Fender Bolts - Stripped Paint - Removed/Replaced??
- Thread starter tosugrad
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Nice eye but it takes more time to tape off the lamp than to take it out(about 1 minute). I think what you're seeing is wax.
Your car was rolled over, totaled out and then clipped.:biggrin:
Mine came painted with the car. When they wore out, at about 5-6 years of age(typical) I replaced them. This is something I have done for other NSX customers as well.
The replacements do not come painted. I paint them to look original.
You can't get the shock off the studs unless you cut the shock head apart. I did this once and in general don't do this. I prefer to replace and paint the new ones.
Most of the time when the shocks and the studs are replaced I believe people don't repaint them thus branding the car to sharp eye savvy car buyers as being in a baaad accident. :biggrin:
Any car with the ball studs not the color of the car, RUN away from. It is a rebuilt wreck. A whore!:biggrin:
What a great idea! Mine are ready for their 2nd replacement and I never thought about painting them. Thanks for the tip.
All untampered with NSX's I see all have painted ball studs. I know, because I specifically cut the lower section off of the strut with a dremel to avoid replacing the ball with a new unpainted part. It does not look factory original if the ball is not the color of the car and the paint has been chipped off.
My $.02
Regards,
LarryB
My $.02
Regards,
LarryB
I use the small cut-off disks. It is easy, just takes a little patience, and a few disks
. Ince I cut a good deep slot in the socket end I use a large screwdriver and give it a twist to crack the end of the strut piece.
Someone mentioned that you can get the clip out from the end without cutting it, but I have never been able to do it, probably I need a special hook tool I never got.
Regards,
LarryB
. Ince I cut a good deep slot in the socket end I use a large screwdriver and give it a twist to crack the end of the strut piece.Someone mentioned that you can get the clip out from the end without cutting it, but I have never been able to do it, probably I need a special hook tool I never got
.Regards,
LarryB
Here are a few more pics that led me to believe this car had some body/paint work in the rear.
Most all body shops could care less.... to them "it's close enough".
The NSX is entirely assembled by hand, and to ensure uniform body panel fitments and gaps, shims are required to make slight adjustments. Because of the NSX is built mostly of aluminum alloys, special bolts and nuts are used to prevent electrolysis. They have a special gray plating on the heads or a green coating on the threads. According to Honda, if other bolt/nuts are used they will loosen
It may be the angle of the pic.... but just below the end of the left tail light, the bumper isn't flush with the taillight lens as it should be. A missing tail light gasket there could possibly cause this... and cause water to leak into the trunk.
...or the left rear fender, when replaced, was not installed/repaired and/or shimmed properly... which then causes the left side of the rear bumper to protrude. This would likely result a larger than normal gap between the driver door and rear fender as well. If a panel is replaced slightly off... for the NSX, it will increasingly affects the other panels it meets.
Choritsu-shi =)
According to 91 service manual page 880 it indicates to use Shims to make the trunk lid flush with the body at the edge of the rear. :tongue:
ALso note on this page the support struts ball studs are not part of the body but the trunk strut itself so no biggy if its chrome as all replacement units are all chrome not body colored.
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Not the same thing. That is a striker shim to adjust the latch. There are NO shims on the body panels on this or ANY Honda or Acura. None on the bumpers, fenders, quarters valances, doors and so on.You thinking of Chevy or Ford.
If your car has shims to fit the fenders or quarters it is not suppose to.
It is a SERVICE manual not a BUILD manual.
When manufactured the nuts were installed on the car, painted, with the car and then the struts were snapped on later when the trunk was assembled.
The SERVICE manual simply shows that when you SERVICE them they are removed as a unit. They don't come apart once assembled.
When these are replaced Acura sells the strut and the nut with the ball separately. The nut with the ball (part#90102-SL0-003) does not come painted.
If you want them to look original then you paint them.
Once the strut is snapped it is locked on, permanently.
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mine has factory shims too.
Kent said they have shims to make the fenders line up? I don't think so.
Vary a bit means a tolerance of +/- 3mm on a control point which is common and the standard on most cars. I have measured many NSX's and it is incredible how tight the control points are.
