Don't Pull Your Joints!!! Ball that is! - Pics included.

[titaniumdave]

Do I have to remove the axle from the Hub ??

Only if you are doing an axle overhaul. Then make sure to take the nut off the axle before you pull the axle from the transmission.

I finally got the really stuck ball joint apart. I heated the knuckle enough to get the steel insert out, then I could use a regular gear puller, and more heat to break those two pieces apart.

Once I had the insert separate, I heated the knuckle again, pressed the insert back in. I lost the ball joint on the upper A-arm, but saved the knuckle.

I hope to have replacements for both the rear ball joints soon. Also working on an extended lower ball joint to help with roll center on lowered cars.

ffffanman, are you interested in donating your messed up suspension parts
to the R&D cause? I will pay shipping.:wink: Would be good to have some spares to get it right...

 

[davidf]

How about tie rod ends? I noticed the rubber that keeps the grease in is completely split, although the ends are tight. I want to replace the ends but don't want to break the spindle. Anyone here seperated tie rods from the spindle safely?

 

[Larry Bastanza]

All the time, using the proper puller, if you will reuse the Tie Rod End, or a pickle fork if you are replacing them, since the fork will destroy them.

HTH,
LarryB

 

[1TITENSX]

Has anyone seen this thread? Looks like 'I Grok NSX' was able to remove his upper A arms w/o damaging the stud portion of the ball joints.

 

[ffffanman]

My parts are your parts are nsxprime's parts.
Please email me all the details to ship my two parts to you.
I will package them as tight as possible in a strong cardboard box.
Please indicate your address and courier and ground account.
I will write on the box and packing slips that these parts are core or warrenty return so that customs doesn't get too involved.
Trev:8128 McIntyre Road, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, T6E-5C4.
trev @ etpl.ca

 

[titaniumdave]

Has anyone seen this thread? Looks like 'I Grok NSX' was able to remove his upper A arms w/o damaging the stud portion of the ball joints.

Most of the time you can get the ball joints out, sometimes things just don't work as smoothly as mother Honda planned This thread is about those times...

I think the take away should be to only break the ball joints loose when you need to, replacing suspension parts or ball joint boots. The other thought is if you have the tapered section of the ball joint removed, spent the extra $12 and replace the boot and re-pack the ball joint with grease as preventative maintainence. Hopefully we will have a long term solution for replacing ball joints with out replacing complete suspension parts soon, right now we are stuck with needing to replace entire A-arms or knuckles and who knows how long Honda will have stock??? So keep your balls cleaned, lubed and well booted! Basic hygiene!:wink:

Trev, e-mail sent, thanks!

 

[Tanto2]

I bought the Honda pullers like Larry says, I can't help wondering if everyone knows how to use pullers. You load up the puller until the forks just start to bend, then you tap (or smack if necessary) the stud (with the nut put on flush with the end of the stud.) If that doesn't brake loose, I have another trick I've used on other joints. Take an air powered muffler tool with your most blunt bit. Hold a 1/4" steel flat bar on the stud nut(for protection)and then let the air bit do the smacking. Obviously be very careful and perhaps have a friend help.

 

[KooLaid]

So it's this risky trying to get my arms off to thom huh? :frown:

 

[davidf]

All the time, using the proper puller, if you will reuse the Tie Rod End, or a pickle fork if you are replacing them, since the fork will destroy them.

HTH,
LarryB

That sucks, now I have to buy a puller and ditch my fork.:frown:

 

[titaniumdave]

That sucks, now I have to buy a puller and ditch my fork.:frown:

Save the fork for working on your truck! You might be able to break the tie rods loose with a regular bearing puller, there is some clearance above it unlike the other ball joints!

 

[Tanto2]

FWIW I had a couple of pullers (in this case they are actually "spreaders"), they almost worked but not quite. I felt I had to pay the bucks for the honda tools. BTW it might be time to buy some of those honda tools before they stop making them, if they haven't already. When I did my gears, there was one part that I had to borrow from the dealer, and of course thats not really a very good practice.

 

[Synthesis]

anybody know where you can buy an adjustable ball joint separator, like the one called out in the service manual for the LCA? i borrowed the tool from work to replace the torn boot on mine, but i'd like to have one.
last i checked it was EXPENSIVE.... any cheaper alternatives?
the only ones i've seen aren't adjustable and too small for the LCA.

 

[cagedrex]

i have just done my clutch and axel and had to replace one of the lower ball joints .the dealer said they weren't available and had to buy the whole assembly ,i didn't like that and managed to find one that worked,took a couple hours at the local parts store but i managed

 

[troca]

And the brand and part number for the ball joint that worked is................?

 

[titaniumdave]

And the brand and part number for the ball joint that worked is................?

Honda # 07MAC-SL00200

 

[Larry Bastanza]

Honda # 07MAC-SL00200

Just to clarify, the part number above is for the TOOL, not a ball joint.

 

[ffffanman]

Larry, Sometimes I wonder about Dave, then I meet him..........and I still wonder! lol
Trev

 

[Maximumyield]

Honda # 07MAC-SL00200

Isnt that part # for Acura Legends? , If I read correctly the tool for the NSX is part number 07MAC-SL00100
Please correct me if I am wrong.

Also I found a old post I read somewhere on the rear lower balljoint replacement part number, dont quote me on this do your homework first but this is the info I had saved, mabe it can help someone, like Titanium dave.

Post I read:

anyone interested in changing the rear lower ball joint the
part # for moog is k9643.
beck arnley the part# is 101-4102
SPICER Part#5051162{Professional Grade}

these are the models listed not sure if its correct foresure or any help to anyone but I did indeed read this on prime I believe a year ago or so. Maybe the guy Trev talked to and couldnt remember?

I believe these cars use this part number# also did read it maybe a millimeter or two shorter then the NSX threads but works fine.

ACURA CL (1997 - 2003)
ACURA CL S (2001 - 2003)
ACURA TL (1999 - 2003)
ACURA TL S (2002 - 2003)
HONDA ACCORD 10TH ANNIVERSARY 1993
HONDA ACCORD 25TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION 1996
HONDA ACCORD DX (1990 - 2002)
HONDA ACCORD EX (1990 - 2002)
HONDA ACCORD EX-R (1991 - 1997)



Maximumyield

 

[SMGNSX]

I would like any old Knuckles (up rights) you may have, please contact me if you have any old ones.

Thanks, Steve

 

[SMGNSX]

Only if you are doing an axle overhaul. Then make sure to take the nut off the axle before you pull the axle from the transmission.

I finally got the really stuck ball joint apart. I heated the knuckle enough to get the steel insert out, then I could use a regular gear puller, and more heat to break those two pieces apart.

Once I had the insert separate, I heated the knuckle again, pressed the insert back in. I lost the ball joint on the upper A-arm, but saved the knuckle.

I hope to have replacements for both the rear ball joints soon. Also working on an extended lower ball joint to help with roll center on lowered cars.

ffffanman, are you interested in donating your messed up suspension parts
to the R&D cause? I will pay shipping.:wink: Would be good to have some spares to get it right...

Dave,
I have it right and have all the bugs worked out and have new ball joints for everything.

Steve