Engine removal

[gsrboy]

Got the pistons/rods out checked the rod bearings and they all look fine. It must be the main bearings. Took the oil pump apart and it looked just fine. I wonder if it was cause by oil deficiency or debris that got into the oil. I will pull the main bearings tomorrow with pics.

 

[goldNSX]

No good... 1 cam journal has been eaten up by crap in the motor. I took off the oil pan and saw bronze shaving... bearing....

Very interested in the result as I've seen this once too. Keep us informed.

 

[FXMDBilly]

Awesome job!

PMed.

(We use/sell RPS clutches and CP pistons in our race motors).

 

[lightguy]

I am going to do upgraded valve springs/TI retainers and probably keep stock valves? I want about 650-750whp so if the head can make it easy then I wont do port n polish.

IMO head work wont be needed on a turbo set up. If all else fails bump the PSI .5.

For turbo I am going to just piece things together.

Run after market header with flex section with the STMPO/AFI y pipe and a BW s366 turbo.

Contact Wil / Angus on his turbo kit. He has it pretty much figured out for DIY types. NO to flex pipes. especially pressurised turbo exhaust systems.

Transmission I am still debating on JDM short gear or keep my stock one.

Dude; you will have 650-750 HP. Does it matter how fast the smoking tires are rotating ?
600HP and ??? torque, is the "accepted" limits on the stock tranny.

Hats off for diving in. !!!!

 

[lightguy]

On the bearing wear; possibly an oil starvation problem.
Do the SOS oil pan baffle minimum.
Possibly an Accusump which is nice for a Turbo system in so many ways.

 

[drew]

How did you clean the transmission?

Were you on jack stands when dropping the engine?

Nice work. Rare to see this, at least out on the west coast. You were scaring me with your questions... However, you are on top of things!

Hope the crank works out for you, very expensive if it does not.


Drew

 

[FXMDBilly]

NO to flex pipes. especially pressurised turbo exhaust systems.

We use flex joints on our FX750 racecar and our street cars.

Dude; you will have 650-750 HP. Does it matter how fast the smoking tires are rotating ?
600HP and ??? torque, is the "accepted" limits on the stock tranny

Yes it does matter, the gearing of the US gearset is only good for highway pulls IMO. The US gearset has a shorter 3-4 and 4-5 split, while the JDM set has the same RPM drop down and split from 1st all the way to 5th. It's proper, and I like it a lot better. We run more power than that and I still like the spread of the JDM gear ratios (which are proper by the way).

With a turbo, you don't have to rev the car out, especially with the added mid-range and torque -which makes the US 2nd gear not as bad, but I stll like the JDM gearset better.


Billy

 

[gsrboy]

IMO head work wont be needed on a turbo set up. If all else fails bump the PSI .5.



Contact Wil / Angus on his turbo kit. He has it pretty much figured out for DIY types. NO to flex pipes. especially pressurised turbo exhaust systems.



Dude; you will have 650-750 HP. Does it matter how fast the smoking tires are rotating ?
600HP and ??? torque, is the "accepted" limits on the stock tranny.

Hats off for diving in. !!!!

I completely agree with you. I was thinking the exact same thing with the gears. I was just get the gears deburred and wpc. But I was reading about the JDM gears look like its worth it. When shifting it drops way too low with usdm gears...

Thanks for letting me know about the head. I was wondering the limits of stock head. I guess I will just clean it up and get new valve seals just incase.

 

[gsrboy]

On the bearing wear; possibly an oil starvation problem.
Do the SOS oil pan baffle minimum.
Possibly an Accusump which is nice for a Turbo system in so many ways.

Thats the plan to get the baffled oil pan. Im suprise its not baffled like the other B or even D series motors...

 

[gsrboy]

How did you clean the transmission?

Were you on jack stands when dropping the engine?

Nice work. Rare to see this, at least out on the west coast. You were scaring me with your questions... However, you are on top of things!

