DIY Window Switch AUTO-UP function
- Thread starter Hugabuga
- Start date
Kids getting decapitated by windows that go up "automatically". I know.. silly...
Same here. I love the 530T. I've ran them on my DDs and on one of my cars it's been going strong for 7yrs on the original install. This is also resistance sensing in that if something is stuck in the window it will stop rolling up (i.e. toddler's head!) It has a bunch of other adjustable features too but you need a decently robust alarm system to fully operate it.
I still absolutely love Hugo's DIY. It's just so simple!!! Hugo, you are the man!
p.s. I'll ship your package after Superbowl weekend amigo!
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Stevenlee: no, the OEM auto up feature is not resistance sensing (or the window would never reach up with all the drag there is from dirt tracks, dried grease, OEM plastic "pulley" and so on...)
It is an early 1990's, 20years old feature that can harm child little fingers or even decapitate them, it will only stop powering the motor when this one stops to turn, that is probably why it has been disabled for the USA yes
Use it "at your own risk" then
It is an early 1990's, 20years old feature that can harm child little fingers or even decapitate them, it will only stop powering the motor when this one stops to turn, that is probably why it has been disabled for the USA yes
Use it "at your own risk" then
Just performed the shunt modification on my '03 - wire colors a little different (yellow vs. Black/yellow), but the same pin location shown. Took only about 30 min, with most of the time spent referencing shop manual to locate screw locations to take the door panel off. Works great - now there is no more holding window switch while trying to shift coming out of the tolls!
This is an amazing mod, and we are indebted to Hugabuga for the benefits he has provided the NSX community! I am so glad we have a dedicated community that continue to keep our cars in shape, as well as improve them.
But for those us on the lazy side, how or where can we source a new Honda NSX switch in the US?!?
But for those us on the lazy side, how or where can we source a new Honda NSX switch in the US?!?
The shunt modification is not only easy but the end result feels very intuitive...I highly recommend it. Just as it makes sense to push once to go down, (and stop where you want) it also makes sense to push once for it to go up (and stop where you want), or let it go all the way.
It really is easy and takes 30-45 minutes...once the door panel is off, that's it for disassembly, you access the pigtail and perform the wire shunt right there on the back of the door panel and you're done. The beauty of it is that it's easily reversible...how can you beat that?
I could also argue all day as to how it makes driving seem ever so slightly safer in terms of it allowing you to get your hands back on the wheel instantly...regardless of losing a child safety-like feature. Besides, when is a child going to be poking their head out of a 2-seater driver's side window anyway?
I just went to the bank to do a night drop off...auto down...drop the evelope...auto up...and right away hands on the steering wheel to navigate the squirrely path through the bank teller lane!
THANKS HUGO!
p.s. ready for those teflon rail guides
It really is easy and takes 30-45 minutes...once the door panel is off, that's it for disassembly, you access the pigtail and perform the wire shunt right there on the back of the door panel and you're done. The beauty of it is that it's easily reversible...how can you beat that?
I could also argue all day as to how it makes driving seem ever so slightly safer in terms of it allowing you to get your hands back on the wheel instantly...regardless of losing a child safety-like feature. Besides, when is a child going to be poking their head out of a 2-seater driver's side window anyway?
I just went to the bank to do a night drop off...auto down...drop the evelope...auto up...and right away hands on the steering wheel to navigate the squirrely path through the bank teller lane!
THANKS HUGO!
p.s. ready for those teflon rail guides
It does allow both windows to go auto up/dn, it does not need to be used with the alarm - in fact I have added a switch to a few customers' cars so that it can auto up/dn BOTH windows with only one switch if desired (the third switch triggers both windows at once through the DEI box)
Forgot to mention that not only does it have a resistance sensing circuit, it is adjustable for how much resistance - a great help for the NSX windows.
