Exhaust bolts: pressed in?

[R13]

The studs connecting the cats to the tailpipe.

Mine are beyond repair and I had to cut off three of them to remove the tailpipe. The corrosion is so bad I can't really tell how they were originally put in.

Are they bolts that, in new condition, would just slide out the back? Or are they press-fit studs that I will pretty much have to drill out? If I need to drill, I want to start ASAP. If not, I will soak them in PB and hit them with a hammer tomorrow.

thanks!

 

[Briank]

They will back out with a punch and hammer just make sure you support the flange some how so you don't damage the cat from the impact.

 

[Chris NSX]

The catalytic converter bolts are press in studs almost like a wheel stud. You can used a punch and beat them out.

18176-P08-003 BOLT, CONVERTER
90212-SA5-003 NUT, SELF-LOCK (10MM)

or you can just drill the old studs and get some bolt and nuts from a hardware store, this would be the cheaper way.

 

[R13]

They will back out with a punch and hammer just make sure you support the flange some how so you don't damage the cat from the impact.

Cool, good to know.

I will see if I can rig up some type of brace, else resort to the drill so I don't break stuff.

Either way I will be replacing them with more standard-issue bolts/nuts and a good bit of anti-seize.

 

[DRIFTER]

I just tapped mine out and replaced them with stainless grade three bolts from the local hardware store. It worked great. I also put some anti-seize on the bolts to ease future removal.:smile:

 

[R13]

I just tapped mine out and replaced them with stainless grade three bolts from the local hardware store. It worked great. I also put some anti-seize on the bolts to ease future removal.:smile:

Yeah, I don't think there is going to be any "tapping mine out". I managed to wedge a 2x4 between the back of the flange and part of the rear beam enough that the blows were not moving the cats around. I using a long bolt as a drift and a 4lb hammer, I could not get anything to budge.

Looks like I need to pick up a TiN or cobalt bit and get to work...

 

[4AU4LIFE]

I also put some anti-seize on the bolts to ease future removal.:smile:

Excellent advice.

 

[JW]

I will be changing out my oem exhaust in a few months and I am now kind of wondering about what if I broke a stud and pending where it broke, would a person have better luck using a hammer drill, with the proper bit and strickly on hammer to pop it out versus trying to smack it out with a punch and a hammer of what ever weight? Hard hammering or vibration and hammering? What makes me ask this question is that I have worked on site where they serviced humongous drag lines and they used payloaders that had huge jackhammers to knock out 10" wide pins from the 90 yard buckets that they use. They used to use explosives to do this. My neighbours are great, but that might be a bit much. Just wondering if anyone has tried this?




91 NSX Red/Black
09 VW Jetta TDI White

 

[angus]

Explosives? Wow.

If it's the studs in the cat, I like to use an air hammer to knock them out.

 

[JW]

Explosives? Wow.

If it's the studs in the cat, I like to use an air hammer to knock them out.

Hi Angus.

I'm sure someone was injured or something damaged and this is what made them change their procedures. When you see these huge machines it starts to makes sense. This is the bucket and the second one is the machine and my 2 co-workers, the double cables that run the bucket are both 4" in diameter.





91 NSX Red/Black
09 VW Jetta TDI White

 

[R13]

Lol, right. Walking drag-line =! Exhaust flange on a sports car