Engine removal

Finally got the o rings for the oil girdle (I think thats what you call it)
picture7700.jpg

picture7701.jpg


Last view from below before its covered up
picture7699.jpg


48 ft lb
picture7704.jpg


Replace all three seals
Torque to 9 ft lb (used red lock tight)
picture7708.jpg


Windage tray installed
picture7709.jpg


Oil pick up in
picture7710.jpg


Oil pan gasket
picture7712.jpg


Baffled oil pan
picture7711.jpg

picture7716.jpg


I had a quick question about the oil pan gasket. I used factory torque spec (10 ft lb) and sequence and the gasket looked like this. Is this normal?

picture7714.jpg

picture7715.jpg


Everytime Ive installed an oil pan I never used a torque wrench or even sequence it according to the manual. Is this how its suppose to look when you do so?

ARP head studs installed
picture7717.jpg


Thanks
Tuan
 
When I changed my oil pan gasket awhile ago I remember reading that sometimes unless you have a VERY accurate torque wrench that 10lbs could turn into 15 or 20 even?

The way I did it was tighten until it bulged out just ever so slightly around the edge of the pan. For example, if you take your finger and put it at the seam of the oil pan and bottom, then you should just feel the gasket...

I'm sure the guru's will chime in.

Stephen
 
When I changed my oil pan gasket awhile ago I remember reading that sometimes unless you have a VERY accurate torque wrench that 10lbs could turn into 15 or 20 even?

The way I did it was tighten until it bulged out just ever so slightly around the edge of the pan. For example, if you take your finger and put it at the seam of the oil pan and bottom, then you should just feel the gasket...

I'm sure the guru's will chime in.

Stephen

Yeah, I think im going to do that. Maybe Ill just torque it to 6 ftlb it seems like it never wants to go to 10 ftlb it keeps spinning and spinning because the gasket gives.
 
Yeah, I think im going to do that. Maybe Ill just torque it to 6 ftlb it seems like it never wants to go to 10 ftlb it keeps spinning and spinning because the gasket gives.

Forget the torque wrench for this. Do as Steve suggested, just tighten until the gasket just gets to the edge of the pan and you will be fine. Unfortunately you may need a replace the one that is squished:(.

The is one area (and only one) where the torque wrench is an issue:).

Regards,
LarryB
 
Forget the torque wrench for this. Do as Steve suggested, just tighten until the gasket just gets to the edge of the pan and you will be fine. Unfortunately you may need a replace the one that is squished:(.

The is one area (and only one) where the torque wrench is an issue:).

Regards,
LarryB


thanks for the input larry. Dang the one and only time that I torque it to spec and used the proper sequence it doesnt help... haha
 
Another trick about this gasket which someone told me is if you do happen to buy a new one and it's all twisted up and doesn't seat correctly then lay it out overnight with a heavy book on top of it. It'll help get the twists out.

May be un-needed but just thought I'd share.

Stephen
 
My local NAPA guy has these with a cardboard back as the package, nice and flat(1991 legend oil pan gasket:)).

However when I get them from Honda they are always twisted. I use the book trick regularely.

Regards,
LarryB

Another trick about this gasket which someone told me is if you do happen to buy a new one and it's all twisted up and doesn't seat correctly then lay it out overnight with a heavy book on top of it. It'll help get the twists out.

May be un-needed but just thought I'd share.

Stephen
 
Yeah, I think im going to do that. Maybe Ill just torque it to 6 ftlb it seems like it never wants to go to 10 ftlb it keeps spinning and spinning because the gasket gives.

When I did mine, I went with 6 ftlb (10 Nm) as I felt that 10 ftlb (14 Nm) - as the manual states - is pretty strong and a little bit too much for my taste. 6 ftlb will be well enough. You won't loose the oil pan while driving. :)
 
Thanks for the reply. What are you getting done to the head? Where did you gets those itb man those are so awsome?


The head is getting port and polished, 1mm over intake valves, new intake/exhaust valves, bronze valve guides, fixing that one cam journal, Ti retainers, dual valve springs, new valve seals. He also suggested that I increase the compression to 12:1 since ill be running e85. So the head will be slightly decked.
 
The head is getting port and polished, 1mm over intake valves, new intake/exhaust valves, bronze valve guides, fixing that one cam journal, Ti retainers, dual valve springs, new valve seals. He also suggested that I increase the compression to 12:1 since ill be running e85. So the head will be slightly decked.

I was hoping you would do this. This is a lot of work and E85 is your friend. You will not be dissappointed!!!! You can run aggressive ignition timing with your high compression and hopefully crack 300 whp.

Good luck
 
ITBs came in today. Now Its just the head and header/exhaust im waiting on and some stuff from sos.

picture7723.jpg

picture7729.jpg

picture7730.jpg

Wow . All you need now is a box over those ITB's to get the boost in...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top