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While it is certainly your choice to avoid aftermarket electronics, I have run into this same comment so many times over the years and have to say these events are 99.9% due to installer error and should not be used as an example of anything else but to find a good installer -
That same logic can be applied to anything under the sun -
- "I'm never buying aftermarket rims/low profile tires since I blew a tire hitting pothole / I had my tire damaged hitting curb"
- "I bought an exhaust system and it developed a rattle after a month - my OEM one was 10 yrs. old and did not rattle"
- "I bought these new _ _ _ _ _ _ (you fill in the blank) and they suck..."
Nothing ventured, nothing gained?
I have an idea for adding auto mode to the passenger window AND keeping the momentary mode in both windows AND having resistance sensing for safety in both windows in auto mode, without changing the motor or using a Honda window controller with the auto function.
I believe that the DEI unit only goes full auto up or full auto down unless the window travel is stopped by hitting the switch in the opposite direction. The DEI unit does not have the manual/momentary function that the modified OEM switch has in the first position. (These are negative features to me compared to the intuitive Honda function.)
The DEI unit uses resistance sensing for safety. (This is a positive to me, especially for the passenger's side window.)
The modified Acura switch has both manual and auto modes but no resistance for safety. (a positive and a negative.)
The best of both worlds:
Perhaps a modified driver's switch could be used in all three switch locations for the driver's window and the passenger's window. The OEM switch in the manual (1st position) could be used for OEM manual mode and the auto (2nd position) on the switch could activate the DEI unit's auto function. This might get us the auto function on the driver's and the passenger's windows from the driver's door switch and from the passenger's door switch, but only when the switch is pushed to the full auto position. The first position would be retained as the momentary/manual switch function.
Can a modified driver's switch with manual/auto positions fit into the 2 locations for the passenger's window switches in the driver's door and the passenger's doors?
Angus apparently came up with a way to speed up the windows with larger wiring and bypassing the OEM window control units.
This configuration I'm proposing would bypass the OEM window control module in the Auto/DEI mode to speed up the windows in auto mode.
Any thoughts???
I believe that the DEI unit only goes full auto up or full auto down unless the window travel is stopped by hitting the switch in the opposite direction. The DEI unit does not have the manual/momentary function that the modified OEM switch has in the first position. (These are negative features to me compared to the intuitive Honda function.)
The DEI unit uses resistance sensing for safety. (This is a positive to me, especially for the passenger's side window.)
The modified Acura switch has both manual and auto modes but no resistance for safety. (a positive and a negative.)
The best of both worlds:
Perhaps a modified driver's switch could be used in all three switch locations for the driver's window and the passenger's window. The OEM switch in the manual (1st position) could be used for OEM manual mode and the auto (2nd position) on the switch could activate the DEI unit's auto function. This might get us the auto function on the driver's and the passenger's windows from the driver's door switch and from the passenger's door switch, but only when the switch is pushed to the full auto position. The first position would be retained as the momentary/manual switch function.
Can a modified driver's switch with manual/auto positions fit into the 2 locations for the passenger's window switches in the driver's door and the passenger's doors?
Angus apparently came up with a way to speed up the windows with larger wiring and bypassing the OEM window control units.
This configuration I'm proposing would bypass the OEM window control module in the Auto/DEI mode to speed up the windows in auto mode.
Any thoughts???
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I now see what you are saying - problem is it would take a lot of wiring to do it the way that you are talking about , it would have a huge amount of redundant wiring since you would only engage the DEI module when pressing the switch to the auto position, not only that but you'd have to seperate the wiring so that when only pressing to the first position, it would not engage the DEI module at all.
I have had quite a few cars with the DEI module wired just as it comes and it's just fine, the passenger does not need auto windows, it's actually annoying to me in the Lexus since every single pasenger will go up/dn/up/dn/up/dn a bunch of times since they have no idea how the switch works (it has two clicks, but htey ignore it) they just hit the thing up and down all the way and the window goes crazy...
I have had quite a few cars with the DEI module wired just as it comes and it's just fine, the passenger does not need auto windows, it's actually annoying to me in the Lexus since every single pasenger will go up/dn/up/dn/up/dn a bunch of times since they have no idea how the switch works (it has two clicks, but htey ignore it) they just hit the thing up and down all the way and the window goes crazy...
