just got a spa yellow 97, has 85k miles ,on test ride cv joints were quiet, took out last week and pass. side started to make typical joint noise , next day ser man came from Helms, once i saw how honda built their axles i knew what problem was ,i searched all the threads on cv joints , heres a heads up, our joint s are not like a normal front wheel drive, we use plunge joints on both sides of the axle (there is no rzeepa joint ) the outboard joint is spring loaded to force the in board axle stub against a plastic button in the inner joint(it is not shown in parts break down ) as grease gets old or if car sits ,inner joint will hang up on transfer and produce cv noise , removed axle as per man, nboard joint need to be cleaned and lube , outboard joint was not bad, serviced both , everything o.k. ,
first repair-- cv joint - heads up
- Thread starter ralph cerbone
- Start date
Hi Ralph,
This a very common issue. It is very rare I do not perform this maintenance on an NSX when it is in for service. The issue is after some time, the grease breaks down and gets like melted ice cream
. The grease will start to leak out, leaving a grease line on the engine block. The inner passenger side is always the issue, since this is in a very high heat area. The is worse on cars with aftermarlket headers
.
Regards,
LarryB
This a very common issue. It is very rare I do not perform this maintenance on an NSX when it is in for service. The issue is after some time, the grease breaks down and gets like melted ice cream
. The grease will start to leak out, leaving a grease line on the engine block. The inner passenger side is always the issue, since this is in a very high heat area. The is worse on cars with aftermarlket headers.Regards,
LarryB
This a very common issue. It is very rare I do not perform this maintenance on an NSX when it is in for service. The issue is after some time, the grease breaks down and gets like melted ice cream
Regards,
LarryB
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the input.
How can I check if I might have the same problem?
What kind of noise are you guys talking about?
the noise is a clicking sound mostly on take off, put the window down it is clear as a bell, also look under the car as larry said you can see the boot leaking, grease on the heat shield , cv joints are like a vacuum cleaner if grease is getting out moisture is getting in , follow the manual for joint service
My 03 right cv joint needed to be replaced at 6,500 miles.
Don @ Hilltop auto found it while installing my camber kit. It left a nice mess inside my wheel :frown:, but it didn't make any noise.
Don @ Hilltop auto found it while installing my camber kit. It left a nice mess inside my wheel :frown:, but it didn't make any noise.
you were lucky your tech caught it right away ,for some reason your boot tore ,if it was a fwd cv joint (rzeepa ) it would be shot in a few hours of driving, as the axle goes thru its travel it will spit out the grease& suck in what ever is out there (water or road grit ) our joints on both ends are tripod or plunge joints , a little more forgiving !!!
Has anyone had the outer cvs (stub axel) stuck in the hub?? Any suggestions??
I have a press that bolts onto the hub (wheel mounting studs) even with an Air Impact they are not budging. Considering making fixture to use hydraulic press??
Thanks Bryan.
I have a press that bolts onto the hub (wheel mounting studs) even with an Air Impact they are not budging. Considering making fixture to use hydraulic press??
Thanks Bryan.
typically the CV joint are very good at taking abuse and you can drive for a long time on a ripped boot or a joint that is low on grease.
however according to some educational literature I have read, a CV joint can start having really problems on as little as 20 hours of drive time after the joint has been exposed to contamination.
From expereince, if you catch the joint as soon as the boot breaks or when you see first sign of grease break down, you can clean out the joint, repack it with new grease and be on your way.
often if you hear a little clicking you can still at that time regrease the joint and have a workable unit.
you can use a hydraulic press if you really have to.
usually the nsx axles come out with a rubber mallet, when things get really tough, I turn to my snap-on bearing puller.
had an axle once take 12 tons of pressure on the press and not budge. :biggrin: thats the extreme case.
had to use oil, torch, and this snap on setup.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330240868136
I think its good for 15 tons of pressure.
do not buy a cheap set from AutoZone as they will brake and snap with dangerous results (first hand expereince) :biggrin:
good luck.
lube it then hit it with air hammer , if really stuck I like to take the nut off then drive the car around a bit - never fails!
if you do this you need to keep driving and checking it then as soon as it is loose tighten it up and drive back ( leave the center cap off the wheel so you can get a socket in there)
if you do this you need to keep driving and checking it then as soon as it is loose tighten it up and drive back ( leave the center cap off the wheel so you can get a socket in there)
I think Larry's write-up suggested lubing it and then putting the ball of a small ball peen hammer in the machined recess on the stub end and then beating the hammer end of the small ball peen with another (bigger) hammer. This is what I had to do. Took a while. As you shock it, keep spraying liquid wrench in there.
Bill
There is a penetrating oil in the aviation world called Aero-Kroil that is hands down the damndist stuff in the world. IT WORKS. Spray it on and wait 10 min, hit it like your trying to drive it to China for the shock and then it should tap out. As the other lads have said, maybe some heat. Bronze hammers should be all that you need.
CAUTION!! If you hit the face of a hammer with the ball end of another in the recess WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!! The two hammers together can break explosively and put out an eye or worse. As always a little commom sense goes along way.
When reassembling always coat the splines with anti-sieze. Treat it like your going to be the next guy working on it as Larry said, because in our world you probibly will be.
Cheers
nigel
CAUTION!! If you hit the face of a hammer with the ball end of another in the recess WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!! The two hammers together can break explosively and put out an eye or worse. As always a little commom sense goes along way.
When reassembling always coat the splines with anti-sieze. Treat it like your going to be the next guy working on it as Larry said, because in our world you probibly will be.
