'm suspecting the main relay may have solder cracks (I have a 94 civic as well and soldered the joints myself). Is the main relay behind the Rear Center Trim Panel? Do I need to remove the Rear Upper Trim Panel first, before removing the Rear Center Trim Panel? I've never touched the trim panels and would hate to damage anything in the process.
Do the clips pull straight out and will they get broken easily? I've read to remove clips on top then the Upper Trim Panel should be pulled up and would release the bottom clips...
Since you have already done it before I'd greatly appreciate it if you could give me some pointers? Thanks in advance

 

[slannynsx]

accessing main relay

You made my day :smile:

You're telling exactly what happened to me. After reading I ran to my NSX, pulled out the main relay and saw a cracked solder joint. I soldered it and everything was solved.

Thanx

Hi,
I have a '92 NSX and I saw your post in a thread on main relay solder cracks causing starting problems. You wrote that you have taken out the main relay and re-soldered cracked joints yourself. My car won't start now and I suspect the main relay has solder cracks (I also have a '94 Civic with the same problem and soldered it myself). I was wondering if you could give me some pointers on how to remove the trim panels (which piece to start, what tools to use, what to watch out for...) because I'd hate to damage anything in the process. Thank you so much.

 

[natcc99]

I was wondering if you could give me some pointers on how to remove the trim panels (which piece to start, what tools to use, what to watch out for...) because I'd hate to damage anything in the process. Thank you so much.

Hello
The links provided by @cmthomson are spot on. You should be able to follow that.

Tip: Start by removing rear upper trim panel. The top of it has clips that come straight out. The bottom has hooks that grabs to the left & right lower trim panels.
You should be able to see the main relay by now. If not, you can always remove the left and right lower trim panels. They come straight out, no hooks or any surprises.

Note: The back of the rear upper trim panel is a paper-like material. So, be careful pulling. It's an old car so you know the drill.

Good luck.

 

[DJR]

Hi - my ‘96 died the other day and wouldn’t start. I also did not hear the fuel pump prime during the first 2-seconds when key to “ON”. Had it flat-bed towed home and the driver was super nice and even was able to unload it right into my garage. Viewed a bunch of these posts, including “car won’t start”; took out the main relay and tested according to the manual (apply 12V across pins 4 & 8 and then measure continuity across pins 5 & 7 and no continuity. I then resoldered all pins and now the fuel pump primes and the car starts. I still ordered a new main relay from Rock Auto ($40) and will install when I receive it and keep the re-soldered original for the spare. Good luck!