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Just a few things worth considering...
1. The beauty of this mod is that it's so simple. It will likely give you less problems and outlast anything more complicated like installing the DEI modules.
2. The DEI modules are resistance sensing, yes... but they also require calibration. The already hard to roll up NSX windows will already cause the DEI circuitry to be easier to confuse than say with a newer car with window arches or just newer guides for example. I suspect the DEIs will cause problems with windows only closing partially over time and will require to be recalibrated over the years unless the installer is a hack and just sets them at full resistance. I installed 530Ts in my 91 Integra way back when and I would always constantly be looking back to see if my windows closed all the way (hooked up with the alarm). There are other things the installer needs to make sure to do with these modules like make sure there's enough current going to them which will often require a relay (read: more wires). You will also need to bypass/cut into factory wiring since the 530Ts run in-line between your switch and the motor (i'm not a fan of cutting up OEM wiring). So in my older years... give me an easy simple solution and i'm happy even if it doesn't have all the bells and whistles. I wouldn't install these in my NSX even though they work great in my daily driver.
3. The child safety issue is not usually a concern on the driver's side
1. The beauty of this mod is that it's so simple. It will likely give you less problems and outlast anything more complicated like installing the DEI modules.
2. The DEI modules are resistance sensing, yes... but they also require calibration. The already hard to roll up NSX windows will already cause the DEI circuitry to be easier to confuse than say with a newer car with window arches or just newer guides for example. I suspect the DEIs will cause problems with windows only closing partially over time and will require to be recalibrated over the years unless the installer is a hack and just sets them at full resistance. I installed 530Ts in my 91 Integra way back when and I would always constantly be looking back to see if my windows closed all the way (hooked up with the alarm). There are other things the installer needs to make sure to do with these modules like make sure there's enough current going to them which will often require a relay (read: more wires). You will also need to bypass/cut into factory wiring since the 530Ts run in-line between your switch and the motor (i'm not a fan of cutting up OEM wiring). So in my older years... give me an easy simple solution and i'm happy even if it doesn't have all the bells and whistles. I wouldn't install these in my NSX even though they work great in my daily driver.
3. The child safety issue is not usually a concern on the driver's side
You're right about it taking redundant wiring.
Since the auto output of the modified switches would activate the DEI module, would that be adequate to separate the wiring form the OEM manual mode? Or is it more complicated than that?
Good point about the passenger door not needing the auto switch. Mainly I want to be able to add auto activation for the passenger's window from the driver's door and keep the momentary first position function.
How would I wire the DEI unit for the driver's door to use two modified switches with OEM function for manual and the DEI activation from the auto outputs from the switches?
How much more wiring would be needed to give the passenger's switch the same manual/auto functions with the DEI unit.?
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Hugo....thank you again for making such signifcant contributions to our NSX community
2 questions on the auto up driver door switch modification
1. the "delicate" removal for the button....are you prying straight up with the flat blade screwdriver tip, or one side a time???
2. adding the wire to the male switch....where did you get the spade to slide down into that male switch when you added that missing wire???
thanks a lot
2 questions on the auto up driver door switch modification
1. the "delicate" removal for the button....are you prying straight up with the flat blade screwdriver tip, or one side a time???
2. adding the wire to the male switch....where did you get the spade to slide down into that male switch when you added that missing wire???
thanks a lot
I just did this DIY and wanted to point out something that wasn't mentioned earlier.
When you file the opening larger, you also end up filing the wall that Hugo points out is closer to the center of the switch. I found that to get the proper travel for the switch you actually need to trim the wall a little more on the inside. However, when you do this you lose the platform where the spring rests, so when you open the windows, there isn't the proper amount of tension on the switch. (It still returns to the "off" position, but the switch feels loose.)
To remedy this, I cut a small piece of hard rubber to insert into the switch housing so that the spring would have something to push on. At first I tried this with a square block of rubber, and while this worked, the end of the spring would snag ever so slightly on the rubber surface when returning from the "auto down" position. This bothered me so I trimmed the rubber piece to the shape below:
I inserted this into the switch housing with the higher part of it toward the middle, and now I had a perfect platform for the spring:
Everything else is as Hugo described it.