Cheers
nigel
Yes, I should have added that, but it's hard to include every detail, but that is an important one. I wear eye protection during any hammer use or compressed air use and everyone else should do the same. :smile:
.ok. things are out of control , when i instruct i never let people give out bad information, you NEVER strike a hammer with a hammer, i am living proof,i have my own 1/2 " measuring (tape) scar on the inside of my right elbow (18 yrs old ,taking a ring and pinion out of a F800 dump trk, pumped with every beat , high school graduation night-- never forget) ,i worked with a gun ho foreman that is blind in one from striking a hammer with a hammer, there are better and safer ways, Angus, Nigel both in right direction, i am not an nsx expert but dont tell me about stubborn shafts and pins, i,ve been working on cars,motorcyles,boats ,snowmobiles ,heavy equipt,for thirty years, also instructing for 15 yrs , sorry for the rant , i know iam new to site but this stuff sets me off!!!!!!
Does anyone know how much $$$$ a cv joint service costs and about how long it takes? also I read the posts in the thread, and I intend to read them again but how long can someone go once it's been noticed to the time it goes for service? what kind of damage can it cause?
Absoluteley! That is a major no-no , yes I have done it before , and yes it is wrong , if you want to hit it , use an air hammer with a bit that fits in the hole in the center of the shaft, make sure the nut is on so you don't mushroom the end. But if this won't budge it , just loosen the nut and drive around , I have never had this fail me and I have run into some seriously stubborn axles! Also, remember to never-seize the splines after so it won't happen again!
Angus your right on, the worst hub i ever pulled was on a 67 VW micro bus, flowers and all brought back to n.y. from san fran in 1974 i told the owner i loosened the axle nut & iwanted to take it for a ride (i beat that axle puller severly and i have removed many of this style) he jumped in the pass. seat fired up a joint , i just drove ,i dont know how he heard it but told me he herd a pop.put it back on lift ,came off -no problem -fixed his brakes he was happy,some times you just have to sit back and take it easy= i think it has to do with getting older
Gents,
I would like to thank you for bringing up this topic. After significant investigation, including MythBusters calling this a myth, then in fact later retracting the "myth" and calling it truth, as you fella's state above, it is not a good idea to use the two hammers. Due to my ignorance, and luck I guess, I have in fact removed over 100 of these using the two hammer method, without a problem.
However, with that said, based on the data above and a lot of other research I have done, I will not be using, or recommending, the "two hammer" method from now on.
I have found a nice replacement tool for this:
At $37 you cannot beat the price(Snap-On Tool, Blue Point OEM). It is designed to be used with an impact gun, so it should make quick work of removing a tough stub axle. And hopefully I will not get myself hurt.
I will not officially recommend this tool until I have put some miles on it, but unless it is not strong enough, it should do the trick. I will keep you posted.
Regards,
LarryB
I would like to thank you for bringing up this topic. After significant investigation, including MythBusters calling this a myth, then in fact later retracting the "myth" and calling it truth, as you fella's state above, it is not a good idea to use the two hammers. Due to my ignorance, and luck I guess, I have in fact removed over 100 of these using the two hammer method, without a problem.
However, with that said, based on the data above and a lot of other research I have done, I will not be using, or recommending, the "two hammer" method from now on.
I have found a nice replacement tool for this:
At $37 you cannot beat the price(Snap-On Tool, Blue Point OEM). It is designed to be used with an impact gun, so it should make quick work of removing a tough stub axle. And hopefully I will not get myself hurt.
I will not officially recommend this tool until I have put some miles on it, but unless it is not strong enough, it should do the trick. I will keep you posted.
Regards,
LarryB
Last edited:
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Great..... I'm getting that clicking sound from my left rear wheel area... I thought it was due to the fact that I don't have the rotor's machine screws on, but even after torquing down the lug nuts real good, it still clicks. I really hope this isnt the case.
ROB HEEEEEELP! lol
ROB HEEEEEELP! lol
don't sweat it larry, it is a very common issue that most people believe everything they hear or see on t.v..... however i find that experience has a funny little way of making a believer out of all of us, many times i , read on here how bad the crank pulley bolts are on nsx's , all hondas are tight not just the nsx ,when i break them i use a breaker bar against the frame &have someone tap the key ,would i advice a novice to do this ? absolutely not , they have no idea how loud the bang will be,(plus i wouldn't do it on my $2k nsx flywheel) get the pulley holder and breaker bar and do it according to the manual , many times when techs are talking we take things for granted,like everbody wheres safety glasses or they have the correct tools and would not do anything risky, thats not always the case. I have learned alot about this car just from reading prime the last three years and your advice has been invaluable (i dont miss a larry b article) and iam sure i will be requesting it in the future .
Final word on the stuck stub axle. After splitting a hub pusher( forged picked up all 5 studs) I made a fixture for the press. With heat it let go around 25 tons. I have never seen one stuck like this on any car. After glass beading the stub and the flange it dropped together. Generous coating of never seize should allow this not to happen again. I changed the bearing as a precaution after that much force to be safe.
Oh Sh_t this post reminded me of the time Eddie Whitman put aircraft oil in his NSX. Any of you guys remember THAT one?!!
Larry, I'm starting to see the fine line of grease you mentioned but zero noise issue. Should I address this now or wait until theres noise? The car is not a DD. Maybe twice a week. Thanks:smile:Hi Ralph,
This a very common issue. It is very rare I do not perform this maintenance on an NSX when it is in for service. The issue is after some time, the grease breaks down and gets like melted ice cream
Regards,
LarryB
You don't want to wait til' there is noise otherwise the joint is toast as well. Change the boots out as maintenance.
Jeff
