Eight Hours to install Eibachs?

Originally posted by nsxtasy:
A dealer that has never done this before may be ultraconservative in providing a cost estimate if they are inexperienced at performing this particular service. I don't consider that ripping you off (unless it turns out that it actually takes two hours and they still charge you for six). (However, this is why I try not to have my NSX worked on by places that lack sufficient experience.)

Given the information at hand, I'll stick to my guns on this. Even a half-assed wrench who's ever seen the car before could guess closer than that. They are an Acura dealer. They have the service estimate book. They have the service manual. They have detailed diagrams. They are supposed to have brains enough to use above resources. At the very least they are stupid for not taking time to research it and come back with a quote that didn't scare the customer away or make them look dishonest. We'll never know what the final bill would have been, but I'd be surprised if after accepting their quote it would have come in at 1/3 that amount.

BTW, I don’t single out auto dealers or garages for my rants. I’m equally critical about all forms of business when they’re run by idiots.
 
Originally posted by CDube:
I paid $xxx for the installation and it took a little over 2 hours.
That sounds about right. IIRC my (local Acura) dealer took about 4 hours of labor to SWAP springs between 2 NSXs -- moving mods from 1 car to another.
 
It's really not that bad of a procedure. Take a look at:
http://www.nsxhelp.com/diy2/susp/index.htm

Overall, removing and installing the shock/spring assembly in the NSX *can* be a daunting task if you're not "in the know". There are some "tricks" that can make life a little easier when attempting this task. I'll mark my special methods with "SECRET"! (Though, it's not really a secret but not listed in the tech manual.) The tech manual really does oversimplify the shock/spring removal/install. You do complete the tasks stated in the tech manual, but there are a couple of steps required to actually get those shocks/springs assemblies in and out.

As far as tools are concerned, I'd have a metric socket set, extensions/adapters, ratchet, breaker bar, and a rather long/big pry bar. Having air tools also makes the tasks easier, but they are not necessarily required. SPRING COMPRESSORS - a set of two is what's really required. If you're simply removing the shock/spring assembly up front, you can do it without compressors. However, if you're removing the spring from the shock (front or rear), for safety's sake, DO use spring compressors. On the rear assembly, I use one compressor on the spring to help with removal and installation. They may not be necessary to remove the shock assembly in the rear, but I've always used them on the rear. Again, DO USE THEM if you're removing the spring from the shock! (Front and Rear).

<img src=http://www.nsxhelp.com/diy2/susp/index.3.jpg>

Note also that is is VERY helpful to have another person to help - ESPECIALLY for the rear shocks/springs!!!


FRONT SHOCKS:
- Jack, jack stands, remove wheels, and raise front hood. (Remove 6 total shock mounting nut covers/caps with screwdriver.)

- ***SECRET*** You DO NOT have to remove the front sway bar!

- Remove brake line bolt from brake hose bracket.


- Remove hose bracket bolt from hose bracket (Remove nut from bolt and remove bolt. Now you can
move the bracket up and down the shock. ***SECRET*** Slide it up high to get it out of the way -
DO NOT need to remove the bracket).




- I remove the top three bolts now. (DO NOT remove the "center" nut on the top of the shock
assembly!)


- Remove nut from the mounting bolt at the bottom of the shock.



It may help to unsnap the plastic mesh covering over the top shock mounts.


- Hammer out the bolt from the bottom of the shock assembly with a punch/screwdriver and a
hammer.


- ***SECRET*** In order to slide the shock bottom out of its mounting position easily, you'll
have to remove a couple of 10mm bolts that hold the "speed sensor" located behind the front wheel
hub. (Stick your head behind the brake rotor and you'll see a rather small "bracket" with a wire
coming out of it near the bottom of the shock assembly. If I remember correctly, you can remove
that bracket from the hub assembly by removing two bolts. Move that bracket aside, and it will
not get in the way of the shock when you remove the bottom of the shock.)


- ***SECRET*** Position yourself in the wheel well with your chest resting on top of the brake
rotor. Use a towel if you do not have a lot of padding like me :>).
- Grab the shock with both hands and but upward pressure on the shock with your hands so that the
top three "studs" are completely protruding through their holes.
- Press down using your weight on the brake rotor. (This action will move the brakes/suspension
downward and allow you to move the shock bottom toward your body.)
- After you press down on the brake assembly/suspension, pull the shock towards your body and
then towards the rear of the NSX.

<img src=http://www.nsxhelp.com/diy2/susp/index.10.jpg>

- You'll be able then to "drop" the bottom shock down past its original mounting position since
it is out of the way of the aluminum suspension pieces.
- Drop the assembly as low as you can then rotate the top towards you and lift the assembly out
of the wheel well.
- INSTALL ***SECRET*** to put the bolt back into the brake hose bracket, you have to align the
bracket and bolt with the "dent" in the shock. The bolt will not go into the bracket without BOTH
being aligned! Use a piece of tape to keep it aligned until you install the bolt.

That's it for the front assembly! If you need to remove the spring, install a spring compressor
and remove the top nut on the shock.

<img src=http://www.nsxhelp.com/diy2/susp/index.11.jpg>

Work SLOWLY and keep track of ALL parts in the assembly!

<img src=http://www.nsxhelp.com/diy2/susp/index.17.jpg>

Reassembly of the front shock is the same as the removal! Remember to press down on the bake
rotor in order to get more "room" to get that bottom end into its mounting position. If your
chest does not work, another person can apply pressure on the rotor with a foot. Also, if you
have a good pry bar, you can place it in several parts in order to get that "brake/suspension"
down low enough to get that bottom part of the shock in!