Thanks Hugo for yet another fantastic DIY mod!
When you file the opening larger, you also end up filing the wall that Hugo points out is closer to the center of the switch. I found that to get the proper travel for the switch you actually need to trim the wall a little more on the inside. However, when you do this you lose the platform where the spring rests, so when you open the windows, there isn't the proper amount of tension on the switch. (It still returns to the "off" position, but the switch feels loose.)
To remedy this, I cut a small piece of hard rubber to insert into the switch housing so that the spring would have something to push on. At first I tried this with a square block of rubber, and while this worked, the end of the spring would snag ever so slightly on the rubber surface when returning from the "auto down" position. This bothered me so I trimmed the rubber piece to the shape below:
I inserted this into the switch housing with the higher part of it toward the middle, and now I had a perfect platform for the spring:
Everything else is as Hugo described it.
Thanks Hugo for yet another fantastic DIY mod!
Attachments
1. Not sure how Hugo did it but I did it one side at a time, very carefully with two very small flathead screwdrivers.
2. Radio shack, Fry's, or other electronics store will have something - I used a miniature bullet terminal and flattened it. Worked perfectly.
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- 7 February 2010
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I just realized something on my drive back from costco....... My 93 driver window is auto down AND auto up. However, it's never been messed with.... I didn't even know it was auto up until I tried just now. Very cool.
Nice to see some of you are modifying your switch! :biggrin:
Several members asked me for the OEM HONDA switch part number so they can order it directly from Japan ...so I gave a call to Honda here in Portugal, here is the answer:
Honda Driver Switch Assembly
35750-SLO-G01ZA
It costs here an incredible 274,00euros + 23% VAT = 465 US$
So be very careful not to break it
If anyone knows the price in Japan, please post it here so we can compare european and japanese prices
Thank you
Several members asked me for the OEM HONDA switch part number so they can order it directly from Japan ...so I gave a call to Honda here in Portugal, here is the answer:
Honda Driver Switch Assembly
35750-SLO-G01ZA
It costs here an incredible 274,00euros + 23% VAT = 465 US$
So be very careful not to break it
If anyone knows the price in Japan, please post it here so we can compare european and japanese prices
Thank you
I believe the motor has an internal circuit breaker where if someone was to hold the window it would shut off and turn back on after a couple minutes.
nsxxtreme: yes, you are right, there is a thermal switch to protect the motor, but if your hand would get stuck you would keep screaming even if the motor was shut-off by its switch:biggrin:
Modern cars OPEN the window if it stops before complete closure, the NSX won't...
Modern cars OPEN the window if it stops before complete closure, the NSX won't...
A quick Google search brought up this price: US $178.58 +shipping from JPN
http://www.nengun.com/honda/oem-parts-nsx
Have no idea if nengun is legit or have this part in stock, as it is oddly the ONLY OEM part that they have listed for sale. Caveat emptor
There are lots of other parts/brands on their site including a Toda ITB setup that is over $11,000 bucks
To Hugo or anyone else that may know:
Does anyone know another Honda vehicle that uses this same assembly? A few of us have broken switch assemblies but the wear and tear seems to be contained in this subassembly. It would be great to find out say another older Honda shares this switch. A new complete master switch assembly is almost $300 :frown:
Does anyone know another Honda vehicle that uses this same assembly? A few of us have broken switch assemblies but the wear and tear seems to be contained in this subassembly. It would be great to find out say another older Honda shares this switch. A new complete master switch assembly is almost $300 :frown:
shawn110975
Suspended
ever seen a 1990-1995 Legend coupe switch? the EX version has 4 windows well 2 mini V-shaped windows in the rear
but the base Legend coupe looks almost exactly as the NSX window switches check into it.
I have found all kinds of Legend parts fit the NSX over the years
but the base Legend coupe looks almost exactly as the NSX window switches check into it.
I have found all kinds of Legend parts fit the NSX over the years
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