Engine keeps cranking but it won't start

[C30A4]

Hi everyone,

I was doing routine battery check up, just now. Then I carelessly connecting my battery with the wrong polarity... But soon I realised something looks unusual and I quickly pull off the cable and reconnect the battery with the right polarity before I switch on anything.

However, after I have installed my battery back properly, I intend to ignite my engine to make sure that everything is running well and properly. BUT!! My engine just won't start! At acc before turning "ON", everything on my cluster panel are fine. Lights comes on, everything are as normal (except my air con and my power seat. Both of them are not working as well.). But when I switching to "ON", I can only heard the engine is cranking but it just won't start. I have tried to turn my key off and attempt to restart my engine for many times... and no matter how long I try to crank my engine... it just won't start. I did also check with the fuse #9 at the main fuse box... But it looks fine.

So guys, what do you think for causing my engine fail to start? Will it be the fuel pump delay problem? Oh yeah, I also did check for error code (even the instrumental panel does not appear to have error), however, it appears to be TCS error code 3-4... I really don't understand how does the TCS related with my engine starting failure... Do you think they are related?

Please help me! Your input is greatly appreciated! Thank you very much.

 

[mrbone]

check all fuses in both fuse boxes.

 

[D'Ecosse]

Possibly fuse # 13 in engine bay box for main relay & ignition coils is what is preventing engine start
Fuse # 18 , #19 & # 20 in same panel are for seats & # 21 for A/C compressor clutch

Also check #2 in under-dash panel

You will really need to check ALL your fuses as suggested by mrbone - who knows what all has blown.

 

[Briank]

Fuse #9 120A is the one that goes when you connect the battery backwards. :wink: This has been confirmed by C30A4 via PM.

 

[D'Ecosse]

Fuse #9 120A is the one that goes when you connect the battery backwards. :wink: This has been confirmed by C30A4 via PM.

That would have been my suggestion but he rufuted that - however, as I re-read his suggestion saying it "looks fine" isn't really adequate.
It needs to be be tested to see if it really is capable of passing current.

 

[Briank]

Caesar was PM'ing you to

 

[C30A4]

That would have been my suggestion but he rufuted that - however, as I re-read his suggestion saying it "looks fine" isn't really adequate.
It needs to be be tested to see if it really is capable of passing current.

Oops... this is actually my mistake, again :tongue: I was posting this before I realised what Brian has told me to check fuse #9 was actually the ACG 120A fuse, instead of it was TCS 15A. :redface:

Then, when I found out that actually my fuse #9 is blown, it was after midnight here in where I live. That's why I feel lazy & sleepy to post another message saying that I have found out where the problem is...

Really... I feel sorry about this to you and Mr. Bone. I should have inform you guys earlier :smile: BUt however, both of you guys and Brian will have all of my gratitude. Your advises, comment and suggestion are all as valuable to me.

Here, I would like to sincerely thanking you all for sharing your most valuable piece of info/input or knowledge with me. NSXPRIME BanZai BanZai !!

Cheers!

 

[D'Ecosse]

Just glad it worked out!

 

[JDMHONDA]

Man this is SOOOO funny.

I tried the banding on the main replay and poof i know hear the fuel pump and my baby starts up EVERY time.

Wonder why it does that.

 

[rbirling]

Man this is SOOOO funny.

I tried the banding on the main replay and poof i know hear the fuel pump and my baby starts up EVERY time.

Wonder why it does that.

Because it has a bad solder joint that you jarred into making decent contact for a while. With more time with heat and vibration, it will most likely fail again. At least you know how to "fix" it. :smile:

 

[JDMHONDA]

Because it has a bad solder joint that you jarred into making decent contact for a while. With more time with heat and vibration, it will most likely fail again. At least you know how to "fix" it. :smile:

I took it apart and saw that two of the solder joints had cracks in it. I re-did all the joints, and put the relay back together.

Before every other time it would fail, and would have to hit it to make it work. Now after redoing them all, it has yet to fail.

I will keep the new one for my back-up.
Thanks guys.

 

[Jin1976]

Good for you man. One question. Have you install the R swaybar yet?

 

[C30A4]

Sorry for the very late reply, Jin Haven't come back to this site for months!

Yeah, I have it installed and it really improves the handling! I feel more confident in taking any cornering now