REAR ASSEMBLY:
- Lift engine cover/glass.
- Remove rear hatch glass garnish/air intake (seven phillips screws. Get to the rear screws with
the trunk open)
- Remove strut bar if you think it will get in the way. I normally do not remove the strut bar.
- At this time, you cam place a single spring compressor to the spring. Compress until the spring
exerts NO pressure on the shock assembly. This will help when you need to pry the shock up for
removal.
- Remove top three shock assembly nuts.
- Remove nut from stablaizer link on bottom of shock (this serves like the bolt on the bottom of
the front shocks. However, the stabalizer link also attaches the rear sway bar to the knuckle.)
- Remove the nut from the other end of the link - this nut is on the sway bar. (You'll need a box
wrench and allen wrench to get this nut off. push out link from the sway bar hole.) (***SECRET***
It does help to TOTALLY remove the sway bar if you'd like.)
- Hammer out the link from the bottom of the shock assembly with a punch/screwdriver and hammer.
At this point youcan remove the stabalizer link.
- ***SECRET*** The shock is ready to get out now. You can't really push on the brake roton with
your chest - there' too much pressure. You can do two things - use a pry bar in the right place
OR (more effective) have someone stand on top of the rear brake rotor! By having someone stand on
the rotor, the suspension is pressed down and gives you more room to move the shock.
- ***SECRET*** You WILL need to have a long, rather narrow pry bar. Once the brake
rotor/suspension is being pressed down (stood on), you'll have to pry up from the bottom of the
shock to get the bottom out of its mounting position. BE AWARE OF THE OUTSIDE CV BOOT AND THE
UPPER KNUCKLE RUBBER BOOT!!! DO NOT PRY AGAINST THESE!
- ***SECRET*** There are two stages to prying the shock out (while the suspension is being stood
on). 1. Pry the bottom of the shock up so that you can push the bottom out of position towards
the CV boot. It will look like the bottom is right on the boot. 2. Pry again up to move the shock
towards the rear of the NSX - off the CV boot. From there, you can maneuver the shock around the
"mounting ears" on the suspension.
- At this point, you should be able to get the shock out.

***SECRET*** Remember that the secret is to get the suspension pieces holding the bottom of the
shock DOWN so you can move the shock around that mounting position. You MUST have some method of
getting that suspension down!!!
- Installation is the same in reverse.

HINT: For installation, pry the shock up in stages - just like removal. You'll never be able to
do it in one sweep. Also have someone step on the brake rotor for installation.

HINT: It helps to spray "WD-40" on the mounting surfaces of the bottom of the shock. It can
gum-up there.

I have removed/installed a rear shock by myself, but it is hard to do and requires quite a bit of
effort.

<img src=http://www.nsxhelp.com/diy2/susp/index.15.jpg>
 
Originally posted by Andrie Hartanto:

Where in bay area do they charge that much to install the kit on the NSX. Don at Hilltop Auto service charges $200 to do them. And $80 for alignment.

Andrie,

Don quoted me $320.00 for the Tein Coilover installation + alignment. I guess you get special pricing from Don
smile.gif


Steve's shop in Santa Clara (FA) quoted me $640.00 for installation + alignment + corner balancing. Kind of pricy!

BTW: How is Mao's (George) project car doing?
 
Originally posted by 2slow2speed:
Andrie,

Don quoted me $320.00 for the Tein Coilover installation + alignment. I guess you get special pricing from Don
smile.gif


Steve's shop in Santa Clara (FA) quoted me $640.00 for installation + alignment + corner balancing. Kind of pricy!

BTW: How is Mao's (George) project car doing?

Oakland's Tires and Muffler Depot (AutoMax of Bay Area) charged me $200 for the installation of 4 konis including the aligment. I think the job took him much longer than expected. Originally estimate time is 1 hour but came out to be 3 hours just for the installation. They still owe me the aligment which I will bring them back tomorrow.

The shop owner told me the job was difficult.
 
crown acura in clearwater, FL charges 6 hrs to put springs in,and nsx club members get it for $70 an hour plus $105- for an allignment

[This message has been edited by smoore (edited 14 February 2002).]
 
Originally posted by 2slow2speed:
Andrie,

Don quoted me $320.00 for the Tein Coilover installation + alignment. I guess you get special pricing from Don
smile.gif


Steve's shop in Santa Clara (FA) quoted me $640.00 for installation + alignment + corner balancing. Kind of pricy!

BTW: How is Mao's (George) project car doing?

My mistake. I talked to Don and the price I got was for Koni and H&R. I asked Don why does he charge more for coilover? Isn't it easier to install especially Tein since it is already assembled? He said, after George experience (Asking him to get it up and down several times), he knows he will need to spend a lot of time to get the customer happy.
smile.gif
Thus he included extra $40 for those time. Which I think it still not bad since it is include alignment.

But you are right in saying service in the bay area is kinda high. It is because our cost of living generally are high.

I was there today and George car is done. Gotta admit, look pretty sweet.



[This message has been edited by Andrie Hartanto (edited 14 February 2002).]
 
NSXTC, and everyone else -

Thanks a million for your advice and detailed instructions. I will perform the surgery this Saturday, and I can't wait to get started. My springs arrived from Dali, (Thanks Mark, for a great price)and I just went out and bought a compressor and impact wrench just for the occasion. I know I don't have to use one, but give me an excuse to buy a new tool and I'll use it. Several times over.

I've already told my wife to beef up for the event -- she has assumed the distinguished title of bon-bon eater/rotor stander. In reality, it sounds like it will take my brother. I'll let you know how things go.
 
I've already told my wife to beef up for the event -- she has assumed the distinguished title of bon-bon eater/rotor stander. In reality, it sounds like it will take my brother.

That depends on how many bon-bons she eats.
biggrin.gif
 
Back
Top