Many have ZERO tolerance from spec. That is 0L, 0W, 0H , the exception being of course damaged cars. This car when it comes to structure tolerances this car is in the top of the class that only a small handful of cars, that I've seen and measued, belong.
If your body gaps are not so good and the panels aren't fitting right it's not because of hand fitting by the factory, it's something else.
Are you the original owner of your car? Can you show where these shims are? I'd love to see what you mean.
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Same question. Are you the original owner?
Where are these shims? Pics of where these shims are please?
I have repaired dozens of NSX's of every year and have seen scores of them inspecting for this type of thing. Never saw a fender, quarter or bumper shim or added washer under the bolt of a virgin car to make things fit placed by the folks in Tochigi.
Looking for shims under the headlamp retractors and fenders is one of the places to look to see if a car has a "history".
From the factory? PLEASE, show me. I want to learn.
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Vince: My recollection is you said or inferred there were NO SHIMS anywhere! (please excuse me if I'm misquoting-I'm getting old) While I have not seen fender or quarter shims, there are shims ALL OVER THE CAR. Humble out dude, I bought my car with 4K on it from a friend, it has NOT been wrecked. I have my rear bumper cover off right now. It has factory aluminum shim washers in the horizontal plane and a factory aluminum U-shim on the top aluminum rail. I had my headlights out this winter and they both had one U-shim. Sorry I'm not going to take pictures, if you had even one NSX apart we wouldn't be having this conversation. And the NSX body gaps, while quite acceptable by early 90's standards, are NOT in the league of a new KIA. Theres nothing wrong with shims!, this is low production hands on car. Honda certainly could have produced the car with fantastic body gaps, but it would have cost more than it was worth. OMI
Looked in the service manual I know its not build manual and I did not see any Shimes in the fenders quarters or bumpers, did see some in the hood, rear hatch and rear trunk, maybe there are misc shimes
Anyhow good learning stuff.
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there are shims under the trunk hinges, hood hinges and spoiler. they are u-type factory shims. i don't have any shims under the fenders etc. i took the entire car apart for paint and there were no signs of disassembly at those locations. take it for what it is.
Sorry I'm not going to take pictures, if you had even one NSX apart we wouldn't be having this conversation.
Now that is about the most ignorant comment I have seen in a long time.
"Vince" is actually Joe, who is the owner of "Vinces" Autobody. Vince was Joe's Dad, RIP, who started the business in 1948, before most of us were even born. So to even infer he has not seen an NSX in pieces, is just ridiculous. He has done as much NSX repair as just about anyone in the country.
Just because you guys seem to be differing about what is fact, let's not get insulting.
Disappointed,
LarryB
Now that is about the most ignorant comment I have seen in a long time.
"Vince" is actually Joe, who is the owner of "Vinces" Autobody. Vince was Joe's Dad, RIP, who started the business in 1948, before most of us were even born. So to even infer he has not seen an NSX in pieces, is just ridiculous. He has done as much NSX repair as just about anyone in the country.
Just because you guys seem to be differing about what is fact, let's not get insulting.
Disappointed,
LarryB
I too trust Joe's word and experience from the naysayers who have taken apart 1 nsx
The reason that this forum is great is because we HELP each other and a pic is worth 1000 words,so if it is not too much trouble post a pic of these"factory" shims so that Joe,who said he wants to be educated can be.His analysis of the pics could also teach us all something:wink:
The reason that this forum is great is because we HELP each other and a pic is worth 1000 words,so if it is not too much trouble post a pic of these"factory" shims so that Joe,who said he wants to be educated can be.His analysis of the pics could also teach us all something:wink:
I use the small cut-off disks. It is easy, just takes a little patience, and a few disks
Someone mentioned that you can get the clip out from the end without cutting it, but I have never been able to do it, probably I need a special hook tool I never got
Regards,
LarryB
Larry,
I used 2 cut off disks to cut through to the inner spring (on the first strut), and I was able to remove the inner spring partially using a dental pick, and the socket was easily separated from the ball stud without having to crack the bottom half of the strut. The ball stud remains painted with original paint. I'll work on the second strut next weekend. Thanks for your suggestion.
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