Hope the crank works out for you, very expensive if it does not.


Drew

I was not on jack stands I was just using 2 hydro jacks the big ones. 2 of the same one that I used to support the motor on the engine stand when I broke loose the crank pulley bolt.

I first used simple green and a sponge to clean the motor than I used the fine steel brush which clean it up really good. Ive done the same for a few motors in the past and it works well and allow for easy cleaning later on.

Took the crank out today, figured out the problem will post pics now..

 

[gsrboy]

Shavings...

See how it doesnt sit flush with the main journals? Warped... oil starvation? The thrust washers looked damaged too...
#3 main bearing...

Looks like heat damage? The crank doesnt feel bad at all. I thought it would be much worst. I am pretty sure the machine shop will be able to clean it up just fine.

What a mess...

 

[FXMDBilly]

Take a look at our Darton Sleeving services:

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129267


Billy

 

[passline]

"Nice thread!" I am enjoying the postings and the challenges being met along the way. :biggrin:

 

[ralph cerbone]

i love this ,my hats off to you ,i ve been doing this for a lonnnnng time and i cant believe how cool your are tackling this job , your part of a new regime and rightfully so , keep it up!!!

 

[drew]

Did all the other bearings line up with the journal?

I've never broken down an NSX engine, but I will install the bearings offset a few degrees when I was doing 60's Fords. I'm pretty sure it was called for by the book (but it has been a long time now, it seemed to make sense to offset the joints).

Again, I'm with Ralph, your fortitude and abilities is impressive.

 

[gsrboy]

Thanks alot guys I love doing stuff like this and it keeps me busy which is always good. I have been cleaning up the block now and with all the edges its a pain in the ass.

The bearing is basically warped. Compare to all the other main bearings it sits flushed with the block.

Notice the bearing lower is much cleaner/ flushed with the block compare to the one up top.

 

[gsrboy]

Almost done wiping down

Done wiping it down

Polished it

Motor cleaned and ready to be shipped out.

Plan for tomorrow is to gut the butterfly plate.

 

[gsrboy]

+

= GONE

 

[vancouver]

Awesome job! I am enjoying this thread :smile:

 

[lightguy]

Plan for tomorrow is to gut the butterfly plate.

Some say just remove it.
Removal also cuts down on volume of air to be compressed which theoretically reduces lag.
If the car ever goes back to stock you'll need it again.

 

[gsrboy]

Some say just remove it.
Removal also cuts down on volume of air to be compressed which theoretically reduces lag.
If the car ever goes back to stock you'll need it again.

Yeah, but I dont plan on returning it back to stock. If I am doing a full build I see any point putting it back to NA. I can see if I kept it stock motor + boost then I might end up putting it back to stock.

 

[gsrboy]

Talk to endyne since I will have them do the head work. With the price of having them do the head work already, they will be able to fix the cam cap/journal for free. =)

 

[goldNSX]

Shavings...

What metals would be high in an oil anaylsis sample if you observe this?

 

[gsrboy]

What metals would be high in an oil anaylsis sample if you observe this?

Im not completely sure. I would think some copper but the bearings are made of different metals.

When taking the rod bearings out I notice the oil holes are extremely small. When getting new bearings I was thinking about having the machine shop chamfer the holes, make them slightly bigger. This will decrease the oil pressure, however I was thinking about porting my oil pump myself and maybe put a shim in the pressure spring to increase the oil pressure a bit. Have anyone ever done this to an nsx oil pump? Ive done it to my d16z6 (single cam) which theyre notorious for oil starvation and it worked well. It is a cheap DIY mod and will increase flow as well as pressure if done right.

 

[myhui]

Consider individual throttle bodies, if you want to stay N.A.

http://revo-tune.jp/catalogue/detail.php?id=148

http://revo-tune.jp/catalogue/detail.php?id=159

Japan's Option magazine did a feature on this company's work in their 2009 August issue, p. 30 - 32. They don't make those parts, but they do the "system integration".