Thanks guys.:smile:
first repair-- cv joint - heads up
- Thread starter ralph cerbone
- Start date
I redid my CV boots I had just the fine line of grease...not sure how long it was there. The amount of grease in the boot seemed to be about 60-70% of what I replaced it with.
Jeff
Jeff
<img src="http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43190&d=1213643184" />
I just did my cv boot replacement and used the tool pictured above to push the axles out of the hubs. It's available from Autozone as a free loaner (basically you pay $25 to "buy it" then they refund your money when you return it). I had tried banging one axle out with the hammer method, but with the hub dangling free, I could get no movement with the hammer as the suspension's movement would dampen the blow.
So I went to buy the hub/axle pusher tool and found out I could use it for free. It worked great. I had to use an impact gun on the drivers side to get the axle moving, but the passenger side slid right out with just a 1/2" ratchet. That side axle must have come out before while the left side has probably been in there since 1991.
The whole job is really not hard at all, just very messy. I took my time with the first one and it took about 3.5 hours total for the left side. I found the two hardest things were getting the new inner set ring back on and then holding the bearings on the spider correctly to slide the joint over the assembly. You almost need 3-4 hands to hold everything in line and the grease just gets everywhere if it takes you too long. That said, the second axle took only about 1.5 hours to R&R start to finish and it wasn't as messy since I knew what to expect.
One question: In doing the 1st axle, I marked the position of the inner joint spider and reinstalled it in the same place (trying to get it exactly opposite the positioning of the outer spider). It did not seem perfectly opposite when I viewed down the shaft to the opposite end. It almost looked like it was one spline off, but moving it one spline made it still look "off" but in the other direction. I settled on the position I had marked it and reassembled everything and have put that axle back in the car. Now that I've just done the second axle, its spiders seemed exactly aligned 60 degrees apart. So now I question whether the 1st axle is right. I wonder if I should take apart the first one and try repositioning the spider to be perfect. Obviously, I'd have to get some new boot bands, and the job is more work that I'd rather not do, but I also don't want to cause damage. If the spider is off one spline, say 5 degrees, will that prevent the proper articulation and cause it to wear out prematurely?
David
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Ok the autozone people in my area are dumb. I showed them a picture of this tool and they still had no idea what it is.
What 'exactly' is this tool called? I'd be more than willing to just purchase it but doing a google search on 'Attachment 43190' doesn't get me anywhere.
thanks for your time,
x
What 'exactly' is this tool called? I'd be more than willing to just purchase it but doing a google search on 'Attachment 43190' doesn't get me anywhere.
thanks for your time,
x
From my Autozone receipt:
27037 OEM Flange Axle Puller Front Wheel Drive $25.00.
This matched the part number on the box 27037, the manufacturer's name on the tool is "OEM".
Hmm...I just used the double hammer method BUT I kept the axle nut on the threads for as long as I could, for fear of mushrooming the head of the threads. Been there, done that, at work :frown:.
i usually do the nut on the axle and then a soft mallet.
if that does not work i go with my snapon bearing puller.
if that does not work i go with my snapon bearing puller.
David
Just my opinion, since I recently completed both of my axels, you have done all you can do. It will be just fine. I found on one of my axels that both of the spiders were exactly in line with each other! Now that's not good.
Sleep well tonight and don't worry about it. It's OK.
Brad
Well, after looking at the CV axle again mounted on the car, it actually does appear that the spiders are correctly 60 degrees apart. Maybe it was just the way it was sitting on the workbench or the fact that it was 2:30 a.m. At the time, it looked slightly wrong. But now I'm totally comfortable with the job.
After working on it some last night, I have now finished almost all that I wanted to accomplish during this maintenance go-round: all CV axle boots renewed, installed new Comptech headers with all new manifold, cat and muffler gaskets, new NTK O2 sensors, welded-in SOS oil pan baffle, new oil pan gasket, new pcv valve, new Honda MTF, Mobil1 10W30 with new Honda 15400-PL2-004 long filter, Dali air intake scoop, aluminum mesh grilles for the side vents, Okuyama rear strut brace, NSX-R chassis bars. Tonight or tomorrow, I'll try to put in some new spool valve filter/gaskets and o-rings for the oil pressure switch. Plus I'm waiting on an NSX-R front stabilizer bar coming Thursday, so then I can slap that on and get back to enjoying the car for a while.
I have to say - the help received on this site has been tremendous. Thanks, guys!
David
David,
If you didn't take note of the positioning of the spiders during maintenance you can look at the axel assembly and determine if they are correct, even on the car. Look at the CV joint housing construction.
There are three indentations or concave areas on the outside of the joint. Now look at the opposite CV joint and see that the concave areas DO NOT line up with the concave areas on the other joint.
If you have a question take a look at page 16-7 in the NSX OEM service manual. If so, you are OK. If not, you need to adjust one end. Other than the labor you would only need one boot band. Hopefully you don't need to.
Brad
If you didn't take note of the positioning of the spiders during maintenance you can look at the axel assembly and determine if they are correct, even on the car. Look at the CV joint housing construction.
There are three indentations or concave areas on the outside of the joint. Now look at the opposite CV joint and see that the concave areas DO NOT line up with the concave areas on the other joint.
If you have a question take a look at page 16-7 in the NSX OEM service manual. If so, you are OK. If not, you need to adjust one end. Other than the labor you would only need one boot band. Hopefully you don't need to.
Brad
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Thanks Brad, I did notice the three indentations and that's how I confirmed that I do not need to redo the job. While doing the CV job, I did take note of the spider positions and even marked them. But one of them just looked a little bit off at the time. After looking again, I see they are fine.
Overall, the CV job was not really as hard as I expected. The front header was a bit tricky only because of the large beam and center motor mount bolt. Now I have the satisfaction of knowing the car is good to go for a while.
David
